nemosworld
Active member
And with that, i say this subject is closed.
Meanwell LDD driver: for those who want to dim to 0 using Arduino
- Thread starter pwreef
- Start date
And with that, i say this subject is closed.
nemosworld
Active member
ldd-1000h has a max vf of 52, if you plan to run the leds at 350ma then you would divide 3.4v by 52, but I would not run a led rated for 350ma on a 1000ma driver. what led are you talking about, sounds like a Chinese led (bridgelux, etc) cree has lower vf ratings.
you need to know the max forward voltage of the led and the max amperage (MA)
then we can better help you.
you need to know the max forward voltage of the led and the max amperage (MA)
then we can better help you.
The answer really depends on the Vf of your leds @ 1000ma(not 350ma) and the output voltage of your power supply. The Led's Vf tends to rise a bit at higher drive currents, so for the sake of argument, let's say your leds have a Vf of 3.5V @ 1000ma and you're using a 48V supply.
48V/3.5V = 13 leds per string.
Sacohen
New member
This particular one was a Cree LED.
Product Description
Cree XP-E Green
Min. Luminus flux 107lm @350mA
Wavelength 520nm - 535nm
Max. Forward Current 1000mA
Forward Voltage 3.4V @350mA
Part Number XPEGRN-L1-0000-00D01
Cree XTE datasheet
http://www.aquastyleonline.com/products/Cree-XPE-Green.html
Or even this Philips Luxeon ES that states- Forward Voltage is 3.27V @ 700ma - Max current - 1000ma on Steve's LED
Product Description
Cree XP-E Green
Min. Luminus flux 107lm @350mA
Wavelength 520nm - 535nm
Max. Forward Current 1000mA
Forward Voltage 3.4V @350mA
Part Number XPEGRN-L1-0000-00D01
Cree XTE datasheet
http://www.aquastyleonline.com/products/Cree-XPE-Green.html
Or even this Philips Luxeon ES that states- Forward Voltage is 3.27V @ 700ma - Max current - 1000ma on Steve's LED
anyone else having problems with the ldd-1000h's getting too hot? I've burnt out 3 or 4 now from getting hot. I was going to mount them in an enclosure but I haven't even gotten that far yet. I don't have a fan on them but they are just mounted to the 4up boards out in the open. Kind of frustrating, they are running at about 70-80%.
Nope- no problems with any of mine. Maybe If you post some photos and specs for your set up, we might be able to spot the problem?
Mine dont get hot at all, no matter what power level I run them at. What is your input voltage and how many leds do you have on the output?
Ive got a meanwell 48 volt 21 amp power supply feeding the ldds. All leds are cree from rapidled, not the new high power ones. Ive got 30 whites running off 3 ldd-1000s, so 10 leds per driver. Ive got 30 royal blue set up same way as whites. Ive got 10 blue on one ldd-1000, 8 red on one ldd-700, 6 green on one ldd-700, 6 uv on one 700, and 6 moonlights on one ldd-350. Its only the drivers for the white and blue getting warm/hot. I can hold my finger on there but its hot enough that it is killing them. Ive only had it all up and running a few days.
nemosworld
Active member
@1000ma (1amp) that cree led is 3.8v
with a 48v power supply, you are looking at 12 max, per ldd 1000H
You should not be having any problems with this setup - where did you buy the LDD's. How are the LED's wired up ?
shark boy
New member
I too have burnt up 4 LDDs
3 LDD-700L and 1 LDD-1000H
The magic smoke came out of the 1000 from a small hole in the middle of the LDD (funny, I didn't notice the hole untill after the smoke came out :>) )
Mine always got a little warm, my Recons get hot and have for a couple years now with no problems.
I still use the power supply with no other problems.
Can't expect perfect!!!!!
shark
3 LDD-700L and 1 LDD-1000H
The magic smoke came out of the 1000 from a small hole in the middle of the LDD (funny, I didn't notice the hole untill after the smoke came out :>) )
Mine always got a little warm, my Recons get hot and have for a couple years now with no problems.
I still use the power supply with no other problems.
Can't expect perfect!!!!!
shark
Sacohen
New member
Thanks Felix. It gets very confusing. So how did you get that it's 3.8v at 1amp, from the data sheet or was there a calculation that you did to figure it out?
I have a question about adding pulldown resistor to a 4 up board not designed for them. I have done a little experimenting w/o bringing the smoke, but want to clarify.
The input side has two V+ and two V- and four PWM terminals. What are the second set of V+V- for? adding more PcBs in series? Do you need them if you only run one board? I noticed my power supply also has 2 terminals for + and - (com).
When I soldered the resistor on the backside of the board from a driver's PWM pin to the V- pin from the green terminal block it worked. No lights with no PWM signal. Do I solder all 4 resisters into one V- terminal? Or am I doing it wrong? Missing something?
The input side has two V+ and two V- and four PWM terminals. What are the second set of V+V- for? adding more PcBs in series? Do you need them if you only run one board? I noticed my power supply also has 2 terminals for + and - (com).
When I soldered the resistor on the backside of the board from a driver's PWM pin to the V- pin from the green terminal block it worked. No lights with no PWM signal. Do I solder all 4 resisters into one V- terminal? Or am I doing it wrong? Missing something?
Sounds like you know what you're doing and you should be fine. No idea why they would be burning out. Finger hot shouldn't kill them, though. If you can hold your finger on there it must be less than 150 degrees F, and according to the spec sheet they don't start derating until around 160 degrees F for the high powered ones and even higher for the low powered ones.
Not sure how you'd file a claim, but Meanwell does offer a 3 year warranty on them.
V- should just go to the ground plane of the board, so all of them are equivalent. Depending on the board config you can even scratch off a little of the green and solder the resistor right to the ground plane next to the PWM pin on the back. The multiple V+ and V- inputs are just for convenience. I ended up using some of the extra V- terminals when I needed to tie various things to the same common ground. I didn't use the extra V+ on the boards I set up.
If you aren't exceeding the total current rating for your hookup wire, I think you could probably use them for running multiple boards in series, though. Hadn't thought of that use.
nemosworld
Active member
it was on the data sheet you linked.
