Learning/rebuilding from my epic fail

I sent you a PM, I don't want to clog up Matt's thread.

Ed please post that link.
I was not aware that nutrient reducing bacteria would be dramatically affected by the ratio of n and p. As long as both were present, I assumed they would act to reduce nutrients, as long as a carbon source was available. (Excluding a discussion about iron)
Cheato I really know nothing about in terms of nutrient needs..
I'm very interested to read this article..
100 to 1 certainly falls far outside the redfield ratio.. which I know is not a gold standard but is fairly common in the oceans.
 
I posted the consumption rate not ratio the algae performs best. I read it in one of the articles/papers,not sure I book marked the link. In other words it consumes 100-1 nitrates to phosphates. That's why a lot of people with high chaeto growth have to dose nitrates.

I was merely looking at that as an area to at least target for Pfe. I have that article linked and just sent it to him earlier today.

I'm not sure 11-21 is a good ratio for acros............a lot of Sps systems I follow have a larger gap.....in or around that 100 ratio or more and also why I suggested it.

I'd have to do more research of my own, but I don't think systems with thriving acros and chaeto run that tight or maintain that in line. We also have to factor that actual ratio we don't know, we are just measuring what's left over.

A lab test is sterile and only measuring what it inputs. A reef tank is much more dynamic with hundreds more variables and inputs, consumption rates of the corals, livestock nutrient releases, ect.

The situation can become even more convoluted when people are running multiple tools like carbon dosing and chaeto at the same time or shot gunning all over the place with export tools.

I don't think it's important to debate the ratio as much a just get in a range the chaeto and acros are happy at the same time.

I try to focus more on the ratio that makes acros happy. It's likely a large enough ratio most people can hit.

The skewed systems that have bothPO4 and N03 too high or one very high over the other aren't good combinations in my experiences long term.

Ah, algea consumption rates, I have also read something to that effect..
I think my ideal/target nutrient numbers would be around 5-10 ppm n and .05-.08 ppm p. I guess that's around a 100/1 ratio.. for acro happiness.. as for algea happiness, I really don't know..

Last year, when my n was around 3-5 ppm and p was .08-.14. I had the best colours (for me) and cheato was growing. But I had plenty of other nuisance algae growing as well.. that's closer to a 40/1 ratio. And I was using tons of gfo..
Right now I'm at 40 ppm n and .2 p - that's 200/1 ouch..
Not really sure what I'm saying here..
anyways here's a shot of my current light set up over my cheato..
If certainly seems to be growing. It is expanding for sure.
I'll test nutrients this weekend.

This is 2 24w aquablue giesemman bulbs, 2x 24 w aquapink a 6 watt warm white led in the middle and a 47w cfl hanging on the side there. I feel this is a significant amount of light and hits all the spectral points..
we shall see if it has any effect on nutrients
 
Oh yes! This for sure!

My NO3 got up too 30 recently after doing the bryopsis treatment and couldn't get it to come down. When I realized PO4 was low I added Flourish Phosphorus and it came down in 5 days to 5-8ppm.
35970f6d304f2142b9f7c33556b72c54.jpg


Just recently added some to reduced a bloom of dino and it worked too.


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Bif, what test kit do you use for po4 and how low was your reading?
I do hear about people saying that even without 0 readings in n or p, adding some of one has helped reduce the other..
I guess this speaks to the ratio issue but really I was not aware that the ratio was so important.
 
Bif, what test kit do you use for po4 and how low was your reading?
I do hear about people saying that even without 0 readings in n or p, adding some of one has helped reduce the other..
I guess this speaks to the ratio issue but really I was not aware that the ratio was so important.



I use Hanna ULR Phosphorus checker and Red Sea Pro Nitrate.
I normally need to add NO3 every few weeks to maintain >5ppm. I added some dry rock and 4-6 weeks later had the bloom. Was running GFO and did have a 0.00 reading after running it for several weeks due to the PO4 leached from the rock. I added it a few times and boosted it to ~.1ppm and would drop <.05 so I would add more. Last night about 4 days after adding the Phosphorus it was .04ppm.




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Little late night actinic photo dump..
A growth nub from some encrustation of a long gone coral. No idea what this is but is happy

Lovely acrodesiac. Growing well.

Red Diablo

A mystery Raja 'masterpiece'

A Fiji from reefsolution.
Man....you can make my eyes go like this:eek1::eek1: in just five pics:)
Amazing and inspirational at the same time!Thanks for sharing buddy:beer:
Will be silently reading the rest of the ratio info too:)
 
I've been doing a bunch of research on Cheato (posted a thread in Lighting/Filtration forum) and I don't think 0.2ppm is too high for it. I don't know where the guy with that in his sig got it from, it raised an eyebrow for sure when I saw it. Here's a really good study on Cheato growth: http://scimar.icm.csic.es/scimar/pdf/66/sm66n4355.pdf. They did PO43- enrichment at 18umol/l, which I believe is something like 1.8ppm phosphate.

The key is growing enough Chaeto to export what you need. That article talks about N/P limitation, but ideal ratios for N:P are like 15-20, so it sounds like you're fine.

Big E do you have a reference for that ratio? In a paper posted here earlier post 2338, stating that N/P ratio at macro algae , greater than 11-21 indicate P limitation, whereas ratio lower than 11-16 N limitation . the ratio at macoraalgae studied, varied , depending at the availability of nutrients.

Man....you can make my eyes go like this:eek1::eek1: in just five pics:)
Amazing and inspirational at the same time!Thanks for sharing buddy:beer:
Will be silently reading the rest of the ratio info too:)

Hey Mike! Thanks for checking in! Nice to hear from you.
Above is the link to the paper Greg mentioned. It is a difficult read for me. I am not sure what the conclusions are in terms of proper ratios and quite honestly, I don't know how to convert numbers like 11-21 and 11-16 to ones that make sense to me.
It did seem clear in the paper that, as Ed mentioned earlier, cheato does definitely like n more than p and consumes more of it.
In terms of p and/or n limitation in cheato, I'm quite sure I don't understand!
Anybody with the time and patience who feels like explaining that article in layman's terms, I am all eyes! :)
 
Hi Matt,

The basic takeaway for me is that if the ratio isn't in a certain range the chaeto won't thrive.

I'm using simple math to figure the ratio and I shouldn't assume that's how the publishers of the article are measuring it in that same manner..............for my purposes the simple method is all I need.

Basically what I'm suggesting is that in Pife's case he can't get the nitrates down due to the ratio being too large(400).......... chaeto won't grow, so it's not sucking up N03 at it's 100-1 consumption rate like it should.

I'm just assuming every algae, coral, ect. has a ratio they thrive at.

--------------------------------
For Sps, most successful tanks I've tracked the average is 100........some are 50 and some as high as 200 but most fall in or around 100.

With your setup your ratio of 200 may be ok, but your high and outside the bell curves of Po4 and N03. I'm not saying it's bad, but it's the exception rather than the rule of most happy Sps tanks.

A setup that has lower numbers and the same 200 range will probably produce less pest algae.......keep it dormant, and also provide better growth and vitality for the corals long term and able to handle stressers better.

This ratio is more about overall health & growth versus just looking at color.

There's always going to be exceptions of course, but if most people keep in range on all three the Sps should be happier.
 
For Sps, most successful tanks I've tracked the average is 100........some are 50 and some as high as 200 but most fall in or around 100.

With your setup your ratio of 200 may be ok, but your high and outside the bell curves of Po4 and N03. I'm not saying it's bad, but it's the exception rather than the rule of most happy Sps tanks.

A setup that has lower numbers and the same 200 range will probably produce less pest algae.......keep it dormant, and also provide better growth and vitality for the corals long term and able to handle stressers better.

This ratio is more about overall health & growth versus just looking at color.

There's always going to be exceptions of course, but if most people keep in range on all three the Sps should be happier.

Interesting stuff Ed.

The ratio in my tank varied between 1:50 and 1:200. I was happy with colouration and growth. It has been 1:10 for at least six months. I am happier with growth, but slightly less so with colouration. Some of my Acroporids seem to be on a steroids.
 
Hi Matt,

The basic takeaway for me is that if the ratio isn't in a certain range the chaeto won't thrive.

I'm using simple math to figure the ratio and I shouldn't assume that's how the publishers of the article are measuring it in that same manner..............for my purposes the simple method is all I need.

Basically what I'm suggesting is that in Pife's case he can't get the nitrates down due to the ratio being too large(400).......... chaeto won't grow, so it's not sucking up N03 at it's 100-1 consumption rate like it should.

I'm just assuming every algae, coral, ect. has a ratio they thrive at.

--------------------------------
For Sps, most successful tanks I've tracked the average is 100........some are 50 and some as high as 200 but most fall in or around 100.

With your setup your ratio of 200 may be ok, but your high and outside the bell curves of Po4 and N03. I'm not saying it's bad, but it's the exception rather than the rule of most happy Sps tanks.

A setup that has lower numbers and the same 200 range will probably produce less pest algae.......keep it dormant, and also provide better growth and vitality for the corals long term and able to handle stressers better.

This ratio is more about overall health & growth versus just looking at color.

There's always going to be exceptions of course, but if most people keep in range on all three the Sps should be happier.

Thanks, Ed. Very articulately put. And I totally agree.
It is clear that a certain ratio is important. Even within that article, I think they noticed changes in uptake of one nutrient when the other was over dosed. As if once one gets too high the cheato reacts negatively..

As for Pife, I just want to distinguish between bacterial nutrient reduction and algal nutrient reduction..
I'm wondering if bacteria require the same ratios to be happy as algae do..
Personally, I've never seen a reduction in one nutrient by adding the other unless the nutrient being added was at total zero to begin with.
However, you do hear stories of reefers adding a nutrient that wasn't completely zeroed out and it still manages to reduce the other.
I was saying that he probably wasn't bacterially p limited with readings of .03-.06 p and that adding p probably wouldn't help in his case.
And you suggested that maybe he was in fact p limited and I wasn't sure if you were referring to being limited from a bacterial standpoint or algal... or if the ratios can be applied to both bacteria and algea.
And to further the thought with Pife.. I'm wondering if in the case of nutrients being in the lower end maybe it would be a good idea to add a nutrient to get into a good ratio instead of the usual knee jerk attempt to reduce a nutrient to get into a good ratio..
Certainly, in my case, with nutrients so high, it wouldn't make sense to be adding more nutrients but maybe in Pife's case it would.. just thinking out loud..

With my current nutrient levels, they certainly are outside the bell curve and I don't want to keep them there.. I haven't tested nutrients since last week but the cheato is without doubt expanding at the moment. Whether or not it is haveing a reducing effect, it is growing. Which is a start..
Although many of my corals are growing and seem pretty healthy and colourful. We all know we shoot our tanks with he intention of showing off the good stuff. I am not happy with health, colour, or growth in general in my tank. I have corals with brown patches, corals with no growth and corals with general off colouration. I am certain that the high n and p are to blame. Even if my ratio isn't too bad, I'd like to reduce over all nutrients and then continue to work on p.. either with gfo or lanthanum chloride.
 
I have just extracted this from a thread on R 2 R, which shows different ratios between Carbon:Nitrogen:Phosphorus (source @biom clay-boa)

" Redfield ratio 106:16:1 (phytoplankton)

bacterioplankton 32:6:1
coral tissue 155:24:1
zooxantellae in coral 365:21:1
copepoda (zooplankton) 30:3:1
Anchovy (fish) 20:5:1
You and me 18:3:1" (@biom- R 2 R)
 
I have just extracted this from a thread on R 2 R, which shows different ratios between Carbon:Nitrogen:Phosphorus (source @biom clay-boa)

" Redfield ratio 106:16:1 (phytoplankton)

bacterioplankton 32:6:1
coral tissue 155:24:1
zooxantellae in coral 365:21:1
copepoda (zooplankton) 30:3:1
Anchovy (fish) 20:5:1
You and me 18:3:1" (@biom- R 2 R)

Thanks, Bulent. If nothing else, it demonstrates how varied these ratios are and sort of indicates to me how irrelevant the redfield ratio is to reefkeepers..
Interesting how much trapped carbon and nitrate both coral tissue and the animals that live inside this tissue have... and very similar n to p ratios..
Now, I wonder how this corresponds to the surrounding water's levels..
Would the levels found inside the animals really be ideal levels to keep ones water at?? I don't really see why.. as long as they are available, the coral and the zoox can extract what they want/need.
Not really knowing anything about biology, I would only assume that as long as there is more dissolved n and p in the water than what is found in the coral and zoox, they would have an easier time extracting it.
Once levels become lower maybe it's harder to absorb..... on the other hand, there is the whole unknown issue of what the corals can trap in terms of food particles from the water column.
 
Hi Matt--

As for Pife, I just want to distinguish between bacterial nutrient reduction and algal nutrient reduction..
I'm wondering if bacteria require the same ratios to be happy as algae do..
Personally, I've never seen a reduction in one nutrient by adding the other unless the nutrient being added was at total zero to begin with.
However, you do hear stories of reefers adding a nutrient that wasn't completely zeroed out and it still manages to reduce the other.
I was saying that he probably wasn't bacterially p limited with readings of .03-.06 p and that adding p probably wouldn't help in his case.
And you suggested that maybe he was in fact p limited and I wasn't sure if you were referring to being limited from a bacterial standpoint or algal... or if the ratios can be applied to both bacteria and algea.
And to further the thought with Pife.. I'm wondering if in the case of nutrients
being in the lower end maybe it would be a good idea to add a nutrient to get into a good ratio instead of the usual knee jerk attempt to reduce a nutrient to get into a good ratio..
Certainly, in my case, with nutrients so high, it wouldn't make sense to be adding more nutrients but maybe in Pife's case it would.. just thinking out loud..


My suggestion on his sytem still being PO4 limited "¦"¦"¦.. I was basically thinking that the ratio being so wide was limiting, regardless of the actual levels. I was more specifically looking at the chaeto but it could be both in that the nitrate eating bacteria wasn't thriving either.
Since his PO4 levels are in a good spot for steady state I suggested to focus on the N03. He had already been adding PO4 to get his current levels and my opinion was if he was to add more he may awaken a bunch of nasty dormant algae(bubble, wirey macro, ect) The vinegar wasn't working in the past and I mentioned this to him"”---

"œThere may be other reasons why you haven't been able to knock them down. Sometimes it's something simple like how the skimmer is functioning or how you are getting the water to the skimmer.

The bacteria may be consuming the nitrates but if they aren't being taken out your levels won't change. For example, a filter sock that catches bacteria and isn't changed is just a nutrient factory as the bacteria just dies and releases the nutrients back into the system."

If these checked out I also mentioned that although most systems have plenty of the right bacteria maybe his population was low and couldn't thrive due to other bacteria taking advantage. The next step would be to add MB7(or another commercial bacteria only supplement) to put more of the "œgood" bacteria in his system.

Since our talk he found out one of the skimmer pumps was bad and I believe he took out his socks as well. So far it looks like his short term results are encouraging.

--------------------------------------------

On your system-- I think your plan/goal makes sense for long term success.
 
Interesting stuff Ed.

The ratio in my tank varied between 1:50 and 1:200. I was happy with colouration and growth. It has been 1:10 for at least six months. I am happier with growth, but slightly less so with colouration. Some of my Acroporids seem to be on a steroids.

Yes, your system is one I've been tracking and I did notice your current change in the gap.

I believe certain species of corals like levels different than others due to the fact that each coral has it's own specific set of bacteria that they rely on.

Our challenge is to find that range where most are happy.
 
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Hi Matt--




My suggestion on his sytem still being PO4 limited ……….. I was basically thinking that the ratio being so wide was limiting, regardless of the actual levels. I was more specifically looking at the chaeto but it could be both in that the nitrate eating bacteria wasn’t thriving either.
Since his PO4 levels are in a good spot for steady state I suggested to focus on the N03. He had already been adding PO4 to get his current levels and my opinion was if he was to add more he may awaken a bunch of nasty dormant algae(bubble, wirey macro, ect) The vinegar wasn’t working in the past and I mentioned this to him—---

“There may be other reasons why you haven't been able to knock them down. Sometimes it's something simple like how the skimmer is functioning or how you are getting the water to the skimmer.

The bacteria may be consuming the nitrates but if they aren't being taken out your levels won't change. For example, a filter sock that catches bacteria and isn't changed is just a nutrient factory as the bacteria just dies and releases the nutrients back into the system.”

If these checked out I also mentioned that although most systems have plenty of the right bacteria maybe his population was low and couldn’t thrive due to other bacteria taking advantage. The next step would be to add MB7(or another commercial bacteria only supplement) to put more of the “good” bacteria in his system.

Since our talk he found out one of the skimmer pumps was bad and I believe he took out his socks as well. So far it looks like his short term results are encouraging.

--------------------------------------------

On your system-- I think your plan/goal makes sense for long term success.

Ed, thanks very much for the insight and discussion. It's a very intriguing concept this balanced ratio. It's something that never really occurred to me outside of redfield which may not mean much to us reefers..
I will certainly stay aware of it going forward. Another thing to add the the checklist of observation and diagnosis...
What about cyano and ratios? Any thought there?
I wonder if sometimes when reefers add a carbon source to drop nutrients, the occasional resulting cyano bloom may have to do more with a change in the nutrient ratio rather than the carbon source itself causing the cyano..

As for my tank, my cheato continues to grow, hopefully this weekend, I'll test n and p and my tank will be a nutrient desert! :) ... I'll settle for a slight drop.. we shall see..
Thanks again, Ed.


Come to think of it, you often hear about people adding po4 to help get rid of dinos as well...
 
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Well, with all of these articles, it's time for a little porn..
Here's a primer..
JF flame.

And a little closer..

blueberry wine..

The bruise and orange passion

Couple artsy fartsy close ups..


Blue Aussie piece with suharsonoi down below.

Neet shot with a springeri reflecting a lot of purple light.. not actual colour..

Ssc growing fast.

Wild Aussie frag.
 
I'll just keep going..
Furiosa!

A very interesting new (ish) addition from Uncle Raja.. this could be very cool..

Closer..

Underwhelming pink Cadillac.

Another red Diablo I have.

I've been trimming back the ssc so as not to allow it growing over the red Diablo.

This guy is growing well..

Post a few more tomorrow..
 
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