Sisterlimonpot
Premium Member
Noisy Vortech DrySide FIX!!
- Thread starter dahenley
- Start date
Napi Napoli
New member
Thought I'd give this thread an update as I just got done replacing the bearings on my MP10 
.
I've been meaning to fix my noisy MP10 for several months now but just hadn't because it wasn't bugging quite enough to push me to finally order some bearings. Until the past couple weeks when it really started getting bad. The past couple weeks it was so noisy I actually had it turned completely down and you could still very clearly hear it growling even with the TV on in the same room.
So I ordered two replacement bearings from Bocabearing...
Shipped right out and got here yesterday. So replaced them today, if I would have known how relatively painless replacing them was I would have done it a LONG time ago. $37 is also a lot easier to swallow than over $100 for a new MP10 dry side. My vortech is now whisper quiet again. Even going 100% flat out you pretty much have to look in the tank or put your hand on the dry side to tell that it is running.
This is a relatively easy fix *PROVIDED* you have a little bit of mechanical/DIY knowledge and the right tools to do it with. My dad is a mechanic so we have an entire garage filled with all kinds of specialized tools including pullers and presses. The part that took the longest and was the most difficult on mine was just getting the outer plastic case on the dry side cracked open. On the MP10 the two pieces of the outer case are held together with contact cement so you have to pry and just fidge with it until you get it apart.
Thanks so much for this thread dahenley!
Now if I could just find where the weird whistling from my skimmer is coming from...
.I've been meaning to fix my noisy MP10 for several months now but just hadn't because it wasn't bugging quite enough to push me to finally order some bearings. Until the past couple weeks when it really started getting bad. The past couple weeks it was so noisy I actually had it turned completely down and you could still very clearly hear it growling even with the TV on in the same room.
So I ordered two replacement bearings from Bocabearing...
Shipped right out and got here yesterday. So replaced them today, if I would have known how relatively painless replacing them was I would have done it a LONG time ago. $37 is also a lot easier to swallow than over $100 for a new MP10 dry side. My vortech is now whisper quiet again. Even going 100% flat out you pretty much have to look in the tank or put your hand on the dry side to tell that it is running.
This is a relatively easy fix *PROVIDED* you have a little bit of mechanical/DIY knowledge and the right tools to do it with. My dad is a mechanic so we have an entire garage filled with all kinds of specialized tools including pullers and presses. The part that took the longest and was the most difficult on mine was just getting the outer plastic case on the dry side cracked open. On the MP10 the two pieces of the outer case are held together with contact cement so you have to pry and just fidge with it until you get it apart.
Thanks so much for this thread dahenley!
Now if I could just find where the weird whistling from my skimmer is coming from...
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I've got my MP20 (same as MP40) apart, but cannot for the life of me get the bearings off.
Tried the use a fork with 1 prong bent back approach, got it under 1 bearing, wiggled and all sorts but no go... any tips?
Even if I do get that one bearing off the other is near flush with the magnet, not sure how i'd get anything under it.
I assume the shaft is attached to the magnet.
Thanks
Tried the use a fork with 1 prong bent back approach, got it under 1 bearing, wiggled and all sorts but no go... any tips?
Even if I do get that one bearing off the other is near flush with the magnet, not sure how i'd get anything under it.
I assume the shaft is attached to the magnet.
Thanks
dahenley
New member
shaft is attached to the magnet
a fork is not a good tool to use....
you need a bearing press/splitter.
i posted pictures/link to one earlier in the thread.
it is made for removing bearings from shafts. its also low profile with tapered pieces to where it can get in low profile places.
the bearings are tight on the shaft and have to be. if they are loose then they can spin and gall the shaft and cause more heat.
if you know a mechanic friend, or have a mechanic that does all your work, then they may allow you to use one of theirs. (it wont take but a min to get both off, and if you have a vice, then its easy to get them on.)
a fork is not a good tool to use....
you need a bearing press/splitter.
i posted pictures/link to one earlier in the thread.
it is made for removing bearings from shafts. its also low profile with tapered pieces to where it can get in low profile places.
the bearings are tight on the shaft and have to be. if they are loose then they can spin and gall the shaft and cause more heat.
if you know a mechanic friend, or have a mechanic that does all your work, then they may allow you to use one of theirs. (it wont take but a min to get both off, and if you have a vice, then its easy to get them on.)
dahenley
New member
A second option is to put the bearing in a vice (lightly) with magnet pointing down and use a flat bottom drift (punch/chisel) and lightly tap on the shaft and drive it through the bearing. If you can have a 2nd person to help hold the magnet to prevent it from falling, breaking, chipping, shattering, ect.
It will work with 0 clearance. Just be careful and take it slow.
It will work with 0 clearance. Just be careful and take it slow.
Okso got the bearings off (drilled a hole larger than magnet in a thick piece of wood), then stuck a thin bit of metal (but strong metal) under either side of one of the bearings.. rested this through the hole then using a hole punch just smaller than the shaft diameter carefully punched the shaft off.
Now.. I have the 2 correct replacement bearings.. but I read somewhere they have to go on the right way round (not talking 8mm on one side 7mm on the other, that is clearly visibly), but I read the bearings themselves have to go a certain way round?
I can't see any marker on the bearings I bought that would say this.. does it matter or can I just take a bearing and put it on?
Thanks
Now.. I have the 2 correct replacement bearings.. but I read somewhere they have to go on the right way round (not talking 8mm on one side 7mm on the other, that is clearly visibly), but I read the bearings themselves have to go a certain way round?
I can't see any marker on the bearings I bought that would say this.. does it matter or can I just take a bearing and put it on?
Thanks
dahenley
New member
None of mine were ceramic..
I purchased eBay bearings for my vortech and they were 110% more quiet then local bearings, and in fact are what I'm currently using
Someone on here got ceramic bearings and said they were loud.... just saying, you may go somewhere else and try 1 more time with regular bearings.
Also, make sure your bearings are seated all the way, because if not, they will be noisier then they should
I purchased eBay bearings for my vortech and they were 110% more quiet then local bearings, and in fact are what I'm currently using
Someone on here got ceramic bearings and said they were loud.... just saying, you may go somewhere else and try 1 more time with regular bearings.
Also, make sure your bearings are seated all the way, because if not, they will be noisier then they should
Sisterlimonpot
Premium Member
Silver, did you buy abec5 steel bearings?
Hesham
Always learning!
shaft is attached to the magnet
a fork is not a good tool to use....
you need a bearing press/splitter.
i posted pictures/link to one earlier in the thread.
it is made for removing bearings from shafts. its also low profile with tapered pieces to where it can get in low profile places.
the bearings are tight on the shaft and have to be. if they are loose then they can spin and gall the shaft and cause more heat.
if you know a mechanic friend, or have a mechanic that does all your work, then they may allow you to use one of theirs. (it wont take but a min to get both off, and if you have a vice, then its easy to get them on.)
What size of bearing separator did you use?
not sure, they were just cheap eBay ones to see if it made ANY difference.
Is abec-5 ceramic or steel reccommended?
dahenley
New member
I ordered a 3" one from Ebay. (harbor freight only had large ones)
andi got impatient so i used the method by putting the bearing in a vice. and driving it out with a drift.
although i did use the separator plate on a few Iwaki pumps that i use on Calcium reactors and such. they are set up the same way and use a magnet drive assy that looks like the Vortech except the magnet is different. and it works. (i used to use some huge separator plates when i would take bearings that measured in excess of 10" when working in the OilField.
if you don't want to buy a separator, here is the DIY method I used, works very well:
http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=50771
you need basic tools, ie drill, some wood and a piece of metal thin enough to slot under.. I used two metal pain scrapers, one under "each side" of the bearing then used the flat end of a drill bit just below the size of the shaft with a hammer to punch it off the bearing.
Works well.
http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=50771
you need basic tools, ie drill, some wood and a piece of metal thin enough to slot under.. I used two metal pain scrapers, one under "each side" of the bearing then used the flat end of a drill bit just below the size of the shaft with a hammer to punch it off the bearing.
Works well.
