Meanwell LDD driver: for those who want to dim to 0 using Arduino
- Thread starter pwreef
- Start date
I think someone was taking notes on O2's design,...even has pulldown resistors.
I don't think O2Surplus came up with the pulldown resistors. Someone else did maybe around page 45-47 or so. O2Surplus did come up with the jumpers to allow you to select to use the pulldown resistors or not, though, as far as I know.
speedpacer
New member
I have a couple questions for those of you experienced with Arduinos and the LDD drivers...
I started my LED build a few years ago, they set in boxes for about a year, and then I spent a few weekends trying to get them to work and ran into various issues, put them back in the boxes, and now several months later I'm trying to get them finished and I see that the LDD drivers are the new in-thing.
I'm using an Arduino 2560, 132 Cree's X-P/E/G LEDs total, divided up by 7 Mean Well ELN 60-48P drivers. I have 4 "daylight" drivers, which are a combo of 24 blues and whites ran in parallel like so:
http://reefledlights.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/Led-Lights-Chart-2-lines-12-small.jpg
Then I have 12 High Noons, 12 Violets, and 12 Moonlights.
I used the circuit diagram below:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-...Q_kghOY0/s800/arduino%2Btransistor_simple.jpg
I also added a 10V regulator and powered it with a 12V power adapter from Radio Shack.
As I mentioned, I ran into a few problems. The first 3 daylight drivers were fine and then I hooked up the High Noons and Moonlights, no problems, but then after the Violets, I started having problems, mainly the Violets would never completely go off and the 4th daylight driver wouldn't come on. If I measure resistance across the LEDs, everything looks normal except for some crazy numbers on the violets, the same on each of them. I've tried swapping the drivers but had the same problem.
Of course, like everyone else, I was unhappy with the dimming limits, so I've decided to go with the LDDs over my main display and use the ELNs for my frag tanks, which brings me to my questions...
Would I still wire the LDDs up the same? I read through most (not all) of this post and I see that it's recommended to use transistors so is the above wiring diagram still applicable in this case?
Also, will I still be able to run the 24 daylights in parallel with there being a 1000ma limit on the LDD-Hs, or will they be fine at 500ma? I probably overdid the number of LEDs anyway (it's a 100gal) so I'm guessing it won't be a problem...
Sorry for the lengthy post, just want to make sure I don't leave anything important out. I'm not completely ignorant when it comes to electronics but my last electronics class was 15 years ago and I've been dealing strictly with software since then!
I started my LED build a few years ago, they set in boxes for about a year, and then I spent a few weekends trying to get them to work and ran into various issues, put them back in the boxes, and now several months later I'm trying to get them finished and I see that the LDD drivers are the new in-thing.
I'm using an Arduino 2560, 132 Cree's X-P/E/G LEDs total, divided up by 7 Mean Well ELN 60-48P drivers. I have 4 "daylight" drivers, which are a combo of 24 blues and whites ran in parallel like so:
http://reefledlights.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/Led-Lights-Chart-2-lines-12-small.jpg
Then I have 12 High Noons, 12 Violets, and 12 Moonlights.
I used the circuit diagram below:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-...Q_kghOY0/s800/arduino%2Btransistor_simple.jpg
I also added a 10V regulator and powered it with a 12V power adapter from Radio Shack.
As I mentioned, I ran into a few problems. The first 3 daylight drivers were fine and then I hooked up the High Noons and Moonlights, no problems, but then after the Violets, I started having problems, mainly the Violets would never completely go off and the 4th daylight driver wouldn't come on. If I measure resistance across the LEDs, everything looks normal except for some crazy numbers on the violets, the same on each of them. I've tried swapping the drivers but had the same problem.
Of course, like everyone else, I was unhappy with the dimming limits, so I've decided to go with the LDDs over my main display and use the ELNs for my frag tanks, which brings me to my questions...
Would I still wire the LDDs up the same? I read through most (not all) of this post and I see that it's recommended to use transistors so is the above wiring diagram still applicable in this case?
Also, will I still be able to run the 24 daylights in parallel with there being a 1000ma limit on the LDD-Hs, or will they be fine at 500ma? I probably overdid the number of LEDs anyway (it's a 100gal) so I'm guessing it won't be a problem...
Sorry for the lengthy post, just want to make sure I don't leave anything important out. I'm not completely ignorant when it comes to electronics but my last electronics class was 15 years ago and I've been dealing strictly with software since then!
Sacohen
New member
No. You are right at $11.99 each I agree. They are also selling 4, 3 and 2 Up boards as well at $2 less per board.
joshlawless
New member
So I've cornered the market on 6-up boards? Mwa ha ha ha! :smokin:
joshlawless
New member
Hey, I only need 8 of the 6-up boards. I'm not crazy, or anything. 
Hey, I only need 8 of the 6-up boards. I'm not crazy, or anything.
Nah- 48 LDD's ain't crazy :uhoh3:. Josh needs that many for his "coral bleaching machine" ahem- "tank". Yeah....... what's the word? - aquarium, that's it!
:lolspin:
joshlawless
New member
Well, it is 40 inches deep. And I might want to put a bunch of clams in the sand...
I dont know the guy selling the boards, but his controller sure is nice, and cheap.
I suspect he is selling those boards more as a convenience for folks that are doing DIY builds who dont want to mess around with gerber files and chinese shipping and dealing with finding takers for extra boards than as a money maker. Plus for what he charges you get the other parts needed to solder it on like terminal blocks, etc.
I suspect he is selling those boards more as a convenience for folks that are doing DIY builds who dont want to mess around with gerber files and chinese shipping and dealing with finding takers for extra boards than as a money maker. Plus for what he charges you get the other parts needed to solder it on like terminal blocks, etc.
nemosworld
Active member
he actually had a build thread on here before the site went live and the thread got shot down, several people beta tested them, including me.
just out of curiosity, did anyone ask 02 if he designed or allowed the vendor in question to produce these boards with his permission?
I know 02 has designed a few diff designs for a vendor or two, don't know which ones though.
I didn't ask him, but I know O2 is aware of the guy and his controller. They aren't actually his boards, that I can see, so I don't think he would require permission. Looks like the guy has his own board that he has had printed and is selling. It just uses the same principles as many in this thread, but it doesn't look exactly like any shared here.
one clownfish
Member
Exactly- That's "Bacon Biter's" website and I'm sure those PcB's are of his own design. I'm sure that he provides them for customers as a convenience, just like every other item he sells. What DIY LED product seller wouldn't? It's just good for business. He builds an awesome led controller that I'm really proud of, as I had a tiny little hand in helping him with it's development.
As far as I'm concerned- any idea, design, or what not that I post on the Forum is free for the taking. That's what this forum is for- acquiring knowledge without the high cost of tuition. LOL
