My Tank Thread (Take3) ★Total AUTOMATION★ DIY Doser, Sump, AlgaeScrubber, WaterChnges
- Thread starter Wally.B
- Start date
Wally.B
Active member
OOPS (CO2 Scrubber) Backwards
Yes, Canister/Reactor connectors are flipped. It would be better to draw air from bottom, since even exposure to Air this stuff will absorb CO2.
It doesn't really matter (for test), but I read instructions and the Color Change (Media Expiration) is suppose to start from Bottom up.
Totally expired when the whole Canister Changes Dark Violet.
INSTRUTIONS SAY: [1 Litre Jar of this CDX will last 6 weeks, on Typical Household Recyled AIR, and Skimmer Drawing Air@100 LPH]
I could reverse the Canister Connection, but let's see how long this stuff lasts.
I'll know beyond COLOR change, since PH will start Dropping.
Yes, Canister/Reactor connectors are flipped. It would be better to draw air from bottom, since even exposure to Air this stuff will absorb CO2.
It doesn't really matter (for test), but I read instructions and the Color Change (Media Expiration) is suppose to start from Bottom up.
Totally expired when the whole Canister Changes Dark Violet.
INSTRUTIONS SAY: [1 Litre Jar of this CDX will last 6 weeks, on Typical Household Recyled AIR, and Skimmer Drawing Air@100 LPH]
I could reverse the Canister Connection, but let's see how long this stuff lasts.
I'll know beyond COLOR change, since PH will start Dropping.
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sensei
New member
professor,
can you explain why let them brown out??
I ask becuase I just moved one of my frags in frag tank down becuase of the same reason, but I just moved it 3 " down not such a dramatic change as you are sugesting here. maybe I need to shade it more?
About 5 month ago I had another frag that looked bleached and I moved it 6 " down, it has now a green color but still color is not vivid nor beautifull. I wonder if thing would have been different if I had done what you are suggesting and letting it brown out and then move up slowly.
thanks for your answer.
Big E
Premium Member
Hi Jorge,
You have a deep tank, so moving 6" down can produce the same effect. If it darkens in color that works too, but some corals are so bleached it's best to just try to brown them out.
You can brown them out in 2-3 weeks........if left in the direct light it may take months to darken up or you can lose the frag altogether.
When they are pale like that you're just looking for the zoo to re-populate. It easier for that to happen in the shade. Once it's in that brown state you can move it back into some light so it can start growing. All the new growth will be colorful.
You have a deep tank, so moving 6" down can produce the same effect. If it darkens in color that works too, but some corals are so bleached it's best to just try to brown them out.
You can brown them out in 2-3 weeks........if left in the direct light it may take months to darken up or you can lose the frag altogether.
When they are pale like that you're just looking for the zoo to re-populate. It easier for that to happen in the shade. Once it's in that brown state you can move it back into some light so it can start growing. All the new growth will be colorful.
sensei
New member
excellent explanation!!
I just shaded a lot the frag that I moved 3" down. I will see what happens.
Thanks a lot professor!
Wally.B
Active member
Ed,
I highly value your opinion. I know you know exactly what you are talking about (I DON'T know much about SPS).
So I need to understand things VERY Clearly.
TWO THINGS:
1) I thought the plan was to leave things alone for a while
---------> I just got this tank stable with ALK=7.0 in last day or so
---------> New Frags have survived without any damage longer than ever before.
---------> All Frags are showing good PE (Which I never had before)
---------> SOME TIPS are showing Vibrant NEW TIP Colors (Not all, some).
2) OLD Pictures (SPECIFIC Frag Move)
---------> Most of the pictures are before some acclimatization, so let me retake photos of each (Learning Photography, in BRIGHT MH lighting)
---------> Once I have new PHoto's you can recommend (FRAG #xxx) to be moved
So let me understand your recommendation.
-> Some Frags are overexposed, and need some lighting rest. CORRECT?
-> Perhaps I need to raise lights? (But that would affect all FRAGS) and (Bad change in General)
-----> Same bad ideal (To reduce PHoto Periods Currently=[ 6HR MH, 8 HRS MH+T5 ] ).
-> Perhaps I need to increase nutrients?
-> OR SOMETHING SIMPLE (My FRAG RACK is MAGENETIC and can be lowered 4 inches EASILY)
Let me re-take photo's and you can give me some specific advice (FRAG # wise)
** NOTE** These are all $7 test frags, but frags are frags **
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Wally.B
Active member
ED,
I sounds like your suggestion is to brown out (Some Specific) coral FRags, and then let new growth come back colorful with a Stronger Frag.
What is the purpose/effect of the browning? (Light reduction to build up strength/Health? OPPOSITE of PALE/Bleach/Fading)
I kind of did this for my RED PLANET a while ago to save it (just instinct). I put it at back. Lower. It got deep colors, and Thick PE (I'll show the photo). It appears to be recovering (never went brown, but colored up DARKER, Richer)
I kind of get the sense that my PARS at 350-360 MID tank might be too much in genral (All Frag Varieties).
Maybe decrease PARS in general (lights 2" higher), and move FRAG needing higher lighting UP.
I sounds like your suggestion is to brown out (Some Specific) coral FRags, and then let new growth come back colorful with a Stronger Frag.
What is the purpose/effect of the browning? (Light reduction to build up strength/Health? OPPOSITE of PALE/Bleach/Fading)
I kind of did this for my RED PLANET a while ago to save it (just instinct). I put it at back. Lower. It got deep colors, and Thick PE (I'll show the photo). It appears to be recovering (never went brown, but colored up DARKER, Richer)
I kind of get the sense that my PARS at 350-360 MID tank might be too much in genral (All Frag Varieties).
Maybe decrease PARS in general (lights 2" higher), and move FRAG needing higher lighting UP.
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Wally.B
Active member
ED,
(ONE OTHER IDEA - FRAG TANK is OPTION)
Instead of messing with DT.
I just got the FRAG tank Water Matched perfectly (if not better) than DT.
-> I dump DT 5% (twice a week water changes) into Frag Tank (Equates to 15-20% WC in FT) (So it will pretty well have same Water Parameters, plus I will be feeding a tiny bit of Reef Roids Once a week, into FT)
-> FRAG tank has 1x 150W MH bulb (on half of FRAG tank, so half of FT is dimmer). Fixture can be raised or lowered at will.
-> Thus I could place select FRAG into Frag Tank for healing/browning (THEN MOVE BACK TO DT).
BAD IDEA? GOOD IDEA?
(ONE OTHER IDEA - FRAG TANK is OPTION)
Instead of messing with DT.
I just got the FRAG tank Water Matched perfectly (if not better) than DT.
-> I dump DT 5% (twice a week water changes) into Frag Tank (Equates to 15-20% WC in FT) (So it will pretty well have same Water Parameters, plus I will be feeding a tiny bit of Reef Roids Once a week, into FT)
-> FRAG tank has 1x 150W MH bulb (on half of FRAG tank, so half of FT is dimmer). Fixture can be raised or lowered at will.
-> Thus I could place select FRAG into Frag Tank for healing/browning (THEN MOVE BACK TO DT).
BAD IDEA? GOOD IDEA?
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Wally.B
Active member
FRAG PHOTOS (CURRENT) TAKE 1 (Health CHECK not COLOR CHECK)
The MACRO ring is getting me better FOCUDED close ups.
THESE photo's are under Royal Blue/White LEDS (Will retake for Color when MH lights come on).
I'm no expert, but to me this is Pretty Healthy.
PALE in some cases, but not what I would call "Bleaching".
Certainly Drastic Improvement from All FRAG Health just a few weeks ago.
The MACRO ring is getting me better FOCUDED close ups.
THESE photo's are under Royal Blue/White LEDS (Will retake for Color when MH lights come on).
I'm no expert, but to me this is Pretty Healthy.
PALE in some cases, but not what I would call "Bleaching".
Certainly Drastic Improvement from All FRAG Health just a few weeks ago.
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Wally.B
Active member
ORIGINAL PURCHASE (Reference Photo)
To put things into perceptive.
Here are the Frags and Condition with Photo's from Store WEB PHOTOs at time of purchase.
They were put into my Tank Sept 28th, EXACTLY two Weeks ago.
Matching (Coral NUMBERING) on Each Photo.
I'll take a better photo from TOP (When MH lights come on)
That will be a good comparison, if they Improved, SAME, or Worsened.
To put things into perceptive.
Here are the Frags and Condition with Photo's from Store WEB PHOTOs at time of purchase.
They were put into my Tank Sept 28th, EXACTLY two Weeks ago.
Matching (Coral NUMBERING) on Each Photo.
I'll take a better photo from TOP (When MH lights come on)
That will be a good comparison, if they Improved, SAME, or Worsened.
sensei
New member
:lol2:
according to what I have learned a pale frag may be the beginning of a slow bleaching that can occur over a couple of months. I have a frag that was pale and I kept it in same place and it became more pale and it has even grown but color does not look good. Some other had super nice PE and grew and that kept me thinking that I should not move it, until they died....
In your photos I can not really see which are the pale ones, but if you have 1 or 2 pale ones there should be no harm in moving them down and experiment with those keeping them in same tank.
I would shade them as Ed suggested or lower them a lot so that there is a significant difference in the direct light they are receiving.
I just shaded a lot one of my frags after reading what Ed said.
any way you like tinkering, this is a way to tinker with a frag while keeping all other variables under your control.:lol2:
I wish I have done this with 7$ frags :lol2:
according to what I have learned a pale frag may be the beginning of a slow bleaching that can occur over a couple of months. I have a frag that was pale and I kept it in same place and it became more pale and it has even grown but color does not look good. Some other had super nice PE and grew and that kept me thinking that I should not move it, until they died....
In your photos I can not really see which are the pale ones, but if you have 1 or 2 pale ones there should be no harm in moving them down and experiment with those keeping them in same tank.
I would shade them as Ed suggested or lower them a lot so that there is a significant difference in the direct light they are receiving.
I just shaded a lot one of my frags after reading what Ed said.
any way you like tinkering, this is a way to tinker with a frag while keeping all other variables under your control.:lol2:
I wish I have done this with 7$ frags :lol2:
Wally.B
Active member
I'm not going to post a bunch of Boring Photo's.
I did take photo's of each FRAG from TOP (MH Light ON).
No change from Original Purchase. Maybe a touch better.
Just two Examples:
I'm leaving things alone FOR NOW, till I get some ENCRUSTMENT, and GROWTH.
I have a couple of FRAG pieces in Frag-Tank.....
I did take photo's of each FRAG from TOP (MH Light ON).
No change from Original Purchase. Maybe a touch better.
Just two Examples:
I'm leaving things alone FOR NOW, till I get some ENCRUSTMENT, and GROWTH.
I have a couple of FRAG pieces in Frag-Tank.....
Big E
Premium Member
The frags on post 710 look fine.
There were some earlier pictures that they looked almost white, those are the corals that would need to be lowered/shaded.
One already had algae trying to grow on it.
Basically, any new coral you receive that is pale or bleached needs to receive less light till it recovers.
Most of the time when you shade or lower them a lot they lose color, but will darken back up. If they keep color that's fine
but quite often they turn brown.
There were some earlier pictures that they looked almost white, those are the corals that would need to be lowered/shaded.
One already had algae trying to grow on it.
Basically, any new coral you receive that is pale or bleached needs to receive less light till it recovers.
Most of the time when you shade or lower them a lot they lose color, but will darken back up. If they keep color that's fine
but quite often they turn brown.
Wally.B
Active member
Ed, ok. Thanks. Understand your advice.
Good to know for future, if needed.
I think all is in good order.
No harm splitting that one frag into FRAG TANK to test if ready for future use.
That alage growing frag was noticed right away and is also in frag tank, doing ok.
Good to know for future, if needed.
I think all is in good order.
No harm splitting that one frag into FRAG TANK to test if ready for future use.
That alage growing frag was noticed right away and is also in frag tank, doing ok.
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Wally.B
Active member
ED,
To make thing easier for you and everyone.
I put a Frag numbers (eg #01) on each Photo (Bottom Right Corner) , so if you have a comment on pale, shading etc, raise it, etc ..... just mention FRAG #___.
The Millie on Post 699 is FRAG #01.
It's the one I retook a picture of today.
Still think it could use some shading?
reefmutt
Active member
I think moving things around is a mistake..
Don’t open that door.
Most of the corals look very good.
No harm in raising your lights, though.
The near dead one has been moved and moved again.
Agreed that millie doesn’t look fantastic and some older shots ed is referring to aren’t great but your recent shots show some generally happy corals.
I’d keep to minimal adjustments, Wally
I think that that millie shot is slightly overexposed and contributing to the paleness look.
Just trying to keep your hands out of the tank, Wally..
Don’t open that door.
Most of the corals look very good.
No harm in raising your lights, though.
The near dead one has been moved and moved again.
Agreed that millie doesn’t look fantastic and some older shots ed is referring to aren’t great but your recent shots show some generally happy corals.
I’d keep to minimal adjustments, Wally
I think that that millie shot is slightly overexposed and contributing to the paleness look.
Just trying to keep your hands out of the tank, Wally..
