my house reef (211 g.)

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7175968#post7175968 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by h20cooled
Simon,
I agree that T5's are the way to go, I'm in the planning stage now to upgrade my tank from the 50g to a 120g. I will be getting rid of the mh and going to only T5 lighting.

From what I have read it seems that T5HOs are only good for up to a 23" tall tank ? I did see a comment by Grim that MH will penetrate further into the tank than T5HOs, but he didn't have time to clarify that statement (before he was "ejected" :(). Grim also tested an MH 150 against his T5HOs at 18" and the T5s had 52% more PAR, but most people with larger tanks use MH 250s at least, so that data really doesn't help alot when you get down around 22" - 26". Does anyone know the real numbers for what depth T5s are capable of penetrating to support SPS (acros, not just digis) and clams (at least a maxima maybe even a crocea) ?

I am also in the planning stage for a larger tank and am on the fence between T5HOs and MH (all really depending on the depth limitations of T5s). Any info or assistance will be greatly appreciated.

P.S. I do plan to use IC ballasts, so the T5HOs will be overdriven
 
Manufactorers claim 80cm depth for T5s - IME of T5s - higher is better for the high light need acros - however I'v just fragged some colonies and placed them at bottom, middle and high to test out the claims - will report back in a couple of months with b/a pics.

Iwan seems to have got better color with max side to side and front to back coverage - and there are some acros and clams in the bottom area of his tank.

Cheers

Simon
 
right, I saw the clams on Iwans, but his tank is 23" tall, and it has a sand bed, so the clams are likely 20" - 22" from the top. I think that I read that he put in a 4" DSB, but we know that clams don't rest right on the surface, they tend to dig down a little.

So from the manufacturers claims, then 23" is the max.....
 
I am starting a 265 31'' deep and will only have t5's . I will be using advance ballasts because the t5 life on ice cap is more around 4-5 months. at least the ones on my 125 are dead that fast. I have to get at least 9 months or they just won't be worth it. I will for sure post it here on rc after I change over to the new tank. it's almost ready.
 
Has anybody investigated the Nova Extreme T5?
They're fan cooled with integrated moon lights.
I'm not sure though if they have individual reflectors.
 
Sparkss,
Most likely the tank I will be upgrading to will be a 120G which is a 4'x2'x2' I will be lighting it will 8 T5's on the Icecap 660 ballasts which will overdrive the 54w bulbs up to around 80w. This should be more then enough light for SPS and clams. I'm actually thinking about going with a tank that is 30" tall to allow for lower light corals on the bottom.

Rich
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7182645#post7182645 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Sparkss

So from the manufacturers claims, then 23" is the max.....

Manfacturers claims 31" (80cm) is the max....
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7183896#post7183896 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by coraladdict
Has anybody investigated the Nova Extreme T5?
They're fan cooled with integrated moon lights.
I'm not sure though if they have individual reflectors.
No, this fixture only has a large single reflector for all the bulbs. I had a 36" Nova Extreme fixture and the light output is ok for low light but not for anything requiring high light. I replaced it with fixture from Aquactinics. They are a sponsor here on forum and make a very high quality product. HTH
Carla
 
Coraladdict, Aquactinic uses Miro IV aluminum (same as IceCap reflectors). These have 95% reflectivity. I have a 36" fixture with 5 T5 bulbs. It has builtin fans that are extremely quiet. It also has a shield to keep saltspray off bulbs. Very well made/high quality fixture.
Carla
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7185905#post7185905 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TryTheChi
Manfacturers claims 31" (80cm) is the max....

Thanks for correcting my misunderstanding. I would like to ask one point of clarification of you if I could. Is that 80 CM from the light itself or from the surface of the water (assuming the lights are the typical 3" - 6" from the surface) ?

On a separate note, for a 60" long tank (planning to be 28" - 30" tall) would 48" bulbs be preferred ? or 60" ones ? I ask because Iwan's is a 70" tank using 60" bulbs, so the 5 inches on either side is most likely coverd by "sideways" light from the bulbs ?

Again, I will be using an IC 660 so the bulbs will be overdriven.


BTW, to the thread starter, Iwan, your site and tank and this thread are an inspiration. I have sent the links to both to several reef tank enthusiast friends and many of us are considering your setup decisions for new tanks that we had been planning. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge and experiences with us. And thank you to everyone else that participates in this thread for sharing (and educating) as well. :)
 
Same here, first week and after first dose of Booster, pocillopora, a couple frags and (I think) a small formosa colony. The later I suspect some boring green alge helped it along.
 
You guys are scaring me...after paying all that cash the Prodibio is causing RTN? This is not the first time I have read abou that happening. I wonder whether you really have to start it slowly so the corals get used to it? Since they rely on photosynthetic bacteria and can eject them under conditions of stress, it may be that the corals are ejecting but do not have enough of a selection within the system to get new bacteria. Just a thought...
 
FWIW... I have had no problems of RTNing from dosing prodibio products. I also have not had any reduction in PO4 either. The only difference I can see is a slight increase in skimmer production + reduced chaeto growth. This leads me to believe the product is helping. I will soon discontinue use of the product to see if the conditions change any.

For me, the jury is still out on its overall effectiveness.
 
I don't think it's supposed to reduce PO4 levels? My understanding is that it's used to create a low nutrient environment via increased bacteria feeding off those nutrients which would help with lowering nitrate but not PO4.....?
 
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