Mars Aqua Chinese LED review (Ebay)

I use separate timers for blues and whites so that's why I need two. If you have it all go on and off at once then yeah you'll need less.
 
Has everyone who ordered MarsAqua 165w units been receiving them with pwm used to dim? I bought a 165w not branded MarsAqua a year ago and unfortunately, mine is the 0-10v (not pwm) variant.
 
I am happy to see some other uv nazis on here like me. When people call 400-430 nm violet diodes "UV" it is like nails on a chalk board. It's like calling the 660 nm red diodes "infrared". Manufacturers only do it because ultraviolet just sounds zippier than violet. Doesn't make it right though. Most modern schools of thought actually believe the whole "UV-A is what causes corals to color up because it's their sunscreen" idea is totally bunk anyway.

UltraViolent ?!? :0)


I plan to change the all the yellow 3500k and a few 7500k whites to either 10k or 14k .. and replace the greens and reds with 420nm. I want an old school power compact 50/50 bulbs look with both the blue side and white side running together. I miss the more purple actinics though.. The blue side turned on by itself gives off a similar effect so I will leave it alone for now... the glow is cool but its just not as cool as the old school purple t12 VHO bulbs. I'm afraid if on the white side of the light I put too much more blue like 20k emitters instead of the 10k it will just be super blue again and I'm not interested in that becuase I can always crank the blue side up to give that effect.

Does my plan seem logical.. am I crazy am I missing anything.


Will removing the optics create more or less shimmer? I would like more spread and less shadows but since running t5s for the last 8-10 years I forgot how much I like the shimmer.

Thanks for the responses/flames/advice.
 
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d48d96f7d2e330854229296a5f04d1c2.jpg

Here's a terrible iPhone shot. All the monties and chalice and most lps died from something in my tank, wiped out completely. All sps browned and essentially were dead.

These are the only lights I've been running since 11/14, and I got the monties and chalice growing back and quickly. These lights support growth for sure
 
UltraViolent ?!? :0)


I plan to change the all the yellow 3500k and a few 7500k whites to either 10k or 14k .. and replace the greens and reds with 420nm. I want an old school power compact 50/50 bulbs look with both the blue side and white side running together. I miss the more purple actinics though.. The blue side turned on by itself gives off a similar effect so I will leave it alone for now... the glow is cool but its just not as cool as the old school purple t12 VHO bulbs. I'm afraid if on the white side of the light I put too much more blue like 20k emitters instead of the 10k it will just be super blue again and I'm not interested in that becuase I can always crank the blue side up to give that effect.

Does my plan seem logical.. am I crazy am I missing anything.


Will removing the optics create more or less shimmer? I would like more spread and less shadows but since running t5s for the last 8-10 years I forgot how much I like the shimmer.

Thanks for the responses/flames/advice.


i have to same plan as you ...with swapping out the 3500k with 10k and reds and greens .with 420 violets.....i got the leds in but just hadnt had time to do it yet...lol...i dont think removing the optics will give you less shimmer...just more spread.....
 
i have to same plan as you ...with swapping out the 3500k with 10k and reds and greens .with 420 violets.....i got the leds in but just hadnt had time to do it yet...lol...i dont think removing the optics will give you less shimmer...just more spread.....

My question would be: is the 420nm needed (for coral growth)? Or is it just for visual appeal?
 
Here's a reference table:


And little more for those on the "graphic-oriented" side:


:fun4:Now, the research questions for this would be: What are Carotenoids vs Primary Pigments, and Do the multiple absorption peaks indicate a light requirement or an ability to use such for said purpose(s)?

(Hint for newbie2014: 420nm is one of the "needed" frequencies for best growth)

:rollface:Now, "How to build an LED (or any lighting system) for coral or other photosynthetic organisms"
1. Research their lighting requirements for what it takes to keep them alive, healthy, and growing.:love2:
2. Research ways to meet those requirements.:rolleyes:
3. Build according to those requirements first, and then to "I like the Windex look" or "I'd rather a bit more red to match divan" or some such. :cool:



Cheers,
Ray
 
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Here's a reference table:


And little more for those on the "graphic-oriented" side:


:fun4:Now, the research questions for this would be: What are Carotenoids vs Primary Pigments, and Do the multiple absorption peaks indicate a light requirement or an ability to use such for said purpose(s)?

(Hint for newbie2014: 420nm is one of the "needed" frequencies for best growth)

Understood. I've seen similar data to that chart before.

But, doesn't white LED, like the replaced 3500K diodes, contain all of those spectrum??? So, why do we need even more of the 420nm or any other blue spectrum? Is there a particular ratio of white:blue that is desirable (for whatever reasons) for reefers?

I'm thinking of replacing those diodes, too, and even a few green and red. But I don't want to go through all that for no reason other than to make the tank look "desirably blue".
 
I'm thinking about ordering some of these LED lights. My tank is 72 x 24 x 24 and 180 gallons. I'm undecided on 3 165watt units or 2 300watt units. I am thinking that the 3 165watt units will look better over tank and from what I can see light strength is not an issue with most people turning them down if anything. Any thoughts/advice?
 
Just ordered two 165w's due to this thread. My wife is going to kill me... Hopefully these do well over my 90 gallon.
 
ok, so a quick comparison question...


for a 40B, I currently have a Odyssea fixture modded, it has a single 250w DE Phoenix 14k on digital Icecap ballast and 2 T5HO Actinic (tank not yet running) what is it better of the following?

1; 1x Mars Aqua 165w without optics for what I read so far
2; 1x Mars Aqua 300w
3; keep the Metal Halide/T5 combo

the tank will be for SPS
 
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Just ordered 3 of the 165watt. Looking forward to them arriving now and 2 Jebao RW15's also. Couldn't resist. I'm going to be getting dirty looks for rest of month.
 
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