New Blue Gig from iBluewater

D-Nak, thanks for that and yes, you're correct that is exactly where I am and it DOES help to hear someone say what's in my head. If this gig recovers he will get his own tank. There is no going back into the DT. Surprisingly he is still holding on. Very deflated but has not disintegrated yet. Fingers crossed. I will keep everyone posted.
 
So, for the sake of 'documentation' I really should have taken a picture earlier to show the condition of this anemone... I didn't so sorry. But for description, last night it looked like an balloon that had lost all elasticity and deflated just blowing in the wind. The past 3 days since it's been back in TT I've come home to a cloudy tank with all kinds of 'strands' floating. I did 100% water changes as soon as I got home and treated with Cipro before going to bed. Repeated same procedure for the two following days.

This morning, tank was clear but anemone was very deflated (as described above). Mouth wide open and whole animal was flapping in the current. I figured it was just a matter of time so I turned off the internal power head and just left the HOB run for minimal current. There has been no filter in that HOB just using it for airation. So, figuring I don't really have anything to loose, I placed a piece of carbon filter in the HOB and added 1/8 tbsp of Strontium. I've always noticed that Strontium has had positive impacts on my tank. Believe it or not, that anemone actually started perking up after I turned off the powerhead. It's now somewhat inflated and the mouth is somewhat closed... I know, doesn't look great but it looks 100% better than it did this morning.

 
Do you have enough live rock in QT, usually stock my live rock 1 pound per gallon, it may cause the animal to be more stress especially if you are doing 100 percent water change, I usually do just 50 percent of WC and have airstones too to run the tank. Usually after two days, they look great doing cipro.
 
No liverock or anything in the treatment tank. Just a heater, power head for circulation, thermometer, HOB and a barrier to keep anemone away from heater/power head. I'm following the directions that Minh has put up in ... he recommends this setup and has had great success.

Early on I was doing 50% WCs but the times I came home to a cloudy tank, I tested amonia and it was high (0.25) so I changed probably 95% (couldn't get it all out of the tank). This too was recommended by Minh and D-Nak (I think) in other threads so I'm following their advice since they are two who have the most experience (IMO).

I am seeing very slight improvement today. When lights came on it was gaping but not as bad (still bad ... it's all relative). I repositioned the PH so the current banks off several sides and dissapates (so the anemone doesn't 'flap in the wind' so to speak). After a few minutes the mouth acutally closed. Good sign? I hope so.

First thing....


After lights on and PH restart/reposition (as you can see it's still very deflated so I had to hold up the fold to view the mouth.
 
I would not put live rock in the QT, unless the nem was already attached to it. We don't know how Cipro affects the bacteria on the live rock.

Hang in there -- it's not over just yet. Keep us posted.
 
Yeah, it ought to. It's been in Cipro treatment on and off since the beginning of October. I'm actually surprised it's still alive. If the worst that happens is it bleaches out then I'm okay with that ... I can bring it back from that. That's why I kept bringing it out of treatment, because I just have a cheesy LED on the TT. It's acually not quite as light as it appears in the photos though.
 
Looking better. I know it's a lot of work, but definitely worth it. Moving is actually a good sign. Most gigs don't move and for it to use energy to move means it's got the energy to do so. In terms of bleaching, I think it's fine -- it still has a brown color which means it's still got zooxanthellae.
 
Thanks everyone. I came down this morning to a cloudy tank. He looked melted and was gaping. I did a very quick 100% WC and 1/8 tsp Strontium. Again, he's coming back together. This little tank has no biofilter so I may just start doing 50% morning and night because the ammonia builds up too fast if I just do once a day.

Also, in cleaning the DT today I found a dead Turbo Snail (very stinky); it was near where this anemone was placed but there was no trace of ammonia from DT test. D-NAK, could it be that this is what's been bothering this anemone or do you still think the RBTAs are the culprits? I don't want to even try to put this guy back in the DT if you do think its the btas because he surely wouldn't make it a fourth time.
 
If it was mine, I would not put it back in the tank with the BTA's. I have experienced both success and failure in mixing different species. And, (not telling what to do, just what I would do) I would continue to do large water changes (100%), atleast until it stays looking good for a couple days in a row. I did 100% at times, when it was doing well I would do 50%, and usually every day. Turns into a pain, I know. I never used DT water, I always started with 24 hour aged fresh SW (with airstone in both new water, and HOB filter). I agree, no LR unless it's attached to it.

Best of luck!
 
taylor_t - yes I am with you, I'm not putting it back with the BTAs. I don't want to get ahead of myself either. I'll be lucky if it even makes it.

I was thinking 2-50% changes so it's only 12 hours between WC instead of 24. I think I'm going to give it a shot and see. As it stands, I'm now a water factory. I use DT water because it's at the right temp and aged. I can't make water fast so the DT can withstand cooler and not as aged water.
 
Thanks everyone. I came down this morning to a cloudy tank. He looked melted and was gaping. I did a very quick 100% WC and 1/8 tsp Strontium. Again, he's coming back together. This little tank has no biofilter so I may just start doing 50% morning and night because the ammonia builds up too fast if I just do once a day.

Also, in cleaning the DT today I found a dead Turbo Snail (very stinky); it was near where this anemone was placed but there was no trace of ammonia from DT test. D-NAK, could it be that this is what's been bothering this anemone or do you still think the RBTAs are the culprits? I don't want to even try to put this guy back in the DT if you do think its the btas because he surely wouldn't make it a fourth time.

I don't think we can conclusively say that the snail had something to do with it. It could be that the snail fell into the nem while it was in the DT and it tried to eat it, managed to kill it, but didn't have the energy to process it, so it spit it out. Or it could've been that the snail just died.

At this point, I would not put the gig back into the DT for a few weeks. If it recovers, you can stop Cipro treatment, but I'd leave it in the QT tank (monitoring water quality) but you probably won't have to do as many water changes.
 
For water changes, I would use freshly aged salt water, following the manufacturer's instructions. For example, I use aquavitro, and they recommend using it as soon as it's dissolved (I do a quick alk and pH check). The alternative is to continue to use DT water, but filter it through carbon to try to remove any chemicals that may be bothering the gig.
 
I'm very bummed to report that the Gig didn't make it. I had to pull the plug on it this evening. Thanks to everyone who offered advice. I am pretty convinced that it was the RBTAs. I can't tell you how bad I feel right now.
 
Sorry that it didn't make it. While it could've been the BTAs, we just don't know enough about allelopathy to be certain. We also don't know what type of ailments nems succomb to in the wild, or while in transport. Cipro has a very good track record, especially with gigantea, but it's not a 100% cure all. It could be that your nem was doomed from the get go.
 
Sorry about the gig. You should be commended for going to such lengths to save it. Sometimes there is just no way to bring one back, unfortunately.
 
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