Meanwell LDD driver: for those who want to dim to 0 using Arduino

He had a few of them completely built and I bought one from him, pm him, he may have more, even some with a Ldd board attached.

Side note: I powered up my ldd's to see if I got the wiring to the power supply and my step down correct, power came on and then one ldd 1000h starting smoking, checked solder and nothing wrong there, I think I got a bad one. Time to order back ups, next test will be connecting the controller and a few LEDs.
 
nemosworld said:
He had a few of them completely built and I bought one from him, pm him, he may have more, even some with a Ldd board attached.

Side note: I powered up my ldd's to see if I got the wiring to the power supply and my step down correct, power came on and then one ldd 1000h starting smoking, checked solder and nothing wrong there, I think I got a bad one. Time to order back ups, next test will be connecting the controller and a few LEDs.
Click to expand...


Hey- I'm glad to hear that you like the controller! If it makes it any easier for you to build an enclosure- you can always remote mount the LCD and the buttons. The LCD is connected to the main PcB using a couple of Arduino pin headers, so it can be relocated using male/ female jumper wires, if needed. The buttons on the PcB can also by bypassed by replacing them with panel mount momentary switches and a few short wires.
Just my .02
 
nemosworld said:
02, do you have a simple connection guide, just want to make sure I connect it right.
Click to expand...


How's this? You really only need one ground (PWM Negative) connection per LDD PcB. Use a power supply of 9V -12V for powering the controller and you'll be fine.

DSC_3333-M_zpsb06b03c3.jpg
 
nemosworld said:
Side note: I powered up my ldd's to see if I got the wiring to the power supply and my step down correct, power came on and then one ldd 1000h starting smoking, checked solder and nothing wrong there, I think I got a bad one. Time to order back ups, next test will be connecting the controller and a few LEDs.
Click to expand...

I suggest you check all of your wiring before thinking you have a 'bad one' - I have not heard of any others letting out smoke when wired correctly :)

Please don't take this the wrong way - I just think it is more likely to be you rather than the LDD.
 
O2Surplus said:
How's this? You really only need one ground (PWM Negative) connection per LDD PcB. Use a power supply of 9V -12V for powering the controller and you'll be fine.

DSC_3333-M_zpsb06b03c3.jpg
Click to expand...
Thank you sir!

MagicJ said:
I suggest you check all of your wiring before thinking you have a 'bad one' - I have not heard of any others letting out smoke when wired correctly :)

Please don't take this the wrong way - I just think it is more likely to be you rather than the LDD.
Click to expand...
No offense taking, going to look over everything today.
DSC_3300-M.jpg

Black is negative, green and blue positive.
DSC_3302-M.jpg
 
MagicJ said:
I suggest you check all of your wiring before thinking you have a 'bad one' - I have not heard of any others letting out smoke when wired correctly :)

Please don't take this the wrong way - I just think it is more likely to be you rather than the LDD.
Click to expand...

after checking it again, and really getting a heads up from a buddy that suffered the same faith as me, it turns out it was my wiring, i had the pwm connected to the power supply. simple over sight, got it working now, still have to replace that one driver. also got the controller hooked up to my step down and it worked out great. had to steal the plug from a portable cheap cordless screw driver my wife had to hook up the controller.

so now i will order another 1000h and get it replaced and then start hooking up and ordering leds.

once again thanks to the OP for this thread, thanks to RRasco for the pcb that i am using, 02surplus for the countless contribution and the typhon that i am using.
 
O2Surplus said:
Good question- Start here-http://imall.iteadstudio.com/

1.) select the 10 x 10cm size PcB option for this particular PcB.
2.) choose a thickness. I go for the thickest "free" option available.
3) Choose a surface finish- Go with what ever the "free" option is.( let somebody else pay to save the planet. Lol)
4. Choose a color, again going with "Green" is free. Other colors are going to cost add'l money.
5.) submit payment(make sure to pay for expedited shipping. YOU don't want to be THAT GUY who's still waiting a month later for his PcB's to ship. Do You?) and wait for the confirmation Email that lists your Order #.
6.) Rename the zip folder marked "GERBER FILES for Itead" to include your Order # and Email it to ITead.
7.) Sit back and wait. If everything goes according to plan, you should receive your PcB's in 10 - 14 days.
:beer:
Click to expand...

Can Confirm Orded these on the 1st May Got a email today saying order Done
Now lets see how long they take Airmail to The UK :)

Thanks again O2Surplus :)
 
I love these drivers and I love the controller that o2 has put together. I'm sure this is normal but I just wanted to ask anyways. Is it normal for the drivers to get hot? Not scolding hot but they definitely get quite warm when I start pushing them at like 60+ %
 
CrazyEyes said:
I love these drivers and I love the controller that o2 has put together. I'm sure this is normal but I just wanted to ask anyways. Is it normal for the drivers to get hot? Not scolding hot but they definitely get quite warm when I start pushing them at like 60+ %
Click to expand...


I'd say- don't worry about the heat. If you can put your hand on them for any length of time, then they're not too hot. From the product PDF it states- "cooled by free air convection". You gotta have some heat to get convection. LOL
 
CrazyEyes said:
I love these drivers and I love the controller that o2 has put together. I'm sure this is normal but I just wanted to ask anyways. Is it normal for the drivers to get hot? Not scolding hot but they definitely get quite warm when I start pushing them at like 60+ %
Click to expand...

I ran a test burn on my setup, full spectrum with 500's, 600's, and 1000's.

After an hour at 100% the 1000's were very warm, but I could still rest my hand on top of them. I don't figure they'll get much warmer than that.

Since I just happen to have an extra fan lying around I'm going to incorporate it at a low speed to assist in the convection.
 
Yeah good call on the fan, I never plan on running of these at 100% although I'm sure I could run the Royal blues and whites driver at 100% and still the LED would only be at 66-67% right since there max mA is 1500. Does anyone what the MeanWell ELN-60-48's max mA is? They say from 0-1.3A so I take it 1300mA? But the ELN-60-27 say 0-2.3A so are those ones 2300mA?
 
Itead has apologized for the mistake and says they will ship my order in 5-7 days. That will put delivery time at 6 weeks :(
 
CrazyEyes said:
Yeah good call on the fan, I never plan on running of these at 100% although I'm sure I could run the Royal blues and whites driver at 100% and still the LED would only be at 66-67% right since there max mA is 1500. Does anyone what the MeanWell ELN-60-48's max mA is? They say from 0-1.3A so I take it 1300mA? But the ELN-60-27 say 0-2.3A so are those ones 2300mA?
Click to expand...

You are correct. Just to add a bit more ...

Ohm's Law tells us that Power (watts) = Voltage (Volts) x Current (Amps) or Current = Power / Voltage

So, for the 60-48 i.e. 60 watts and 48 volts ie Current = 60/48 = 1.25 amps
and for the 60-27 ie Current = 60/27 = 2.2 amps.

It's been a while since I looked at the datasheets for these drivers but, from memory, they can actually be pushed a bit above the stated voltage which would explain the slightly different current figures you have stated.

Cheers
 
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