Noisy Vortech DrySide FIX!!

When i say louder than my other pumps.. i meant to say. Louder than my other vortech pumps. After replacing the bearings, i placed two pumps side by side, without the wet side. One is my newer vortech and the other is the newly replaced bearing pump. I then powered both of them with the same settings. The vortech with new bearings was still louder than the my other vortech. The noise was less prior to replacement, but could be improve. Thats why im thinking on looking for better bearings.

I agree with your analogy about the internal pumps being much quiter, i have had tunzes pumps on my previous set up and love it. With all the hype about the vortech, i wanted to try it out for my new set up. But keeping most of my tunzes just incase the performance or noise does not meet my expectation.
 
Thanks for the update!

Can you provide the details on the bearings that didn't seem to work out, so we (I) can avoid buying those?

Thanks!


i just changed the bearings one one of my vortech. The noise dropped alot, but its still louder than my other pumps. I must have bought a wrong bearings from ebay. I'm planning on buying other bearings just to try it out.
 
Thanks for the update!

Can you provide the details on the bearings that didn't seem to work out, so we (I) can avoid buying those?

Thanks!

I would wait till he gets new bearings. It could just be out of balance, or something.
if he replaces the bearings and the noise goes down to factory, then you have an answer. if the noise doesnt change with a different brand of bearings, then its something else.....

just a thought.
 
soory for the long gap in response time...just stared a new job

soory for the long gap in response time...just stared a new job

here it is guys the write up it fairly simple close to what the mp40 is but the only difference is that the base plate will need to be cut off and when you done reglued.

If your worried about cosmetics need not do the repair yourself as your going to do some damage to the casing

Fist you need to peel the sticker off ( once you do this it will void your warranty )



then you will see the four screws that hold the motor to the shell i removed these first when i was taking it apart but found out that the plastic on the other side just doesnt come off so easily

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I would recommend leaving those on. First your going to need to cut off the plastic cover on the side that touches the glass. I used a kitchen knife for this because i can flex it a bend it without worrying about it shattering like an x-acto or box cutter might.

http://images9.fotki.com/v1618/photos/6/210466/9213694/IMG_0355-vi.jpg

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now you remove the 3 motor screws. I used a torks t15 but i believe its a 2.5 or 2 allen key

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be careful with the power cable as it is flimsy and the wires are thin. Just shimmy the motor out being careful not to pull on the cable.

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First remove the magnet from the motor this is the hard part, you might need a second person for this part, what your going to need is the allen key on one side and have someone hold the motor and useing a flat head screw driver hold the shaft on the oppisite side of the magnet as you unscrew the magnet off. There might be what you think is debris on the magnet whatever you do don't clean it off it will help center the magnet upon reassembly

then your going to remove the 3 screws that hold the 2 motor end caps together

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then you pry the cap off ( the side with out the power cable) which shouldnt be to hard to reveil the internals and the first of two bearings. you will cafefully pull the center section which is the magnet and the bearings. (careful with the magnet that part is proprietary and will not have a replacement)

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carefully remove the two bearings (sorry i dont have a picture of this procedure as i got kind of angry that i couldnt remove it easily)

this is what i did i had a cheap fork laying around i bent one of the prongs out of the way and put the fork between the bearing and the magnet, being careful not to hit the magnet i slowly rocked the bearing back and forth and it slowly came off. The bearings aren't pressed on or anything its just and exact fit. You can also try the rocking motion with just using yout fingers. I could after i took it off the first time.

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Once your done just replace the bearings and start the reassembly process. When i took mine apart i noticed there are 2 washers and a spring washer at the bottom for anyone that drops it or it sticks the the magnet. the order is washer, washer , spring.


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when its time to put it back together find where the plastic fits together best and using a little bit of epoxy( i used a two part) and a toothpick dab and cap it and your done
 
works great.. you should have heard it before my gen-x pcx pump was quieter then this thing... not silent. im running three mp10s and by far is the quietest one out of the three
 
Twisted it in my hand as I was getting the screwdriver in between the bearing and shaft/main body, must have had a weak spot as a chunk came off. It was a gen 1 so who knows, maybe the magnet wasn't all that great.

Then after that I dropped it. Definitely toast.
 
I would honestly REALLY avoid trying to put a screwdriver between the magnet and bearing at all costs. It's not worth it as it's so easy to chip off a small, or large piece of the magnet. I actually did the same sort of thing, I chipped a really tiny chunk off, but it didn't affect the performance... For those who do not have pullers, do what I did, as it works like a charm; clamp the bearing between a vice, with the impeller/magnet assembly hanging down(put some soft blankets underneath to catch it, for if it falls!). Find a socket or punch that'll fit on the shaft. With small taps, hit it until the shaft pushes out... If you don't have a vice, you can probably try vice grips. vice grips would probably work better as they would grab right around the bearing more rigid then a bench vice... I did this with both my bearings. It made it very easy to NOT break important parts.
Also, don't try and clamp the bearing too hard, as you could end up just squeezing the bearing harder to the shaft making it even more difficult to get the bearing moving off the shaft. Try and clamp it just hard enough to hold it for the little taps it takes to get the bearing moving off.
 
I would honestly REALLY avoid trying to put a screwdriver between the magnet and bearing at all costs. It's not worth it as it's so easy to chip off a small, or large piece of the magnet. I actually did the same sort of thing, I chipped a really tiny chunk off, but it didn't affect the performance... For those who do not have pullers, do what I did, as it works like a charm; clamp the bearing between a vice, with the impeller/magnet assembly hanging down(put some soft blankets underneath to catch it, for if it falls!). Find a socket or punch that'll fit on the shaft. With small taps, hit it until the shaft pushes out... If you don't have a vice, you can probably try vice grips. vice grips would probably work better as they would grab right around the bearing more rigid then a bench vice... I did this with both my bearings. It made it very easy to NOT break important parts.
Also, don't try and clamp the bearing too hard, as you could end up just squeezing the bearing harder to the shaft making it even more difficult to get the bearing moving off the shaft. Try and clamp it just hard enough to hold it for the little taps it takes to get the bearing moving off.

Awesome tip and "thinking outside the box"!!! Now I just have to try it! :lolspin:
 
I would honestly REALLY avoid trying to put a screwdriver between the magnet and bearing at all costs. It's not worth it as it's so easy to chip off a small, or large piece of the magnet. I actually did the same sort of thing, I chipped a really tiny chunk off, but it didn't affect the performance... For those who do not have pullers, do what I did, as it works like a charm; clamp the bearing between a vice, with the impeller/magnet assembly hanging down(put some soft blankets underneath to catch it, for if it falls!). Find a socket or punch that'll fit on the shaft. With small taps, hit it until the shaft pushes out... If you don't have a vice, you can probably try vice grips. vice grips would probably work better as they would grab right around the bearing more rigid then a bench vice... I did this with both my bearings. It made it very easy to NOT break important parts.
Also, don't try and clamp the bearing too hard, as you could end up just squeezing the bearing harder to the shaft making it even more difficult to get the bearing moving off the shaft. Try and clamp it just hard enough to hold it for the little taps it takes to get the bearing moving off.

Dang I wish you'd posted this before I had my little "mishap" :lol2:

Anyway, some very lovely person sent me a spare dryside they had and my pump is working again. Bonus: the "new" dryside has good bearings and is nice and quiet :spin1:
 
hello new here how are you all :)
i have a question about the bearings for the mp10 ,
what are you using for replacement?
i took mine out and measured them it came out 7 x 15 x 5 , which is different to the
ones recommended here. also i cant find 7x15x5 size anywhere and seems to be an unusual measurement . has anyone else encountered this ?
am i measuring wrong ?
 
Also curious about what bearing is needed for the MP10...going to attempt this on mine.

I would like to know this as well. The dry side on my MP10 has become intolerably loud and my only other option is to purchase a new dry side for $100 so I'd rather try this first.
 
Have you guys read through this thread before asking, specifically post 48?

CJ

I read through the thread and that post, but he doesn't follow up on the success (or failure possibly?) of his swap. Also I'm also assuming the MP10 would use two different bearings similar to the MP40, so I kind of wanted input from someone that successfully did it on exactly what size I should buy as I'd be ordering online and want to get it right before I place my order.
 
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