Mountains of sawdust (360g plywood, LED, Arduino build)
- Thread starter der_wille_zur_macht
- Start date
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
Everything about the tank looked fine this morning. I think I may drag all my man-made live rock out of the basement and use some of this test water to cure it, so it doesn't all go to waste.
I asked my (three year old) son if we should let one of the tetras from his 10g planted FW tank swim in Daddy's big tank, and he said "no, they're scared because it's so big." Then I asked if HE wanted to swim in Daddy's tank and he just got a nervous look on his face and backed away. :lol: Oh well, his big sister is interested, so we may yet have a "human swimming in the fish tank" photo.
Honestly, I had no idea what to expect for bow. Very few people with wood tanks have bothered to measure (much less glass or acrylic tanks) so it's hard to know what's "good" or "bad" in that respect. Especially in a truly composite tank like this, where the glass is basically floating on a cushion of silicone.
Good luck with your future build. Sounds like we have a similar mindset - I've enjoyed this build immensely, so far. Getting there is half the fun.
Yes, I agree. I'm one of the first houses on the water main after it leaves the treatment/storage facility in my village, so we always know what's going on with the system. The pump house and water towers are practically in my back yard. You should see my tap water after they flush the sand filters. :worried: Though to be fair, the poor quality camera on my CrapBerry was contributing to the hues in those photos at least a little.
I asked my (three year old) son if we should let one of the tetras from his 10g planted FW tank swim in Daddy's big tank, and he said "no, they're scared because it's so big." Then I asked if HE wanted to swim in Daddy's tank and he just got a nervous look on his face and backed away. :lol: Oh well, his big sister is interested, so we may yet have a "human swimming in the fish tank" photo.
Honestly, I had no idea what to expect for bow. Very few people with wood tanks have bothered to measure (much less glass or acrylic tanks) so it's hard to know what's "good" or "bad" in that respect. Especially in a truly composite tank like this, where the glass is basically floating on a cushion of silicone.
Good luck with your future build. Sounds like we have a similar mindset - I've enjoyed this build immensely, so far. Getting there is half the fun.
Yes, I agree. I'm one of the first houses on the water main after it leaves the treatment/storage facility in my village, so we always know what's going on with the system. The pump house and water towers are practically in my back yard. You should see my tap water after they flush the sand filters. :worried: Though to be fair, the poor quality camera on my CrapBerry was contributing to the hues in those photos at least a little.
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
Drained it last night. There was evidence of one tiiiiiiiny leak near one of the closed loop bulkheads on the bottom of the tank - there was a damp spot about 3" across underneath it on the floor. For 48 hours of wet time, that's not much. Probably just didn't tighten the bulkhead enough, or something else simple like that - at the very least, it was clear that the leak with due to the bulkhead, and not the tank itself, so I'm not worried.
Next up: stand building!
Next up: stand building!
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
The tank will be in the center of the home as pictured earlier in the thread. The flooring in this area is carpet, with 3/4" chipboard subfloor, on top of two layers of (original) roughly 3/4" softwood boards that formed the original subfloor for the house. So with respect to subfloor, the materials aren't the best, but it's darn thick. Directly underneath the tank's location are two main beams from the original post-and-beam structure (house is around 200 years old). One of these is about 16" square, the other is about 6" x 8". Right near the "back" end of the tank (towards the bathroom) those beams rest on an original stone foundation wall. The beams run parallel to the long direction of the tank, and span about 12'.
I screwed a 4' long 4x4 beam to the bottom of each of those beams a few feet out from that foundation wall, such that the end of the 4x4 is roughly where the end of the tank will be. These should help support the load in the event that the original beams are damaged in some way I can't detect (rotted, cracked, etc). They look solid, but you never know in an older structure.
Then, there's a 4x4 post under each of the beams.
At the bottom of the 4x4 post, I used a solid concrete pier block (as you'd use to support a deck or other outside structure). These blocks weigh 50 - 60 lbs each. I built a 2x4 frame that's about 6" bigger than the bottom of the blocks, and poured concrete around each of the blocks, to firmly set them against the basement floor.
That's the structure to support the stand. FWIW, I had the 125g pictured earlier in the thread in this location without issue, with none of the added reinforcements.
For the stand itself, I built a 2x6 frame as seen under the tank in the above photos. This will form the top frame of the stand. It's a single 2x6 on all sides except the long "back" side, which is two 2x6 beams. I doubled up this side because there will be only one post supporting the middle, to allow room for access doors. The other three sides will get 2x4 posts regularly spaced. The bottom frame of the stand will just be 2x4 lumber laid flat.
Above the stand, I will build a "hood" structure out of 2x4 lumber. The stand and hood will be built flush with the tank. Then, I'm going to hang drywall over the whole thing, floor to ceiling. Then, cut the drywall out for viewing panels and access doors in the stand and hood. Then, finish the cut drywall edges, hang some doors over the openings, and DONE.
I'm a little undecided about the EXACT methods for the drywall hanging, since I won't be able to screw it into the tank (obviously), I'll probably use drywall adhesive to glue it on, and just hope that screwing it into the hood and stand provides enough pressure to hold it flat against the tank while the adhesive cures. Also, a little unsure about finishing the cut edges around doors and the viewing panels - I don't want to trim them out, I just want a clean, sharp edge. Luckily, my father in law is a retired drywall contractor, so he will be able to help with these details. And two of my brothers are general contractors/finish carpenters, so they'll be able to help with stand construction and finishing out the drywall, too. My uncle, the licensed electrician, is available to help if I get stuck finishing the wiring. I was born into the right family to tackle a project like this. :lol:
So in the middle of the front of the stand itself you won't have supports so that you can have access doors, but on the back you'll have supports?
I'm fixin' to build a stand for a 100g 36" cube and I'm thinking 2x6 corner supports is pretty much all it will need. But I might double 'em up. I'm just not sure yet.
I'm fixin' to build a stand for a 100g 36" cube and I'm thinking 2x6 corner supports is pretty much all it will need. But I might double 'em up. I'm just not sure yet.
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
I could probably sketch this faster than type it, but maybe this will clear up the stand design. I'll talk through construction:
1) Lay down 2x4's for the bottom outline of the stand.
2) Tack a 2x4 upright "inside" each corner.
3) Tack the (already finished 2x6) top frame to those uprights, then adjust the top frame until it's level.
4) Measure, cut, and install load-bearing posts. Each corner will get doubled 2x4 posts. Sides as follows:
a)The long "back" side of the tank (i.e. side with the small viewing panel facing the bedroom) will get ONE doubled 2x4 post halfway across it's span. Otherwise, it will be open for access doors.
b) The two shorter "ends" will each get a doubled 2x4 halfway across the 4' span.
c) The long "front" side with the main viewing panel will get a 2x4 post every 2 feet, i.e. three across the 72" span.
1) Lay down 2x4's for the bottom outline of the stand.
2) Tack a 2x4 upright "inside" each corner.
3) Tack the (already finished 2x6) top frame to those uprights, then adjust the top frame until it's level.
4) Measure, cut, and install load-bearing posts. Each corner will get doubled 2x4 posts. Sides as follows:
a)The long "back" side of the tank (i.e. side with the small viewing panel facing the bedroom) will get ONE doubled 2x4 post halfway across it's span. Otherwise, it will be open for access doors.
b) The two shorter "ends" will each get a doubled 2x4 halfway across the 4' span.
c) The long "front" side with the main viewing panel will get a 2x4 post every 2 feet, i.e. three across the 72" span.
driftin
New member
At Home Depot they sell U-shaped plastic edging trim that slides over the drywall ends. I used them to frame in my in-wall tank. I didn't do a great job with my drywall mud, so you can see the edge of the trim, but the U's did a nice job of finishing the drywall ends without building up any depth.
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
One of my contractor brothers tells me they have all sorts of different trim strips and suggested a specific kind, but I don't remember what it was. He said I'd be able to get the look I wanted, so I'll take his word for it. Will just have to take him shopping when I go get the materials!
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
Now THAT's an overflow box!
12" x 12" x 24"
12" x 12" x 24"
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
Mike, if you're ever back up this way, drop me a line. I'm about 20 minutes from Syracuse.
If you're gonna make fun of the overflow, at least point out that the sides aren't the same height or something. :lol: I haven't trimmed it yet in those dimensions because I was holding out on a bit to use. I'd love to put a gentle bullnose on the top lip but out of my 20 or so router bits I don't really have anything appropriate.
If you're gonna make fun of the overflow, at least point out that the sides aren't the same height or something. :lol: I haven't trimmed it yet in those dimensions because I was holding out on a bit to use. I'd love to put a gentle bullnose on the top lip but out of my 20 or so router bits I don't really have anything appropriate.
kcress
New member
I didn't have the heart.. :hmm3:
Just use a hatchet.
:lmao:
See, my wife doesn't understand yet. She asks why I can't make do with what I have. I just bought the kreg pocket jig. $40. she's like, what's so special about that? I told her "I'd break 3 drill bits and go through $20 in wood trying to do this myself. With the jig, I can do it repeatedly, perfectly."
Haven't been up to 'cuse in more than 15 years. Might drag the wife up there sometime though. My parents both went to school in Syracuse, West Hill.
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
I had my lawnmower's blades off the other day to sharpen them. I coulda used one of them.
I just trimmed the edges square after all. I really, really love working with acrylic. I just don't like it for display tank purposes. Otherwise this would have been a very different thread. :lol:
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
Planning on starting on the stand this weekend. Doing the math in my head this morning for how long it'll take my RO/DI system to fill the tank and sump. I should go turn it on NOW. :lol:
