My Ultimate Multi Mantis System(s)

This sump gives you a way to quiet the drains from the tank (you will want that), a great prefilter (helps to remove more then you know), a dedicated skimmer area, a bubble trap, a fuge area, a media spill way/ alagy trap (this will help with chemical filtration and keep your return pump getting damaged by macro) and a good return section (with a way to run the pump without fear of it getting clogged up).

I know your going to have lots of questions. So right off the bat let me answer some of them.
Having the drains run down into a spot then overflow into the socks acts as a bubble trap and allows you to remove the socks to clean them with out turning off the return pump.
Having more then one sock is a good idea. Building this section with a sheet sitting on the selves as in the drawing lets you remove the sock hoster and replace it with a different one if you want to try different size socks. So don't glue it in.
Having the emergency drains over the socks is important. If you go out of town and the socks get filled no problems will occur just clean the socks when you get home. Trust me you want them.
No you don't need more than one bubble trap unless you upside the return pump into the 3000 gph range. Wich you never will.
The spill way can be used for a lot of different things. Like media bags, blue and white filter sheets, filter floss, carbon sponges, let your mind run with options. It is nice to have something like this if you stir up a dust storm just add filter floss and bam no more milky water! Second thought you may want an er drain in the tall side of the spillway just in case.
The return section is grate for a heater.
The protein skimmer section could be bigger. Just remiber if you ever run a biopellet reactor you will want to run the return to the protein skimmer intake. I think if you did this you mah lose the use of the fuge area due to lack of neutreants. But hay a filter feeding/cryptic zone is a cool bio filter all to itself though.
I personally would like to see a deep sand bed in your fuge to grow mangroves instead of more macro. You are growing enough macro in the DST if you ask me that's what I would do. But you do you.
 
Not really sure if I want filter socks its a love hate thing and I would be changing them frequently due to having 3 stands/sumps...+ the more intricate I make it the more it will cost in the end...but I do like the idea of the acrylic "lid".

I'd rather have the media bags where you have the filter socks and no filter socks...
 
I'm abit confused about your 2 "buffle" sets the one connecting the Skimmer to fuge area and the fuge to Return area...

For the Fuge to return area could I not simply glue 4 small single cubes of eggcrate to each corner above the gap at the bottom of the divider and then 4 more at the very top of the divider thus allowing me to sit and eggcrate sheet ontop of both and still be able to remove them whilst not loosing to much space in side that spillway gap should I want to remove them.
 
I'm confused about why there is 2 baffles on the right side of the input chamber connecting it to the fuge...don't really want water going that way until passing through skimmer.
 
I can make the lid myself I guess for the input area, just need arcylic and utilize some method as the eggcrate shelves inbetween the spill way, just glue 1 eggcrate cube to each corner up the top so the acrylic sheet sits neatly upon it, will make it a few mm's lower so it can't slide of etc and sits inside it a bit.
 
Looking back on the input chamber in my current image...it's cutting it too close to split it into 2 chambers 1 for input overflow and 1 for filtersock/media...simply cause there is only 115mm width to it all...plenty of length 295mm) idea is to line each overflow input like you have drawn and I have in my image of the stand above, they should/will fit neatly in that 295mm length but might take up 50mm at least of the width...leaving only 65mm in front.
 
Even if I didn't just do the filter sock area like in your diagram, but did have the spill way that is no major difference and one I would gladly use over the 2nd baffle separating Fuge & Return, however that 2nd wall on the Input Chamber is confusing me a bit and yeah I don't see room in the 1st chambers overall space to allow both input overflow & filter sock area, they have to be '1'...
 
Here is the slight change utilizing the spillway, I am thinking around 50mm wide thus it still taking up as much space as the previous plan.

 
Filter socks can be rinsed and will last you at the least a year if properly used or more. I would make one sump with the socks and another without the socks. Rember I said do not glue on the sheet so you can change it out down the road. Make another sump without the sock just add in a spill way for some kind of disposable prefilter and test them against one another. After 6 months of changing the disposable per filter you may start liking the socks. Most people that hate the socks don't have enough socks so the minimal ones they have clog way to fast. Cleaning them is as easy as rinsing them with a strong house then tank water and back in place. Small price to pay for what you will remove every week or so. When they get real bad pore some hydrogen peroxide on them in a bucket keep them damp with the hydrogen peroxide for a couple hours rinse and through the clean socks back in. Cleaning a filter sock is a lot faster then you think when used correctly. I hated them but once I had large systems my opinion changed. Trust me there is a reason every large reef system you see uses them.
 
This is the latest detailed design which is the same as above but a rear and side view along with all dimensions.



I just don't know if there is going to be room to split that first chamber in half since it can only be split 1 way, by making a second chamber in the input area I am limiting that 1st overall input chambers size and for something like a filter sock 2.5-3"dia that's a lot of space for that small 1st chamber.
 
By setting your baffle heights that tall, your sump is going to be almost full all the time. If you loose power or your return pump dies...........you're going to have a flood very quick.

1/2" gap between baffles, 1/2" gap under the middle baffle

Set your baffle height to what your skimmer needs for water depth.

Just some thoughts.

Steve

Thanks for the comments!

Regrettably my predicament is simple...the skimmer needs 200mm op depth whilst the sumps cannot be any deeper then 300mm.

1/2" gap between baffle I'm not sure what you mean...the gap between each baffle is 25mm or 1inch and the gap from the middle baffle off the base of the tank is 50mm or 2inchs not 1/2" again.

Edit: I guess the pay off for getting a larger fail safe zone, would mean lowering the overall operation depth of the sump running which is dictated by the skimmer chamber, by making it lower, so goes the refugium and return...

Edit: Edit: This is the Math of the Sump Operating & Power Out (Comp Full)...
117.5L Completely Full Sump
9.4L (Input Chamber) + 17.4L (Skimmer Chamber) + 24.9L (Refugium Chamber) + 24.9L (Return Chamber) = 76.6L Operation Depth est.
117.5L (comp full) - 76.6L (op. depth) = 40.9L for Powerfailure space.
 
Looks like we are on the same page with this sump for the most part. I would still like to see some kind of mechanical prefilter after the drains before the skimmer but your design will work. And yes you can glue in eggcrate to rest egg crate shelfs on.
 
I got a bloke on facebook telling me I should swap the desig s of the baffles over as in have the spillway connecting skimmer to refugium and have bubble baffle connecting refugium to return...he says it will restrict the water entering the refugium so it doesn't disturb the substrate ?
 
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