Meanwell LDD driver: for those who want to dim to 0 using Arduino
- Thread starter pwreef
- Start date
Understood, I just thought "Open source of supply" was funny.
What they are probably doing is just getting rid of excess parts or something. Reminds me of the time the Stainless Steel Rat got rid of garbage during a strike by mailing it (postal service is free for the government).
== John ==
What they are probably doing is just getting rid of excess parts or something. Reminds me of the time the Stainless Steel Rat got rid of garbage during a strike by mailing it (postal service is free for the government).
== John ==
The type or design of the driver is more of a determining factor for true high resolution dimming performance than the PWM signal. The more common ELN series driver will not dim below a 10% duty cycle no matter what PWM frequency is used.
nemosworld
Active member
placed an order for 2 ldd1000h last night as i saw 2 available on powergate.
but then i check back on the site after my order was complete and did not see the qty reduced, so i expected a call today which i did get.
I was told they are bringing in a 1000+ of both the 1000h and the 700h in february.
Just FYI for anyone looking to buy.
but then i check back on the site after my order was complete and did not see the qty reduced, so i expected a call today which i did get.
I was told they are bringing in a 1000+ of both the 1000h and the 700h in february.
Just FYI for anyone looking to buy.
ONLY 1000? Dang! I bet they'll be back on "backorder" within a week. LOL
iced98lx
New member
Lets just say I already have my order of 8 more 700's in so they get sent out as soon as they get in!!
LOL- I ordered another 10 LDD-700H to go along with my original order of 20 LDD-1000H, just so I'm not caught wanting more. I figure it's best to jump in now and grab a few before they disappear again.
MrClean
Active member
OK. I'm ready to play. I just want to condense and confirm the info.
I plan on underdriving multichips with forward voltages of 30-36v and 3.5A max. I will probably have 2 or 3. I will be controlling with a Typhon. I also want to run some fans (5v) for heat sinks and a fan for the cabinet (12v). I want to do this with 1 power cord going to the cabinet.
Other than my LEDs, I'll need:
-a 36v power supply with at least 3.5A. 3A for the LEDs plus a little for the fans and controller.
-step down modules to provide the correct voltage to the fans and the Typhon
-an LDD-1000H for each string
It can't be that simple, can it?
I plan on underdriving multichips with forward voltages of 30-36v and 3.5A max. I will probably have 2 or 3. I will be controlling with a Typhon. I also want to run some fans (5v) for heat sinks and a fan for the cabinet (12v). I want to do this with 1 power cord going to the cabinet.
Other than my LEDs, I'll need:
-a 36v power supply with at least 3.5A. 3A for the LEDs plus a little for the fans and controller.
-step down modules to provide the correct voltage to the fans and the Typhon
-an LDD-1000H for each string
It can't be that simple, can it?
MrClean
Active member
Thanks zachts.
And not to play favorites, thanks to O2Surplus for answering my other question.
I was going to oversize the PS for future use anyway; I'll add even more. I think there is a 10A amp one at work in the throw-away pile. Doink!
So does anyone have a board? And terminals? Drop me a PM.
Now to figure out how to stuff this into my canopy.
And not to play favorites, thanks to O2Surplus for answering my other question.
I was going to oversize the PS for future use anyway; I'll add even more. I think there is a 10A amp one at work in the throw-away pile. Doink!
So does anyone have a board? And terminals? Drop me a PM.
Now to figure out how to stuff this into my canopy.
Last edited:
Neoferdina
New member
Hey guys,
First of all, Awesome discussion and great work by rrasco and O2Surplus! I've been creepin' around this thread quietly for some time now and thought I'd chime in.
rrasco and O2: What about connecting the CTRL/PWM pin of the driver to the ground plane via an optional 10K pull-down resistor? This will pull the pin voltage to ground if the PWM signal is ever lost, which will prevent the driver from failing high (and will instead fail off)? Basically you just need to create a trace with a spot for a resistor to connect to the ground plane. For people without controllers you'd just leave this spot empty; for people with controllers, adding a 10K resistor will add at most 1mA draw per PWM signal to your controller and have the added safety of having the lights fail off.
Just you wait until you're on vacation and the fishsitter accidentally tugs on the PWM cable and you come home to find your LEDs have been on at 100% for a week straight! A few $0.02 resistors could save you thousands in livestock.
My other question to the community: Does anyone have an extra 4-up LDD-H 10cmx5cm board that they could part with? Please PM me if you do! I just need one.
Cheers,
Kevin
First of all, Awesome discussion and great work by rrasco and O2Surplus! I've been creepin' around this thread quietly for some time now and thought I'd chime in.
rrasco and O2: What about connecting the CTRL/PWM pin of the driver to the ground plane via an optional 10K pull-down resistor? This will pull the pin voltage to ground if the PWM signal is ever lost, which will prevent the driver from failing high (and will instead fail off)? Basically you just need to create a trace with a spot for a resistor to connect to the ground plane. For people without controllers you'd just leave this spot empty; for people with controllers, adding a 10K resistor will add at most 1mA draw per PWM signal to your controller and have the added safety of having the lights fail off.
Just you wait until you're on vacation and the fishsitter accidentally tugs on the PWM cable and you come home to find your LEDs have been on at 100% for a week straight! A few $0.02 resistors could save you thousands in livestock.
My other question to the community: Does anyone have an extra 4-up LDD-H 10cmx5cm board that they could part with? Please PM me if you do! I just need one.
Cheers,
Kevin
Haha.. I just spent an amount of time I don't want to think about learning to use eagle, and I took your suggestion on my my PCB. I made basically a version of O2Surplus' 5 x LDD board but this one is made for qty 10 in a 5 x 2 configuration for 5 channels at up to 1400ma.
On a side note, I hate the guys who designed the eagle interface just as much as they obviously hate their users.
I'd be happy to put the files up but I have not done any silkscreen labels or so, and I dread learning how.. Wish me luck!
Luck Tom....still using the 8900?
007: Sure am! I'm working on a less expensive power supply option, obviously..
Have a question for you guys, which has probably already been covered in this thread, is there any concern about the PWM output nature of these LDD drivers causing bleaching even at low power levels, due to the emitters being driven at full power (though briefly)?
Have a question for you guys, which has probably already been covered in this thread, is there any concern about the PWM output nature of these LDD drivers causing bleaching even at low power levels, due to the emitters being driven at full power (though briefly)?
Neoferdina
New member
I'll spare you the elaborate technical explanation (I can go into the details if you wish) but: No, it's not an issue.
I have a question to everyone else using these drivers right now...
I know this has been asked a couple of times through out the thread but there hasn't really been a definitive answer:
Do these drivers run cool enough to be kept in an enclosure? Or is it necessary to add perforations to the enclosure lid?
I'm planning on integrating my PSU, driver and Typhon controller into one enclosure and ideally I would like to keep my set up water tight (after all it will be sitting right next to a lot of water). If you don't think that will fly, would adding perforations to the enclosure over the drivers suffice or do I need to add active cooling?
