My Black Ocellaris pair are spawning!!!
- Thread starter rkelman
- Start date
rkelman
New member
No I'm not top dressing the Otohime. I'm just feeding Cyclopleeze once a day. I haven't fed anything other than Otohime in the past to the Black ones. Nor have I needed too. I get great colouration with my black ones. I did try home made food for a while but the Otohime works better for me. I thought I should include the Cyclopleeze for the Orange guys. Time will tell if its enough.
Rob,
You have inspired alot of people here with your thread.
I have just spent the last week reading it, since my Occ's spawned for their first time.
I will be referring back to this thread probably every day.
You have had your ups and downs, highs and lows, and growth of a new part of the hobby.
Sorry to hear of your biggest loss. Time to learn and move forward with the enjoyment.
Wish that you have much success in the hobby and wholesale world.
Please keep us updated when ever you have the chance and time, as we will all enjoy
Rob
You have inspired alot of people here with your thread.
I have just spent the last week reading it, since my Occ's spawned for their first time.
I will be referring back to this thread probably every day.
You have had your ups and downs, highs and lows, and growth of a new part of the hobby.
Sorry to hear of your biggest loss. Time to learn and move forward with the enjoyment.
Wish that you have much success in the hobby and wholesale world.
Please keep us updated when ever you have the chance and time, as we will all enjoy
Rob
Water changes and Lighting
Water changes and Lighting
Rob,
I have to say as soooo many have in the past, thank you for this thread. I have been in the hobby for a long time and have had a reef tank of different sizes over the last 15 years. I have two pairs of Amphiprion percula that are going on 5 yrs old and one pair that have been in our 80G reef tank have been laying eggs for years and the other pair in our 300G reef tank have never laid a single egg! After 2 nights of reading your journey through the clown circus and having so many thrilling times, I am glad you have learned so much along the way and shared it with us. My heart fell on the floor when you went downstairs and saw what you did. I am so glad to read that you have jumped back into what looks like full swing again. I wish you the best of luck with the current brood you have. I was bummed to read the last post only see that there were no more and that I had caught up to yesterday. Like a good book, you just don't want it to end.
I have been setting up a system, much like yours, to try raising some of our own down here in Florida. Someone talk me out of it.:bigeyes:
I was wondering when you stop using water from the parent tank for your water changes and switch to fresh SW? Also, what type of lighting do you have over your larva tanks and what lighting schedule you use on those tanks?
Sorry to be so long winded and thanks again,
Mike
Water changes and Lighting
Rob,
I have to say as soooo many have in the past, thank you for this thread. I have been in the hobby for a long time and have had a reef tank of different sizes over the last 15 years. I have two pairs of Amphiprion percula that are going on 5 yrs old and one pair that have been in our 80G reef tank have been laying eggs for years and the other pair in our 300G reef tank have never laid a single egg! After 2 nights of reading your journey through the clown circus and having so many thrilling times, I am glad you have learned so much along the way and shared it with us. My heart fell on the floor when you went downstairs and saw what you did. I am so glad to read that you have jumped back into what looks like full swing again. I wish you the best of luck with the current brood you have. I was bummed to read the last post only see that there were no more and that I had caught up to yesterday. Like a good book, you just don't want it to end.
I have been setting up a system, much like yours, to try raising some of our own down here in Florida. Someone talk me out of it.:bigeyes:
I was wondering when you stop using water from the parent tank for your water changes and switch to fresh SW? Also, what type of lighting do you have over your larva tanks and what lighting schedule you use on those tanks?
Sorry to be so long winded and thanks again,
Mike
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rkelman
New member
Hi Mike, Thanks for reading. I appreciate it. I hope you have found some usefull information here. I stop using water from the parent tank when I feel the fish are healthy enough to warrant it. Really after 2 weeks you should be fine. Maybe even earlier. After meta they are pretty tough. I use the larvae tank water changes as an excuse to change some water in the broodstock tank depending on my mood and level of laziness at the time. I use normal fluorescent lighting over the larvae and growout tanks. Too much lighting over the larvae tank is detrimental to the feeding ability of the larvae. My lighting schedule is 6:30am to 7:00pm on the growout and 6:30 to 9:00pm on the larvae tanks. The longer period on the larvae tanks just give them more time to feed and allows me more time to get my butt down there
JJ Ocean
New member
Rob,
On the otohime, how do you keep it in suspension long enough for the 8-20 day fish to eat enough of it? I'm good getting my onyx fry on it at 20 days and older, but to feed that at younger ages it seems I would have to put a lot in to adequately feed them - afraid of polluting the system. My onyx in the 8-20 day stage really don't go after food that enthusiastically. I'm still staying with the BBS from 8-20 days because they "linger" the whole time until eaten. I'd prefer to go from rots straight to oto though. Thoughts?
Also after reading your thread, I've started go culturing phyto in the larvae tanks all the way through meta - big increase in survival rates. I'm dosing phyto a little more than tinting though. I also ripped off the paper since you've seen no difference - makes cleaning a ton easier.
BTW - your occs mature WAY faster than my onyx. My hatches are 9 days, meta at 15 days, no hint of second stripe until around day 55 ... big difference from reading your thread and pics. Crazy since as adults they really aren't that different.
Thanks,
John
On the otohime, how do you keep it in suspension long enough for the 8-20 day fish to eat enough of it? I'm good getting my onyx fry on it at 20 days and older, but to feed that at younger ages it seems I would have to put a lot in to adequately feed them - afraid of polluting the system. My onyx in the 8-20 day stage really don't go after food that enthusiastically. I'm still staying with the BBS from 8-20 days because they "linger" the whole time until eaten. I'd prefer to go from rots straight to oto though. Thoughts?
Also after reading your thread, I've started go culturing phyto in the larvae tanks all the way through meta - big increase in survival rates. I'm dosing phyto a little more than tinting though. I also ripped off the paper since you've seen no difference - makes cleaning a ton easier.
BTW - your occs mature WAY faster than my onyx. My hatches are 9 days, meta at 15 days, no hint of second stripe until around day 55 ... big difference from reading your thread and pics. Crazy since as adults they really aren't that different.
Thanks,
John
vaporize
New member
It is typical that all true percula matures much slower than ocellaris (and other species). So it's normal for yours.
rkelman
New member
My guys eat pretty enthusiastically so its not usually a problem. If I get a bunch that sinks to fast I'll stir the tank with my hand to give them another shot at it. It can be hard to tell they are eating it at times when they are very young. I've never raised Percs but your meta / stripe times are pretty typical for Percs as far as I know. I would likely start trying them on A at whatever age you get them eating BBS. Give it a try with one hatch don't give in and feed BBS and see what your survival rates are.
If you ever feel you need rotifers or phyto. Im not far away. I have a good supply of both. Your more then welcome to some.
JJ Ocean
New member
I'll try the no bbs on a later hatch. I'm heading out of the country in June for 16 days, so this will be my last hatch I'll raise until I return. I don't want to leave the house sitter with real small fry. I did the same forced approach with a couple roti hold outs that wouldn't switch to bbs - just stopped the roti and they moved.
Yes, I know the percs grow out is normal, but it still surprises me how fast the occ's go.
BTW - any succes in using Oto A, B or C in an auto feeder? I'm going to try to alter an ehiem one I have, but was looking for any first hand experience. I'd like to feed my fry more than twice a day, but my work schedule doesn't permit ... looking for alternate methods.
Thanks,
John
Yes, I know the percs grow out is normal, but it still surprises me how fast the occ's go.
BTW - any succes in using Oto A, B or C in an auto feeder? I'm going to try to alter an ehiem one I have, but was looking for any first hand experience. I'd like to feed my fry more than twice a day, but my work schedule doesn't permit ... looking for alternate methods.
Thanks,
John
dazed
New member
Rob; sorry to hear about the loss a while back just one of those things; the pictures look great by the way all of mine that i have taken down to either the lfs or to friends tanks have had no problem at all adapting to life with a anemone so i agree i don't think it's an issue with tank raised fish. Good to see that all is moving along.
natep206
Blenniella chrysospilos
Rob,
I've finally finished reading your thread, it was extremely informative and very appriciated. A few years ago I witnessed a large, aggresive, female coral banded shrimp attack and kill a small, male occellaris, so I would not be surprised if the injury on your black male was indeed caused by that gorilla crab. I currently have a female Amphiprion Sandaracinos that mystiriously lost its tail, one night it was a bloddy stumb. And her tail completely healed and there was no discoloration of the dorsal stripe. I have also seen the discoloration of the tail stripe in regualer O's and it was not a result of any injury.
where do you order your rot diet and otohime? I am planning on breeding Amphiprion Melanopus as soon as i locate a sutiable male for my WC lizard island female specimen, any recomendations or suggestions on literature or threads on Melanopus or breeding clowns in general are greatly appriciated. how are the orange babies doin? I can't wait to see the fully developed colors of the black and whites and the oranges together in growout!
Thanks,
Nate
I've finally finished reading your thread, it was extremely informative and very appriciated. A few years ago I witnessed a large, aggresive, female coral banded shrimp attack and kill a small, male occellaris, so I would not be surprised if the injury on your black male was indeed caused by that gorilla crab. I currently have a female Amphiprion Sandaracinos that mystiriously lost its tail, one night it was a bloddy stumb. And her tail completely healed and there was no discoloration of the dorsal stripe. I have also seen the discoloration of the tail stripe in regualer O's and it was not a result of any injury.
where do you order your rot diet and otohime? I am planning on breeding Amphiprion Melanopus as soon as i locate a sutiable male for my WC lizard island female specimen, any recomendations or suggestions on literature or threads on Melanopus or breeding clowns in general are greatly appriciated. how are the orange babies doin? I can't wait to see the fully developed colors of the black and whites and the oranges together in growout!
Thanks,
Nate
rkelman
New member
I'm glad you've enjoyed it Nate. I agree it may have been the Gorilla. Who knows. I get my Otohime and Rotifer Diet from Reeds. They are great. MOFIB would probably be your best bet for info on the Melanopus. The orange babies are great they are 3/4" long now nose to tail. I doubt I'll mix the 2 clowns.. I had them mixed before but had to separate them because the orange guys were hogging all the food and the smaller black ones were starving. When they get bigger I have a feeling the black guys would be beating the orange ones up. They were a real pain to separate.
natep206
Blenniella chrysospilos
I can't imagine seperating those, did your circumstances allow you to wait for the black ones to darken up before you had to make the move?
How large is a saleable size in your market? and how long does it take juviniles to reach this size? and whats your average clutch size? I appriciate all your help, Have your brood returned to regularly spawning yet?
thanks,
Nate:spin1:
How large is a saleable size in your market? and how long does it take juviniles to reach this size? and whats your average clutch size? I appriciate all your help, Have your brood returned to regularly spawning yet?
thanks,
Nate:spin1:
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