Newbie Corner Feedback Thread
- Thread starter WaterKeeper
- Start date
That is the extremely poor taste practice of trying to keep a thread alive my making a meaningless post to bring a thread to the top of the forum, See also PaulBanism.
Tom, I have a question based on your article "Reefkeeping 101 - Natural Filtration - Part 2", the section on Getting to the Bottom of Things with the use of a Deep Sand Bed (DSB) and getting this started. The starting position for my question is that the tank is bare, or perhaps the DSB is going in a refugium with little existing Live Rock so it an easy process to add the sand. Let’s say that you are luckily enough to have a number of hobby members agree to seed some sand for you (convert dead sand to live sand in their tank). I give them a container with 4" (about 10cm for us down under) of dead sand and sometime after this, bring the newly converted Live Sand back home to the place on top of the dead sand in my tank.
The Live Sand that we are taking home is hopefully Layered (zones of decreasing oxygen with different critters living in each layer). You suggested that we pour the Live Sand over the dead sand and then use the pencil to push some live sand into the dead sand. When we pour the Live Sand over the dead sand, you are going to mix up the layers â€"œ does this make any difference to the critters. Are they happy enough to start making new layers (with little loss of life)? Would we be better off trying to add the sand so that it had the same layers in the new tank as it had in the container (invert the container into a second container and then invert this container into the new tank) â€"œ but not on top of dead sand, directly onto the bottom of the tank. This would be a whole lot of extra work; do you think there would be any significant benefit?
Should I just give out a container with only say 1†or 2†of sand so that it comes back with only the top or top two layers of critters?
By the way, thanks for the column.
The Live Sand that we are taking home is hopefully Layered (zones of decreasing oxygen with different critters living in each layer). You suggested that we pour the Live Sand over the dead sand and then use the pencil to push some live sand into the dead sand. When we pour the Live Sand over the dead sand, you are going to mix up the layers â€"œ does this make any difference to the critters. Are they happy enough to start making new layers (with little loss of life)? Would we be better off trying to add the sand so that it had the same layers in the new tank as it had in the container (invert the container into a second container and then invert this container into the new tank) â€"œ but not on top of dead sand, directly onto the bottom of the tank. This would be a whole lot of extra work; do you think there would be any significant benefit?
Should I just give out a container with only say 1†or 2†of sand so that it comes back with only the top or top two layers of critters?
By the way, thanks for the column.
El Camaron
New member
Waterkeeper, is 13 watts per galon too much?
I ran across a deal for a 250 metal halide with 2 65 w CF and was wondering if it would be ok for a 29 galon biocube?
thanks for you help
I ran across a deal for a 250 metal halide with 2 65 w CF and was wondering if it would be ok for a 29 galon biocube?
thanks for you help
Seth,
The pencil push is just to provide bacteria to the lower levels of a "dead sand" base. It really doesn't count if you don't do it but it may speed up the process of bed development. As to seed sand, when one transports sand it pretty much mixes up the layers anyway. Once added to the tank, nature will take its course, and the layering effect will occur.
Hi Salud,
That depends on who you ask. Dana Riddle, a well known biologist, fees that photo inhibition of corals can occur under too intense of a PAR. On the other hand, many people do add such things as clams to very well illuminated tanks without a problem. My own feeling is that level is probably not too high. If problems develop simply elevating the lights will usually correct the situation.
The pencil push is just to provide bacteria to the lower levels of a "dead sand" base. It really doesn't count if you don't do it but it may speed up the process of bed development. As to seed sand, when one transports sand it pretty much mixes up the layers anyway. Once added to the tank, nature will take its course, and the layering effect will occur.
Hi Salud,
That depends on who you ask. Dana Riddle, a well known biologist, fees that photo inhibition of corals can occur under too intense of a PAR. On the other hand, many people do add such things as clams to very well illuminated tanks without a problem. My own feeling is that level is probably not too high. If problems develop simply elevating the lights will usually correct the situation.
WaterKeeper,
I just finished this month's 'Newbie Corner'. You are the very first reefer I have ever seen recommend a bio-wheel for anything in relation to a SW tank. Having done FW for many years, I find the idea of using one for QT purposes interesting.
Question on that, though. Could I just take the bio-wheel and drop it in the back chamber of my Finex (or sump for those with a tank that has one), store the filter body and then put it all together when a QT was needed? In my situation with an AIO, I really do not want a power filter hanging off the back.
The inertly submerged bio-wheel should populate with enough bacteria to reproduce rapidly when placed on the filter given the high oxygen environment these kinds of filters where designed to create, true?
Thanks,
--
Quintin
I just finished this month's 'Newbie Corner'. You are the very first reefer I have ever seen recommend a bio-wheel for anything in relation to a SW tank. Having done FW for many years, I find the idea of using one for QT purposes interesting.
Question on that, though. Could I just take the bio-wheel and drop it in the back chamber of my Finex (or sump for those with a tank that has one), store the filter body and then put it all together when a QT was needed? In my situation with an AIO, I really do not want a power filter hanging off the back.
The inertly submerged bio-wheel should populate with enough bacteria to reproduce rapidly when placed on the filter given the high oxygen environment these kinds of filters where designed to create, true?
Thanks,
--
Quintin
Gordonious
Active member
"The advantage of aragonite is that it not very dense (specific gravity ~2.94), lacks sharp edges and has buffering capability (can neutralize acids). "
I've noticed that many of the speakers and authors in the hobby(won't mention names) have not only stopped mentioning that this is an advantaged, but now stress that it is not an advantage. They claim that aragonitic substrates will not have any significant buffering effect until things are so far out of whack that most everything beneficial in your tank is already dead.
I'm no chemist, so I don't understand the complicated chemistry that occurs in my tank 100%, but I just hear what other reliable sources are saying and see if it makes sense to me. I was just curious your thoughts on this and if you disagree.
All that being said I only use aragonitic sands because of their weight, look, and texture. I just like to understand what is going on in my tank and talk with other people about there tanks intelligently.
I've noticed that many of the speakers and authors in the hobby(won't mention names) have not only stopped mentioning that this is an advantaged, but now stress that it is not an advantage. They claim that aragonitic substrates will not have any significant buffering effect until things are so far out of whack that most everything beneficial in your tank is already dead.
I'm no chemist, so I don't understand the complicated chemistry that occurs in my tank 100%, but I just hear what other reliable sources are saying and see if it makes sense to me. I was just curious your thoughts on this and if you disagree.
All that being said I only use aragonitic sands because of their weight, look, and texture. I just like to understand what is going on in my tank and talk with other people about there tanks intelligently.
Paul B
Premium Member
I really hate to agree with Waterkeeper but he is correct.
I have been to many places where corals and clams grow.
We really can't re-produce the light intensity in tropical seas.
If we could, we would boil the water.
Many corals in the Caribbean are above water at low tide (which only ebbs a few inches) or just awash. The sunlight is very intense there with a full spectrum light that we also do not re-produce.
I took this picture in Bora Bora in a harbor that is filled with tridacna clams in 6" deep water. You trip over them near shore.
The light is very intense because Bora Bora is something like 6,000 miles from any mainland and there is very little pollution or haze.
MPeer
New member
Paul - I was at Bora Bora and one of its sister island Moorea last year. Did you go to the top of the mountain and see all the old US bunkers, forts, bomb shelters from WWII?
It was truly a beautiful place. However, at the same time, it was sad to see that some of the reefs that used to thrive inside the lagoon have now almost completely disappear due to the increase in tourism among other things.
Now that I think of it, the place does seem brighter there. You are right in that we can never re-create what is naturally the tropical reefs.
It was truly a beautiful place. However, at the same time, it was sad to see that some of the reefs that used to thrive inside the lagoon have now almost completely disappear due to the increase in tourism among other things.
Now that I think of it, the place does seem brighter there. You are right in that we can never re-create what is naturally the tropical reefs.
Paul B
Premium Member
Aaron, no we diden't tour the bunkers. The day we were supposed to do that we had a typhoon. We diden't see much of Moorea at all. Most of the rest of the week we dove.
We went on the Windstar Cruise.
I took this off one of the Islands.
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/13094tahiti0400081.JPG
And under another one
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/13094act05.jpg
MPeer
New member
I stayed at the hotels on both islands. The bungalows were pricey, but the best thing was that we had our own deck and was able to jump off and snorkel in the water right there.
We did go on the shark and ray feeding excursion -- a lot of black tip sharks around the lagoon though.
We did go on the shark and ray feeding excursion -- a lot of black tip sharks around the lagoon though.
Paul B
Premium Member
I also went on a ray feeding expedition, There was only 6 of us in tiny 2 people boats. The sharks are like guppies there you have to be careful not to jump on them when you enter the water. Our ship had a dive shop aboard so we could dive right from the boat twice a day.
Take care.
Paul
Take care.
Paul
P.Kelly
New member
Tom,
Can you either point me at, or give a quick primer on what to expect and best practices for cycling a new tank with "dead" rock and sand. I killed it all with bleach, and then did a number of soaks in a dechlorination product. It then sat in the tank in fresh salt water for a week or so, I'm ready to start growing bacteria. What now?
Can you either point me at, or give a quick primer on what to expect and best practices for cycling a new tank with "dead" rock and sand. I killed it all with bleach, and then did a number of soaks in a dechlorination product. It then sat in the tank in fresh salt water for a week or so, I'm ready to start growing bacteria. What now?
Waterkeeper,
Thanks for the Natural Filtration Article Part II. I have now converted my established live rock tank to a 5 inch DSB. In you article you recommend staying away from live stock that would disturb the deeper portion of the sand bead and large burrowing fish.
However, I was wondering if you would have concerns over adding any of the following:
1. a pair of diamond gobys ... my understanding is they only sift the top layer of the sand bed.
2. blue spot jawfish .... they are a relatively small fish.
Also, I have a pair of bar gobys who have tunneled under some of the live rock.
Are they a concern with maintaining the DSB?
Thanks!
Ray
Thanks for the Natural Filtration Article Part II. I have now converted my established live rock tank to a 5 inch DSB. In you article you recommend staying away from live stock that would disturb the deeper portion of the sand bead and large burrowing fish.
However, I was wondering if you would have concerns over adding any of the following:
1. a pair of diamond gobys ... my understanding is they only sift the top layer of the sand bed.
2. blue spot jawfish .... they are a relatively small fish.
Also, I have a pair of bar gobys who have tunneled under some of the live rock.
Are they a concern with maintaining the DSB?
Thanks!
Ray
Hello to all!! As a newbie to the soft coral reef tank all I can do is look around in awe at the tanks that I have seen. If I had not been totally bitten by the bug before I was directed to this site I am hopelessly sunk now! About my tank... 75 gallon starter, three months old tank, with twelve (who-hoo) shiney mushrooms two feathers and a starburst that looks fabo some damsels and a nemo/anemo...plenty of hermit crabs, two feathers and lotsa live rok. I am itching to move ahead... i kno patience is a virtue but can someone tell me if I am ready??
Ok, this is the part where I show my lack of intelligence, lol...
running: 4 Coralife 10,000k 55watt compact florescent 21 inch lights
two filters, Aqua Clear one for 75 gal and one for a 60 gal
one small power head:Rio 180
Tank measurements:
Ammonia= 0
Nitrite=0
Nitrate=20 i dunno why this is staying high??
PH=7.8-8.0
Either way, my name is Chris and you guys are such the jam when it comes to tanks. Cudos to Progressive Marine for sending me here, the most awsome unsolicited non-advertised shop in mobile alabama!
Nice to meet everyone! Upwards and onwards...
20
Ok, this is the part where I show my lack of intelligence, lol...
running: 4 Coralife 10,000k 55watt compact florescent 21 inch lights
two filters, Aqua Clear one for 75 gal and one for a 60 gal
one small power head:Rio 180
Tank measurements:
Ammonia= 0
Nitrite=0
Nitrate=20 i dunno why this is staying high??
PH=7.8-8.0
Either way, my name is Chris and you guys are such the jam when it comes to tanks. Cudos to Progressive Marine for sending me here, the most awsome unsolicited non-advertised shop in mobile alabama!
Nice to meet everyone! Upwards and onwards...
20
herozero
Active member
So stoked to be here!
So stoked to be here!
A super noob! Hi everyone, very glad to be here. I'm a scuba diver who has too much dust on his (scuba) equipment and have decided to take the plunge and put a little bit of the beautiful ocean I don't see as much anymore in my apartment. Due to size and budget, I've started small, 20G (24x13x16) with 24 lbs. Fiji rock. Tank has been up since Friday 6/25/08, stable pH just over 8.1, SG about 1.0226, sand and rock are in and we have the beginnings of some brown looking algae hitting the scene. I know the 20G won't be able to handle a ton of livestock and am aware of the difficulties of maintaining smaller tanks, but I figure some extra TLC are in order if I want to go big in the new home that is in sight within 24 months. Patience is not my strongest virtue, so this is a true test! I am looking forward to ammonia levels going above zero pretty soon and adding some algae eaters and such before adding some fish after August vacation.
I love the forums, all kinds of great information and I can't wait to post my little coral paradise!
So stoked to be here!
A super noob! Hi everyone, very glad to be here. I'm a scuba diver who has too much dust on his (scuba) equipment and have decided to take the plunge and put a little bit of the beautiful ocean I don't see as much anymore in my apartment. Due to size and budget, I've started small, 20G (24x13x16) with 24 lbs. Fiji rock. Tank has been up since Friday 6/25/08, stable pH just over 8.1, SG about 1.0226, sand and rock are in and we have the beginnings of some brown looking algae hitting the scene. I know the 20G won't be able to handle a ton of livestock and am aware of the difficulties of maintaining smaller tanks, but I figure some extra TLC are in order if I want to go big in the new home that is in sight within 24 months. Patience is not my strongest virtue, so this is a true test! I am looking forward to ammonia levels going above zero pretty soon and adding some algae eaters and such before adding some fish after August vacation.
I love the forums, all kinds of great information and I can't wait to post my little coral paradise!
Paul B
Premium Member
It doesen't matter what water you start out with as long as you remove whatever substances are in the water that would cause harm to corals. Well water may be fine but well water can also have heavy metals and insecticides along with nitrate. You could have it tested or use reverse osmosis or deionization, preferably both.
Good luck.
Paul
Good luck.
Paul
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