Minimalistic multichip DIY LED build

Those look pretty interesting. I never thought about a step down system to run just the one PS. Only concetn I see is that max input is 48V so I would have to adjust my PS down or find a larger step down unit. Either way it is interesting. Off to do more research.
 
Personal communication with Dr Mac re: maricultured corals, he said they are grown in knee deep water and he considers deepwater corals those grown and or collected in ~20'. Just read his sites description, and ask yourself how much blue light those corals are receiving (i highly doubt anywhere near whats being marketed to reefers)?
http://www.liveaquaria.com/diversden/CatDisplay.cfm?c=2733+6
"Maricultured Corals are propagated overseas and grown out in shallow protected lagoons or in outdoor raceways using natural sunlight and ocean water."
Sorry for the old reply, but you realize there is more blue light in shallow lagoons/race way tanks than there is at "deep water" the blue spectrum does not become more energetic the deeper you go, in fact it becomes less energetic, it's just other wavelengths get removed as well so water turns bluer and gives the illusion that there's more blue light there than near the surface.

So if a coral really only uses wavelengths between 400 - 500nm (not sure the actual wavelength just pulling numbers out of thin air for the purposes of making my point) then yeah, it makes a lot of sense to use more bluer light and less "daylight", since the corals don't really use those "daylight" colors either.
 
Hi Lasse and everyone,

My friend is planning to use 12 20w multichips from AC-RC plus T5s in his 48x18x18" mixed reef. (Mostly SPS and zoa dominated)

Initial plan is 5 15000k, 3 Violet hybrid (445nm, 420nm and 430nm), 2 455nm and 2 460nm chips. Plus 10000k T5s.

What would be the best dimmable meanwell driver should we use to drive the LEDs? Would a combination of 60 degree and 90 degree lens work? Or would it it be fine not to use any lens at all? The fixture would be hung at a distance of 10-12" away from the water.

Thanks very much to you and maglofster and to everyone that have contributed to this thread. :)
 
Its a rather shallow aquarium - I probably should test without lenses - only splash guards.

If he can use 6 pcs 16 000 K, 3 pcs violet hybrid, 3 pcs 455 an 3 pcs 460 - its better. In this case - it possible to arrange them in three clusters (2 white, 1 hybrid, 1 pcs 450 nm and 1 pcs 460 nm - the hybrid in the middle surrounded of 1 white, 1 RB, 1 white and 1 RB) Make space for lenses (why not for the new adjustable lenses they sell) but test first without.

5 pcs of HLG-60H-36B 1 for three Hybrid, 1 for three 450 nm, 1 for three 460 nm, 1 for three 16000 K and one more for three 16 000 K. Its better to have each colour independent compared with each cluster independent (IMO)


If you test without lenses, try to mount the LED max 6" above the surface - with lenses - higher

Sincerely Lasse
 
Hi Lasse and everyone,

My friend is planning to use 12 20w multichips from AC-RC plus T5s in his 48x18x18" mixed reef. (Mostly SPS and zoa dominated)

Initial plan is 5 15000k, 3 Violet hybrid (445nm, 420nm and 430nm), 2 455nm and 2 460nm chips. Plus 10000k T5s.

What would be the best dimmable meanwell driver should we use to drive the LEDs? Would a combination of 60 degree and 90 degree lens work? Or would it it be fine not to use any lens at all? The fixture would be hung at a distance of 10-12" away from the water.

Thanks very much to you and maglofster and to everyone that have contributed to this thread. :)

I have played with different combinations and have found that your overall wattage sounds slightly on the high end. On a simular 90 gallon tank I'm running about 120 total watts of LED's and 108 Watts of T-5's. I prefer to use the ATI Blue Plus bulbs for the T-5's as they give a nice balance to the blue end of the spectrum. However I also use about 40 Watts of Neutral Whites which some people in this thread do not not use. The remaining LED's are a combination of near UV (420nm) Royal Blue (455 nm) and true blue (470 nm) with half the power being in the Royal Blues. With using neutral whites I find no need to suplement with red LED's.

Since your using adjustable drivers I would go more than 120 watts total on LED's to give you more adjustability in the light spectrum to meet your personal color taste. Keep the whites on a seperate driver so they can be adjusted seperatly from the blues.
 
I have played with different combinations and have found that your overall wattage sounds slightly on the high end. On a simular 90 gallon tank I'm running about 120 total watts of LED's and 108 Watts of T-5's. I prefer to use the ATI Blue Plus bulbs for the T-5's as they give a nice balance to the blue end of the spectrum. However I also use about 40 Watts of Neutral Whites which some people in this thread do not not use. The remaining LED's are a combination of near UV (420nm) Royal Blue (455 nm) and true blue (470 nm) with half the power being in the Royal Blues. With using neutral whites I find no need to suplement with red LED's.

Since your using adjustable drivers I would go more than 120 watts total on LED's to give you more adjustability in the light spectrum to meet your personal color taste. Keep the whites on a seperate driver so they can be adjusted seperatly from the blues.


Thanks for the tips, Dennis! If ever we don't use neutral white LEDs and just use 10000k (or less?) T5s, do you suppose the color would still be good?
 
PS

Has anyone here tried using only 10w multichip arrays, especially the 15000k and 20000k hybrids from AC-RC? How well do they perform as compared to higher wattage multichips? I personally plan to use them to light up my 6ft long reef tank. Corals will only be placed where the lights are...the area to be lit is about 48"x16"x16" (LxWxH)
 
PS

Has anyone here tried using only 10w multichip arrays, especially the 15000k and 20000k hybrids from AC-RC? How well do they perform as compared to higher wattage multichips? I personally plan to use them to light up my 6ft long reef tank. Corals will only be placed where the lights are...the area to be lit is about 48"x16"x16" (LxWxH)


I have use them for more than 2 years to a 48"*24"*24" tank. 16 000 K plus Royal Blues - no hybrids (there was no hybrids when I constructed that array). It works rather well bur a little to weak for that tank (no lenses) - However I prefer to run the 20 w because there are more options with them

Sincerely Lasse
 
Hey Lasse (and possibly others), let's see if you can help me out here. I just installed new lights and I think I might have too much light, but can't really be sure as the tank is still empty (apart from a few shrimp).

So the tank is 95x50x45cm (approx 37x20x18") so about 56-57 gallons. I have the following lights:

- 20W hybrid actinic (AC-RC)
- 8x Cree RoyalBlue XT-E
- 4x Cree NeutralWhite XT-E
- 2x TrueViolet 405nm
- 2x DreamChip 100 with only Blue/RoyalBlue/UV channels activated

I do ramp up/down so obviously not all lights are on all the time. I plan on running the 2 DreamChips only as "high noon" lights for 2 hours per day. However, the total wattage according to my calcs is at least 350W - does this sound too little or too much? I plan on having SPS as before.

No optics on any of the leds.

Thanks!
 
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Hey Lasse (and possibly others), let's see if you can help me out here. I just installed new lights and I think I might have too much light, but can't really be sure as the tank is still empty (apart from a few shrimp).

So the tank is 95x50x45cm (approx 37x20x18") so about 56-57 gallons. I have the following lights:

- 20W hybrid actinic (AC-RC)
- 8x Cree RoyalBlue XT-E
- 4x Cree NeutralWhite XT-E
- 2x TrueViolet 405nm
- 2x DreamChip 100 with only Blue/RoyalBlue/UV channels activated

I do ramp up/down so obviously not all lights are on all the time. I plan on running the 2 DreamChips only as "high noon" lights for 2 hours per day. However, the total wattage according to my calcs is at least 350W - does this sound too little or too much? I plan on having SPS as before.

No optics on any of the leds.

Thanks!

You'll only need to run that at 50% max. You need about 37 Cree or Luxeon leds, so figure a bit more for a dreamchip. So about 150w will be sufficient, but 175w would be better.
 
I have use them for more than 2 years to a 48"*24"*24" tank. 16 000 K plus Royal Blues - no hybrids (there was no hybrids when I constructed that array). It works rather well bur a little to weak for that tank (no lenses) - However I prefer to run the 20 w because there are more options with them

Sincerely Lasse

Thanks, Lasse. Another reefer friend have a few 10w drivers to spare so I thought I might as well get them and use them for my tank. :D
 
You'll only need to run that at 50% max. You need about 37 Cree or Luxeon leds, so figure a bit more for a dreamchip. So about 150w will be sufficient, but 175w would be better.
Ok, as I don't have dimmers on DreamChips would it be okay to run the 20W hybrid + the Crees for like 8 hours, then add the DreamChips for just a couple of hours per day?
 
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