need to bleach my corals

Personally, even when I tried running a refugium, my SPS were just OK. When my chaetomorpha started dying my SPS colored up nicely. I haven't seen an SPS dominated system with blazing colors yet that relies on an ATS. I'm not saying they're not out there, but (AND THIS IS MY PERSONAL OPINION) I feel they can yellow out the water, inhibit light penetration and basically give a false sense of how low nutrient of an SPS tank you're really running.

Way OT but I just saw this one earlier: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=17449792&postcount=3

I realize this system isn't ATS only, but there are pics of his scrubber in the thread and it is obviously growing well.
 
Way OT but I just saw this one earlier: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=17449792&postcount=3

I realize this system isn't ATS only, but there are pics of his scrubber in the thread and it is obviously growing well.

This is actually my point. If a system is all ATS I don't think it can look as good as the one you're posting. Also, a large oversized skimmer would definitely hurt that scrubber's performance. My point to the OP was that I wouldn't trust a Salifert phosphate kit to give me an accurate reading, especially if my corals were browning out under 400 watt bulbs and not growing.
 
My point to the OP was that I wouldn't trust a Salifert phosphate kit to give me an accurate reading, especially if my corals were browning out under 400 watt bulbs and not growing.

I'm not sure I understand this.

The reading should be accurate if done correctly.

Why the reading is what it is may be open to interpretation.
 
Just some friendly advice.

Ditch the nuisance algae farm(AKA algae turf scrubber), ditch the chaeto, remove all the poo from the rocks sand and bottom of the tank, do several large water changes, get a good skimmer, and start keeping the system clean.
If there's enough fertilizer in the system to fuel nuisance algae and chaeto, there's enough to fuel zooxanthellae and turn your corals brown.
 
I'm not sure I understand this.

The reading should be accurate if done correctly.

Why the reading is what it is may be open to interpretation.

You can have a lot of phosphate and nuisance algae growing great in your tank. Many times a Salifert kit will simply not register this. I now trust a Hanna Meter only.
 
You can have a lot of phosphate and nuisance algae growing great in your tank. Many times a Salifert kit will simply not register this. I now trust a Hanna Meter only.

This is news to me!!!

Any reference to this???
 
+1 on what EC said.

also, I do not recommend Zeospure2 for combatting browning. nutrition reduction or excessive elements is the correct path to combat browning.


about algae and no po4 detectable ... it could be that the algae is taking up the po4. test the po4 early in the morning before lights come out.
 
thank you all guys for your help

i will post all my tank details

just what hanna po4 and nitrate do you reccomend

do u recommend low range for po4 ?
 
This is news to me!!!

Any reference to this???

There are too many threads already talking about the inaccuracy of liquid based phosphate tests. Like Allmost said, if you have algae and PO4 is reading 0, the algae is consuming it faster than you can test for it, but that doesn't mean that your corals aren't affected by it. That's the kicker...
 
aslo my polyp extention is great at light off about 2- 3 ml
but when lights on polyp extention is not great just i can see the polyp head is that normal
 
aslo my polyp extention is great at light off about 2- 3 ml
but when lights on polyp extention is not great just i can see the polyp head is that normal

Unless there is an underlying issue that hasn't been mentioned, it's perfectly fine. Night is when the polyps expand to catch food in the water column.
 
Folks lets try and help them rather than badger them. I believe there is a misunderstanding about bleaching corals to get them to color up. First off we need water parameters to help you out and need more info like Alex T. said.

Good for you, this is a forum to help not to jump all over some one.
 
today i measured my no3 with salifret and it is zero !!!

what really fuel the zooxanthella is it po4 or no3 ??

Don't get to hung up on the numbers you get from test kits. If you have large amounts of algae growing rapidly, and browned out corals, there is nitrogen and phosphorus in the system fueling it. It's simply impossible to grow algae without nitrogen and phosphorus. It's like trying to build a block house without blocks. It can't be done. It doesn't really matter what the test kits are telling you. Mother nature is telling you something different, and she doesn't lie.;)

If you have enough nutrients in the system to fuel the rapid growth of nuisance algae and chaeto, you likely have enough nutrients to fertilize zooxanthellae and turn corals brown. If you can reduce the nutrient level to the point that chaeto stops growing, begins to break apart and die, and the nuisance algae growth slows dramatically, you will have also reduced the amount of fertilizer you're supplying to the zooxanthellae. At this point, the zooxanthellae will be forced to sustain themselves off the waste produced by their host coral, like they do out on pristine coral reefs.
 
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