karimwassef
Active member
I keep my Alk, pH and Ca up independent of salinity by the way. It's 8.5dKH, 8.4pH and 440 Ca.
Marine velvet - near wipeout
- Thread starter karimwassef
- Start date
karimwassef
Active member
Oh. And what's the best way to uncopper my SG meter going from my QT to my reef? I'm using an external bucket of reef water to check salinity but I'd like to know if there's a protocol to follow?
CoralsAddiction
Active member
When I mix my water it's always 1..026 but by the time I do another weekly water change it drops down to 1.024 due to ATO with RO/DI water with no salt in it. That would be my recommendation.
But the lowest I would run my reef would be 1.022
CoralsAddiction
Active member
Some people keep their fish only and FOWLR systems at 1.017 at all times with no ill effects. Not something I would do even in a FOWLR but it's done quite often.
CoralsAddiction
Active member
From wetwebmedia
Because the seawater they live in is far saltier than their blood and internal body fluids, marine fish are constantly losing water by diffusion through their gills and the surface of their skin, as well as in their urine. The mucus layer or slime coat of the fish helps waterproof the skin and reduces the amount of water that can diffuse through its surface (Kollman, 1998). However, when the skin is compromised by abrasions or attacked by parasites such as Costia, Cryptocaryon, Cryptobia, Amyloodinium, Brooklynella, Epistylus and the like, this protective barrier is damaged and water is lost at an increasing rate (Kollman, 1998). The affected fish can easily become dehydrated as a result, further debilitating them
Because the seawater they live in is far saltier than their blood and internal body fluids, marine fish are constantly losing water by diffusion through their gills and the surface of their skin, as well as in their urine. The mucus layer or slime coat of the fish helps waterproof the skin and reduces the amount of water that can diffuse through its surface (Kollman, 1998). However, when the skin is compromised by abrasions or attacked by parasites such as Costia, Cryptocaryon, Cryptobia, Amyloodinium, Brooklynella, Epistylus and the like, this protective barrier is damaged and water is lost at an increasing rate (Kollman, 1998). The affected fish can easily become dehydrated as a result, further debilitating them
CoralsAddiction
Active member
Hopefully you also bought a copper test kit. Without one its hard to treat effectively.
karimwassef
Active member
Thanks. I'll hold my reef at 1.022
tkeracer619
New member
I got Velvet from LiveAquaria DD a month and a half ago, I feel your pain.
karimwassef
Active member
No copper test kit. Didn't know I needed one.
I did manage to catch the male but that's good and bad news. I caught him because he's very sluggish too.
I did manage to catch the male but that's good and bad news. I caught him because he's very sluggish too.
firemountain
New member
Oh wonderful.....I just made my first purchase from LA/DD last month with a gold assessor basslet and a fighting conch. Both were put through the TTM and a are now in QT for about a week. Gonna run 2 rounds of Prazipro this week and see what happens. Sofar they both appear fine and show no ill signs, but now gonna keep a close eye on them. I thin I may keep them in quarantine a bit longer than my initial 4-6 weeks.
karimwassef
Active member
Snorvich - which blog are your QT recommendations in?
TTM plus a minimum of 3 weeks is preferred, but 4 would be better. You won't see issues before then.
My blog is at here. There are quite a few entries you might find useful, basically anything on fish diseases and parasites.
You are going to have to test a minimum of once per day, preferably twice. If you drop below the therapeutic dosage level, the treatment is ineffective.
bobbravo2
Reef Addict
Good luck! I've been there, and now QT all new fish. PetCo is having their dollar per gallon sale, you can get a 20h for $20, which is tempting me to upgrade my QT.
Salinity on your DT is definitely high, I run mine at 1.0255
You asked about cleaning your hydrometer, I'd strongly recommend investing in a refractometer, especially with QT, as it's very sensitive to evaporation on a daily basis. They are dead simple to clean, just wipe off with your shirt.
Salinity on your DT is definitely high, I run mine at 1.0255
You asked about cleaning your hydrometer, I'd strongly recommend investing in a refractometer, especially with QT, as it's very sensitive to evaporation on a daily basis. They are dead simple to clean, just wipe off with your shirt.
CoralsAddiction
Active member
karimwassef
Active member
I use a salinity/conductivity probe - so no refractometer.
Seachem Cupramine Copper 100ml is what I got.
I did get two 20gals from PetCo to upgrade my QT. Unfortunately, one leaked immediately. Taking it back to day.
Seachem Cupramine Copper 100ml is what I got.
I did get two 20gals from PetCo to upgrade my QT. Unfortunately, one leaked immediately. Taking it back to day.
Xtremeclownfish
In Memoriam
Sad to hear, and sorry for your loss. How is marine velvet introduce to your tank?
karimwassef
Active member
We think it's a LiveAquaria shipment coupled with ineffective quarantine on my part.
CoralsAddiction
Active member
This should help you getting the right amount of cupramine in your QT since you don't have a copper test kit.
http://www.seachem.com/support/forums/showthread.php?t=3998
