My Tank Thread (Take3) ★Total AUTOMATION★ DIY Doser, Sump, AlgaeScrubber, WaterChnges

NEW LIGHTING (Setup/Schedule) 250W @ 12" & RoomLight/No High-Power-LED

35594623494_b33b58c191.jpg
 
ONE GTAreef (Healthy SPS Test Frag) for 250W Lighting Change

It's hard to come home empty handed when visiting GTAreef like I did today.

So I did bring home this Deep Blue Acro to test in the New Tank Setup (Higher Circulation & Lighting).

Fresh Cut from Healthy Colony, so no excuses that this is a recovery effort.

36039356250_7e7710a2b4_b.jpg


Placed a little higher than Mid Tank to ensure it's in the Good Flow & Par Area.

Let's see how it does.
 
LAST Challenge (Conversion to ESV dosing from AF Comp123)

I have a week to monitor ALK/CALC before I depart. Mag is of no concern based on past testing.

I'm draining the Doser from AF Component 123 and Filling Two Containers with ESV ALK/CALC. (Last item on Big Ed's recommendation list)

Not sure if I'll just do a water change before I leave, or start dosing.
That will depend on ALK depletion rate that I observe.
Safer to not dose till I get back, or dose minimal.

However I've decided to no longer try to Keep ALK at 7.5.
The closest I got was 7.7 with my Salt Levels.

So I'm going with ALK=8.0 as my new Target, with Balanced CALC=418. Roughly 420ppm.

This will be easy with the Tropic Maurin Pro Salt.
 
Kitchen Mixed Tank (SPS Update) New Add

So things in Frag Tanks are so-so. But only damaged or left over pieces in there.

I move more more SPS into Kitchen Tank to see if it can be saved there.

Reason is everything is Kitchen Mixed tanks is doing fine.

36283734862_75659b7826_c.jpg


Will be interested to see their progress over time.

NOT a Single one has gotten worse. All originals are showing some PE.
I do have their Exact names in my records somewhere (Not important now).

My expectation is they won't grow much with Low Lighting/Circulation, but if they recover to health, then I can move them into SPS Tank.
 
SAND BED Removal (Exposes All Live Stock) Lost/Thought Missing Specimens

With Sand Bed Gone, I can really see everything, including bottom areas under rocks.

I thought the Blue Green Chromis which I rescued from Kitchen Tank was dead weeks ago.
He is living nicely in a Cave.

It's been months since I've seen the FireGoby. I thought he jumped out.
Just saw him flickering amongst the rocks.

Sand Snails are hanging around small patches of left over sand.

So this is my Live Stock in the 65 Gallon Tank.
Explains why skimmer is still producing a lot of Thick Skim Daily, even with Algae Scrubber slowed down.

All photos are ACTUAL Tank Inhabitants. Only Firefly Goby is a Google Grab since impossible to get a picture.

36284830402_b06b10c65a_b.jpg
 
Concern about (Nassarius and Pearl) Sand Snails !!!

So now that the Large Nassarius snail (Size of my Thumb) and Pretty Large Pearl Snail are exposed will they do ok without much sand?

I could put them in my Refuge which has a 2-3 inch sandbed, but it gets no food at all (so could be worse).

Do I leave them and they will adapt and keep the little pocket of Sand under Rocks sparkling clean?

Or do I remove them and take back to store before they die and polute my tank?

I did a bit of searching on the Forums and people have kept both in BB tanks since they will just live under rocks etc, and eat the left over food.

So they might be ok and still beneficial.

The may not get the best sleep, but better than in the wild where if exposed will be eaten, which brings a another concern, are they now safe exposed with the Hermits prowling around.
 
REMOVING (Two Large Hermit Crabs) They go into Refuge

I've decided I will remove the 2 Large Hermit Crabs from DT.

The variety of Snails I have will suffice for both Tank Glass Walls, Glass Bottom for left over food, and little of sand that remains.

Hermits kill snails for their shells, and I've seen them clinging to my SPS.

I have a few snails in Sump and I've watched them do good work on the Night Timelapse camera, so not a place for the Hermits either.

Hermits will go into Refuge when I don't have snails.
Some food does get in there Via the Fill Pump.

If they die of starvation, so be it. Stores around here don't give any trade in credit for Crabs.
 
Hermits Moving to (Hotel Heaven) Rubble Refuge

Caught First Hermit out of 4. Small one. Jam packed into small Cerith Snail Shell.

35630738694_aa87fef1a5_n.jpg


But after 2nd look, The Rubble Refuge will be Nice for Hermits.

36328750921_923c1d7a37_c.jpg


Loaded with Past Snail Shells, every size Imaginable.

Hermit is already checking out the future Home upgrade options.
 
Last edited:
I'm not familiar with your ballast, but from what I know of people with those type of ballasts they end up running the HQi setting.

For color later on you may decide you want to try a Radium bulb as well............ it's also designed for an HQI ballast. For now though, what you have should color and grow coral fine.

Read this link, it will help you better understand what I'm talking about.
Scroll down to 250w.

https://premiumaquatics.com/articles/radium

Thanks Ed,

I did read up on the Radium Bulb.
It appears to be a CLASSIC, and highly rated.

However I'm out of luck with my 150-250W LuxCore Ballast. (Which is a good CoralVue product in general)

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=25480

36331043871_b6b4e01d81_o.jpg


The Radium bulb appears to need HQI (Magnetic) to run, or at least an Electronic HQI compatible Ballast.

If I had the 250-400W LuxCor Ballast I'd be ok.
Another Small problem with 250W Radium is I'd need to convert my Double Ended to Single Ended connectors in the fixture.

The specs on the Pheonix 250W 14K Bulb appear to be compatible with my Ballast.

https://www.soslightbulbs.com/product/lighting/aquarium/14-000k/phoenix-14k-250w-double-ended-metal-halide-lamp/

36422556896_a47ea842a6.jpg


I did read up on the 250W OverDrive (Super Lumens) setting.
I can use it to get the Extra PARS, but it will cut my bulb life to HALF.

BTW. The new Light Schedule at 250W 12" (6 hours) looks promising.

I was expecting an increase in Film Algae on Glass with higher Lighting Intensity.
However the opposite is happening.. Algae film is slowing down.
Must be the overall reduced Photo Period, and I'm making better use of Lighting (higher intensity for proper period ON).

Even that pathetic Pink Millie (in above photo of past) is now showing PE :)
 
Last edited:
Whoops sorry, my mistake, I was thinking SE bulbs. You have the DE Phoenix bulbs which are fine. They have a long history of successful coloration and growth of acros. I assume you have the glass inserts/splash guards in place?

On the 450nm LEDs...........it's not that they are bad it's just that any singular spectrum can have a diminishing returns effect. People will go overboard with this and it can cause problems. Not every acro likes/needs 450 blue. Many pigments and chromo proteins color up/grow better under various other spectrums.
 
Whoops sorry, my mistake, I was thinking SE bulbs. You have the DE Phoenix bulbs which are fine. They have a long history of successful coloration and growth of acros. I assume you have the glass inserts/splash guards in place?

On the 450nm LEDs...........it's not that they are bad it's just that any singular spectrum can have a diminishing returns effect. People will go overboard with this and it can cause problems. Not every acro likes/needs 450 blue. Many pigments and chromo proteins color up/grow better under various other spectrums.

Ed, Perfect.

I did purchase the Phoenix 250DE's based on MANY good reviews.

Bumping them up to 250W as they should be running is a positive move.
And yes the fixture has UV/Splash Glass Plate.

12" for now till I get back from Vacation and rent the Quantum meter for Final Lowering of Fixture.

I like the reduced photo Period by adding the timer to the Basement Sump Room Ceiling Light VS all day Accent lighting via Offset Schedule on T5's. Appears to be helping with Film algae build up.

Everything is now locked down (no further changes needed).

So now I'm all setup for a period of wait and watch.
 
Last edited:
10 DAYS Later (Green Slimer) Comparison (DT, FragTank, Mixed TANK)

Photo Shows results.

35654860514_8d5609b135_c.jpg


Good News is SPS DT is doing nice.

Frag Tank needs work (Everything is going BROWN)
No concern. No Effort is being put in on Frag Tank at this point.

Interesting to see Kitchen Mixed Tank is not bad at all.
 
DOSING a MUST!! (During Week Away) Starting ESV Buff 1/2

So ALK is dropping and that means I can't leave tank without dosing while away for 7 days.

Things to could pick up with New Improved Lighting and Alk consumption could accelerate.

Based on EVS bottle the recommended starting dose is 1ml per 4 GALS.
That translates to 22ml per Day for my 90 Gallon System.
Not willing to Risk that much since I'm not 100% on Alk Consumption.

Using the Reef Chemistry Calculator
http://reef.diesyst.com/chemcalc/chemcalc.html

I punched in 0.125 dKh Top Up, and this would required 5ml of ESV Part 1.

I'm dosing 5ml per day till Sunday and will decide on final Dose before departing.

Even if Alk were not to drop 0.125 Daily... 5ml per day would only raise Alk 0.875 dKh. (Which won't happen)

I'm currently at 7.5-7.7 dKh so it would rise (worst case) to 8.375, but it won't increase that much since ALK is being consumed.

So 5ml Per Day is a very Safe Dosing Start.
(The Most I am willing to go is 10ml/Day and will decide in a couple of days)
 
Some NOT SO ADVANCED (Vacation Protection) Skimmer Overflow Reservoir

Every time I go away for a longer trip I come back to a Over Full Skimmer. Not ideal if happens Early.
Usually caused by Neighbour over feeding fish

(Not inviting neighbour this time, since setting up Pellet Auto Feeder with the Blink Light Programming).

This time I want the Tank to not experience any preventable problems, since things appear to be on track.

36494477335_3f541b370d.jpg


This is how much my Skimmer Skims Daily, even with the Algae Scrubber which has now pretty well stopped.

I drilled the Skimmer Cup ages ago, and the New Sump with Glass Lid Shelf allows me to have this mini Reservoir to handle 3x the Normal Cup Skim Capacity.
 
Last edited:
Battery Backup UPS (Critical Component Reconfig) for Vacation Absence.

Almost ever time I go away, we have an Power Failure that messes up my Apex Classic. It loses it Time and it's set for Auto Date.

I called Apex Support and it may need firmware update. Too late for that now.


I re-cabled my UPS Battery Backup, to ensure my critical Components stay up.

-> House Internet Router and LAN switch .
-> One Cloud Camera that watches Sump room
-> Both Apex controllers won't reboot
-> Skimmers stay on since they can sometime not restart.
-> No need for Lights to Drain Battery for a short Power Interrupt.

With this simpler setup, my Battery/UPS could probably handle quite a few hours without Power.

36506753455_460a4a00d4_z.jpg


And I tested a Power Failure simulation to make sure it's all correct.


WHY ALL THE FUSS THIS TIME.

Things always go wrong when I'm away.....

and this is another reason. I noticed that even after a few days at new Lighting/Circulation, the Corals are really starting to look good.

Don't want to ruin the positive move forward while away.

36506754385_58cea1b5af_c.jpg


All I have left to do is Auto Feeders for Fish.
 
Last edited:
Final Pieces (Vacation Tank Automation/Monitoring) Completed

The tank is out of my hands. All the Automation I need is in place for a week away.

36117040080_6c42cdb4e7_c.jpg


With the Remote Controller PAN/Tilt Cloud WEB Cam, I can watch the Sump room and DT/Frag Tank. Another Cam is in Kitchen.
I can even tune in (From 1500 Miles away) at Scheduled Feeding Time, and see Lights Flash before Flakes/Pelletd Fall in. Fish should be at Feeder Station.

I could even Schedule in a Water Change, but no point pushing one's Luck.

Hoping to come back to SPS DT moving positively forwards.

When I watch it daily, not much changes.
 
Last edited:
AquaForest (Magnesium Test Kit) Great!

I'm glad I got the AquaForest test kit last time I was not trusting the Salifert giving me high readings.

Tonight MAG on Salifert showed Off the Scale (>1500), which had me concerned, but not trusting at all.

I tested with the AquaForest and got the more reasonable 1380 reading.

36117676340_dc89af72b4_z.jpg


It's actually exactly the same steps as Salifert, even the result table.

But it comes with an Extra (B) Solution. which is one Extra Easy Step.

-> You measure Calcium First.
-> Then Based on Calcium Measurement Reading, you add so many Drops of A Solution. (1-5 drops)
-> B drops are the same each time.

What's also nice with the Test Kit is it comes with a MG reference Sample to ensure the kit is reading properly.

To me the extra Cost is Worth it, since I got a reading I could trust
(and that is peace of mind).
 
Last edited:
Always do a 1 Day DRY RUN (ON Vacation Setup) Catastrophe Averted.

So it's a good thing I setup things one day before leaving, since today I had a problem.

When I moved over electrical stuff to Battery UPS, and some things to Utility Power, power was distributed differently.

Today at 5pm when MH Lights came on the GFCI Circuit Breaker Tripped.

This caused Return Pumps on Both Tank to Shut off.

Yet the Power Heads/GyrePumps kept running on both tanks. This caused a massive bubble swirl in the Tanks as water level dropped. Lots of splashing too!!

I FOUND THE CAUSE (and resolved it).
When MH lights turn on the Initial Bulb Firing is higher Voltage and Higher Current for about 1 minute. That was too much for the breaker when both MH lights turned on at same time (new setting).

I staggered the MH Light startup by 5 minutes, and as extra precaution I move the Return Pump to a separate breaker.

I also lowered the Power Heads to be below the water line should Return pump stop and tank drain into sump like what happened today.

I tested a few times and all is good.

I also called over the Neighbour and showed him how to reset the breaker should it happened.

I will be on Airplane in about 12 hours from now.
 
Back from Week Away (Nothing Went Wrong :) ) Higher Lighting appears to be Good :):)

Yes, I ran to the tank first thing as entered the house.

So all the automation and failsafe vacation setup worked this time.

Alk only dropped to 7.3 dKH so my 5ml a day dosing was pretty close.

All corals intact and some actually improving, which appears to be the result of the Higher Lighting (MH lights at 250W 12").

I can tell the higher lighting is what the SPS frags needed since I see green fluorescence background colors within the Frag Coloration (something I kept losing on new Frag Purchases).

I'm gong to rent the Quantum Meter again, to increase lighting a touch more.

I may have a few pics from Turks Snorkelling. The SD card failed to read in my Laptop, but it showed pictures in Camera, so hoping things are ok.
 
Back
Top