Mars Aqua Chinese LED review (Ebay)
- Thread starter Atomic081
- Start date
Isaacs55
New member
Not at all! If you are handy and like to do things yourself, there is no reason to buy the more expensive market lights. It cost me less than 10 dollars to mod my configuration to how I wanted it. It's definitely worth it in my opinion.
Now if you aren't good at DIY or modding then sure, spend the EXTRA money on big name LEDs. Or even if you prefer to just not deal with it then yea, buy the more expensive units. But there's a reason why we buy these black boxes and there's a reason why this thread is so big. It's because they work even without modding and they have been proven to work very well in our aquariums.
Good morning:
Saw your picture on the Chinese light /eBay.love the way your conopy looks. I just bought the Leds and I am in the process of building a conopy frame. By any chance can you upload a more lighted picture for the canopy? And what kind of grated inserts did you use?
Saw your picture on the Chinese light /eBay.love the way your conopy looks. I just bought the Leds and I am in the process of building a conopy frame. By any chance can you upload a more lighted picture for the canopy? And what kind of grated inserts did you use?
These might help some of you make up your mind.
MarsAqua 300W LED layout - at least as best as I can figure, based on the images available online and the one, among others, below of one of mine.
This is an "island" walk-around 300DD, with the reef running diagonally from the left rear in this image to about 2/3 of the way to the right front with a euphyllia/montipora outcropping in the right rear corner and a Paly rock the in right front corner. Two 165W Galaxy Hydro and four 300W MarsAqua, mounted on pocket door rails in the canopy. These rails allow me to "roll in/roll out" the fixtures from the canopy pretty easily for cleaning. Layout is: 165W 300W (brace) 300W 300W (brace) 300W 165W. I have six Kessils providing additional light (and dawn/dusk), with two on the outside corners at each end and two in the middle front and back facing in.
I'll let the pictures tell the rest of the story. I still have to work on my picture taking skills, I'm afraid.
Here's the trucks mounted on one of the fixtures. I've also moved the C14 inlet plugs to the end for easy access at the back of the canopy.
Kessils only on.
All lights on.
Bank one on (one 165W, one 300W)
Bank two on (two 300W).
Now this said, my slightly over-exposed pictures don't really do these lights justice. I've been using this array for two months now, replacing three 250W metal halide (Radiums). The corals have demonstrated marked growth in nearly all instances, with some of the expected color shifting to new pigments/photo-inhibitors such as greens and turquoise blues.
After previous experience with under-powered LEDs, much reading, and doubling down to cover the reef, I'm very satisfied so far with this purchase. I've also picked up some 405-410nm and 420-425nm Epistar LEDS to replace some of the 450nm and 12K white (too cool for my liking), but I'm leaving the couple reds and greens in place not only to appease my eyes, but for the use some of my shallow water acros might gain from them.
Cheers,
Ray
fishbox
New member
My father is an electrician. So mods aren't any issue. I was just trying to check on cost of mods.
I have a quick question for you all. Hopefully not to general. I have 4x 165w Sunspect (same black box as mars aqua) running on my 72" x 24" deep tank. My lights are around 5" off the surface.
I've not done any mods to my lights.
What intensity are you guys running your lights at in this deep of a tank? I've been typically running my white channel at 50% but I'm still thinking even this is too much. Also, should I be running my blue channel during the day? I noticed the white channel has blue LED's in with it so I havent been.
Thanks!
I've not done any mods to my lights.
What intensity are you guys running your lights at in this deep of a tank? I've been typically running my white channel at 50% but I'm still thinking even this is too much. Also, should I be running my blue channel during the day? I noticed the white channel has blue LED's in with it so I havent been.
Thanks!
rsain
Empiricism's Evangelist
Depends on how many parts you're replacing.
I have 2 165s. Ordered the following bridgelux leds: 420nm (x10), 10,000k (x10), 20,000k (x10). And four of the newegg yellow fans referenced early in this thread. Total, including shipping was about 60 bucks. Plus time to do the upgrade and other mods (I calculate shop time at 40/hr). It was WAY more than worth it to mod these boxes. I do not have them modded for a controller as I don't have one. Lol.
So lights were about $160 + $60 (parts) + $80 (shop time) = $300 for 2 led boxes.
-ryan
I have 2 165s. Ordered the following bridgelux leds: 420nm (x10), 10,000k (x10), 20,000k (x10). And four of the newegg yellow fans referenced early in this thread. Total, including shipping was about 60 bucks. Plus time to do the upgrade and other mods (I calculate shop time at 40/hr). It was WAY more than worth it to mod these boxes. I do not have them modded for a controller as I don't have one. Lol.
So lights were about $160 + $60 (parts) + $80 (shop time) = $300 for 2 led boxes.
-ryan
fishbox
New member
That sounds good to me. I'm probably only gonna need one over my 40BDepends on how many parts you're replacing.
I have 2 165s. Ordered the following bridgelux leds: 420nm (x10), 10,000k (x10), 20,000k (x10). And four of the newegg yellow fans referenced early in this thread. Total, including shipping was about 60 bucks. Plus time to do the upgrade and other mods (I calculate shop time at 40/hr). It was WAY more than worth it to mod these boxes. I do not have them modded for a controller as I don't have one. Lol.
So lights were about $160 + $60 (parts) + $80 (shop time) = $300 for 2 led boxes.
-ryan
warlock_king
New member
I can't seem to find a reference as to where you're buying the LEDs. I found them all over but would be interested in making certain I got them from a reputable source and the correct LEDs.
Swope2bc
New member
I have not changed any of the LEDs in mine, but did the mod to run it from my APEX (same process for reef keeper) and it cost me around $30 or so. So this gives me a sweet light that runs flawlessly from my APEX for under $200. I only hear the fans if there is absolutely no other noise in the room. Well worth it IMHO.
I would definitely run your blues during the day, that's providing a huge amount of the spectrum that your corals need. I run about 50% whites and 70% blues but it's basically what you prefer. Just be sure to give your coral time to adjust to higher intensities or you will burn them.
rsain
Empiricism's Evangelist
Early in the thread: search LED EBAY or 420nm (in thread only) and you'll find it before I can copy a link to you. There are many many options.
- ryan
http://www.ebay.com/itm/191388798412?var=490500755694
should I buy this diodes to replace my 3k for20k's?
should I buy this diodes to replace my 3k for20k's?
@90tanknj - I don't have a whole heck of a lot of detail shots of the canopy, it's basically a run of the mill (Monterey, I think) mfr canopy that I've customized for my use. I've put another door on the back with multiple hinges and ultra quiet fans to move air and extra supports (think along the line of trusses) across the top to support the fixtures.
In this image you can see the mounts I use for the Kessils as well. Those are two 2" vents that run the full length of the canopy that also nearly divide the top into thirds. I reinforced the middle/rear brace (or "truss") with two 1" X 2"s, and the front (which is where the hinges for the whole front of the canopy are as well - the whole front "folds back" and rests on the canopy for access) with an additional 1" X 2". It seems pretty sturdy this way. I probably could have over-engineered it and used u-channel or some such, and might still down the road.
The grilles/grating went through two stages. The first was remove the stock doors and cut out some eggcrate to fit, using a few simple screws to rest the eggcrate on and hold it in place. I painted it black to hold it in place. Received a few comments along the lines of "I see your aquarium lights on the television", so I cut some 2" X 10" holes in the doors and put some air conditioning vents (again, painted black) over them to help alleviate the light spill issues.
Just using eggcrate - lots of ventilation, also lots of light spill.
With the air conditioning vent grill in place. Still have reasonable air flow, blocks most of the light spill.
Drop me a note if you need any additional pictures or details, and I'll see what I can fit in over the weekend.
Cheers,
Ray
p.s. for those searching for LEDs, I ran a Google search for "epistar 3W 420nm LED" and went through the hits to find the ones without the star mount. They have a selection out there.
In this image you can see the mounts I use for the Kessils as well. Those are two 2" vents that run the full length of the canopy that also nearly divide the top into thirds. I reinforced the middle/rear brace (or "truss") with two 1" X 2"s, and the front (which is where the hinges for the whole front of the canopy are as well - the whole front "folds back" and rests on the canopy for access) with an additional 1" X 2". It seems pretty sturdy this way. I probably could have over-engineered it and used u-channel or some such, and might still down the road.
The grilles/grating went through two stages. The first was remove the stock doors and cut out some eggcrate to fit, using a few simple screws to rest the eggcrate on and hold it in place. I painted it black to hold it in place. Received a few comments along the lines of "I see your aquarium lights on the television", so I cut some 2" X 10" holes in the doors and put some air conditioning vents (again, painted black) over them to help alleviate the light spill issues.
Just using eggcrate - lots of ventilation, also lots of light spill.
With the air conditioning vent grill in place. Still have reasonable air flow, blocks most of the light spill.
Drop me a note if you need any additional pictures or details, and I'll see what I can fit in over the weekend.
Cheers,
Ray
p.s. for those searching for LEDs, I ran a Google search for "epistar 3W 420nm LED" and went through the hits to find the ones without the star mount. They have a selection out there.
rsain
Empiricism's Evangelist
If you want a 20k color to replace the 3k color.
I bought those, and the 10k just to see which i like and in which combination.
- ryan
Thank you I just love the idea of
The grate and vents on top. I just started framing for a canopy and came across your pictures. Greatly appreciated.
QUOTE=rgulrich;24180422]@90tanknj - I don't have a whole heck of a lot of detail shots of the canopy, it's basically a run of the mill (Monterey, I think) mfr canopy that I've customized for my use. I've put another door on the back with multiple hinges and ultra quiet fans to move air and extra supports (think along the line of trusses) across the top to support the fixtures.
In this image you can see the mounts I use for the Kessils as well. Those are two 2" vents that run the full length of the canopy that also nearly divide the top into thirds. I reinforced the middle/rear brace (or "truss") with two 1" X 2"s, and the front (which is where the hinges for the whole front of the canopy are as well - the whole front "folds back" and rests on the canopy for access) with an additional 1" X 2". It seems pretty sturdy this way. I probably could have over-engineered it and used u-channel or some such, and might still down the road.
The grilles/grating went through two stages. The first was remove the stock doors and cut out some eggcrate to fit, using a few simple screws to rest the eggcrate on and hold it in place. I painted it black to hold it in place. Received a few comments along the lines of "I see your aquarium lights on the television", so I cut some 2" X 10" holes in the doors and put some air conditioning vents (again, painted black) over them to help alleviate the light spill issues.
Just using eggcrate - lots of ventilation, also lots of light spill.
With the air conditioning vent grill in place. Still have reasonable air flow, blocks most of the light spill.
Drop me a note if you need any additional pictures or details, and I'll see what I can fit in over the weekend.
Cheers,
Ray
p.s. for those searching for LEDs, I ran a Google search for "epistar 3W 420nm LED" and went through the hits to find the ones without the star mount. They have a selection out there.[/QUOTE]
The grate and vents on top. I just started framing for a canopy and came across your pictures. Greatly appreciated.
QUOTE=rgulrich;24180422]@90tanknj - I don't have a whole heck of a lot of detail shots of the canopy, it's basically a run of the mill (Monterey, I think) mfr canopy that I've customized for my use. I've put another door on the back with multiple hinges and ultra quiet fans to move air and extra supports (think along the line of trusses) across the top to support the fixtures.
In this image you can see the mounts I use for the Kessils as well. Those are two 2" vents that run the full length of the canopy that also nearly divide the top into thirds. I reinforced the middle/rear brace (or "truss") with two 1" X 2"s, and the front (which is where the hinges for the whole front of the canopy are as well - the whole front "folds back" and rests on the canopy for access) with an additional 1" X 2". It seems pretty sturdy this way. I probably could have over-engineered it and used u-channel or some such, and might still down the road.
The grilles/grating went through two stages. The first was remove the stock doors and cut out some eggcrate to fit, using a few simple screws to rest the eggcrate on and hold it in place. I painted it black to hold it in place. Received a few comments along the lines of "I see your aquarium lights on the television", so I cut some 2" X 10" holes in the doors and put some air conditioning vents (again, painted black) over them to help alleviate the light spill issues.
Just using eggcrate - lots of ventilation, also lots of light spill.
With the air conditioning vent grill in place. Still have reasonable air flow, blocks most of the light spill.
Drop me a note if you need any additional pictures or details, and I'll see what I can fit in over the weekend.
Cheers,
Ray
p.s. for those searching for LEDs, I ran a Google search for "epistar 3W 420nm LED" and went through the hits to find the ones without the star mount. They have a selection out there.[/QUOTE]
firebirdude
User and Abuser
I probably have $40 max invested in upgrades for the 300W model, including new fans and a few LEDs. The apex mod is free/nearly free. You're not doing anything but hardwiring a couple wires to the circuit board. Buying the ALC, or whatever lighting controller module you need, would be necessary no matter what LED light fixture you purchase, therefore, should not be included as an "upgrade" cost vs another fixture.
CThomas1026
New member
Could anyone link me a good youtube tutorial on connecting to Apex?
firebirdude
User and Abuser
That's exactly what the walkthrough I posted up shows to do and that's exactly what I did. The ReefKeeper/ALC is able to turn the fixture on/off, but no dimming.Lol
I still need to do more digging on the alc but taken at face value and now with a better understanding of how the driver dims, it should be fairly simple.
If your dimmer looks like this
Then you need to unplug the cable from the dimmer and bridge the "V+: and "ON/OFF" pins. Then connect the "VDM+" pin to the 0-10v signal pin on the alc and the "VDM-" pin to the 0-10v gnd pin on the alc.
As a caution don't parallel drivers together use a separate chanel for each driver, if the voltage on the "VDM+" pin is not perfectly matched the drivers may mess with each other potentially resulting in permanent damage.
