My Neptune Apex web interface compatible DIY reef controller
- Thread starter d0ughb0y
- Start date
http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/6148211387.html
It shows a square end as well, like the eBay one. I realized the Jebao has the triangle notch. This was the one, a local reefer purchases, and uses to make the cables for the Apex.
It shows a square end as well, like the eBay one. I realized the Jebao has the triangle notch. This was the one, a local reefer purchases, and uses to make the cables for the Apex.
I actually got 2 x WP10's (building a 40G Breeder Tank) with Controllers. I paid $90 for the set on eBay last week. I actually have one of the controllers with me at work on my desk. Thought I would take it apart when I wasn't busy. Worse case I can always take the cabling from the Controller.
yes that is the wrong temp sensor, The only way to used something like that is to make it water proof
d0ughb0y
Active member
yes you need the second one.
If you do get the second one like the one in your link, make sure to coat the metal with platidip or similar coating. salt water will corrode the stainless steel of these temp probes.
or if you get 5, you can replace every 6 months or so. I think my first one lasted 7 months. You know its bad when you start getting random temp readings.
Also, your link is for probe with 1meter cable. That is too should. Look for another listing for the same probe, but with 2 meter cable.
The other option is get the one from sparkfun, it comes with 6ft cable.
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11050
If you do get the second one like the one in your link, make sure to coat the metal with platidip or similar coating. salt water will corrode the stainless steel of these temp probes.
or if you get 5, you can replace every 6 months or so. I think my first one lasted 7 months. You know its bad when you start getting random temp readings.
Also, your link is for probe with 1meter cable. That is too should. Look for another listing for the same probe, but with 2 meter cable.
The other option is get the one from sparkfun, it comes with 6ft cable.
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11050
Utah Fatman
New member
Pull off the chip, solder some wires to it and pack it in a cheap pen case then seal with silicone. Works like a champ and you can have it done in 20 minutes. Or I have a factory one that I can send you free, just PM me the address.
Fat
chucklez
New member
Hmm. Kind of like that idea. I have one of those translucent neon colored plastic shot glass things from wife's Texas Roadhouse margarita I been planning on turning into bristleworm trap. I can repurpose it for use as a thermometer. Stylish AND thrifty.
Doughboy - I've had my temperature reading go to 32 three times now, and each time I've had to swap the sensor with another one in order for it to start reading correctly. Looking in the log, it seems to have happened when the power went out and the controller started up with a message in the log that the temp init failed. The sensors are all new, and I've been able to swap them back and forth after this happened the first time so it doesnt appear to be a problem with the sensor or wiring. Have you seen anything like this happen to you before? BTW - I'm using your latest build but this problem started prior to that. Any ideas?
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!
d0ughb0y
Active member
Do you have the 3.3k pullup resistor connected between pin D48 and +5 pin?
The only other thing that can cause this is loose connection.
Try running the OneWire example for ds18b20 that came with arduino install. Make sure to change the onewire pin number to 48. Make sure the temperature is displaying correctly using this test program. If not, continue looking for the loose connection.
You get a reading of 32 if the program is unable to read anything from the sensor.
I tried the sample program and it displays the correct temperature, and then when I reload the program the temperature works again - so I was assuming it was something in the code causing this. It's very intermittent, but next time it happens I'll troubleshoot it in more detail.
d0ughb0y
Active member
see my post #675. From looking at the picture, it looks like the same 5v PWM.
I still have not decided if I should get a DC-3000 or 6000. I currently use an eheim 1260 set at about 70%. I figure at 4ft head height, the flow rate I'm getting with the current pump is about 300-320gph.
I believe the 3000 costs like $72 shipped and 6000 costs $108 shipped.
d0ughb0y
Active member
In theory, if the chauvet temp code is unmodified and configured properly, there should be no difference between that and the OneWire sample sketch. If it works on one, it will work on the other. In case it is not working on both, then you know its a hardware issue. But if it works on one but not the other, then it is a software issue.
Same goes for all the other components (ultrasonic, lcd, atlas sensor). So best if you can keep all your individual component test sketch in a separate folder. For feeder, ATO and PWM, you have to rely on the chauvet program for testing. I think I might have a feeder test program somewhere. I'll post it if I can find it.
thank you d0ughb0y
i was had same issue for the temperature reading 32
also after 5 min my apex hang and my relay switch ON OFF and LCD Flashing
i do not know why ?
after i put fan in side the box to cool the Arduino
all problem solve
may be the heat is the problem
todddye
can you try to cool your apex
thanks all
i was had same issue for the temperature reading 32
also after 5 min my apex hang and my relay switch ON OFF and LCD Flashing
i do not know why ?
after i put fan in side the box to cool the Arduino
all problem solve
may be the heat is the problem
todddye
can you try to cool your apex
thanks all
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