Mars Aqua Chinese LED review (Ebay)

[FatKidWithRocks]

Since there doesn't seem to be a single quality pic of a tank under this light, here is one. Tank is a 40 breeder. Optics removed, added a thin diffuser sheet to the splash shield, and swapped the red and green LEDs for violet. Using a Bluefish for control, set to 85% white and 45% blue in the photo and video.

On an aquarium hobby forum, in the lighting section in a thread talking about said lights.... Took till page 33 thank you, sir.

 

[Swope2bc]

On an aquarium hobby forum, in the lighting section in a thread talking about said lights.... Took till page 33 thank you, sir.

I see tank pics starting on page one... In fact,

1,2,3,5,8,9,12,13,15,17, etc... Though they may not be the best quality many of them highlight the quality of light provided by these fixtures. Another image is appreciated though [emoji39]

 

[Isaacs55]

I see tank pics starting on page one... In fact,

1,2,3,5,8,9,12,13,15,17, etc... Though they may not be the best quality many of them highlight the quality of light provided by these fixtures. Another image is appreciated though [emoji39]

+1 lol

And there are multiple videos that show these lights as well.
:lmao: :rollface:

 

[Isaacs55]

Since there doesn't seem to be a single quality pic of a tank under this light, here is one. Tank is a 40 breeder. Optics removed, added a thin diffuser sheet to the splash shield, and swapped the red and green LEDs for violet. Using a Bluefish for control, set to 85% white and 45% blue in the photo and video.

I think you're mistaken bud... You might want to actually go back and read through the thread...which I doubt you did since you clearly missed it...

Not high end quality but it works:

All blues


All whites



Blue and whites on

 

[Isaacs55]

Oh and here's a video that also shows the actual Ramping of this Unit...

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/jwJ3IMZPm8o" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[jedimasterben]

The flow in that tank is incredible...

Yeah, it's pretty good. I'd like more, but if I turn the Gyre up any more it pushes water out the end of the tank. :eek1:

I see tank pics starting on page one... In fact,

1,2,3,5,8,9,12,13,15,17, etc... Though they may not be the best quality many of them highlight the quality of light provided by these fixtures. Another image is appreciated though [emoji39]

I think you're mistaken bud... You might want to actually go back and read through the thread...which I doubt you did since you clearly missed it...

I actually didn't miss anything. What I was getting at was that basically every photo I've come across has not been indicative of the actual look of the light and was either a little bit blown out by all the blue or completely blown out. If you were shopping for a light and trying to decide between several and the only photos you had to choose from were all generally poor in quality and blown out with blue, would you be able to tell the difference, since each light would look much different in person? I'm not saying to take pictures of their tank everyone needs to run out and spend a grand on a DSLR and decent lens, but when trying to make decisions, it's best to have a better representation of what you're getting.

 

[Isaacs55]

Yeah, it's pretty good. I'd like more, but if I turn the Gyre up any more it pushes water out the end of the tank. :eek1:



I actually didn't miss anything. What I was getting at was that basically every photo I've come across has not been indicative of the actual look of the light and was either a little bit blown out by all the blue or completely blown out. If you were shopping for a light and trying to decide between several and the only photos you had to choose from were all generally poor in quality and blown out with blue, would you be able to tell the difference, since each light would look much different in person? I'm not saying to take pictures of their tank everyone needs to run out and spend a grand on a DSLR and decent lens, but when trying to make decisions, it's best to have a better representation of what you're getting.

Idk...you must be blind then because my photos are spot on with how they look in real life...your photo doesn't look anything like what my lights look like over my tank. And in the photo that is stated only whites channel on, is pretty darn spot on to the T...

again...you clearly missed it.

 

[Swope2bc]

Yeah, it's pretty good. I'd like more, but if I turn the Gyre up any more it pushes water out the end of the tank. :eek1:



I actually didn't miss anything. What I was getting at was that basically every photo I've come across has not been indicative of the actual look of the light and was either a little bit blown out by all the blue or completely blown out. If you were shopping for a light and trying to decide between several and the only photos you had to choose from were all generally poor in quality and blown out with blue, would you be able to tell the difference, since each light would look much different in person? I'm not saying to take pictures of their tank everyone needs to run out and spend a grand on a DSLR and decent lens, but when trying to make decisions, it's best to have a better representation of what you're getting.

It's all good, now everyone has ruffled feathers lol, thanks for your photos nonetheless [emoji3]

 

[Dartolution]

These might help some of you make up your mind.


MarsAqua 300W LED layout - at least as best as I can figure, based on the images available online and the one, among others, below of one of mine.

Based on this image, which was extremely helpful I think what would be a good mod for mine is the following:

Switch the WarmWhite(3.5K) Diodes on the edges (4), and the (4) in the center to 400-415nm Violets.

Switch the (4) Reds and (4) greens to UV @ 395-400nm's.

Then,
Switch the remaining (2) WarmWhite's to 20-25K, as well as both(2) NeutralWhite[7.5K] on the front edges, and the back center NW for a total of (5) 20-25K diodes on the white channel.

All of these replacements will be on the white channel, which I plan to run around 60-80% with the original Optics.


Thoughts?
Any suggestions?
What about removing the optics and run both channels at 100% 6-8" off the surface of the water?

 

[bvaughn7]

I like my SBlights, but if I had to do it over again i would look around. I had many problems with my order and still haven't gotten mine squared away. I had to follow up constantly lest my order get forgotten again. Trying to be patient only got me forgotten. TWO weeks went by lights had not even been ordered. Also I would not have gotten the timer lights. Mine failed and I have no faith they will last. Much better to have gotten a simple switch and used a wall timer. If they fail I will not go back to the company. I will find another light and replace whatever colors I want.

 

[jedimasterben]

Swapped out the fans in my panel today, paid $13 for them on Amazon (Arctic F8) and they're significantly quieter than the stock fans.

 

[rgulrich]

Out of the four MarsAqua 300W that I purchased a few months back, I had one driver go bad. After basic trouble shooting (open box, disconnect drivers until suspect was found, plug in other driver to verify fault) I sent an email to the company Sunday 15Nov15 at 22:30 to service@lgledsolutions.com and received an email response in less than 24 hours (sent at 07:40pm on 15Nov15...yep same day...international date line?) from:
L Building, JingTie Industrial Park
He'ao Village,Henggang Town
LongGang District, Shenzhen, 518115,China

They asked me how I verified a bad driver and I sent them the above info on the process and a couple pictures showing the driver in question. They put a new driver in the mail (they didn't have any in the US warehouse) and it arrived and was installed about a week and a half-two weeks later. Worked fine.

Other that that, the colors with both channels at 100% (I have a pretty deep aquarium and light-hungry coral) provides a little too "cool white" of an appearance for my tastes, but the colors are coming out great in my coral and growth is comparable to my old 250W halides.

I do plan on swapping out some LEDs at some point to bring in some more of the 420nm range, and perhaps tweak the appearance a bit more toward a "warmer" white...I've always been kind of a shallow-water reef guy when it comes to visual preference. Upgraded fans are also on the list, of course, along with a couple additional heat spreaders in each fixture.

Cheers,
Ray

Oh, for what it's worth, I picked up 50 each of the 405-410nm and 420-425nm Epistars for this project for the "Actinic" supplement. I gladly welcome suggestions for boosting the appearance to a "warmer" range. Here's my thoughts on an updated layout so far:

 

[jhowerton]

I have two Mars 300's. one over a 40b and the other is not being used right now. I haven't had much luck getting corals to grow but I think it has been mostly water quality issues.

I was considering switching to a MH T-5 combo so there was nothing to adjust, but after reading this entire thread I'm going to stick with the Mars fixture. I never felt like I had the adjustments correct so I'm planning on getting a BioTek Marine BTM3000 PAR Sensor.

Is anyone using this?
Does it work well?
What PAR reading should I shoot for at top, middle & bottom of the tank?

Thanks

 

[rgulrich]

I have the BTM3000 - it works fine, and is especially easy to use with the sensor arm...more so with deeper aquariums.
As far as readings to shoot for, well, if I can get some time today I can take a sample range to provide an example. The only thing I've used PAR readings in the past for is a basis of comparison for my own purposes, as the readings can be pretty skewed even between similar systems. I've always used the reaction of the coral as the final determining factor - polyp extension, pigmentation, growth, even anemone expansion and clam mantle size and growth. These will of course be influenced by water quality and such, too.

 

[jhowerton]

Thanks rgulrich, I would appreciate seeing your readings. I think I just need to get in the ballpark and I can go from there based on coral reaction.

My tank is also infested with aptasia so I'm going to start it over and get it right this time.

Thanks

 

[Maritimer]

Received a little packet of LEDs and itsy-tiny resistors from MarsHydro, and got together with a fellow who knows soldering moderately well to replace the one diode which arrived unlit. (One of the diode's contacts wasn't making a connection) Reattached the optics, as I've got a two-foot deep tank, and hung it over the water.

Right now, I've got both channels at their lowest output, as my tank is pretty newly cycled - no corals, and no algaes as yet. I'm rather pleased with the color, but I'm probably pretty easy to keep happy most of the time. Currently running the blue channel from about 6 am to 8 pm, and the whites from 11 am to 7 pm. (Wishing I could enjoy more of this time in front of the glass - a lot of these "daylight" hours take place while I'm at work!) I figure that's as close to a sunrise & sunset effect as I'm likely to get, but I have seen that some fish are strongly startled ("Dive to the rockwork!!") by the switch from white to blue-only.

Please feel free to chime in with any tweaks you think might help optimize life for the life under the light!

Overall - very pleased with both the light and with the vendor.

~Bruce

 

[Squared]

I just hung the 165w up and over my temporary 29g, about 15" above the water line.



The color is very nice and even but obviously there is a little shading over the edges. The tank that is supposed to be there is a 40 gallon, not to much bigger and a little shorter.

Is there any problem with running these at any setting where the fans do not turn on? Could it overheat? Right now they are at the lowest setting for both channels.

 

[fairl80z]

2 of these fixtures over a 120 corals are loving it

 

[90tanknj]

Does anybody know the specs on the Marsaqua
Power supply?
Drivers?
Current that the led are run under? 350 ma or 700 ma

 

[seamonster124]

Mars Aqua Chinese LED review (Ebay)

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