I think that I'd run the reactor from the sump, back into the sump, in that situation. If you were good with plumbing, you might be able to T the tank overflow into the reactor and then T back into the skimmer input, but I have no idea how to do that.
interesting side note. Now that my QT tank is mimicing kernnall's design, just a big cup with them, the tank is ALREADY cloudy. I'm starting to think (may be premature) that the reactor I had with small diameter inlet and outlet was the cause of my failure...not enough flow. For 3 months everyone kept saying to give them less flow...and maybe they just needed more. Sadly that would require spending MORE MONEY on a new reactor that has larger fittings.![]()
I'm not quite sure what you mean, but I think it's likely fine.this is the way my sump is set up. overflow into filter sock-chamber with skimmer-chamber with LR rubble-return chamber w/ pump that feeds reactor-reactor-out flow of reactor next to skimmer intake.
Put them in a large mesh bag pond bag and drop them in your overflow. It sounds like you have a pretty ideal setup for doing this on the cheap.
DJ
I just had a thought on the previously mention in-tank bacterial bloom.
(actually I was being lazy and recreated it in my tank)
I am setting up a new tank. Broke the return pump while setting up the plumbing but wanted to start running it.
So I 'borrowed' the pump that feeds my skimmer to use as a return pump until the replacement comes in.
Figuring it takes 1-2 weeks for the pellets to colonize with bacteria I set up the pellet reactor for the new tank Monday knowing I wouldn't have the skimmer running until Thursday (4 days).
Well it didn't take the pellets that long to get bacteria.
Tank has been cloudy for the last 24 hours but here's my thoughts on this:
I've been watching the pH go down significantly. Couldn't the cloudiness be due to the the buffers struggling to keep pH up?
On the old tank I had the skimmer on all the time but I bet there's still stuff that bypassed it.
Could the cloudy tank some people experience be more of a symptom of pH dropping rather than a real bacterial bloom?
Oh that's a bummer. Thought I was on to something... not! LOL
It will be fun to eventually know what's the difference!
Like Dave's not taking off after months of trying and I already have new bacterial slime in my reactor with pellets that are only 4 days in water!
Oh that's a bummer. Thought I was on to something... not! LOL
It will be fun to eventually know what's the difference!
Like Dave's not taking off after months of trying and I already have new bacterial slime in my reactor with pellets that are only 4 days in water!
Oxygen doesn't affect the pH. It's fairly common for a tank to be fully saturated with oxygen, yet have a low pH. Carbon dioxide will lower the pH.
LOL same issue with my sold reactor, after he was for months in my aquariums without doing anything, person who buy him get bacterial bloom after 2-3 days, with less bp on bigger aquarium (just for the record, I tested various options with the reactor until I sold him, more bp, less bp, more flow, less flow, nothing helped) I still have in use one non functional reactor with 1000 ml of bp who oficially jet do nothing, I dont have a clue why I still use him, maybe looking for miracle LOL ...
Oxygen doesn't affect the pH at all. Skimmers are great for adding oxygen, and that's important, since animals need to breathe, but oxygen doesn't change pH.Do you mean that Oxygen does not decrease your pH? I thought oxygenating water to increase the pH is the the main purpose of having a 2nd chamber on a calcium reactor.
From here: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-09/rhf/index.phpCauses of Low pH Problems
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3. The aquarium has more CO2 in it than the surrounding air due to inadequate aeration. Don't be fooled into thinking that an aquarium must have adequate aeration because its water is very turbulent. Equilibrating carbon dioxide is MUCH harder than simply providing adequate oxygen. There would be NO change in the pH between day and night if equilibration of carbon dioxide were perfect. Since most aquaria have lower pH during the night, they also are demonstrating less than complete aeration.
The Aeration Test
Some of the possibilities listed above require some effort to diagnose. Problems 3 and 4 are quite common, and here is a way to distinguish them. Remove a cup of tank water and measure the pH. Then aerate it for an hour with an airstone using outside air. The pH should rise if the pH is unusually low for the measured alkalinity, as in Figure 3 (if it does not rise, most likely one of the measurements (pH or alkalinity) is in error). Then repeat the same experiment on a new cup of water using inside air. If the pH rises there too, then the aquarium pH will rise with more aeration because it is only the aquarium that contains excess carbon dioxide. If the pH does not rise inside (or rises very little), then the inside air contains excess CO2, and more aeration with that same air will not solve the low pH problem (although aeration with fresher air should).