Lanthanum chloride

Which SeaKlear product?
Their site has:
SeaKlear Aquaria Phosphate Remover
SeaKlear Phosphate Remever CR
SeaKlear Phosphate Remover Commercial Strength

Thanks
 
The one for pools (has a pic of a girl swimming in a pool) is 99.9% LaCl3 according to the MSDS. The one made for aquaria will likely be an untold dilution of the pool version. I believe the MSDS for that says 'proprietary' mix which means probably 10% LaCl or something like that I'm guessing. I don't remember exactly off the top, but the pool version is undiluted. That's the one most of us have been using after very heavily diluting ourselves... I dilute mine down to a < 1% mixture and then use very sparingly.

Regards,

Sheldon
 
Hi all!
I found a product and the MSDS states
that is Lanthanum salts components and WT% 60-100 what does it mean ?

here is a pic
 

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I never had heard of this process and have read through the thread twice in the past 24 hours. I'm planning for a large system and already have 300 gallons of it online and have been going through GFO from Premium Aquatics pretty quickly since bringing it online due to some leaching from some dry Pukani rock. Now that things have stabalized I'm looking at GFO regeneration and using the Lanthanum Chloride as an export method every week or two, all depending on the needs.

I can't seem to find the SeaKlear brand locally from calling quite a few stores today so was curious if the PHOSfree brand is the same at Leslies? (They don't sell SeaKlear brand)

PHOSfree

If this is not safe I'll just place an order online but I have a Leslies 5 minutes away from my house and would not mind giving this a shot on Sunday when I'm around the house.
 
Yes, the SeaKlear distributors told me of their Aquatic Eco line when I was originally inquiring (trying to confirm I have the right stuff).

Aquatic Eco is the product for which I pulled the MSDS that cited 'proprietary' mixture... which most probably means that it's pre-diluted to some level deemed safer for aquaria usage.. I prefer the full 99.9% concentration of the pool product so that I can dilute it myself and get much longer service out of a single bottle. ;)

Regards,

Sheldon
 
I'd say that I'd agree that going the pool route is just as effective and I'm sure much more potent. I don't see the dosage requirements but I can dilute product myself like Sheldon said:)

Has anyone tried the phosphree referenced above? If not, I'm just going to order online and looks like I'm going to have to order filter socks anyways as I though Premium Aquatics carried them....I'll find out when I head to PA later:)
 
I ordered my 5 micron socks from dudadiesel

As for SeaKlear phosphate remover CR, has anyone used it? MSDS says trade secret. I contacted SeaKlear but have not heard back yet. Most of the current MSDS sheets use trade secret , but I just want to make sure I am getting the most pure and concentrated mix to dilute...
 
@Dustin - Never used he Phosfree product... so no comment here.

@DBSAM - I thought I'd saved a pdf last year but cannot find it... in any event I'm 100% positive that the SeaKlear Pool Product is stated on the MSDS to contain 99.9% Lanthanum Chloride. - I've since bought a case of 12 1-litre bottles only because my local pool supply store didn't carry that line and said that if I wanted it I would have to commit to the whole case (of 12)... and that I did - I have 10 bottles left...:)

Regards,

Sheldon
 
I am going to go with Kem-Tek Phosphate Remover.

MSDS shows lanthanum chloride. I would think SeaKlear is the same, but do appreciate the "trade secret" listings...

Also, Kem-Tek much cheaper ($12.58/ 32 oz on amazon), albeit possibly not as contentrated, but dosage charts are the same, so it should not be much off...

Also, I have dosage amounts for our tanks, but over what rate do you dose?
 
....so let's turn back the clock....

....so let's turn back the clock....

I found this:
http://www.mpbio.com/product_info.php?open=&cPath=&selecttab=&family_key=02152534

65-70% LaCl3 as white powder.

Any thoughts on it?

I talked with SeaKlear today and they would not confirm if the current products are 99.9 LaCl3. They just steered me to Aquatic Eco to their aquaria product, which is 37% LaCl3...All of the MSDS sheets at SeaKlear are "trade secret"...The dates of the MSDS sheets are within 12 months old.


These scanned images are from the hardcopies I printed probably at least 16 months ago...

SeaKlear [Pool] Phosphate Remover - 99.99% Lanthanum Chloride Hydrate:
SeaKlearPoolPO4Remover.jpg


SeaKlear Aquaria Phosphate Remover - 64% Lanthanum salt derivative:
SeaKlearAquariaPO4Remover.jpg


SeaKlear [Pool] Natural Clarifier:
SeaKlearPoolNaturalClarifier.jpg


SeaKlear Aquaria Natural Clarifier - Trade Secret:
SeaKlearAquariaNaturalClarifier.jpg


These are just the front pages of each product.... I knew I had it somewhere just had to dig it up.

Regards,

Sheldon
 
I got the SeaKlear product and Filter socks in this week and wanted to start my first dosage today to see how things went. I have a ~300 gallon system currently but working on moving a 600 gallon DT down to basement in next month to start working on getting it plumbed in so ways of controlling phosphates was a concern.

That being said, I dosed 5mL of lanthanum chloride to 1L of RO/DI. Kicked it off at 1 pm, let it run for about hour and 15 minutes and filter sock was starting to overflow. I took filter sock out of play, let the water clear up and just tested to see where I was at. Here are results:

1 PM: 13ppb (.039ppm), PH of 8.20, and ORP of 445.
4 PM: 6ppb (.021ppm), and looking at apex at 2:15 PH of 8.21 and ORP of 451.

Coral, fish (Tangs), all looked healthy and happy and only observation I had was cloudiness of the water. I partially blame this on skimmer as I had kicked off the return to change out sock and pump had not automatically kicked back on so a good reminder that I need to give the skimmer pump a vinegar bath:) Thanks for the contributions to the thread and a great method to control phosphates.

I can't seem to keep my nitrate above 0 so I'm limited with some methods as the redfield ratio comes into play and I don't have nitrates to feed the cycle to consume the phosphates!
 
Nice - but just air on the side of caution; as it is very easy to get over-zealous with this method... as you can see it doesn't take much. However, if you see your water getting cloudy, that is more than likely the LC reacting with the phos; and carbonate in your DT and everywhere else. Though it doesn't always lead to an immediate detrimental effect (or at least an obvious one) on your animals; I personally would try to avoid that as much as possible. I too had a couple of those cloudy dosage sessions on a 500g system; but I suspect when done this way, some of the PO4 returns (reading rises) between these aggressive doses. My assumption is that it precipitates out (with the cloudiness); settles on the substrates; then re-dissolves back into the water column until your next run.

Once PO4 is heading in the right direction; it will eventually come right down to trace levels without getting too aggressive, or putting your livestock at risk. If you see your tangs gasping, wait a longer while before your next dose to allow them to get the LaPO4 and LaCO3 precipitates out of their gills..

Regards,

Sheldon
 
Understood and thanks. Anyone with a 300 gallon water volume and relatively acceptable measurement of phosphates? Since I was at 13 ppb (.039 ppm) to start with I think in the future I'll bring down the dilution even more and will likely try 2 mL out and tap into my manifold so I have better control of the flow and can give more reaction time by slowing down the flow and allowing it to filter for a few hours. Once the sock really starts gumming up I'll just dial back the flow more and more.
 
I am so fustrated trying this for 2 weeks now I can not get any results. I really want this to work. Started at 0.18 and 5 treatments later I am still at 0.14. on a chlorometer. I have 350 gallons of water I have dripped up to 10mls diluted in one ltr of RO water into my return then into socks over a 6 hr period. The only real difference is I have been using a 100 micron sock instead of a 10 micron. I csan not bring myself to increase the volume any more. Any suggestions would be greatly appreicated..
 
100 micron is way too big IMO and you're likely just releasing the precipitate right back into your DT. It will then end up just leaching right back to the water column while potentially having a negative impact on your livestock. Until you pick up some 5/10 micron socks I'd stop dosing as your likely doing more harm than good!
 
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