Looking for a specific DC CC driver for LEDs

Current tank is ~2.5' x 8' = 20sqft running 1.2KW MH and 400W LED

Assuming LED are 3x par/W (just go with it for ballpark), I'm at the equivalent of 800W for 20 sqft.

That's about LED ~2400W/60sqft.
 
kapelan said:
Some questions:
1. 30 drivers each of them 3A and 36V would be 3000W
This power is enough to burn out any tank. If it is developed to multiple tanks it would make sense to split it by 3- 4 drivers.
2. If all drivers on the same PCB the current would be for each driver 3A. Total for 30 drivers it will come to 100A. It cannot be done from any PCB. It is different technology. Either it should be separated or find some cool PCB developer that can do 2-5mm sick roads.
Click to expand...

Each input is 3A and each output is 3A.

They come in on 5 separate feeds (10 wires), @ 12A each feeding 4 inputs with 3.5A each - Repeated 5x.

Or 6x (depending on my final design)

Then, they each leave the board on a separate pair - 40 wires feeding 20 LEDs with 3A each.

Each circuit on the board only has to process 3A. The highest current input is 12A.

Individual modules would make it sellable to other DIYers though. :)
 
OSHPark is just a pooled PCB manufacturer (but are top notch). Pay per sqinch, 3 boards minimum per design. Free shipping. Will take a few weeks but its even all made in the US (which is relevant since China will be down at least two more weeks due to golden week + turnover)

The actual board design was done in my copy of Altium.
 
@karminwassef,
Not to derail the thread but with a tank that size you might be well off to look into more electrically efficient means of providing the PAR to support the coral, then address color and white light.

The massive ebay style multi chips are terribly inefficient, a pair of luxeon k16 would give you at least as much and probably more PAR than a 100watt ebay royal blue multi chip.......just something to chew on.........much easier to implement also, those paired with vero chips and you can easily stay with LDD drivers, but you would need a few more........Paralleling chips would be viable on a build this big to improve efficiency and light coverage (normally not worth considering).
 
So..

I'm going to get a couple of these to try them out.
http://store3.sure-electronics.com/ps-sp12153

I emailed the builder and they said it should work up to 3A and 34V. We will see.

They dropped the price to $9.99 (2 dollars less?) after my e-mail... At least they're responsive to potential customers.

I also found this in case anyone is looking for an AC input
http://store3.sure-electronics.com/ps-sp11255

But the current level control is described as: "Changes in constant output current depend on supply voltage". I take this to mean DC control voltage since the input is AC.

Don't know for sure.
 
zachts said:
@karminwassef,
Not to derail the thread but with a tank that size you might be well off to look into more electrically efficient means of providing the PAR to support the coral, then address color and white light.

The massive ebay style multi chips are terribly inefficient, a pair of luxeon k16 would give you at least as much and probably more PAR than a 100watt ebay royal blue multi chip.......just something to chew on.........much easier to implement also, those paired with vero chips and you can easily stay with LDD drivers, but you would need a few more........Paralleling chips would be viable on a build this big to improve efficiency and light coverage (normally not worth considering).
Click to expand...

Ok. So I neglected to share the total design. This is the blue only content. This is a solar tank in a greenhouse - designed southfacing with 8-12 hours of sunlight a day.

The intensity of the blue is to compete with the sunlight's browning effects in a greenroom and provide as much UV content as I can manage.

I've used the single stars and they won't work for me. I need a small footprint solution and these will mount on a 1" liquid cooled fixture. I can't get enough of the single stars to provide the output I need on a single 8' x 1" fixture. The surface area won't support their physical dimensions.

The inefficiency of the multi-chips is the byproduct of poor cooling (based on my research). That's why I'm going conduction cooled with a peltier chiller (or more if needed). The intent is to run them at 3A (100W) each x 10 per fixture = 1KW each.

The stars would also be a lot more work.

Also - the reason for the ultra-dense light "strip" is to avoid obstructing the main source of light = sunlight. I needed a solution that could be very bright, but take up almost no surface area %.

So, I have two "blue sun-strips" at 1000W-1200W on either side of the tank competing with direct sunlight.
 
zachts said:
@karminwassef,
Not to derail the thread but with a tank that size you might be well off to look into more electrically efficient means of providing the PAR to support the coral, then address color and white light.

The massive ebay style multi chips are terribly inefficient, a pair of luxeon k16 would give you at least as much and probably more PAR than a 100watt ebay royal blue multi chip.......just something to chew on.........much easier to implement also, those paired with vero chips and you can easily stay with LDD drivers, but you would need a few more........Paralleling chips would be viable on a build this big to improve efficiency and light coverage (normally not worth considering).
Click to expand...

I have to admit though - those 24s do look good.

If I were looking for a bright white light. at 67V and 1.1A, they're close to 75W (but need serious cooling to operate there). But now I'd need a DC-DC boost converter from 48V to 67V at 1.1A constant current with dimming !! Got one of those? HA HA HA HA :D
 
karimwassef said:
I have to admit though - those 24s do look good.

If I were looking for a bright white light. at 67V and 1.1A, they're close to 75W (but need serious cooling to operate there). But now I'd need a DC-DC boost converter from 48V to 67V at 1.1A constant current with dimming !! Got one of those? HA HA HA HA :D
Click to expand...

Yeah I was really just thinking of the 16up luxeone k royal blues, (biggest high efficiency big name LED multichip I know of right now that we can get our hands on for a competative price) wish they did the larger ones in royal blue.........the Bridglux Vero might be a good evening supplement for you for white light though, my go to now for white light, 90+ CRI at 5600k......

small foot print similar to a 50watt multichip but much higher efficiency emitters. there is no comparison between the dies used in the luxeon K and the ebay chips, it's like a 4 or 5 to 1 in output compared at the same drive current. the ebay chips are old low efficiency tech, higher density but way, way lower performance. that's why I brought it up. A 9 die multichip from ebay driven at 1 amp can't compare to a single 4 die luxeon M driven at the same current, the M delivers 90 plus par at 12 inches with no optics, the K should be comparably 4 times that........

the nice thing about the K line is they are made by Philips and there is a huge gain in thermal efficiency on the multi chip pcb compared to those ebay specials that are cobbled together in someones garage by comparison.
 
The luxeon K8 could be parallel driven safely enough in your application without needing a boost driver......even the luxeon M though it's a few more solder points it's not really that much more work to string a few together.....
 
zachts said:
Yeah I was really just thinking of the 16up luxeone k royal blues, (biggest high efficiency big name LED multichip I know of right now that we can get our hands on for a competative price) wish they did the larger ones in royal blue.........the Bridglux Vero might be a good evening supplement for you for white light though, my go to now for white light, 90+ CRI at 5600k......

small foot print similar to a 50watt multichip but much higher efficiency emitters. there is no comparison between the dies used in the luxeon K and the ebay chips, it's like a 4 or 5 to 1 in output compared at the same drive current. the ebay chips are old low efficiency tech, higher density but way, way lower performance. that's why I brought it up. A 9 die multichip from ebay driven at 1 amp can't compare to a single 4 die luxeon M driven at the same current, the M delivers 90 plus par at 12 inches with no optics, the K should be comparably 4 times that........

the nice thing about the K line is they are made by Philips and there is a huge gain in thermal efficiency on the multi chip pcb compared to those ebay specials that are cobbled together in someones garage by comparison.
Click to expand...

So... The "ebay specials" I'm looking at are $160 each... For 100W.

I have a par meter, so I'll run both in the same fixture (I designed it to be interoperable for cooling and mounting with all multichips). I can believe 20% more, maybe 50% more... But not 5x

I love data.

I really think that thermal management (or mismanagement) is why most LED fixtures do well or fail. The LED is manufactured on the same equipment most of the time.
 
I have strung up stars before... Single and multi... It IS a lot more work.

Here's version 1.0 (I won't show version 0.1). These are the single 700mA 3.6V singles

<a href="http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/karimwassef/media/BDF1797A-303A-4314-A8B6-114AE2C1FE96_zps6so54qja.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t496/karimwassef/BDF1797A-303A-4314-A8B6-114AE2C1FE96_zps6so54qja.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo BDF1797A-303A-4314-A8B6-114AE2C1FE96_zps6so54qja.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/karimwassef/media/6102AF94-4DF2-4CBE-94D6-4A9F0788954F_zpsyoqnli6u.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t496/karimwassef/6102AF94-4DF2-4CBE-94D6-4A9F0788954F_zpsyoqnli6u.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 6102AF94-4DF2-4CBE-94D6-4A9F0788954F_zpsyoqnli6u.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/karimwassef/media/AA01D0DB-9EE2-4117-8803-1766CFCA9D94_zpsja6sjenk.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t496/karimwassef/AA01D0DB-9EE2-4117-8803-1766CFCA9D94_zpsja6sjenk.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo AA01D0DB-9EE2-4117-8803-1766CFCA9D94_zpsja6sjenk.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/karimwassef/media/827217E2-6DED-4C75-A2AF-C25004C1B927_zpsiw3zjfgm.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t496/karimwassef/827217E2-6DED-4C75-A2AF-C25004C1B927_zpsiw3zjfgm.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 827217E2-6DED-4C75-A2AF-C25004C1B927_zpsiw3zjfgm.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/karimwassef/media/F1CBE24B-891C-4EC3-A8C8-9236086A8601_zpsvrqifpxa.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t496/karimwassef/F1CBE24B-891C-4EC3-A8C8-9236086A8601_zpsvrqifpxa.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo F1CBE24B-891C-4EC3-A8C8-9236086A8601_zpsvrqifpxa.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/karimwassef/media/54FC0BFA-DD45-46AA-85B4-0D65EAD3AE1F_zpsivgvyotl.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t496/karimwassef/54FC0BFA-DD45-46AA-85B4-0D65EAD3AE1F_zpsivgvyotl.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 54FC0BFA-DD45-46AA-85B4-0D65EAD3AE1F_zpsivgvyotl.jpg"/></a>

Life was so much simpler back then. Just a 48V supply and a few LDD-700H with 10 per string...
 
It's not connected directly to the mains. I have a rectifier with an isolated stage between the PFC output and the total output. It does live on my DC bus for a failure on the input side could collapse the bus, but the rectifier would latch off.

Oops! Edit. Shouldn't type at 5am with no sleep... You're talking about the AC input. Good call on that!
 
karimwassef said:
So... The "ebay specials" I'm looking at are $160 each... For 100W.

I have a par meter, so I'll run both in the same fixture (I designed it to be interoperable for cooling and mounting with all multichips). I can believe 20% more, maybe 50% more... But not 5x

I love data.

I really think that thermal management (or mismanagement) is why most LED fixtures do well or fail. The LED is manufactured on the same equipment most of the time.
Click to expand...

which multichips, can you post the link. seems pricier than what I was assuming so maybe a better breed of "ebay special".
 
Yikes - the price jumped to $225 on the ones I was looking at.

I found it from another vendor.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/UV-LED-10W-...hash=item3d0deb00c6:m:mPOaZTw4E4SCAdbgk6rco3A

Price varies dramatically depending on wavelength and power:
100W @ 365nm = $182
100W @ 395nm = $54

The very high frequency LEDs are not manufactured on the same lines as the cheap $9.99 white multi-chips. They wouldn't even pass test.

But to test my setup, I'm getting 100W $2 multi-chips - these are disposable and intended for testing and PAR reference only.

Here's the one I was looking at before-
http://www.ebay.com/itm/100W-100-Wa...345954?hash=item35df2a1da2:g:v2AAAOSwAYtWLzrv

These chips usually go into UV vision inspection equipment or UV cure industrial machines. They just happen to have the desired frequency for my supplemental effect. The raw materials are in short supply and the number of manufacturers who can build it is limited. So - the supply is usually from the same suppliers.

In any case, I'm going to measure PAR on every chip I get and run at least a 170hr burn-in and PAR re-test.

I also found this - I think the guy I was emailing at Sure has posted 20x of the buck converters based on my exchange with him - Only $5 a piece.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/20pcs-300-3...879603?hash=item2a4dbd52f3:g:wRUAAOSwo8hTopLs

HA HA HA HA
 
In case anyone is concerned with the risks of UV
http://www.uvp.com/uvapplications.html

This is not germicidal frequency UV C (180-200nm) or even tanning frequency UV B (254-320nm). It's on the low end of UV A (365-400nm) where fluorescence is most dominant:

http://smartvisionlights.com/wp-content/uploads/pdf/SVL_UV_365_vs_395.pdf

I may also just run cheap royal blues for a few months to collect data on the whole system without a lot of risk. The design is intended to replace bulbs as needed.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/100W-100-Wa...hash=item540ae2e2b8:m:mQP2NX24YCY63nUXbp_95Iw

I don't know why the price varies by 2x ... so I'm going to collect data (reliability and PAR) and post what I find

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-PC-100w-R...864981?hash=item2ed3708f95:g:d68AAOxyBjBTT-ff
 
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