Meanwell LDD driver: for those who want to dim to 0 using Arduino

Trying to figure out a problem. Finally got around to building my heat sinks and attaching all 60 deep red LED's. I wired the power supply (meanwell se-350-48v) v+/v- to rrasco board with 4 LDD700H drivers. Each driver has 15 LED's. I wired each LED set with LED+/LED- from the board. All the LED's come on! However, when I hook it up to that Jardunio it will not dim. I attached pin 7 (sump led's) to the PWM connection but I get nothing. I think it is the ground pin I am suppose to connect... but where do I connect that to for the drivers?

Here is what the user manual said on page 21. I have mine hooked up to pin 7 (sump/fuge)

The only wires you need to connect from the Jarduino to your drivers (and whatever other circuits your drivers may require) are a ground (GND) pin and the PWM pins for each respective color. You of course will need to power the LEDs, but for the sake of this manual, I will assume that you already know how or have figured out how from somewhere else. Without any modification to the Jarduino code, these are the Colors the Jarduino controls along with the respective Arduino Pin numbers:
"¢ Pin 7: SUMP/Refugium LED Light Fixture (White)
"¢ Pin 8: Regular Blue
"¢ Pin 9: White
"¢ Pin 10: Royal Blue
"¢ Pin 11: Red
"¢ Pin 12: UV
"¢ Pin 13: Moon Lights
Here is what the user manual said on page 21. I have mine hooked up to pin 7 (sump/fuge)

The only wires you need to connect from the Jarduino to your drivers (and whatever other circuits your drivers may require) are a ground (GND) pin and the PWM pins for each respective color. You of course will need to power the LEDs, but for the sake of this manual, I will assume that you already know how or have figured out how from somewhere else. Without any modification to the Jarduino code, these are the Colors the Jarduino controls along with the respective Arduino Pin numbers:
"¢ Pin 7: SUMP/Refugium LED Light Fixture (White)
"¢ Pin 8: Regular Blue
"¢ Pin 9: White
"¢ Pin 10: Royal Blue
"¢ Pin 11: Red
"¢ Pin 12: UV
"¢ Pin 13: Moon Lights
 
I thought you already had the GND connected. The GND on the Jarduino should hook into one of the -VIN terminals.
 
Trying to figure out a problem. Finally got around to building my heat sinks and attaching all 60 deep red LED's. I wired the power supply (meanwell se-350-48v) v+/v- to rrasco board with 4 LDD700H drivers. Each driver has 15 LED's. I wired each LED set with LED+/LED- from the board. All the LED's come on! However, when I hook it up to that Jardunio it will not dim. I attached pin 7 (sump led's) to the PWM connection but I get nothing. I think it is the ground pin I am suppose to connect... but where do I connect that to for the drivers?

Here is what the user manual said on page 21. I have mine hooked up to pin 7 (sump/fuge)

The only wires you need to connect from the Jarduino to your drivers (and whatever other circuits your drivers may require) are a ground (GND) pin and the PWM pins for each respective color. You of course will need to power the LEDs, but for the sake of this manual, I will assume that you already know how or have figured out how from somewhere else. Without any modification to the Jarduino code, these are the Colors the Jarduino controls along with the respective Arduino Pin numbers:
"¢ Pin 7: SUMP/Refugium LED Light Fixture (White)
"¢ Pin 8: Regular Blue
"¢ Pin 9: White
"¢ Pin 10: Royal Blue
"¢ Pin 11: Red
"¢ Pin 12: UV
"¢ Pin 13: Moon Lights
Here is what the user manual said on page 21. I have mine hooked up to pin 7 (sump/fuge)

The only wires you need to connect from the Jarduino to your drivers (and whatever other circuits your drivers may require) are a ground (GND) pin and the PWM pins for each respective color. You of course will need to power the LEDs, but for the sake of this manual, I will assume that you already know how or have figured out how from somewhere else. Without any modification to the Jarduino code, these are the Colors the Jarduino controls along with the respective Arduino Pin numbers:
"¢ Pin 7: SUMP/Refugium LED Light Fixture (White)
"¢ Pin 8: Regular Blue
"¢ Pin 9: White
"¢ Pin 10: Royal Blue
"¢ Pin 11: Red
"¢ Pin 12: UV
"¢ Pin 13: Moon Lights

i think you need to connect the ground pin on the ardunio the -vin on the drivers.
 
Oh, so any of the v- can be hooked up the ground on the arduino board. I have both positive and negative hooked up to the power supply.
 
So now i would like to order the "5up LDD-H" that O2SurPlus created at iteadstudio.
But the problem is i don't have an Arduino but a Profilux computer to control the LED lights. Since this has so much overlap, i am hoping to get some answers here and help others to.

Each LedControl4 has 4 output channels (meaning 4 drivers if i would like to dim them independently, right?)


Option 1:
I currently have the LedControl4Active which is left-over from my previous tank (this includes its own driver, but outputs PWM). According to this site; they state "LEDControl4Active doesn’t include a current controller, just the minus potential of the connected power supply is clocked through PWM!" Is there any way i could use this device on the LDD drivers? To be honest, i don't think so, right?


Option 2: (mainly due to contribution of anatoly.z)
I buy a new LedControl4Passive and add a 2 kOm resistor to the PWM signal output (i think 1,5 kOm will be ok as well) with 12 volts power source and a Zener diode (BZX55C5V6 - 5,6 volts). Since the LDD drivers need about 6 volts. The Zener would be connected to the ground and to the signal.


Option 3:
But since the output of the Profilux is already 0-10V i maybe could just add some more components to the board and have it all integrated without having to buy a new Profilux LedControl4?
In order to connect my aquariumcomputer i need to convert this 0-10v signal somehow to a stable PWM signal.
There is a graph of the correlation input voltage and PWM-output in the PDF.


What is your advise?
- Personally i think option 2 is the most viable option to go for.
- It would be even sweeter if 4x pullup resistor and 4x zener can added to the board, but i haven't made a single PCB in my life yet.
- Is there also a possibility to completely turn off the power supply (both the LED power supply and the Pullup power supply) if the PWM signal is 0?

A parts list would also be very welcome (since i would like to run my leds at around 750mA i think my best bet is to use 4x LDD-700H)
 
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Steve's LEDs has a board that concerts 4 channels of 0-10v into 4 channels of pwm. That might be a way to do option 3 easily for about $50 or $30 if you only need 2 channels.
 
So now i would like to order the "5up LDD-H" that O2SurPlus created at iteadstudio.
But the problem is i don't have an Arduino but a Profilux computer to control the LED lights. Since this has so much overlap, i am hoping to get some answers here and help others to.

Each LedControl4 has 4 output channels (meaning 4 drivers if i would like to dim them independently, right?)


Option 1:
I currently have the LedControl4Active which is left-over from my previous tank (this includes its own driver, but outputs PWM). According to this site; they state "LEDControl4Active doesn't include a current controller, just the minus potential of the connected power supply is clocked through PWM!" Is there any way i could use this device on the LDD drivers? To be honest, i don't think so, right?


Option 2: (mainly due to contribution of anatoly.z)
I buy a new LedControl4Passive and add a 2 kOm resistor to the PWM signal output (i think 1,5 kOm will be ok as well) with 12 volts power source and a Zener diode (BZX55C5V6 - 5,6 volts). Since the LDD drivers need about 6 volts. The Zener would be connected to the ground and to the signal.


Option 3:
But since the output of the Profilux is already 0-10V i maybe could just add some more components to the board and have it all integrated without having to buy a new Profilux LedControl4?
In order to connect my aquariumcomputer i need to convert this 0-10v signal somehow to a stable PWM signal.
There is a graph of the correlation input voltage and PWM-output in the PDF.


What is your advise?
- Personally i think option 2 is the most viable option to go for.
- It would be even sweeter if 4x pullup resistor and 4x zener can added to the board, but i haven't made a single PCB in my life yet.
- Is there also a possibility to completely turn off the power supply (both the LED power supply and the Pullup power supply) if the PWM signal is 0?

A parts list would also be very welcome (since i would like to run my leds at around 750mA i think my best bet is to use 4x LDD-700H)

From what I can tell, it looks like "Option two" could be made to work, but not without some modifications first. The MeanWell LDD drivers require a 5V PWM signal for dimming with 0% being "off"(0V) and 100% being "on"(5V). The LEDControl4Passive does not provide a 5V PWM signal, but a PWM'd minus/ 0V/ground signal only. You could wire it up like this and it should work. Just make sure to tie the 5V- and LDD Vin- together and there should be no problems.
ProfiluxampLDD_zpsa9aa4547.png


Would somebody else take a look at this and verify it's functionality please?
 
I don't think i understand your picture. If you look at page 2 of the manual, they add a pullup resistor to output PWM; but how would the 2 kOhm and Zener diode be fitting into this picture?
 
got the phone call today that power gate was sold out before I even placed my order there site still showed 58 in stock. I was told there website is manually updated and she told me she guessed no one had updated it yet. but she was nice about it and offered to fill the order in middle April
 
I don't think i understand your picture. If you look at page 2 of the manual, they add a pullup resistor to output PWM; but how would the 2 kOhm and Zener diode be fitting into this picture?


Ok, forget the diagram that I posted. It won't work and I can't go back and edit my post. Use the diagram in the manual. It will work. The 2k resistors are there to pull the 5V signal "high" and control the current from the 5V source when the transistors pull it "low". The transistors would be damaged from over current if the resistors were not there. The Zener diode that you mentioned is probably being used as a voltage regulator for a 12V source. I'd recommend using a 5V source and tossing the zener and 12V supply.
The Meanwell LDD's seems to pull about 5ma on the PWM pin on average. I'd use a 1k ohm resistor with the 5V source, as that will provide the 5ma for the LDD. I hope that answers your question.
 
I talked to a couple different people at powergate and they both reccomended that i call and verify stock before placing orders. They told me it would be mid march before I would have the 1000's. I eneded up biting the bullet and ordering from mouser.
 
Apparently in a couple of weeks one of the DIY LED sellers who was banned from RC at some point in the past who's name I won't mention because this thread is too good to get locked has bought up huge quantities of the LDD-1000H and LDD-700H and will be offering them, dimming controllers, and 48V power supplies.

That's what they say on the Full Spectrum LED thread over at nano-reef. Might be a better option for people wanting them than Mouser if you can wait until mid February to see what they come up with.
 
got the phone call today that power gate was sold out before I even placed my order there site still showed 58 in stock. I was told there website is manually updated and she told me she guessed no one had updated it yet. but she was nice about it and offered to fill the order in middle April
Glad I with held ordering, and I call complete BS on that explanation from them too, because they're still not showing 0 in stock, which they should if they can't get your order done until April.
 
Apparently in a couple of weeks one of the DIY LED sellers who was banned from RC at some point in the past who's name I won't mention because this thread is too good to get locked has bought up huge quantities of the LDD-1000H and LDD-700H and will be offering them, dimming controllers, and 48V power supplies.

Clay-boa? :D

I'm curious why there was such a run on these drivers, surely it couldn't just be us DIY hobbyist.
 
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