Minimalistic multichip DIY LED build

That asumption is something that I think we should not make. I see mention in many other threads as well as here of individuals considering multi emitters in the 250 watt range for there 12" to 16" tall frag tanks.

My argument is that when your over 24" in tank height the multichips are the best solution. At 24" it is a toss up which is better with personal taste being the big difference. For shallower tank the single emiters are your bestbet especialy not that they are reaily avauilable up to 10 Watt and will be available up to 20 watts hopefully by the end of this year.

It is emails like one individual asking how many multi emiters he should use for his "Frag Display" tank that is 26" X 36" by 12 inches deep. Shadows are not a problem but even lighting throughout would depend on how high he wants his cannons. Would he not be better off with multi single eitters?

For frag tanks that are longer than 24" I must say yes, I mentioned in my post that frag tanks or long tanks should use single emitter setups, but I have seen a single cannon used extremely successfully on a 24x24x12 frag tank, this was hung pretty high with a 60 degree lens/reflector, great growth and nice light. What I like most is the simplicity of having a cannon or multiple cannons, wiring, cleaning and hanging are all easier, and the shimmer is great, and some people like having a dramatic single light source.
 
hey there.

i have already built some experimental multichip lamps, and want to use this experience to build the perfect lamp for my tank. i plan 2 pendants with cpu coolers, without lenses. due to that fact, i have to place them quite low over the water surface and fear corrosion.

what measures have you taken to prevent splash-damage or saltcreep?

i plan on using an acrylic dome glued under the pendants, like half a ball. my question is, will this affect the light of the 4x10w multichips under it, like a lens?
the dome will be 5 inches across, and the multichips will be as much centered as soldering permits. distance from the dome to water surface will be minimal, maybe just a few inches.

thanks in advance for your answers,
greetings martin


The dome will probably not act as a lens - it could be the other way around instead. But I´m not sure.

I have run this construction for 2 years over my tank without any problems - only 2.5 " from the surface - no problems.

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With a pendant and use of a CPU or VGA cooler you have to construct the build so air freely can be blown out from the pendant.

Sincerely Lasse
 
thank you for your pictures! i have to cope with the problem that my intended cooler/pendant will be round, therefore requiring a round splashguard. i will use 5 inch acrylic "bubbles" you can hang on the christmas tree with fotos in them. they are seperable in half, i just have to figure out how to attach them to my pendant.

i will be using this:
http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/30011832/
with the acrylic half dome and the 4x10w chips glued to the bottom, and a special round cpu cooler, xigamatek apache, screwed inside the metal corpus.

i will definately post pictures, i have just ordered all the components including 10w mutlichips from china: 25000k and RB ones.

greetings from austria
 
I have been looking at "Ordning" also but the coolers I use is 120 mm across and "Ordning" is 118 mm across the outside. Your cooler should not exceed 110 mm across.

I´ll see forward to pictures from your project - post it here.

I´m from Sweden and we have 2 IKEA nearby :)

Sincerely Lasse
 
In his link, the picture says 13.5cm = 135mm? yes/no

Just read speck 12cm diameter :rollface:

As a Swede - I have only to go out to my kitchen and make measurements :) :) - the height is 135 mm -> 13,5 cm - the diameter is 118 mm and if you want to put anything in it - it can´t exceed 110 mm

Sincerely Lasse
 
For frag tanks that are longer than 24" I must say yes, I mentioned in my post that frag tanks or long tanks should use single emitter setups, but I have seen a single cannon used extremely successfully on a 24x24x12 frag tank, this was hung pretty high with a 60 degree lens/reflector, great growth and nice light. What I like most is the simplicity of having a cannon or multiple cannons, wiring, cleaning and hanging are all easier, and the shimmer is great, and some people like having a dramatic single light source.

Yes you can put a 250 Watt light on a 30 gallon frag tank that is only 12" deep, if you raise it high enough. But why use a 250 Watt light when can get good results with lighting in the 60 to 90 Watt range.
 
Hello,

I will start to built 3 units (cannons) with dreamchip 90w led, but i have a little question, with this kind of heatsink (
THERMAX ECLIPSE II) i can apply the led directly (with the Conductive Thermal Grease) in the surface of the heatsink? or i need some kind of adaptor?

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You have to bolt the LED chip to the heat sink. To glue it is not strong enough (according to my own experiences). Test if you can use the coolers own attachment holes. You can attach directly against the cooling area at the cooler (with thermal Grease) if you can use the coolers holes. IMO its best to attach directly. I only use two bolts to attach my LED chips to my cooler (diagonally mounted)

mount-LED.jpg

Sincerely Lasse
 
Hi Lasse, in one of your posts long ago you had said that there was need to file/mill down the connection point on the Zalman cooler that you were using. Did all your Zalman coolers end up needing extra work done at the connection point?
 
It was Tomservo that stated that - not me :). But - yes - I have done that with help of fine sandpaper and metallic sponges (svinto).

Sincerely Lasse
 
As far as PAR goes I put little faith on PAR ratings. Mainly because I have found that the Cool White 6,500K chips give the best PAR meter reading per Watt. But they alone are far from creating the lighting balance that Corals love the most. On a fresh water build using only cool and neutral white chips I got 250 par at the substrate of a 75 gallon tank with only 120 watts. But that lighting would be close to useless on a reef tank.
Why?

I can't recall any definitive and credible academic studies concluding reef tank corals (very broad group), anemones and T. clams require the amount of blue light accepted as the norm in the hobby. Imo, it does more for the reefer in terms of bringing out colors and pop which pleases them more then the corals. Great marketing concept too. Exception being if the corals are and were collected in deepwater.

Personal communication with Dr Mac re: maricultured corals, he said they are grown in knee deep water and he considers deepwater corals those grown and or collected in ~20'. Just read his sites description, and ask yourself how much blue light those corals are receiving (i highly doubt anywhere near whats being marketed to reefers)?
http://www.liveaquaria.com/diversden/CatDisplay.cfm?c=2733+6
"Maricultured Corals are propagated overseas and grown out in shallow protected lagoons or in outdoor raceways using natural sunlight and ocean water."

Anemone and T. clam keepers have long acknowledged those animals usually are shallow water and benefit more from a strong daylight spectrum then the blue light norm of the hobby.

I personally am maintaining a 40gallon breeder of SPS corals under a 2x2 mix of four hanging Daylight 5000 K, PAR38 spots.
Two are a Multichip overdriven to 23watts which i got at Lowes, Utilitech Pro (Feit), 23watt 1400lumens 5000 K 83 CRI. The other two spots sourced from Home Depot each consist of ten individual chips, Philips 19.5watt 1300lumens 5000 K 80 CRI. I found the Philips to be more a pinkish blue light and the Utilitech a greenish daylight. The mix works well and the tank does not appear yellow.

Really, if my lighting choice is close to useless in my reef tank as you propose, may i suggest you tell it to my corals?

Btw, i played around with daylight spectrum lamps for years, we didn't have many options in the late eighties.
 
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You have to bolt the LED chip to the heat sink. To glue it is not strong enough (according to my own experiences). Test if you can use the coolers own attachment holes. You can attach directly against the cooling area at the cooler (with thermal Grease) if you can use the coolers holes. IMO its best to attach directly. I only use two bolts to attach my LED chips to my cooler (diagonally mounted)

View attachment 239118

Sincerely Lasse

Thanks Lasse. Ill post my DIY soon!!
 
Why?

I can't recall any definitive and credible academic studies concluding reef tank corals (very broad group), anemones and T. clams require the amount of blue light accepted as the norm in the hobby. Imo, it does more for the reefer in terms of bringing out colors and pop which pleases them more then the corals. Great marketing concept too. Exception being if the corals are and were collected in deepwater. .

For starters les's look at what PAR is. It is the measurement of all light emitted in wave lenghts between 400 and 700 nm. Now lets us look at what Coral need they need for photosynthesis mainly the light emited between 400 nm and 520 nm, with a much less secondary need on some corals between 620 and 680nm. So we can say that the range of PAr lighting is over 300 nm with a 180 nm range being utilized and a 120 nm range not being utilized by the coral.

But if we look at most lighting sources in our home they are centered on providing the brightest lighting for our visual pleasure. For tht reason they look at our eye sensativity being the highest in the 500 to 600 nm range where they emit the most light. This not used by coral but provides better viewing to us for the reflective colors of coral. So with some light sources rather than 40% of the light not being utilized we more to levels of more than 50% more.


Personal communication with Dr Mac re: maricultured corals, he said they are grown in knee deep water and he considers deepwater corals those grown and or collected in ~20'. Just read his sites description, and ask yourself how much blue light those corals are receiving (i highly doubt anywhere near whats being marketed to reefers)?
http://www.liveaquaria.com/diversden/CatDisplay.cfm?c=2733+6
"Maricultured Corals are propagated overseas and grown out in shallow protected lagoons or in outdoor raceways using natural sunlight and ocean water."
.

I have no doubt that corals can survive under strict full spectrumed light. But if we are trying to be economical with outh our lighting then you can compare what the actural corals need and get from a 1000 Watts of Full spectrum lighting to be almost equal to what they can get from 600 watts of spectrum selected lighting. If your tuning for a specific coral or group of coras this can even be lowered to the 300 or 400 watt range.


Anemone and T. clam keepers have long acknowledged those animals usually are shallow water and benefit more from a strong daylight spectrum then the blue light norm of the hobby. .

My comments are based more on corals than anything else. However I do know of an individdual that has grown some fantastic Clams. He got them roughly 4 years ago in the 2" size rang and now they are between 8" and 12" with fantastic colors. His lighting consists of three 250 Watt 20,000K MH's that he runs 5 hours a day, and 300 watts of Royal Blue LED's that he runs for 12 hours per day. He atributes the growth and color more to his feeding than the lights though.

I personally am maintaining a 40gallon breeder of SPS corals under a 2x2 mix of four hanging Daylight 5000 K, PAR38 spots.
Two are a Multichip overdriven to 23watts which i got at Lowes, Utilitech Pro (Feit), 23watt 1400lumens 5000 K 83 CRI. The other two spots sourced from Home Depot each consist of ten individual chips, Philips 19.5watt 1300lumens 5000 K 80 CRI. I found the Philips to be more a pinkish blue light and the Utilitech a greenish daylight. The mix works well and the tank does not appear yellow. .

I'm not sure if I'm calulating this correctly but it sounds to me ike you have roughly 85 Watts of lighting on that 40 Breeder. From your description I would say that those chips are probably not true 5,000K if you take reference to a true Kelvin color chart and your description of the lighting.

I have several 40 breeders going. The best reslts I have gotten to date is from running 8 Watts of Neutral Whites (4,500K) 8 Watts of True Blue (470 nm) 8 Watts of near UV 430 nm and 24 Watts of Royal Blue (454 nm). This is a total of 52 watts watts measured at the outlet and I also have fantastic growth and color.

But this sort of proves my point your running 80 watts and getting the same effect as I am runnning at 52 watts. That mean there is a 35% difference in the effeciency of the lighting as far as coral growth goes.

Btw, i played around with daylight spectrum lamps for years, we didn't have many options in the late eighties.


LED's did not exist in the 80's. But I worked in the industry on florescent tubes back then. The offerening have not changed that much but the availabbility has changed. They basicly retailed only the high demand bulbs back then and the specialty bulbs were only prodiced as special order runs. Interstingly it was not uncommon to runthe specialty bulbs and they would end up with several different stampings of various vendors like Corallife, and Penplex both claiming the same bulb was something else.
 
As far as PAR goes I put little faith on PAR ratings. Mainly because I have found that the Cool White 6,500K chips give the best PAR meter reading per Watt. But they alone are far from creating the lighting balance that Corals love the most. On a fresh water build using only cool and neutral white chips I got 250 par at the substrate of a 75 gallon tank with only 120 watts. But that lighting would be close to useless on a reef tank.

I have no doubt that corals can survive under strict full spectrumed light.

I'm not sure if I'm calulating this correctly but it sounds to me ike you have roughly 85 Watts of lighting on that 40 Breeder. From your description I would say that those chips are probably not true 5,000K if you take reference to a true Kelvin color chart and your description of the lighting.

I have several 40 breeders going. The best reslts I have gotten to date is from running 8 Watts of Neutral Whites (4,500K) 8 Watts of True Blue (470 nm) 8 Watts of near UV 430 nm and 24 Watts of Royal Blue (454 nm). This is a total of 52 watts watts measured at the outlet and I also have fantastic growth and color.

But this sort of proves my point your running 80 watts and getting the same effect as I am runnning at 52 watts. That mean there is a 35% difference in the effeciency of the lighting as far as coral growth goes.
I wasn't arguing that point, actually find it interesting, i've always been about achieving energy efficient systems. However it does prove wrong your statement about daylight spectrum lighting being "close to useless on a reef tank" (FWIW my PAR38 spots are hanging 18" above the aquarium)
As far as PAR goes I put little faith on PAR ratings. Mainly because I have found that the Cool White 6,500K chips give the best PAR meter reading per Watt. But they alone are far from creating the lighting balance that Corals love the most. On a fresh water build using only cool and neutral white chips I got 250 par at the substrate of a 75 gallon tank with only 120 watts. But that lighting would be close to useless on a reef tank.
 
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