My wood tank build

[EBOLII]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10254987#post10254987 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dsandfort
ebolii (did you mean ebola?)

Nope....I come across from the 3D side of net [3dtotal, scifi-meshes, CGtalk]
My user id came from this about 10yrs ago:

ebola [Human virus] + virii [Computer virus] = EBOLII

A unique name ID eh? Been trying to get admin to all cap it properly with no success though

anyways, a leak? can try plumbers sealant it is a type of wax I think

 

[dsandfort]

Talk about a cold shower!!!

I was plumbing one of the OM 4-ways last night. The one to feed the under-substrate lines. I must have put too much torque on a bulkhead because the seal popped and water was literally squirting out about 3 feet. Needless to say, I did a quick drain (the whole volume) and had to re-seal the bulkhead.

All is back to normal today. Bulkheads are dry and the OM is working as designed. The plumbing is like pasta, pictures to follow.

 

[EBOLII]

I re-read the thread. I have to say this is really cool. Some questions have come to mind. Are you not afraid of tank failure? How exactly did the glass go in? it is hard to get a exact feel from the few images
I guess a better question would be after seating it, did you fiberglass the wood seal?

 

[ZenMan]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10268528#post10268528 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dsandfort

BUT, does anyone have a good trick to sealing threaded joints to prevent seaping? I used threaded ball valves this time so I could easily replace and maintain them. I have a few slow leaks through the threads even with lots of teflon tape.

Ideas? Tricks?

Use teflon tape first, then coat the tape with:
http://www.rectorseal.com/index.php?site_id=1&product_id=212

It is really hard to get 100% seals on 2" pipe and larger. The paste on top of teflon tape will work nearly all the time. I think you can buy it at home depot.

 

[erics3000]

WOw..Looking great ..Somehow I missed your updates.. I started building my wall and now understand your thought process on building. I look forward to seeing your progress.

 

[dsandfort]

No more leaks (touch wood). I resealed the offending bulkhead and re-caulked the inside seal on all of the bulkheads just for good measure.

Finished the first OM 4-way closed loop. The vertical pipe is a temporary return from the temporary sump just to flow test everything for a couple of weeks. I'll plumb another closed loop off the remaining bulkhead left of the Dart pump. The final sump returns will be split to 2, WavySea+ (ordered) below which will be 2, Tunze 6100's (backordered) that will sweep with the WavySeas.

Initial flow before I start stocking will be 1 Barracuda, 2 Darts, and 2 6100's with space for 2 more Darts. Thoughts???

Del

 

[dsandfort]

oops...sorry

 

[240-Reefer]

Really Looks Great Man !!

I will finish reading up on this one. I plan to start a similar build over the winter in my new house.

 

[Misfit6669]

You're missing about 30 ballvalves Mr. Valve.

 

[cbui2]

looking good and great updates Del, will it be easy to removed the OM4 when maintience is needed? seems to me you will be removing both end of ball valve. also will that be safe having the motor mounted behind the tank like that if you will be working from the back or are you doing work from the front.

i used 2 Sequence 5800 on OM4 for CL, 2 4300 for return dial down of course on each side and 1 4300 for chiller return to display giving me about 21,000gph to my system. CL loc line are pointed to direct flow from the bottom toward overflows and returns pointed on each ends pushing water toward the middle and CL flows toward overflow boxes making the surface water clear at all times.

 

[dsandfort]

Hi Bart-
Good questions. The OM is attached to the pump via a union and each outlet has a union. Close down 5 ball valves and unscrew 5 unions and the OM is free for maintience. I did forget to put a bleeder valve in the system to dump the water in the pipes so I will have to catch the drain water in a rubbermaid when I break the unions.

I did 99% of work from the front of my last tank and will do the same here. I figured I would have either pump or pipe in my way from the back so it really didn't matter. There will be a catwalk across the back at some point and I prefer not bending down to work. Also, I am building a sliding bridge that will lay on the tank front-to-back so I can crawl out on it and work from there.

My initial flow will be around 16,500 when the Tunze's are at full song. I plan to add another DART closed loop taking it to around 20K and if the external wavebox does not work out, there will be room for a 4th closed loop. If I use another DART there, I'll be around 23K which is about 42x turnover. I'm doing the under-substrate CL in the photo just like you did. Run the pipes to the front and fire them back toward the overflows.

What version OM drum did you use fo this?

 

[cbui2]

i used v3 magnetic drive. that should be plenty of flow IMO

 

[erics3000]

Nice!!!!!!!!! I never thought of the idea about a bleeder valve for the om4. Great Idea. I don,t want to have a mess when I do maintnance. Great thinking ahead. The amount of knowledge people pick up from the threads are amazing. Thanks for sharing

 

[H20ENG]

Plenty of flow there Del!
I always support the piping as much as possible. Inevitably, you'll bump it and you dont want any reason to try and drain the whole tank really fast once its full of animals.
I use strut and clamps, grey conduit clamps, black plastic plumbers strap, wood blocking cut to fit, etc.

 

[erics3000]

h20ENG can you show us some pics?

 

[scchase]

Its starting to look real nice Del. Gonna have to come over and see it real soon.

 

[H20ENG]

Here is a grey conduit strap used with drywall anchors

Here is unistrut with pipe clamps. Get your wallet out for this stuff!

A bunch of em

A valve box going into a concrete rockwork touchpool

 

[dsandfort]

Great Ideas, I'll start looking for anchor hardware. Come over any time Scott.

Now, I could use some advice/help with plumbing.

In the photo, the pump on the floor is a Barracuda that will wye to 2 WavySea's below which will be 2 Tunze 6100's. That's a done deal.

Question 1. The pump on the right is a Dart to an OM 4-way. The outlets will run under the substrate to the front of the tank and fire up at a 45 degree towards the overflows. The drum is V 1 meaning each outlet fires in sequence. 1,2,3 then 4 and repeat, left to right. ???Is this the right drum? And, should the outlets be at the front of the tank?

Question 2 (with sub-parts). The pump on the left is also a Dart. I plan to go with another OM 4-way. Is this necessary? or should I just do a static closed loop. If OM, which version and where should the outlets go? If static closed loop, how many outlets and where should they go?

Question 3. Can you think of some better options?

Question 4. Are there other questions I should be asking?

Thanks a lot for advice. I only want to plumb this once. By the way, how do you like them nifty adjustable pump stands?

Del

 

[jnarowe]

stands are cool.
I have no experience with the OM 4-ways. I could never get a call back from those guys and gave up. I do have four 1" static return lines, each with a gate valve. Two flow out of the front corners at a 90 deg angle to the glass. I think maybe you should think a bit more about using the 45's poiting toward the overflow. I think running them along the bottom under the rock will get you better results than aiming them upwards.

It would be easier to answer your questions with a little diagram of how you are planning on running the flow.

Tanks looks totally sweet BTW. Very impressive!

 

[H20ENG]

I'd have those pumps falling and breaking in about an hour Looks nice Del.
Many people have began plumbing the 4 ways to create a sort of barrel roll in the tank.
2 Inlets at bottom, rear, blowing toward the front, then 2 inlets at top front blowing back toward the overflow. You can also do it with one outlet at each corner, but its tougher.
Just try to have the flow from one jet aimed at the next consecutive jet so it keeps a rotational movement in the tank.

Oh, and I like the sequential drum the best, as you get the most effective flow from them. Unless you have a super huge pump, then get the opposed drum.