Must-haves for EASY DIY controller?

I am completely up and running with the Hydra board and have made some modifications to the software to support my aquarium.

In particular I have made a communication class that can transfer more data other that the pH info from the Master to the Slave.

I don't have an IR remote in my system so my plans are to have very simple web forms control and report data from the Hydra. I have this pretty much up and running with reporting data to the web server interface and now need to do some work with HTTP POST requests to update information on the Hydra (e.g. clock, date, backlight min and max, etc...).

Question:
Does anyone know if the ethershield library we are using has any helpers for pulling apart the serial data received from the ENC chip? Basically looking for a functions that reports true for HTTP GET request or HTTP POST request and a pointer to the data payload.

Do you mind sharing your sketch? I would like to look at that communication class. (PM if you don't want to post it here)
 
I'm planning to order Hydra and Relay boards tomorrow, unless someone already has spares.

Will spend the extra $$ to have them all "tested" by the factory. :bounce1:
 
I think I finished assembling my hydra. Dose anyone have a procedure written up to load this thing up? the simpler the better
 
Here is my version.

Thanks TeraHz and others for the baseline.

Looks like a good mod to me. Might have been easier for you to use the Typhoon code as a base instead of mine looking at your changes for the master AVR :)

I think we had a discussion early on on "opening" the controller to the web (or not to), that's why the communication is done one way (Hydra to web). But your setup will also work and I'm sure a lot of the commercial reef controller folks will like it. Not to mention the code is much much simpler in the main AVR.

One question, I see that you're not storing any setting in the eeprom, how are you going to retain satate when the controller restarts?

Also, if you want an SVN repo, for your code, just let me know.
 
OK I am a total noob when it come to electronics and would like any help that anyone could give me.

I am currently setting up a new 110GAl DT and have been looking at controllers and found this build.

Can anyone give me a BOM on what all I need to purchase to complete this build.

Does anyone have a extra Hydra control board that they would sell me also any other extra parts to complete this build.

Thank you for all your work on this project.


If anyone is also else wants to group togeather to get the parts let me know maybe we can order in bulk.
 
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I think it may be important to reiterate this.

As it stands now, the controller project is not in any condition to be easily replicated by just anyone. The hardware itself is pretty solid and anyone that can solder should be able to get everything assembled as far as the board is concerned. The temp probe assembly and relay control is a little beyond the electronics newbie without some time and research.

The main issue right now is the software, it just does not contain the customizable functionality of your standard controllers. The menus and generic functionality still have a little way to go. Someone choosing to complete this project in it's current state will need at least a basic understanding of programming concepts.

It seems from right before christmas up until now, most of us have run into time constraints not allowing us to progress further along with the project just yet. There are plans for documentation and base software, it has just not been completed yet. As we get more free time, we will complete the online documentation and basic software similar to something such as a reefkeeper lite with internet status. Eventually there will documentation on many features.

I would advise everyone that unless you know programming and electronics or you are willing to learn, this project may not be for you in it's current state. Not to deter anyone, I just don't want anyone to think that you can just assemble the board, load the basic software, and have a fully function controller other than basic data readings. Even the relay control is not in a state for the average user without programming knowledge to customize it.
 
Dustin, point taken, I am willing to learn. I have read through the entire thread and am studing all that I can. Will continue to follow. But I like DIY projects and will start to collect the parts and will look forward to attempting the build.
 
FYI, The latest BOM: r51 by TeraHz on Dec 19, 2010 appears to have been saved in XML format. If you extract the zip you get a small folder tree containing xml documents.

Is it intended to be that way TeraHz? If so, how do I view it?

Thanks,
Mitch
 
FYI, The latest BOM: r51 by TeraHz on Dec 19, 2010 appears to have been saved in XML format. If you extract the zip you get a small folder tree containing xml documents.

Is it intended to be that way TeraHz? If so, how do I view it?

Thanks,
Mitch

NM, for some reason when I click "View raw file" it wants to save as a .zip?

I just renamed the extension is it works like a charm ;-)

Sorry for the confusion...

-M
 
Just ordered everything needed to complete one controller. Total so far is ~$114.00 that includes 4 x MCP23008 and 5 x DS18B20.

For relays I'm going a little bit different route. I am going to build two of these SSR boards: http://christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=SSRez

They will be housed in an enclosure similar to this: http://reefprojects.com/w/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=21&sid=b7243687ff24da73a22df7e46a1b6904

The SSR's are rated @ 4A ea with a total board rating of 7A.

My plan is to add an MCP23008 inside the enclosure so I only need 4 wires to control it (CAT 5?) looks like I should be able to build the power center for ~$45.00. Not bad for and 8 channel solid state I2C power center considering 2 x Digital Aquatics RKM-PC4 = $178.00 ;-)

What do you think?

-M
 
That's one option, but if you wanted to do that you could go with terahz's option. If you are set on using triacs you could go with this: http://www.futurlec.com/SSRAC.shtml

Both options only need a 5vTTL signal.

Either way, you should be able to use the hydra relay board to interface with all of them. The option I'm using is with everything in the hydra enclosure. My power strip just connects via a standard serial cable. This was the simplest option with the least work, and it was the cheapest as well. The only think I didn't like was all the sockets being normally open, but this should be solved by switching out the corresponding transistor for whichever socket you want to a PNP.

For those wanting to use triacs, your option seems like a good one, especially if the cost if $45 for everything minus the hydra relay board.
 
Ok so after reading all 49 pages I am a little disappointed, not because of what you guys have done, this is great, but rather because of the deviation from the original intention of this project.

I'll quote from the first post

"Keeping with the Arduino environment, it should be easy to create a shield with a DS1307 RTC and the pH meter circuitry onboard, which would mean you'd only have 1 PCB to deal with, in addition to the Arduino itself. It should be possible to arrange headers on that shield to allow for plugging in a cable to connect X number of relays, and another cable to connect X number of digital inputs (float switches, etc). You'd also need some form of output - either an LCD (control for it could be included on the shield) or some method to transmit data to a PC or the internet."

so while reading I was getting excited of being able to just put together an expansion board which mounts to my Arduino, then buy a few relays and away I go. it quickly became apparent that this simple Arduino add on was being turned into a "new" expanded Arduino built from scratch which adds to the complication of soldering and such and moves this out of "beginners" capabilities into an intermediate project.

at any rate I will probably still try to make something using my Arduino and some shields as I don't have the resorses to make a PCB and by the time I buy the soldering iron so I can do fine work and other tools a comercial set up like the APEX would be just as cheep.

but my question is about PWM, if I don't want to control DC fan speed, what else would require there use? I am looking at 2 pins for dimming LEDs and aside from a couple thermostats I think everything else would be relay driven. also I found a liquid level sensor and was wondering if I could get your thoughs on this type for level control
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10221 or this one
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9072

thanks
Steve
 
Ok so after reading all 49 pages I am a little disappointed, not because of what you guys have done, this is great, but rather because of the deviation from the original intention of this project.

I'll quote from the first post
..snip..

so while reading I was getting excited of being able to just put together an expansion board which mounts to my Arduino, then buy a few relays and away I go. it quickly became apparent that this simple Arduino add on was being turned into a "new" expanded Arduino built from scratch which adds to the complication of soldering and such and moves this out of "beginners" capabilities into an intermediate project.

Hi Steve,

I wouldn't say we have deviated from the original intention which was an easy DIY controller. As you've read, it really didn't took long before the single board approach was favored.

In its latest form, the board doesn't require any tools that you wouldn't need to make an expansion board for an already existing Arduino. As far as complexity, we have eliminated all small SMD parts from it and the only ones left are easier than most people think (if not easier than through-hole).

Since you've read the entire thread, you know that we wouldn't be able to accomplish what we have without adding a second AVR chip, so it is better that we decided to do a single board earlier in the discussion.

Cost wise, I can argue that the single board design is cheaper than the arduino+shield approach. The only parts that overlap with an existing board are one AVR chip, oscilator, +5V regulator and a few caps and resistors. That is probably $6-$7 worth of parts which is much less than the cost of a commercial arduino board.

All that being said, Hydra can work as a shield for your arduino. I'm fairly certain that you can just skip a few parts on the Hydra board (like u6, q3, u12 and a few caps and resistors) and you will have what you were looking for.


but my question is about PWM, if I don't want to control DC fan speed, what else would require there use? I am looking at 2 pins for dimming LEDs and aside from a couple thermostats I think everything else would be relay driven. also I found a liquid level sensor and was wondering if I could get your thoughs on this type for level control
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10221 or this one
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9072

PWM is our area is used mostly for LED control. The nice thing is, you can use these pins like any regular pin.

As for the water level sensors, they look interesting. Few things come to mind: a little wave can cause trouble. A snail going up the sensor will also cause trouble. If the sensor is protected from these two it will probably work. Looks like they are providing a sample circuit of use so it shouldn't be hard to implement.

Good luck and let us know how your controller turns out.
 
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