My Tank Thread (Take3) ★Total AUTOMATION★ DIY Doser, Sump, AlgaeScrubber, WaterChnges

[Wally.B]

Snorkelling Photo's (IkeLite Camera Housing with Canon S95 Point & Shoot Camera) Turk and Caicos (Blight Reef @ Coral Gardens)

So the Ikelite with the Canon S95 was worth every penny.

In past with regular underwater camera all I got was blurry, bluish, colorless photos.

I learned that taking Photos while Snorkeling isn't that easy.
You are kind of stuck floating at the top, and getting close-ups is pretty tough as you attempt to dive under and stay stable.

Can't imagine what I get if I did real diving where you can submerge much more stable.

However these are some shot I got.

(These were all practice shots I did on first Reef Visits, since on 2nd visit I brought my camera to take better photos, but Battery was dead, and I left spares in room )
We never went for a 3rd trip since time was limited and other things to do.


This gives you idea of the Reef (which is just a walk in from shore)

Notice the Trigger Fish in the middle.

I tried to chase down a scoot of Blue/Purple tangs (there were like 200). I got a fringe shot of the school

There were many of these Brain Corals

A close-up (had to dive down and hold steady for this shot) NICE POLYPS!!

For me the Most Spectacular part of the Reef were the Purple Sea Fans

I couldn't get enough of the Tangs

This one of the nicer shots of a Parrot Fish (There were Clusters of 4-5 of them, chopping on rocks)

That is for the Reef Snorkeling Photo's.

 

[Wally.B]

At the Beach (Couple of Interesting Photos with IkeLite Camera)

This shot is of a Massive School of Fish passing by right on our Beach Shore

They would pass by every once in a while. The school would flow in spectacular flowing waves (Sometimes like a river flowing, and other patterns)

This is A Shot of my Son in the School (They would form a perfect circle around you.)

And there was a reason they liked us humans.

It was for protection from this guy, that would follow the School and occasionally have a Meal or two....

The IkeLite Housing was great since it allow me to be more liberal with my camera on the Beach & in Water (no worries damaging Camera).

Got this Nice Sunset Shot just at the surface of the water

Vacation was great (Perfect weather). Did everything we wanted, and it's nice to be home to take care of Tank again.

 

[Wally.B]

And my Boring SPS Tank (After a Week away), but it Survived

The new coral I got bleached, but the rest are doing well.
The Green Monti, Green Slimer, Red Planet and a few others are Showing some Serious PE.

The Mix Tank SPS corals are mostly good. One did bleach.

And the biggest suprize is the Left Over Corals Frag Pieces I gave up on in the Frag Tank look really Good. I only left the Custom LED on them. Turn off the MH lights.
At least I have something to play with since SPS DT is (Hands off).

 

[Wally.B]

A few SPS Close ups (Par Meter Rented) Before Increasing Lighting.

I picked up the Apogee Meter to do a Full Detailed TANK PAR Mapping.

For my reference a few Healthy Frags to compare later.

The Green Slimer, Bonsai, Purple Acro, and a Encrusted Digitata (which hasn't sprouted a Branch Ever)

The Red Planet

And the Green Monti

 

[reefmutt]

Nice Wally!
The sps look pretty good and your vacation shots are great!
Glad everything went according to plan.

 

[Wally.B]

FINAL Lighting Adjustment (PAR Meter Readings) Good Even Par Distribution

That Apogee PAR meter is really handy. I learned more about tank to make better Lighting changes.


1) Moved the Custom LED out of way of MH lights (Better Spread now)

2) Added a 2nd Proper T5 Reflector to front T5

And with these changes, I can keep Fixture at 11-12" which gives better Spread, but Pars are Higher (I think PARS shown below are Ideal).

Tank does certainly Look more Brighter, Crisper and colorful (Due to Full MH spread, and T5 Reflector on ATI Blue Plus).

Will do a more detailed mapping while I have the PAR Meter.

 

[Wally.B]

FRAG TANK (1st Try) Lessons Learned

So the Frag Tank is a bit of Hair Algae Mess.

Main reason is all the Coral Food, and almost zero maintenance (Hardly any Water Changes or Glass Cleaning, etc)

OR MAYBE IT's part of AGING A NEW TANK.

It was worth the try (to learn how it runs) without any important Frags in it (but they are not too bad).

Time to clean it up and try again.

I will try the water change way, without any Coral Foods.

If that doesn't work, I can consider plumbing into either of the DT's.

 

[Wally.B]

FRAG Tank (Surfaces Need to Mature) LIVE ROCK Sparkling Clean

As I was about to starting cleaning the Frag Tank I noticed that the LIVE ROCK is Algae Free.

The Glass around it has Hair Algae many Inches long.

It could be less light under the Frag Tray above (or not as close to MH light), but doesn't explain Algae on Glass in Low Lighting Areas.

So my guess is the surface of the Frag Tank needs to build up a Film and get Coraline to grow on it.

Till then it will need a bit of extra Maintenance.
And next round, NO CORAL Food, Just Water Changes from DT.

 

[Wally.B]

Powder Brown Tang (Has Ich) Looking for Treatment Options.

I find this puzzling that after so many weeks that the Power Brown Tang Developed Ich. (But they are know to be ich Magnets)

Does this look like Ich? Doesn't look like Velvet to me.

He is eating and not acting aggravated, however it does look like he is panting.

None of the Blue Chromis have it, nor the Hawkfish, and Algae Blenny.

I do have Curpramine copper treatment, but that isn't for a Coral Loaded tank with Inverts.

Catching him will be impossible to treat in a QT. (However I think it's my only option).

Looking into other options.

Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[sensei]

Wally,
I am sorry to hear that
it is easier to do Tank Transffer Method than cupramine, but you will need to treat ALL the fish in that tank and leave that tank fishless for 72 days to allow for ich cysts encrusted in rocks or hard surfaces to die.

That is why all new fish need to be treated first, before they go into your dt.

 

[Wally.B]

Wally,
I am sorry to hear that
it is easier to do Tank Transffer Method than cupramine, but you will need to treat ALL the fish in that tank and leave that tank fishless for 72 days to allow for ich cysts encrusted in rocks or hard surfaces to die.

That is why all new fish need to be treated first, before they go into your dt.

So it appears there is nothing I can do. I cannot remove any fish without tearing tank down. (Which I won't since Corals are perfect and they are more important to me after years of figuring placement)

I raised tank temp to 80 to speed up the Ich Cycle.

I am using Garlic Guard to soak Tangs Favourite food, and he is eating all of it.

I can only hope the Ich Cycle ends. Tank is Glass bottom so less places for Ich to spread, but live rock is an issue.

Hoping the Chromis, and other fish continue to resist.

From what I read the Ich will leave the Tang in about 7 days to start the next infestation cycle at which the Tang may get Ich again.
When Ich leaves he can get other type of infections.
Maybe I'm lucky and he won't get either.

I really can't do much more, but watch and wait.

 

[sensei]

Wally,

Cyst will encrust in any hard surface, so glass of tank is an issue not only rock.
if you do not treat fish and leave tank fishless, ich can come back anytime.

 

[Wally.B]

Wally,

Cyst will encrust in any hard surface, so glass of tank is an issue not only rock.
if you do not treat fish and leave tank fishless, ich can come back anytime.

I will wait and watch. Ich needs a fish host, and the only fish I really care about is the Power Brown Tang.

I have no other option (Since no way I can catch fish in this complex Reef Structure)

The ONLY GOOD NEWS is I have practiced Strict Isolation to not cross contaminate my two tanks. I actually do the same for the Frag Tank and QT.

I use separate hoses, buckets, etc. I dry and soak tools in vinegar and never share water (except from SPS tank to Frag Tank).

 

[sensei]

you can catch that fish with a trap, I have caught difficult fish in tanks bigger than yours.
maybe it is something you will consider later.

 

[Wally.B]

you can catch that fish with a trap, I have caught difficult fish in tanks bigger than yours.
maybe it is something you will consider later.

If things don't get better, or start getting much worse, I will consider a fish trap.

But just to be clear. THE POWDER BROWN TANG is NOT in my 65 Gallon SPS Tank (That would be easy, since I could remove all rocks in 30 minutes and catch him)

He is in my 90 Gallon LPS/Mixed Tank. Which has a ton of hiding places and the rocks are fused together from Maturity.

(As see from BEHIND)

(And from FRONT)

As you say, a Trap is the only way to catch him, and the other 4 fish.

What kind of trap worked for you. Clear Box with Feeding Tube and Trap Door?

All fish go to the feeder Station TUBE at the Top Right, so a Fish Trap near there might work.

 

[Wally.B]

Frag Tank (Healing, Positive Sign) Noticed after Clean up

The Frag Tank wasn't that bad, just Algae on the Glass since I never cleaned for a week.

But after cleaning, and a water change I notice something Good.

The Frag that I cut (Aug 10) Two Weeks ago, didn't build up Algae AT THE CUT.

It actually healed up nicely, which hasn't happened to me before. (Usually at Cut Point I get Brown Algae)

This was under very low lighting of Custom LED (in Frag Tank), since I didn't run MH lights while away.

Original Piece Before Cut (Aug 10th) (it had some damage too with Algae Growing on Stem)

Healed TIPS (some Growth and improved PE) after two weeks in Frag Tank.

Wish my DT would behave like this.

Yes, it did stay brown, but now I turned on MH light and will see what happens.

So the Frag Tank is promising. (I wonder what was the Positive Factor for the Nice Healing. The Coral Food?)

 

[sensei]

What kind of trap worked for you. Clear Box with Feeding Tube and Trap Door?

yes, after 2 days of not feeding tank, fish will go inside the trap for food.
in case you consider treatment later, you will need to treat all fish symptoms or not and leave tnak fishless for 72 days. you will need to feed coral food 2 to 3 days a week while tank is fishless.
good luck

 

[Wally.B]

What kind of trap worked for you. Clear Box with Feeding Tube and Trap Door?

yes, after 2 days of not feeding tank, fish will go inside the trap for food.
in case you consider treatment later, you will need to treat all fish symptoms or not and leave tnak fishless for 72 days. you will need to feed coral food 2 to 3 days a week while tank is fishless.
good luck

I found this one (Bubble Magnus)
http://www.reefsupplies.ca/online-store/Collapsible-Fish-Trap-Medium.html

But after looking at this article on R Builders, maybe I can make one out of some Spare Acrylic.

If I can get the fish out, it would be better to let Tank Go without Fish and stop the ICH. LPS don't need much food, and Coral Food I have a Ton of

 

[sensei]

Yes, very similar to mine
Mine is DIY
If you want to see something positive out of these: you got to thank you got ich and not Uronema that has no fallow period.
With Uronema you would have been sk****

 

[Wally.B]

Yes, very similar to mine
Mine is DIY
If you want to see something positive out of these: you got to thank you got ich and not Uronema that has no fallow period.
With Uronema you would have been sk****

Thanks Jorge for the Inspiration to Catch the fish. I was going to give up till you kept pushing.

Here my DIY. Took me 5 minutes to find the pieces, and make two mounting holes. Acrylic Solvent sets the bond in 5 seconds (After a good rinse, harmless to fish).

Keeping it simple. Only 2 Sides since Feeder is in Corner.

OPEN ON TOP (Food feeder Tube is there)

Installed (2 mins with Tie Wraps) for now to get fish accustomed to eating in same area.

I'll figure out a Trap door, or way to close SIDE 3 later.

Maybe just a net might work once fish is deep inside.