NEW plumbing method for an ULTRA QUIET REEF TANK!!!! LONG !!!!
- Thread starter Herbie
- Start date
PowermanKW
New member
Yes, that is what I use.
Rhodes19
New member
+1. I have that on my 180 and works fine.
Rhodes19
New member
Thanks Powerman, I appreciate your help. I just called the last Ace Hardware store in the area and they have a 1 1/4" gate valve. I'll give it a try and see it it works. I almost want to stick to 1 1/2" because I wont have to use adapters and it is already much quieter. Even with out a valve in place. If it doesn't work I'll order one from U.S. Plastics. I like the idea of using a threaded one so you can change it out and reuse it.
Well, the 1 1/4" gate valve worked. I was able to bring the water level up to just below the emergency overflow but I was getting some water rushing noise in the gate valve. It wasn't much but I could notice it. I put the 1 1/2" ball valve back on and it was perfectly quiet. No noise at all. I'll order a 1 1/2" gate valve and put it on.
Reefer08
New member
Thanks for the reply. Ill try the herbie out and let you guys know how it goes.
TheFishMan65
New member
Having read a couple of threads gate valves are easier to adjust, but some are prone to leaking. I don't see a reason to up size your valve.
gated drain just below the surface
emergency above the surface
gated drain just below the surface
emergency above the surface
Rhodes19
New member
Go with a gate valve. That will give you more fine tuning control where its harder to do it with a ball valve. Ball valve works, but is difficult to fine tune. For valve size, stick with your pipe diameter. I had go 1 1/2" to 1 1/4" because that was all that was available. It worked but I did get some water rushing noise through the valve. Have your hose submerged. about 4" should be ok. It will reduce spray and salt creep. HTH
balancing a herbie
balancing a herbie
I recently set up a 125 fowlr with a herbie overflow (1" primary w/ gate valve and 3/4" dry) to a 55 sump with a quietone 3000 return (1"). The primary drain is about an inch below the bottom of the overflow teeth. The 1" return line has a 1" pipe returning to the sump and controlled via a ball valve. It is difficult to get it quiet, either the drain is sucking air or the when it is closed down, the return pump chamber level falls and the pump starts sucking air.
Any ideas how to remedy this?
balancing a herbie
I recently set up a 125 fowlr with a herbie overflow (1" primary w/ gate valve and 3/4" dry) to a 55 sump with a quietone 3000 return (1"). The primary drain is about an inch below the bottom of the overflow teeth. The 1" return line has a 1" pipe returning to the sump and controlled via a ball valve. It is difficult to get it quiet, either the drain is sucking air or the when it is closed down, the return pump chamber level falls and the pump starts sucking air.
Any ideas how to remedy this?
paulyl61
New member
Skraj011,
Your primary drain should be MUCH lower, you are essentially trying to tune your drain with about a 1/4 inch margin for error. I have had a Herbie running for a couple of years, I use a ball valve and my drains are about 6 inches apart. It took me about 20 minutes to tune the first time but since then only minor adjustments, usually I just do a quick wide open flush and then back to the original position. If you lower the primary 6-8 inches you should be able to tune it pretty quick.
Your primary drain should be MUCH lower, you are essentially trying to tune your drain with about a 1/4 inch margin for error. I have had a Herbie running for a couple of years, I use a ball valve and my drains are about 6 inches apart. It took me about 20 minutes to tune the first time but since then only minor adjustments, usually I just do a quick wide open flush and then back to the original position. If you lower the primary 6-8 inches you should be able to tune it pretty quick.
oralsturgeon
Premium Member
Love the idea of complete silence. Ok, not enough time to read 120 pages, but has anyone tried this type of drain with 2 non synchronous surge devices?? I would think that surges would create a need for constant adjustments...Ok, back to reading....
thanks for the great advice.
Rhodes19
New member
+1. You need to lower your your stand pipe. Here is a picture of mine. Disregard the reflection of the CD.
Hi,
my tank and sump are on the same shelf (sump is 1 foot lower). The plumbing is therefor almost horizontal and only drops about 4 inches. Can I use this syphon method to reduce bubbles and noise?
I'm having trouble getting the syphon to start. sorry i'm sure the diections are somewhere but i can't find how to get it to start. I guess i open both ball valves then close the syphon one. let the water cover the syphon then open the ball vavle. I repeated this a few times to purge any air. Wont start syphoning though.
Probably because its only a 4 inch drop but if anyone has any ideas then thanks heaps
Aaron
my tank and sump are on the same shelf (sump is 1 foot lower). The plumbing is therefor almost horizontal and only drops about 4 inches. Can I use this syphon method to reduce bubbles and noise?
I'm having trouble getting the syphon to start. sorry i'm sure the diections are somewhere but i can't find how to get it to start. I guess i open both ball valves then close the syphon one. let the water cover the syphon then open the ball vavle. I repeated this a few times to purge any air. Wont start syphoning though.
Probably because its only a 4 inch drop but if anyone has any ideas then thanks heaps
Aaron
noobtothereef
New member
+1. You need to lower your your stand pipe. Here is a picture of mine. Disregard the reflection of the CD.
cool!! rock shaped like toilet seats!!
Rhodes19
New member
LMAO!!! Yeah, it will make it easier to scoop poop later on.
It was some left over DIY rock I made and my wife thought it would look good there with the light shining through it. Happy wife, happy life!!Similar threads
