My own AEFW (Acro Eating Flatworms) images

Well that is good to know. I wouldn't mind testing shipping corals to someone with interceptor in it. Use the formula for the 6 hr dip so it's less and then see how it works. Might be something us reefers can pay an extra 5 bucks for and know we are getting dip shipped(try saying that super FAST!!! :) ) corals.
 
stoneys way

stoneys way

I did the triple dip method about a week ago and the results speak for themselves all the acros diped are doing fine and have fpe . very little if any color change and seemed to have zero stress to the colonies. I have exprimented with qt tank, some went right back to the main system and some I put in a qt situation just to see if any return in the main system. like I said before stoneys method works great ,got no reason to try any other way:D
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8142301#post8142301 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jay24k
Well that is good to know. I wouldn't mind testing shipping corals to someone with interceptor in it. Use the formula for the 6 hr dip so it's less and then see how it works. Might be something us reefers can pay an extra 5 bucks for and know we are getting dip shipped(try saying that super FAST!!! :) ) corals.
Click to expand...

Sounds good to me but like someone else said, you might run into problems if your shipping somithing on a rock full of life and you have alot of microcritter death during shipment. On another note, you would have to shipping regulations and see if this would be considered a "Haz Mat" shipment. If a bag broke open during shipment, it could potentially leak pestacide all over other packages/mail. I would just check with UPS/FED EX and see what they say. OR....don't tell them :)

Glad to hear it's working for you Redox, keep us updated with your progress and findings!:rollface:
 
Well the amount of heard worm medicine in the bag would be so minimal I would think. I think this would work best with frag plugs or fresh cut frags.
 
Everything going good here. Im ancy to get them back into my tank b/c I haven't seen any since dip# 1. Im trying to hold out....ahhhhhhh! :).
My Valida frags are starting to encrust so there doing good. Still very little color in the valida frag that was bare but it has FPE day and night.
As soon as I put my stuff back in the display I am going to set my QT tank up as an experimental pest tank. Im going to look for AEFW infected colonies, ask local reefers for some RB's and try out some new stuff. Eventually, I will find an intank treatment for the aefw's. I also have a good idea of some products other than interceptor that could have less of an effect on your system. All in good time. I have like 5 tanks right now, how many more will there be???? :D :D :D
a91c368a.jpg
 
I did a dip with the fluke tabs base on the recipe from Stoney, I did this dip in alomost 80% of my corals and was happy to have found nothing, however, the other night after visiting a friend we found a heavy infestation of FW in his tank, I was able to retrive a few live FW and bring them home with me, I prepared a solution with the fluke tabs, identical concentrations but only a quart of water, I introduced tha FW in this solutions and to my surprise after almost 1 hour of dipping they were still alive! I was bumped about this finding.
Has anybody other than Stoney seen the FW die after 20 minutes?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8161498#post8161498 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Rogger Castells
I did a dip with the fluke tabs base on the recipe from Stoney, I did this dip in alomost 80% of my corals and was happy to have found nothing, however, the other night after visiting a friend we found a heavy infestation of FW in his tank, I was able to retrive a few live FW and bring them home with me, I prepared a solution with the fluke tabs, identical concentrations but only a quart of water, I introduced tha FW in this solutions and to my surprise after almost 1 hour of dipping they were still alive! I was bumped about this finding.
Has anybody other than Stoney seen the FW die after 20 minutes?
Click to expand...
Are this AEFW ?
 
Yes the aefw died very quickly in the fluke tab treatments......red planaria took longer to finally kick the bucket. How many tablets did you use?
 
Somewhere in here I read that you do not recommend using tank water to setup a QT tank because the water may contain the flatworms, which makes sense. But that leads me to believe that you arent allowing your QT to go thru a cycle?? Is that the case?

We have a frag swap coming up in 2 weeks and I have an extra 20g tank I wouldnt mind setting up for a QT...
 
I think you would want to start the qt with tank water, but subsequent water changes would not be from the main tank.
 
Rogger Castells- I can only think of a few things.......
1- You might have got mixed up when recalculating the dose(im not doubting your intelliigence :) )
2- There are more than 1 type of AEFW and the treatment does not effect the type you have(which would really suck)
3- I used a 5 gallon bucket with 4 tabs....when mixed up the tabs are suspended in the water column and I place my corals in. Imeadiately some of the heavier particles start to fall through the water column. In a 5 gallon bucket with corals in the bottom/bottom half, the concentration of the pestacides could actually be stronger than if you used a quart container.

Again, I am just throwing some ideas out there b/c mine were falling off the corals within 10 minutes. Good luck man, let us know if you find anything else out. Pictures would be awesome if you can get ahold of a digi :).

Treg:
I did not let mine properly cycle, but it is BB, and I used W/D filter from a different established system. If I had my choice, I would have had it up and running long before if I knew I was going to have to break everything down but it seemed to happen almost overnight...or at least over a week. The longer you can let it cycle the better. IMO you could use tank water if you ran it through a 30 or less micron filter sock and then let it run in you QT tank for a week or so. I would think that it would filter out any eggs that somehow could be floating around in the water column and any fw's small enough to get through those holes should starve to death in a short period of time with no acro flesh. I don't know how long AEFW's can survive w/o acro flesh but if they are small enough to get through that filter sock then that would be an early stage in their development and I would think that they would need to eat or starve. They don't swim so they should'nt be floating around in the water anyways :).

Melev- Did you ever try out the tabs? I think I remember you said you had some on the way but I was not sure if you got them yet.
 
I WOULD use tank water for QT water changes as you can kill all you acros by not using water that is biologically in balance from your tank. Trust me on this one ... I learned the hard way!
 
Guys, we just had Mitch Carl lecture at our monthly meeting (Boston Reefers). He indicated that he had experience with AEFW and was one of the folks pioneering the Levamisole treatment. He was able to pull and clean all of his acros without a loss using the dosage he's recommended.

One of the bits of trivia he mentioned was that there are two types of AEFW. One that does not lay eggs, and one that does. He's only ever had the type that do not lay eggs.

I am wondering if the fluke tab treatment only works on non egg laying AEFWs. Do those of you that have used fluke tabs ever find egg masses on corals?

I know my own AEFW lay eggs and have died in the most beautiful manner in 3ml Betadine/liter for 25 min.

I am about to start my own AEFW treatment and QT using betadine dips 2x a week until I do not see any worms for two consecutive weeks in the QT system. I also plan to set up two separate QT systems to ensure that I can santize the system before putting coral back in them.

Wish me luck and please share your thougts on the 2 diff AEFW theory.

Has anyone figured out how long to let the display system remain fallow to ensure there's no re-infection by remaining eggs/worms?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8162596#post8162596 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Neptune777
Yes the aefw died very quickly in the fluke tab treatments......red planaria took longer to finally kick the bucket. How many tablets did you use?
Click to expand...

I used approx 125 mg of powder dissolved in 1qt of tank water and I did as follows.
I crushed 1/4 of the 500mg tablet in a mortar to dust then I dissolve the powder by shaking it strongly in a Ziploc bag with some of the water until the powder was completely dissolved and the water was cloudy, there were no traces of un-dissolved powder,

I then poured this slurry into the 1qt container and mixed well, I placed approx 100 mm of this water into a Petri dish and carefully transfer the AEFW into this shallow container, I observed the FW get to the bottom of the container regain the shape and started moving,
I thought it will be a matter of time to start seeing them curling and dying but after almost an hour later they continue to have a grip on the container and although you could not see movement, when I inspected them closely with an 8x lab magnifier I could clearly see that there were still moving the edge of the mantle.
I could not stay up any longer cause I had to work early the next day so I stopped any further testing and I don’t have any more AEFW to try again.
I am going to try getting some more from my friend next week and try again.
 
Maurod- If you look back through the pics, you will see that I had the egg laying type and that what I killed with the fluke tabs.

I don't have anymore to play with and I am going on vacation in a few days but when I get back I am going looking for some AEFW's. I am really not sure why they didn't work for you Roger.
 
Stoney, there's way too many pages for me to have read back through. I am really hoping the fluke tabs work, an in QT tank treatment is far easier than dipping.

Maybe I'll try them as a test on a piece I know has AEFW and see what happens.

M.
 
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