Let's See Some T5 Only Lite Tanks (remember Just T5 Lite Tanks) :-)

Its 31.3 X the size of the tank. But it still could be that. Im just trying to narrow down the culprit. It could be my calcium reactor that I installed 3 weeks ago or Oceanic salt. I doubt if it is the lights to tell you the truth. Never really had the problem till 2 weeks ago. Had the T5 for 7 months now.
 
@AJtheReefer
Yes, the copperband is really beautiful :)
Normally a delicate fish because of the food, mine is eating a lot of different frozen stuff.

@FastUno
Colors comes from the nutrient "poor" surrounding? Do you mean "rich", since you do not use a skimmer? How can color come from nutrient poor environment?
Here is a very good article about colours but big (3.5MB) and only in german :(
http://www.korallenriff.de/VortragBeckum2004.pdf
I translate some:
The colour of corals depend of:
-the genetic competence (they must be able to built colour)
-the light spectrum and intensitiy (T5 is best when it comes to the spectrum)
-the nutrient level and the Availability of nutrients for the zooxanthells (low PO4 and NO3 means little nutrients for the zooxanthella, so less of them and less brown colour; iron is essential to chromoproteins, which built the colour, just as Iodine, Flour and bromine)
-the Nourishing condition of the coral (some plankton or other food is good for colour, but to much will brown them)


And that is the point:
A Jaubert takes down NO3 and PO4, so less zooxanthella but spends more Plankton (especially Bacteria) to feed the corals.
So less light is needed...

Also, do you think by dosing B-Ionic that the tank will get Iron & Mang, it supposedly has the trace elements too?
Sorry donÃ"šÃ‚´t know that B-Ionic.
But if you want to dose only iron go for the ZEOvit system, because they sell it seperate.
http://www.korallen-zucht.de/index.php?6&backPID=6&tt_products=23


@SLOreefer
I change my blue bulbs now every 6 month.
The aqualbue every 8 month and the sun every 10 month.
The blue spectrum is very unstable, so you have to change them more often.
 
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Hey fastuno, your tank looks great, i see the corals you got from me are doing great, especially that monti in the back!
you got it confused though, the less nutrients you have in a tank, the better everything looks, the sps forum talks about this stuff all the time so you could check it out there.
if you ever need anything, i always got some frags so just call. ;)
 
Frankdreistein, I have to do more reading on your system. You have the best results with the fewest lights I've ever seen. You're making me wonder if I should do T5 and save my lighting money and put it into Zeo.

My tank is 210cm Long x 90cm Wide x 65cm Deep. If I wanted to do T5, how would you recommend doing it? And if I want a "system" to add iron, and other things, would you recommend Zeo? It is getting very popular here in America at the moment.

Thanks.
 
@Fliger

Here in germany a very big number of people only use T5.
Some examples of big tanks with T5
http://aquabilderbuch.korallenriff.de/Bernd-Mohr/
http://aquabilderbuch.korallenriff.de/Norman-98/
http://aquabilderbuch.korallenriff.de/griem/
http://aquabilderbuch.korallenriff.de/ATI/
http://przezbor.pr.funpic.de/aquadesmonats/november.php
.....

for your tank you should take 7-9 bulbs with 80W (length 150cm) and on the right an left one 24W double bulb, so the sides get enough light.

Some parts of the ZEOvit system are very interesting too in a Jaubert system: ZEOspur 2, iron, ...
Especially we got some trace mixes you donÃ"šÃ‚´t get in the US, like Balling and Renke.
 
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Those are awesome tanks. I don't want to crowd this thread - can you provide some links t othe Jaubert method? Zeo is really expensive for a tank my size, is Jaubert cheaper?
 
Hey maxpower2112, what's up? Yea, overall the frags are doing great, monti dig is actually growing some & this is with the T5's 4" above the tank! The brown with blue center candy cane is doing great too. I have spot fed it some & hopefully it's on its way to expanding. The blue/green candy cane has melted a lot & shows some skeletal exposure. There are some heads that are not melted though, really don't know what to make of it...is this normal? Oh, & by the way regarding the nutrients, that is exactly what I have read that SPS do better with better quality water & I thought frankdreistein was trying to tell us the opposite, but now I know what he means.


frankdreistein, isn't the Jaubert method simply the same as an undergravel filter? The same one that is said to cause nitrate spikes? What is the difference between the two? Also, are there any types of corals that you would not consider placing in your tank, such as LPS/Softies, because of the battle for nutrient poor vs nutrient rich (I don't mean corals such as carnation...etc)? What type of LPS & softies do you have now?
 
frankdreistein, isn't the Jaubert method simply the same as an undergravel filter? The same one that is said to cause nitrate spikes? What is the difference between the two? Also, are there any types of corals that you would not consider placing in your tank, such as LPS/Softies, because of the battle for nutrient poor vs nutrient rich (I don't mean corals such as carnation...etc)? What type of LPS & softies do you have now?

It isnÃ"šÃ‚´t an undergravel filter, because these work in pushing water with a pump through the ground. They "produce" NO3.

A Jaubert just works with diffusion and takes down NO3.
It uses the same mechanisms as DSB but I never heard of craches with Jaubert systems.
An other point is that in DSB you can easily have the black anaerobic places but not in Jaubertground.
You donÃ"šÃ‚´t need critter packs.
...

http://saltaquarium.about.com/od/livesandjaubertsetups/a/aa052904jalbert.htm
http://archimedes.galilei.com/raiar/eggshell.html

SPS:
Montiporaplate (4 colours), Montipora digitata (4 colours), Montipora australiensis, Montipora incrassata, Pocillopora verrucosa, Pocillopora damicornis, Acropora aculeus, Acropora, Enzmann, Acropora tricolor, Acropora sp, Seriatopora hystrix, Seriatopora caliendrum, Echinopora lamelosa, Porites lobata, Anacropora forbesi
LPS:
Caulastrea furcata, Favites sp., Platygyra sp.
Softies:
Xenia, Discoma (3 colours), encrusted corals (3 colours), Ricordea florida, Capnella sp., Briareum (2 different), Sarcophyton ehrenbergi, Lobophytum sp. ,Erythropodium caribaeorum, Paralemnalia sp.
Anemone:
Entacmaea quadricolor red
clam:
Tridacna crocea
Gorgoniens:
Pseudopterogorgia bipinnata, Rumphella sp.

I put any corals I like in my tank and they all are doing fine
:)
 
"If you remove the up tubes and their associated air tubes from an Under Gravel Filter you will essentially have a basic plenum. DIY Under Gravel Filters are inexpensive and easily built in a few minutes."

Quote taken from that link. I see that its basically an undergravel filter less the water movement. What type of board can you/do you place? It has to be something perforated & porous to allow water diffusion, right?

I will have to do some research on this. If it works this well then I will have to implement this, but will probably do it in an external tank, such as a sump or refugium. If there are any problems one can simply disconnect the external tank & put in a new design relatively quickly.
 
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Fastuno, im very happy your corals are doing good. but that light blue candy cane...i guess you should try and frag off the dying parts. how about this, try and put it to a lower light place. it came out of my small tank which has little light on it so try putting it under a rock or just at the lower end of the tank. can you get a closer pic of the coral?
also, how is that nitrate problem going?
 
coreystang said:

That fixture has 2 problems.
1 no individual reflectors which is what really give t5's such an advantage over other lights.

2 Heat. Because the lamps are packed so close together those fixtures get dam hot. T5 lamps produce the most light and last the longest with an ambient air tempature somewhere around 90 degrees.
 
I've only been at this for about 6 months. I have a 46 gal bowfront with basically no lighting, just a single strip light that came with it. I have about 40lb of live rock, powerheads and a remora c skimmer with a sixline, maroon clown, firefish and a flame angel. Have been reading about lighting for a while and am leaning towards T5s for longevity of bulbs and less heat.
Would 4 x 39w, 36" be enough? I don't plan on tooo much coral, enough to add color. Can I keep the glass cover I have? Where do you recomend buying them?

Any other imput would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Mark
 
maxpower2112:
My nitrate problems are a thing of the past. I was overfeeding, so I stopped feeding for a week & the nitrate levels dropped significantly. Funny thing that only the nitrate levels were high & not nitrite or ammonia. I would love to feed my tank more, it's hard not to feed. Maybe I will try the Jaubert method & be able to feed a lot more?


print6196:
4 x 39w, 36" should be just fine, follow this thread below, he has the same type of setup.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=446846&perpage=25&pagenumber=1
 
yep 4x39 will do great on a 46 gallon. i wanted to do 4x39 on mine, but afetr putting the canopy together, and test fitting the lights, theres no ay to add a 4th bulb to mine. jsut not enough room
 
I so badly want to fill up my tank!
Latest tank pic:
38008784.jpg
 
Don't waste your time with those, they are el cheapo ones! Look how close the bulbs are...no room for the reflectors that are suppose to wrap around the bulb.

Stay away!!!!!
Look into Tek T5's by Sunlight.
 
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