Myths about protein skimmer size

I can't read the thread from a computer browser, but is fine on Tapatalk.

Anyway, want to ask if the flow rate of return pump is say 500gph, should I get a skimmer with pump rating of 500gph? Higher? Lower? Does not matter?

I'm currently deciding. Want to go smaller but want to make sure that is the best way to go.
 
d0ughb0y,
Like you, the thread is screwy for me too on any web browser. It really doesn't matter about the flow rate of the pump. Choose a skimmer that is rated for your display size and load.
 
Is it only me but I can't view comments.

That's why I made it recirculating. The through flow was ~2000 gph but the recirculating loop was ~4000 gph. So the water inside turned three times through the 96" middle section and went through the high volume air injectors at least twice before escaping.

The flow through the sump loop is 6000gph so most of the tank water makes its way through the sump frequently from the end to end 96" weir.

I'd say most of the tank water found its way into the skimmer and then spent quite some time in it.
 
I do agree that sizing skimmers based on tank size is not technically correct - they should be sized based on bio load and organics generated. Unfortunately there is no reliable way to determine specific bio load. Consequentially tank size is about the only proxy available to us. At least some skimmer makers qualify the sizing with light, medium and heavy stocking. Not terribly scientific, but it's what we have.

As to your other comments I mostly disagree. I have also been in the hobby for a very long time, have setup many tanks, and experimented with a lot of skimmers. I have neither noticed nor ever been presented with a cogent argument about skimmer performance being a function of either sump size or flow through the sump - beyond absurd minimums, that is. I suppose if a tank has inadequate internal circulation, a stronger return pump might move more detritus to the sump, but that's far more likely to just collect than be removed by the skimmer. In tanks where there is adequate internal circulation, a bigger pump just cost you more in electricity.

There may be a 'myth' that you have missed - that skimmers magically remove all organics in a single pass. They don't, and because they don't the size of and flow through this sump is practically irrelevant.

Flow through the actual skimmer is important, as is contact time. A skimmer, regardless of size, will only remove about 1/3 of the organics. That the addition of a bigger skimmer shows no increase in skimmate may simply be that the smaller one was big enough all along.

Thread is broken.
 
YAY!!! New page! We're free!!!!

It's your fault... your 72 foot tall skimmer was too much for it to handle ;)

That said... I'm joining the skimmer that's taller then me club. May recirc it, time will tell.
33668175935_bdc73e0009_b.jpg
 
72"?? how dare you?? :D

It's 12' tall.. from the floor of my garage to the very tippy top of my ceiling... and I have the spider webs in the videos to prove it...

and recirculating triples, so effectively 36' ... higher than my house... but we'll go with the "literal" height...

144" ... thank you very much
 
I have been in the hobby a long time, set up more than 10 reef tanks of various sizes. I also received some formal training and am currently working with the local school system to teach marine bio by maintaining a reef tank in the school. I have come to realize something that I have never seen discussed regarding sump protein skimmers. Specifically that size of tank does not determine size of protein skimmer needed. All protein skimmers say, "for up to a *** gallon tank." I have also seen people talk about going +1 on their skimmers to get extra clean water.

All of these approaches make several huge assumptions. First is that big tanks = big sumps with high flow rate. Sump size and flow rate are perhaps the most important indicators of optimal skimmer size. For example, if you have a 90 gallon tank and go to a 120 gallon tank, keep the same size sump and return pump flow, but add a larger skimmer, all you get is the same amount of suspended material in a bigger skimmer cup.

Here's another way of putting it. The skimmer in the sump only has access to the suspended organic waste material in the sump. It doesn't have access to the waste material in the display tank. Since it can only remove the waste it has access to, you need to increase the sump size and/ or return pump flow to get more production from your skimmer.

I have a 180 gallon reef tank in the school I work for. I use a low flow rate for the return pump and a small sump because we also have a large, planted, remote display refugium. I don't need a large protein skimmer in the sump because it wouldn't be any better than the small one at removing waste.

Another problem with the "bigger is better" approach to protein skimmers is that you may not want everything organic suspended in the water removed, like phytoplankton. I have seen people buy phytoplankton from the store to feed filter feeders while emptying huge skimmers and pouring them down the drain.

One more important factor for determining skimmer size is knowing how dirty your water is in the first place. Skimmers are never the only source of filtration. How efficient are your other filtering strategies at removing suspended particles?

My point? Skimmer size section is way more complicated than how big your aquarium is.

There are so many blowhards in this hobby it's astonishing. People stick to certain things no matter how poorly they work for them.

At the end of the day you go with what's best for your system and your own husbandry. Never been a fan of picking out the biggest baddest skimmer ever, I go for the one that's easy to adjust and not going crazy every time I feed or put my hands in the tank.

It's just like these ULNS freaks...no matter how they much starve their corals they seem to always force the ULNS stuff without figuring out it's probably hurting them. One of my LFS guys swore up and down my lifereef skimmer rated for 400g wasn't enough for my 300g yet I have never had issues. He rolls his eyes every time I come in his store like he knows so much more than me.

It's like hey bro, just because you're an old overweight greybeard that still uses ham radio to pick up chicks and have been reefing since I was in diapers doesn't mean you're good. I stopped taking his advice when I saw pictures of his piece of crap softy tank with a dirt brown sandbed and years of algae all over the front glass.

Learning to figure stuff out on your own and go with what works for you is the best advice I ever received from people with tanks I actually respect.
 
Results do speak loudest. :)

My videos are public so it is what it is...

however, I have shifted from using it to remove particulate organics to using it as a volume air injector. That was a change in my reasoning but not my methods (not by much anyway).

Many things that work, just work... why they work is not always clear. In my case, the combination of pH driven kalk dosing and heavy air injection (both of which were severely criticized by experts) has been the secret sauce that pushes my corals to grow out of the water level...

I'll be careful not to be a preachy blowhard as we all should be- especially those who preach about other preachy blowhards... LOL

ROFLMAO :D
 
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