Mike's 200g
- Thread starter MichaelW
- Start date
Flow is very important if not the most important thing but i think it has no direct affect in fixing dino. they grow in low flow or high flow it doesn't matter. I'm sure the reason why its growing in the frag area is because that playground even though connected still lack the rocks and sand that the display has which carries other things that are currently competing with the dinos.
another idea, since its still rather dormant in the main tank. Mike could consider removing the frags in the frag tank, then take the frag tank off line clean it dry it, After take right course of action in the main tank once the signs of dinos are gone for a few weeks you can then set the frag tank back up.
another idea, since its still rather dormant in the main tank. Mike could consider removing the frags in the frag tank, then take the frag tank off line clean it dry it, After take right course of action in the main tank once the signs of dinos are gone for a few weeks you can then set the frag tank back up.
Last edited:
joshky
Acros & Wrasses
Definitely looks similar to the dino outbreak I went through back in late 2015/early 2016, I had a terrible time keeping it off of my frags and because of that it did claim one of my acros. I completely eradicated it by adding major biodiversity (new LR from TBS), that was my savior, but perhaps a little drastic. I had tried multiple things, multi-pronged attacks etc. and nothing worked for me. Based on my personal research (based on anecdotal evidence), dinos thrive in a clean environment without much biodiversity to out-compete. Be sure to google "Dinoflagellates - dinos a possible cure!?", first result should yield a good read and maybe another solution, I haven't been keeping up.
MichaelW
New member
So I do think the drag tank has dino but in the display I am not so sure. Everything had been going just fine for ages and then suddenly this, and I believe really it coincided with a nutrient drop as many corals have paled. I don't think adding more gfo would really be the way to go as it was when I upped the amount of gfo I was using they seemed to suddenly go crazy.
Many places say to lower nutrients to starve it out but I don't see that being good for my corals in this situation.
My tank has been up a little while now so I would assume I have good biodiversity but could be wrong. However the drag tank has no rock or anything so could be onto something there why it's not the same in display.
Was actually in the process of setting up a larger drag tank as all had been going so well with the tank. It 2 was going to share water... Not sure if that's a good idea now though.
Many places say to lower nutrients to starve it out but I don't see that being good for my corals in this situation.
My tank has been up a little while now so I would assume I have good biodiversity but could be wrong. However the drag tank has no rock or anything so could be onto something there why it's not the same in display.
Was actually in the process of setting up a larger drag tank as all had been going so well with the tank. It 2 was going to share water... Not sure if that's a good idea now though.
Acronut
New member
Hi Michael, I love your tanks so much and hate to see it going through a hard time like this... So I write this for you but not sure if it is useful...I just went through exactly the same situation. I also used AF biotic salt with Bio S and NP and the same parameters as yours. I think in general that maybe the bacteria work so well and we don't have any more nutrient Or we have a so very low nutrient...too clean..? Anyway in short what I did was
1-treat the tank with SPS and fishes inside for 5 days total blackout. Keep a box or cardboard covers everywhere and the tank should be total black out/ very dark. Make sure there are space for air circulation !!! Without light or food. Yes, I was very afraid but somehow the fishes went to a long sleep and after 5 days everything was OK after. I saw almost no Dino after this.SPS were pale and fishes were very hungry. So light low and feed less for the first few days.
The important thing is your Radion program should have red and green light intensity about 12% or less only. As soon as these going up...you will see the strings and bubbles again. Stay with UV and blue lights mainly.
2- In a few days if you see the Dino coming back but very weak, I did add 1tsp Kalwasser/gal of water and add dropwise to the sum to bring pH from 8.2 slowly up to 8.6 in 2-3 days. This would kill the rest of DINO.
Please think about this before you try as each tank is different, don't know if it works for you...but I was so stressed with this a few days ago. Now it is over.
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1-treat the tank with SPS and fishes inside for 5 days total blackout. Keep a box or cardboard covers everywhere and the tank should be total black out/ very dark. Make sure there are space for air circulation !!! Without light or food. Yes, I was very afraid but somehow the fishes went to a long sleep and after 5 days everything was OK after. I saw almost no Dino after this.SPS were pale and fishes were very hungry. So light low and feed less for the first few days.
The important thing is your Radion program should have red and green light intensity about 12% or less only. As soon as these going up...you will see the strings and bubbles again. Stay with UV and blue lights mainly.
2- In a few days if you see the Dino coming back but very weak, I did add 1tsp Kalwasser/gal of water and add dropwise to the sum to bring pH from 8.2 slowly up to 8.6 in 2-3 days. This would kill the rest of DINO.
Please think about this before you try as each tank is different, don't know if it works for you...but I was so stressed with this a few days ago. Now it is over.
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MichaelW
New member
Hi thanks for the comment.
So I do have a fair amount of red in my radion program, however, the frag tank does not have a radion over it just the display. The frag tank is where I am seeing what are the dinos.. In the display it looks more like cyano 2 me.
5 days without light seems like a lot to me especially as my corals have already got pale. Maybe if they were healthy as they were a month ago they would have got through that just fine... Now I'm not so sure.
The thing I'm not sure about is if I should keep adding the aminos etc as my nutrients are reading so low and my corals look pale, or not add them because of the cyano/dino... I do not have any hair type algea anywhere it's just the dusty type algae I get on the glass almost daily (the reason I thought to try reduce nutrients a little more to begin with) and the slimy crap that really showed up once I'm guessing the nutrients did drop... However my kits always read the same numbers.
Acronut
New member
Hi, I am not sure if this makes sense but I think your system is way too low in nutrient because of the AF bio AND bioS that mean double actions of bacteria cleaning out N, P and other organic. Maybe you can forget about bio S and NP pro, just throw in a few cubes of Mysis or other frozen food, some Live Phytoplankton...these proteins will feed your fishes as well as your SPS ...to give it more colours. What I did was giving frozen food and stop skimming for 3 days !!! This way you boost your corals at the same time boost other copepods in your tanks that will eat Dino for you and compete for the same nutrients. You can read more about this " dirty water" method that works very well for many. People think that Dino are bacteria and if they have a chance to grow without competition then they will grow very fast. Your frag tank look like Dino infection a lot to me so if you can put it in the dark you can save it, otherwise you have to treat with chemicals...it will be very rough...much more than in the dark. I did not see my SPS was much paler than before...your frag tank is in a very critical position...My display tank looked like a cyano case at the beginning but after I treated with Chemclean for cyano, I found it still have Dino too. Pls think about lower your red and green intensities in your Radion.
I would like also to suggest that you use AF reef salt and use pro bioS and NP slowly now since I think maybe you have too much bacteria already...?
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I would like also to suggest that you use AF reef salt and use pro bioS and NP slowly now since I think maybe you have too much bacteria already...?
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Acronut
New member
If you are afraid... you can try feed your fish and coral with frozen Mysis etc..., don't skim . Try this for a day or 2... no aa. Pls try to beef up your fish and corals first if you do not see the Dino yet. Reduce your red & green.. you can read this in others discussions. Only when you see Dino then try 3 days black out...feed and later another 2 days black out. In this case the worst thing is if the bacteria becomes resistant to the blackout then...it's harder to treat...but we will see..
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Mr.Fishtank
New member
"However my kits always read the same numbers."
I have this same problem with my kits. Redsea for nitrates and hanna for phosphates.
It always reads 4ppm for no3 and hanna almost always reads 0.00 Once every couple months the hanna will show 0.04 but never anything higher. I recently sent some water into ATW for testing and got back 16ppm no3 and 0.06 phosphates. I have been dealing with the brown crap on the sand for over 7 months. They also showed that my silicate level was sky high. Maybe has something to do with that. I have been dealing with colors paling on me as well but yet I have plenty of nutrients in the tank.
I would strongly suggest you send some water to ATW or Triton for testing.
FWIW. Before I decided to try the AF system I was using bio-pellets for about 2 month. This is the only time the brown algae went away on the sand. Took a month or so after starting the bio-pellets tho.
I have this same problem with my kits. Redsea for nitrates and hanna for phosphates.
It always reads 4ppm for no3 and hanna almost always reads 0.00 Once every couple months the hanna will show 0.04 but never anything higher. I recently sent some water into ATW for testing and got back 16ppm no3 and 0.06 phosphates. I have been dealing with the brown crap on the sand for over 7 months. They also showed that my silicate level was sky high. Maybe has something to do with that. I have been dealing with colors paling on me as well but yet I have plenty of nutrients in the tank.
I would strongly suggest you send some water to ATW or Triton for testing.
FWIW. Before I decided to try the AF system I was using bio-pellets for about 2 month. This is the only time the brown algae went away on the sand. Took a month or so after starting the bio-pellets tho.
MichaelW
New member
I feed 6 cubes of frozen food per day. I might add 1 more.and my auto feeder feeds pellets 3 Times a day.
I had been running the AF products for a while now and been very happy with results. It seems that these problems seemed to coincide with a slight increase in the amounts of media I was using (in an effort to reduce glass wiping from daily to every 3 days) unfortunately during this time I unexpectedly had to stay at work longer a few days in a row and the fish got skipped on a few feedings in a row. Pretty sure it has to do with a utrient drop.
What would be thoughts on dosing some nitrate? I have some seachem flourish (potassium nitrate) on the shelf never used but wondering if I try this to bump up nitrate it might help and maybe not feed the dino, cyano, whatever, at the same time as my aminos etc probably would.
I had been running the AF products for a while now and been very happy with results. It seems that these problems seemed to coincide with a slight increase in the amounts of media I was using (in an effort to reduce glass wiping from daily to every 3 days) unfortunately during this time I unexpectedly had to stay at work longer a few days in a row and the fish got skipped on a few feedings in a row. Pretty sure it has to do with a utrient drop.
What would be thoughts on dosing some nitrate? I have some seachem flourish (potassium nitrate) on the shelf never used but wondering if I try this to bump up nitrate it might help and maybe not feed the dino, cyano, whatever, at the same time as my aminos etc probably would.
MichaelW
New member
I could try to remove all frags from frag tank and put on sand bed in display, then disconnect tank. Might dino be transfered on corals though into tank? Does dipping in Bayer kill them?
What about my new frag tank...set it up as seperate system for now? The plan was to have them connected.
What about my new frag tank...set it up as seperate system for now? The plan was to have them connected.
Acronut
New member
If you wash your frags and then dip QUICKLY in a generous bath solution of 1ml of hydrogen peroxide /gal of AF then rinse you can kill most of Dino in your heavily DINO infected frag tank. Do not put these frags in your display, the Dino will infect your whole DT then you will have a crazy headache. Until you are sure of NO Dino or Cyano , do not mix the two tanks. Then Feed your frags to become healthy again. The idea behind the "dirty water" treatment is that you feed the whole tank very well so that there are lots of competitions against Dino, you even encourage green algae so Dino cannot grow, and copepods will eat micro algae then will eat Dino.
In this way...if we add Nitrate we encourage algae growth right ? And more frozen food too ...at least fishes and corals will be very happy !!!
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In this way...if we add Nitrate we encourage algae growth right ? And more frozen food too ...at least fishes and corals will be very happy !!!
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Acronut
New member
Yes, but somehow you have much more Dino in the frag tank than DT...?!!? Maybe the UV light in your Radion controls the bacteria more efficiently...?...you still have to treat the frag tank otherwise it will suffocate your frags...I feel your pain...
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joshky
Acros & Wrasses
This goes back to what my research has led me to believe, dinos thrive in tanks without enough biodiversity to out-compete. When I got my new live rock from TBS I didn't remove all of the dinos and the next day there were no dinos left.
MichaelW
New member
So this is the tank as we speak. Some corals still look fine but overall tank has lost a lot of color, some corals died and were removed, others I just took out and got rid of because I found AEFW eggs all in the branches and couldn't be bothered to cut frags to save etc just wanted all the eggs I found out. And of course you can see the horrible state of the sand.
And this was a shot a took a couple weeks ago of a coral I have had a couple months. Its my attempt at an overly blue, only led, crazy color tenuis to try and rival the Walt Disney etc.
And this was a shot a took a couple weeks ago of a coral I have had a couple months. Its my attempt at an overly blue, only led, crazy color tenuis to try and rival the Walt Disney etc.
