TheFishMan65
New member
seeliger, I would be interested in 2.
Must-haves for EASY DIY controller?
- Thread starter der_wille_zur_macht
- Start date
DustinB
New member
I just wanted to reiterate the fact that the board files posted on the code site are not the final design. Please do not order any boards just yet.
They appear to be working just fine, but the outline of U11 is backwards. I have fixed the board files and need to upload them tonight. Someone will still need to verify my change. I'm also waiting on one person to get their board tested to make sure there are no other issues, which their shouldn't be. I would just advise to wait a couple days at least to have this verified. I wouldn't want anyone to order any boards with the very small chance there may be another problem.
Won't be long guys. One thing to note for those who are planning on doing this soon, the code is nowhere near in a complete state and there is no documentation yet. I don't see either of these being completed for a while due to everyone's time constraints. That being said, once we verify the board and I release my altered board file, it "should" be ready for testing. Testing should be attempted by those who have at least minor electronics skills and those who have programming experience or the willingness to learn.
To get a working temp sensor or have relay control you will be required to build your own. Eventually we will have documentation, example code, and example tutorials on the various things needed besides the board itself. Just don't want people to think the project is in the goal state of anyone being able to assemble this and have a working controller.
They appear to be working just fine, but the outline of U11 is backwards. I have fixed the board files and need to upload them tonight. Someone will still need to verify my change. I'm also waiting on one person to get their board tested to make sure there are no other issues, which their shouldn't be. I would just advise to wait a couple days at least to have this verified. I wouldn't want anyone to order any boards with the very small chance there may be another problem.
Won't be long guys. One thing to note for those who are planning on doing this soon, the code is nowhere near in a complete state and there is no documentation yet. I don't see either of these being completed for a while due to everyone's time constraints. That being said, once we verify the board and I release my altered board file, it "should" be ready for testing. Testing should be attempted by those who have at least minor electronics skills and those who have programming experience or the willingness to learn.
To get a working temp sensor or have relay control you will be required to build your own. Eventually we will have documentation, example code, and example tutorials on the various things needed besides the board itself. Just don't want people to think the project is in the goal state of anyone being able to assemble this and have a working controller.
sanddune600
Premium Member
What's the best price you guys have found on atmega328 chips I got 2 for $11.50 shipped on eBay he doesn't post them so let me know if anyone wants to order from him
seeliger_00
New member
Boards
Boards
I would be willing to pony up for this order of boards if we can get them for the 30 bucks per DustinB recommendation. I will probably keep 4 of the boards. The others I could send out to some interested parties. Lets wait for DustinB to give the go ahead with the changes.
Fishman and Names will have dibs if I decide to go ahead with the order based on test results from Dustin. Once we are there will organize through PM.
Thanks for the display recommendation Dustin.
Boards
I would be willing to pony up for this order of boards if we can get them for the 30 bucks per DustinB recommendation. I will probably keep 4 of the boards. The others I could send out to some interested parties. Lets wait for DustinB to give the go ahead with the changes.
Fishman and Names will have dibs if I decide to go ahead with the order based on test results from Dustin. Once we are there will organize through PM.
Thanks for the display recommendation Dustin.
5ft24
New member
I'd be willing to get one and test it!
suspense is killing me guys, I have been reading through the last few days and am really excited with the direction you guys are going. I have done some programming myself and plan on integrating this with my iphone/ipad once I get up to speed on the arduino.
Question: If I order that starter kit from Spark fun, will I be able to reuse the arduino for this project? I just want to go through some of those simple tutorials to get up to speed.
Question: If I order that starter kit from Spark fun, will I be able to reuse the arduino for this project? I just want to go through some of those simple tutorials to get up to speed.
DustinB
New member
You would be more suited to use an arduino with this project: http://www.reefprojects.com/wiki/Main_Page
The hydra is an integrated board containing ethernet, pH, i2c LCD, real time clock, as well as a second AVR to help handle the rather large amount of code. It is also cheaper as well.
The main firmware I'm running is already at around 19k and I have a good bit left to add. I estimate my sketch to be around 25k when I'm done and the atmega328 only has about 30k usable. The basic webserver sketch is about 10k IIRC, which would make it impossible to work on a single atemega328/arduino. That is with a fully functional controller though including dosing controls, ato, etc... The hydra has the second AVR directly connected to the ethernet circuit.
That being said, if you like electronics, there's no reason to not get an arduino to have around. You could always get used to the arduino language/libraries. I wouldn't see it being very useful for the hydra firmware though as there is code for a lot of onboard stuff.
The hydra is an integrated board containing ethernet, pH, i2c LCD, real time clock, as well as a second AVR to help handle the rather large amount of code. It is also cheaper as well.
The main firmware I'm running is already at around 19k and I have a good bit left to add. I estimate my sketch to be around 25k when I'm done and the atmega328 only has about 30k usable. The basic webserver sketch is about 10k IIRC, which would make it impossible to work on a single atemega328/arduino. That is with a fully functional controller though including dosing controls, ato, etc... The hydra has the second AVR directly connected to the ethernet circuit.
That being said, if you like electronics, there's no reason to not get an arduino to have around. You could always get used to the arduino language/libraries. I wouldn't see it being very useful for the hydra firmware though as there is code for a lot of onboard stuff.
sanddune600
Premium Member
No you wouldn't but for$ 12 I got a anarduino (arduino clone) and I have been going through tutorials to learn the code you can get starter kits on eBay that don't come with an arduino
sanddune600
Premium Member
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sanddune600
Premium Member
what changes its looking like I should be getting most of my parts today and I was planning on building the board today but I dont want to build it if there is going to be benefits in another way
terahz
1x10^12 Hz
If you want to order go ahead. As I said the current board seems to be functional. The changes I'm talking about are regarding the SMD cap and ferrite bead. There are non-smd alternatives for these parts but the board cannot currently use them as it is. If you already have the board feel free to order the parts as per the current BOM.
sanddune600
Premium Member
I have the board and all the parts coming if I understand correctly the new design will be the same other then some of the parts will be through hole versas not. Although I dont see the advantage of the changes is this for cost, size, or ease of installation?
DustinB
New member
That is one thing I forgot to mention, the current board has the surface mount capacitor replaced by a through-hole version. The ferrite bead is still surface mount. You will still be able to solder the surface mount cap to the through-hole position on the board. There was just enough room when I soldered my latest board, the BOM needs to be updated for this change.
The idea for trying to get all through-hole parts was for ease of soldering, though surface mount isn't too difficult. As it is looking now we may have to stick with the surface mount ferrite bead. I talked to engineers at both mouser and digikey, they were unable to locate a through-hole alternative for this part.
When you go to solder C10, solder a small bead to one of the holes. Grab some tweezers and place the smd cap right next to that solder blob. Heat the solder blob and slide the smd cap into it making sure you leave a little bit of the other hole visible, then solder the other side to the other hole. When I did it the smd cap left 2/3 of of each hole visible with the cap in the center. I'll take some pics in a few minutes. I need to take a pic of my transistor board as well.
The idea for trying to get all through-hole parts was for ease of soldering, though surface mount isn't too difficult. As it is looking now we may have to stick with the surface mount ferrite bead. I talked to engineers at both mouser and digikey, they were unable to locate a through-hole alternative for this part.
When you go to solder C10, solder a small bead to one of the holes. Grab some tweezers and place the smd cap right next to that solder blob. Heat the solder blob and slide the smd cap into it making sure you leave a little bit of the other hole visible, then solder the other side to the other hole. When I did it the smd cap left 2/3 of of each hole visible with the cap in the center. I'll take some pics in a few minutes. I need to take a pic of my transistor board as well.
sanddune600
Premium Member
Has anybody thought of doing a tutorial on building the board I was thinking I would do it now I am not sure how different is the new board I am guessing that it will be pretty much the same so I could still use the pics I take right?
Dustin what transisters did you use I should have my SR-8 Tuesday so I will need to be building that as well
Dustin what transisters did you use I should have my SR-8 Tuesday so I will need to be building that as well
DustinB
New member
That wouldn't be a bad idea if you're up for it, no one has done anything as far as tutorials yet, just development. Everything should be the same other than C10 being through-hole and the silk for U11 being reversed. I have the part number listed in the following pics for the transistor. I have to go outside and do some work so I will try to do a schematic for the transistor board tonight.
Here is how my C10 looks soldered to the through-hole location:
Here is how the rest of the board looks, note the position of U11 and how I have it compared to what the silk shows. I also mounted my battery holder away from the board just in case I want to change the battery super easily in about 10 years.
Here's the top of the transistor board, I really need to make the schematic:
And the bottom:
Here's the pin out on the SR-8 relay strip for reference:
And finally, here's the enclosure with the serial plug on a sparkfun breakout board:
Here is how my C10 looks soldered to the through-hole location:
Here is how the rest of the board looks, note the position of U11 and how I have it compared to what the silk shows. I also mounted my battery holder away from the board just in case I want to change the battery super easily in about 10 years.
Here's the top of the transistor board, I really need to make the schematic:
And the bottom:
Here's the pin out on the SR-8 relay strip for reference:
And finally, here's the enclosure with the serial plug on a sparkfun breakout board:
terahz
1x10^12 Hz
sanddune600, Feel free to do a tutorial. I have started taking step by step photos on the last board and was planning on doing a build guide but if you want to do it, go ahead
As for the ferrite bead, I don't see why we can't use a regular radial ferrite. It is a bit bigger but it is dirt cheap and through hole.
As for the ferrite bead, I don't see why we can't use a regular radial ferrite. It is a bit bigger but it is dirt cheap and through hole.
sanddune600
Premium Member
I can do it wont be today though mouser delivers monday I thought I could go pick it up I have done this at other shipping locations but the facility that is closest to my house that has it now is closed Saturday and Sunday
seeliger_00
New member
Have you guys talked about or settled on a unit test framework for the hydra software development? ArdunioUnit seems to be pretty popular but I know nothing about it. Would be nice to have a unit test framework that doesn't require the board to regression test software changes people are making to the hydra code.
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