Meanwell LDD driver: for those who want to dim to 0 using Arduino
- Thread starter pwreef
- Start date
Yeah- the Typhon's a neat little controller. I started following the thread the minute DWZM posted it. The original Typhon was designed to be easy for anyone to build, as it was made with all through hole components. i'd already started building SMD CAT4101 based led drivers so using the Typhon to control them was the perfect solution.
Since the CAT's only need a 5V pwm signal to dim, all the 10V components on the Typhon were not needed, so I ditched them and redesigned the whole thing to be constructed from mostly SMD components.The original Typhon uses the Atmega 328-PU. I build my version using the Atmega 328-AU, as I'm now able to buy "raw" chips for cheap and "burn-in" the optiboot bootloader myself :bounce1:whooo Hooo!. Mouser and other suppliers sell the chips for around $2 each, so stocking up on them doesn't cost an "arm & leg" anymore.
I designed this version of the Typhon to plugin directly to the LDD sub Pcb. It's similar to the Arduino Shield idea, in that both boards will connect through a .1" spaced pin header. PWM signals travel through the 4 connected pins and grounds will be shared via brass stand-offs on each corner. I've got another Pcb designed and built that utilizes the LM3409 as the led driver. It also mates with this version of the Typhon. The only downside that I found with that I've got some cooling issues to sort out.:lol2:
Yes- pretty much. The Typhon was designed to control 4 independent channels from the very start, so I just snuggled up 4 LDD's onto a sub board to make it a complete package.
My guess is that this design approach would be great for smaller tank hoods or in other places where tight spaces require the components to be packaged close together.
It is very cool wish I could do some thing like that would make a board with the arduino built in and have all the temp and other stuff built on to the board so only one board to use not a bunch of break outs for SD or RTC or Ph stamps everything in one abs box just have to solder up the board to external plugs so you can plug and play basically. but then you have to be able to solder on all the surface mount chips. Can't do that either.
Skinnysloth
New member
Ok- I reworked the connections to use 2 position screw terminals that can be purchased dirt cheap on FleaBay. You'll need 10 per board but they can be had for less than 25 cents each. Just look for 2 position screw terminals w/3.5mm spacing. Here' the PCB and the files needed for production at ITead are attached.
I got my boards today. I wanted to thank you again for making this available. There was just one small issue that doesn't affect the function of the boards. You can see the +/- along with the numbers are not aligned correctly. I'm not sure why it happened, but just letting you know that it did. Also the drivers needed to be mounted 'upside-down.' I personally am not bothered by it, but maybe some people with ocd might.
Well at least they'll be functional. I suspect that ITead has a problem with their CAM file, with regards to the silkscreen layer. I noticed a similar defect on my last board order, but it wasn't as dramatic as this screw-up. I might just have to submit my order for the same board using Seeedstudio's CAM file and see if that makes a difference.
The silkscreen problem is due to using the wrong settings in Eagle.
I've had this problem in the past as well.
Read the Sparkfun tutorial on using Eagle and you will find everything you need to make successful silkscreen. Look under "Always use vector font" in this tutorial. http://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/109
I used National Instruments Ultiboard for years before moving to Eagle this year for my hobby work and had this same issue with a $400 pcb order.
I fixed it according to the Sparkfun tutorial and reordered, perfect silk now.
"Viewplot" is also an excellent tool for reviewing your layers individually before sending the files to the pcb house.
I've had this problem in the past as well.
Read the Sparkfun tutorial on using Eagle and you will find everything you need to make successful silkscreen. Look under "Always use vector font" in this tutorial. http://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/109
I used National Instruments Ultiboard for years before moving to Eagle this year for my hobby work and had this same issue with a $400 pcb order.
I fixed it according to the Sparkfun tutorial and reordered, perfect silk now.
"Viewplot" is also an excellent tool for reviewing your layers individually before sending the files to the pcb house.
Thanks for the info- I'd never seen this problem with the silkscreen layer until recently. I figured out what caused the problem. It was me! I recently upgraded from the "lite" version of EAGLE to the full blown "professional version 6.3"and forgot to adjust some of UI settings.
I'll go back in to the PCB files, make the fixes, and repost them with the corrected Gerber files ASAP.
Ok- I can't go back and edit my original post, so here goes-
I revised the silkscreen layer and reworked a couple of connections on the PCB, but those changes won't affect the functionality of the original pcb. Here's a new image of the 5Up LDD-H and the appropriate build files are attached.
I revised the silkscreen layer and reworked a couple of connections on the PCB, but those changes won't affect the functionality of the original pcb. Here's a new image of the 5Up LDD-H and the appropriate build files are attached.
rrasco
Active member
I always use viewplot to check my files. I'm so paranoid something will come out wrong I stare at them for hours. OCD? Not at all.
O2, I've been using the atmega328 with the bootloader for now. The only thing my board doesn't have is a programming interface, so you have to swap the chips. Not a problem for me, but others without spare controllers maybe so. I was going for cheap so I can convert all my tanks to LEDs.
O2, I've been using the atmega328 with the bootloader for now. The only thing my board doesn't have is a programming interface, so you have to swap the chips. Not a problem for me, but others without spare controllers maybe so. I was going for cheap so I can convert all my tanks to LEDs.
LOL Normally I'm the one to discover my own screw ups because I don't release pcb design files until I've produced a few first. Live and learn I guess! Where is this view plot program that you mentioned ? Is it in EAGLE? or is it another stand alone GERBER file viewer? It would be nice to have in order to avoid screw ups in the future.
If you're going to be building a lot of controllers using the Atmega328, and want to save a few $$, I have something for you-
It's an Arduino shield that will enable you to burn bootloaders to "raw" chips using your arduino. The shield also allows you to upload your "sketch" using a FTDI adapter. I made the shield to be compatible with both the DIP28 and TQFP versions of the Atmega 328. If you'd like one-r-two, send me a PM with your address and I'll drop them in the mail for you.
rrasco
Active member
That's why I try to keep quiet about projects until I know they work. No worries though, I don't think either of us used these boards we posted in this thread.
Viewplot is a different program. It's viewer is free though.
http://www.viewplot.com/
I'll shoot you a PM about the bootloader shield.
Viewplot is a different program. It's viewer is free though.
http://www.viewplot.com/
I'll shoot you a PM about the bootloader shield.
O2Surplus - thanks for the board design, I am placing my order tonight. Do we tick the 'Open Source' box when placing the order??
For your information, the LDD drivers are not readily available in Australia but there is a couple of places that are stocking them. All of the versions are currently available although one place is charging a bit more than they should
For your information, the LDD drivers are not readily available in Australia but there is a couple of places that are stocking them. All of the versions are currently available although one place is charging a bit more than they should
O2Surplus - thanks for the board design, I am placing my order tonight. Do we tick the 'Open Source' box when placing the order??
For your information, the LDD drivers are not readily available in Australia but there is a couple of places that are stocking them. All of the versions are currently available although one place is charging a bit more than they should
The Open source "option" is really just a gimmick IMHO. If you select the option, IteadStudios will send you some random Pcbs from other peoples orders. It sounds like fun in theory, but there's no documentation available for the boards that you receive. I received 3 small Pcb's with NO silkscreen lettering at all to indicate a part # or value, so I have no idea what the heck they're used for.LOL
