My Tank Thread (Take3) ★Total AUTOMATION★ DIY Doser, Sump, AlgaeScrubber, WaterChnges

ALGAE Scrubber (UPDATE) Got to Pull the Turbo Snail Out (Same issue as Before)

Thought I should check on the ATS.
It's slowing down again.

I figure the Turbo is grazing on the screen like last time I put Cowrie in there.

Time to Yank him since I need the scrubber Stable.

Wonder what N & P is (too tired to check. ALK/CALC is fine).
 
I am still figuring out the fine details (measurements). These are all rough notes I'm taking from Miracle rep.

The 1.5 inches includes the Euro Reef Glass Rim which is 1/2 inch glass (I think, maybe 1" ). And Derek mentioned the 1.5" from Top Number. That could be when return pump not running. That could be with interneral overflow. If you include the Euro Trim that takes off another 1/2"-1" from top (thus only 1/2" from top of actual tank).

All rough numbers. I'll have everything down to milimeter sizing (since the Framing and Stand has to be prefect).

AND YES, if I am about to improve this 12 year old tank, the next 12 years better be enjoyment. So External Overflow is a MUST!!!

I have to improve everything that bothers me about this current setup.
I am taking notes. I just cleaned glass, and a few power cord were annoying. Overflow box in the way, etc, etc.
I'll live this old tank before I make the purchase.

I am even thinking, do all the Framing (Sump room fix too), and just move this 65 Gallon into the corner, and see it, feel THE NEW SETUP. Then understand the changes needed, before final specs on NEW TANK. (Sure 3 moves, but I got to have ZERO disappointment after spending the extra money).

Original plan was a STANDARD Marineland 90 Gallon tank, and I'd re-use my overflow box from 65GAL. Now things are getting out of hand, but this is for many years.

WHAT ARE EVERYONE's THOUGHTS about doing 2x viewing sides with STARPHIRE GLass? Worth the extra cost? (Never saw a tank with that glass)

ALL my tanks have starfire glass in all viewing sides.
external overflow looks much better, in my big dt I had to use symilar overflow boxes to the ones you posted because I had no option.
 
A Thousand Idea's (Floating in my head)

I been staring daily at the Sump Room (inside and out).

Been measuring and formulating all possibilities for the future tank.

Been thinking about what Kind of Tank and how I'll run wires/plumbing etc.

It will be a drastic rebuild since that sump room has taught me a lot.
Over 15 years....and since last quick rebuild 3 years ago to prepare for SPS tank.....
Sump room had flaws and water spill accidents. (Drywall damage at floor).

This time I'm going to fool proof/waterProof everything:

SUMP ROOM:

-> The sump room will be WATERPROOF Sealed and water channels out to basement drain (to not damaged Newly restored Office and Rec Room)

TANK:-> External Overflow is an option
-------> But There is another way to make tank Aesthetically pleasing and more practical.
-------> I can Frame the Drywall to Hide a small-PORTION the left side of tank (thus hiding in-side Overflow, Gyre, Heater)
-------> A HINGED wall cover will open up (In the Viewing PORTAL) to clean glass (I hated the frame I had since I couldn't clean tank edge to edge)

I really don't like the idea of the EuroTrim for wiring/pumbing flexibility and changes in future.

With extra Depth and Width on Tank, I could possibly handle/accept a Center Brace.

It will be Starphire Glass on Front and right side of tank (Possibly at back too since I spend a lot of time at back of tank).

Since tank will be re-located the Sump will will be exposed again for easy access to more improvement.

-> I'll do some simple electrical work to give me outlets in wall for ideal access/wiring (No more power bars), just EB8's and In Wall Outlet/GFCI's (new circuits to Electrical Panel)

I'm going to take my time to get this RIGHT. (but for me take time, will be relatively quick)

Top priority is to prepare for getting the Tank out of Sump Room.
-> Tank will be located on opposite side of SUMP (So tank will remain stable and running as is) while I work in Empty Sump room.
 
65 Gallon SPS TANK More (Prep)

Spent some time clearing out the Basement Area for the First Tank Move. (The area was full or old kids stuff, and even a Slide off their old Playhouse, which is now my Aquarium Storage Area)

Made room for The Old Frag Tank table. I'll drop the Frag tank there for holding rocks and Frags (along with some bin).

Next I have to remove the Shelving, and figure out adjustment to Dosing/Water Change Station.

The tank must be placed next to the SPS TANK Sump (For uninterrupted operation). Move will be quick.

** I'll be using the SAME 2x4 Wooden STAND the current Tank sits on (So Tank will be removed and place on floor. Stand moved over, and tank Place on stand) **
** STAND must be level and I'll bolt it to the wall for stability **

Not sure if I'll flip the sump around, or just run hoses.

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Then once tank is out, the View Portal Drywall can be opened up, and begin working inside Sump Room.

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Tank MOVE OUT/IN (Positioning Practice - Simulation)

Just practicing what thing will look like (Using the same Width 36" Frag Tank just for simlulation)

Don't worry, things will be much more solid than this.

But if I can place the 65 Gal like this, I don't have to disrupt Doser/WaterChanger or Shelving.

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Also the New 24" Deep Tank will fit to be brought into Sump Room.
 
Nitrate and Phosphate (Still Dropping) Time to Feed More (Including Corals)

No wonder the Algae Scrubber is slowing down (Almost Fading out again).

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I haven't been feeding as much Extra Fish Feedings (being busy on Tank Upgrade)

So besides doing AquaForest ABEV (which I dose Every Other Day).....,
I also fed the Corals Today (Polyp Booster dose followed by Reef Roids, AF Coral Food, Coral Frenzy and some Reef Chilli). All together about 1 small Teaspoon.

I assume the N&P levels are close to Ideal ,but I can't let them keep dropping.
 
TANK FRAMING (CHANGE) Impact? (EuroTrim / View )

I haven't gotten the tank out yet, but have been thinking about the framing.

I've always liked the shelf around the tank, but with the corner exposed design (things could be better).

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What if I bring the tank more flush with with the office wall?

That would give me more space on the Sump side for a 24" depth.

Tank would be now receded on the Sump Room side.

Wooden Frame would hold up the drywall (instead of the metal joices in the tank area).

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I need to think about what it would look like thru the tank glass.
THe right side of tank (currently see's the back wall of the Sump Room, which his blue).

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Now the framing would show up on right side of tank when looking into tank (from Room Side).

But now a EuroTrim Glass top makes sense.
 
I'm stuck on Tank Size "LLx24"x22" (Nothing else would make me happy....I think)

No matter what I try to change/adjust, I can't see myself happy without going LLx24x22.

However the price to get an External Overflow, Starphire on 2 sides, and EuroTrim puts the tank out of my comfortable price range with 48" width.

One better price alternative is instead of 48" , I can go 44" Length (Bonus is I get some desk space back)...(The downside, is I no longer would look straight into tank from Chair).

The only other drastic choice is just to go Marineland Standard Tank 48x18x24 (Drill a hole, re-use my internal overflow) which saves me a ton of money

The burning question for me, is will I be happy (with just 18" depth) afterwards , and for next 10 years...... after putting in all that work to do the upgrade.

The 18" Depth really bothers me (but that's the size of my Kitchen Tank [48x18x24] and it does the job, but hard to place corals).

So I'm thinking 44x24x22 (which put the tank at approx. 100 Gallons)
 
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FINAL TANK SPECIFICATION (Will Decide Thursday) Last Chance for Suggestions

So I was struggling with the width of tank. The 44" consideration was office desk space.
But I looked behind my Wall unit Office desk and there is 4" gap behind.
I installed the desk years ago thinking I would want to run cords behind it. (No cords, just dust)
If I move desk flush with wall I get 4" back, and more space for Monitors next to tank.

Plus since Insurance is going to give me Cash Out option, I'm doing all Reno-Work myself (so will redo Sump Room Drywall - Inside and out)
---> Means new Framing of tank (not an adjustment)
---> Wooden Stand (Receeded Tank into Wall, flush with Drywall, NO-BOX Shelf-FRAME like now)

TANK SPEC:

DIMENSIONS: 48" x 24 " x 21" (21" height limit to stay at 1/2" glass)
-------> Nice Height for access
-------> Nice height for Light Penetration for SPS at lower Depths.
-------> Will raise tank stand to be 2" higher than currently (1" Over desk, not 1" under desk-top like current setup)

GLASS:
--------> Front (Starphire)
--------> Right Side (Starphire)
--------> Back (Normal Glass)
--------> Left (Tempered Glass)

--------> Clear Silicone on right/front Corner

EuroTrim: Drywall facing (Front/Right) 4", (Back/Left") 3" Skinny EuroTrim
---------> 4 Access Holes in Eurotrim ( BACK[left,middle,right], Front
)

External Overflow: 17" [2 hole ] BEAN-overflow, centered on left Panel

Any thoughts? Suggestions?​
 
TANK SIZE (Fine Tuning) 1/2" vs 5/8" Glass (Structural Integrity Safety Limit)

So I wasn't going to place an order without seeing a 24" Deep Tank. (Never seen one before in person.....Just in pictures)
I visited the local Fish store.

All their tanks were 18" deep (in my 48" width) so I almost left.

But then sales guy pointed me to an odd looking tank. It was 48x24x25 Rimmed.

Wow that 24" depth is something totally different.
It's like a tank in itself (from the side).
To me very weird, but I could see the value.

I then got very concerned with a my Tank Size (that would squash) the tank down with respect to height.
Even my current 36x18x25 65Gallon has more height (but 2" of trim Top/Bottom) make height only 21" of Viewing Glass.

I called Miracle and the stated for me to go beyond 22" high I'd have to go 5/8" glass. That would increase price significantly and also increase tank weight.

So I asked to double check with Tank Engineering if something could be done to get tank 23" high, but keep glass 1/2".

They found a size that would be the limit. 46x24x23

With 1/2" glass on Bottom, 1/2" Euro Trim on Top, 1/2" Water line, and 1/4 inch for Drywall overlap (that results in 21 1/4" of view height).

That size works for me. Perfect for office desk space with 46" width.
I can receed Tank in wall Completely (Flush), or not (Full Box Frame), or half way when it comes time to Stand and Framing.

Going to sleep on this SIZE before making a decision.
 
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FINAL TANK (Ordered) from Miracle (Better decision method)

The wheel of fortune spinner method just didn't cut it.

For Height and I did a MOCK up. So felt what it would be like to reach into tank.

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And for Final Width Decision,

It was about Desk Space (but still larger Tank than current 36").
and To improve Sump Room with (Side Overflow Vs current Back). Open up room for Sump shift (Thus brining in Doser, and Water Topup ALL INTO SUMP ROOM)

=== Future Frag Tank Hookup (beside Sump) Possibility

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It's not a Standard Tank Shape, but I think it will be ideal for my setup.

I will still have flexibility to tweak things with the Stand Height, and Wall Work. (Last minute changes when Tank Arrives), which will be Approx 8 weeks from now.
 
Thanks for posting everything. Watching the progress and changes you've made, whether you initially intended to or not, have been pretty cool to see.

Not sure if this is where you got your decision wheel, and maybe its too late, but next time maybe theres a way you can mix in and automate the wheel from www.wheeldecide.com , most useful for deciding where to go to dinner.
 
Thanks for posting everything. Watching the progress and changes you've made, whether you initially intended to or not, have been pretty cool to see.

Not sure if this is where you got your decision wheel, and maybe its too late, but next time maybe theres a way you can mix in and automate the wheel from www.wheeldecide.com , most useful for deciding where to go to dinner.

Hey ESH1,

Thanks for the wheel decide APP.
The tank is ordered so that decision is done.
I still have MANY MORE DECISIONS to make before new tank is setup and installed.
Wheel Decide may be still useful.
It will be fun.
 
Weirdest Growth Ever (What is it?)

I noticed this white fluffy stuff. Like white spongy feather flapping in the current.

Almost looks like Eggs.

It's growing on the Epoxy I put the Monti On.

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I've once seen a snail lay eggs on my glass in a zig-zig pattern.
This is similar but different.
 
TANK MOVE/ Sump-Room Rebuild (Step Closer) Kitchen Sump Rotate

Kitchen sump has been rotated and raise for better access to Tank, and walls.

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I'm really glad (I didn't cut down the Kitchen Return and Drain Hoses). Never got around to that, so plenty of wiggle room.

I like the higher up sump, and maybe that's the way I'll setup things.

Tank move-out is scheduled for this Friday.

I'll have some time over Holiday break start the new Tank Pre-Work.
 
BIG TANK MOVE (Prepared and Ready) FRIDAY Countdown

Took 8 Photo's and Stitched them together (Great Hugin Freeware Program)

This is about 320 Degree View of the Tank Move Area.

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Not sure how much will be done during the First Move.

But things are ready for the 2nd Move.

-> Left (Rock Cleaning / Dipping Area)
-> Middle (Mixed Water area)
-> Right (Old Tank Landing Area)
 
Biggest Tank Move of my 15+ Years in Hobby (2 Days away) WISH ME SOME LUCK

I had a lot of bad luck over the last 3 years with the SPS tank.
I think I've learned many things to make the NEW TANK a success.

I am very prepared for the first MOVE OUT, but there are risks since the tank is 17 years old. Can OLD TANK handle the move?

I have plenty of bins and buckets, and backup plans, just in case a leak or crack happens.

So if anyone who's been reading this thread can WISH ME SOME GOOD Fortune and LUCK, it would be appreciated.


Hoping things go well so I can start with a new Journey in 2018 when new Dream (MIRACLE) Tank Arrives.

Wally
 
2 MORE DAYS (Till Tank move) Final Prep Work

Final touches.

Cleaning Station was a bit dark. (Added Lighting and a POwer Center)

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The Tank will be moved next to Sump.
OLD stand will be reused. But it's attached to wall.

Can't do that here, so I'll have bolted Supports.
(I also have cedar shimmy's to make things PERFECTLY LEVEL)

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And Last but not least (Soaking Old/New Frag Plugs) since may need to remove Frags from Rocks.

Magic Seal Tape may be needed (hope not)

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Seems that everyone is busy or not willing to wish be any luck :(
(I need some, since much can go wrong)

Oh well. At least I have one Recently acquainted Helper (A Reef Central Forum Person that lives not to far away).
 
LAST WATER TEST

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Things are stable (and Parameters in Check) before the move.

Helps to know this (Will try to keep most of the Original water).
 
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