Oceanic Tech Tank Owners Thread

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I have no doubt that you can see through a 14" piece of glass. I have no doubt that you could NOT though a 36" long piece of regular glass. But you could through low iron or Starphire.

In any case all Oceanic Tech's made after July of 06 I can guarantee have Starphire fronts. Before that when they were made in Dallas I cannot guarantee. They may be Starphire fronts and they may also be low iron glass. The ones made with low iron glass likely also have low iron sides as well.

Tech's were NEVER made with regular glass fronts.

Andy
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11515151#post11515151 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by AndyNarwhal
Tech's were NEVER made with regular glass fronts.

While that may be categorically true, can you really guarantee that there has never been a production assembly error?
 
That would be extremely unlikely.

Tech tank glass is dimensionally different than the glass used on other tanks so it would be impossible for them to mix up a panel used on a regular 90 gallon with a Tech 90 gallon.

And the possibility of accidentally using a back panel for a front panel is likewise unlikely. The background is applied to the back panel before assembly. Even before the pieces are even brought together in the same area.

Besides the labels on the pallets that identify the glass when you look at two pallets side by side in a stack its very easy to identify which is the low iron and which is not.

Andy
 
Not being an Oceanic employee, I'll have to defer to your experience. I agree it is VERY VERY VERY unlikely, but I would never use the word impossible. I've seen many strange things come out of production assembly lines that were impossible.

Anyway, back to the thread...
 
I've just picked up my 70g Tech.
I'm still deciding on various items, such as return pump and lighting.

Not into SPS so much, but I wouldn't mind trying a clam and plates on the sandbed. However, being 36inch long, I can't seem to find the ideal lighting fixture and I'm concerned about MHs as I don't want a whopping electricity bill. Considering the 6x39wTek T5 fixture all the way to an Outer Orbit 2x150W/T5. Has to be tank mounted.

I was thinking Eheim 1250 for the return pump (I have a Megaflow3 as a sump.

I'd love to hear from anyone with experience with these tanks. Many thanks in advance.
 
Yea, i have the 48" Outer Orbit Pro 2 X 250 MH/T-5 over my Tech 120. Awesome light for the money...:D

Joe:cool:
 
I am setting my 70tech up now. For lights I was concerned about the black eurobrace blocking the light if I used 6x39 T5's. I decided to go with a 250w MH retro with a narrow reflector and hopefully I'll be able to squeeze 4x39w actinic to supplement. I know some of that 4x39 will hang over the eurobrace. I'm also going with a low flow drain/return and a higher flow closed loop. For the return pump I'm gonna shoot for no more than 400gph through the drain. I'll be using an external skimmer which will be gravity fed from a T off the drain. For the closed loop I'm gonna go over the top with dual intakes fit right along side the overflow box, there is just enough space between the eurobrace and the overflow box to fit a 1" pipe. The returns for the closed loop will utilize an oceanmotion squirt and probably come through the holes in the back eurobrace. I'm considering trying to drop the inside two down into the tank at least halfway to help with flow in the lower parts of the tank.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11520453#post11520453 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mdbrit
However, being 36inch long, I can't seem to find the ideal lighting fixture and I'm concerned about MHs as I don't want a whopping electricity bill.

What about a Lumenarc Mini (250W MH) supplemented bt T5's or VHO's? I've got a pair of Lumenarc Mini's and will probably supplement with actinics in the future.
 
Interesting ideas there. Would love to see how it turns out. Pics!!!

I feel my ideal light would be 4x39W T5s with one 150w or 250w MH. I don't like PC bulbs these days and no-one does a 36inch MH with T5s it seems. All T5s should hopefully keep the running costs lower plus in the summer I don't want heat to be an issue as I don't have room under the tank for a chiller (nor do I wish to run one).
I sure do like the MH shimmer though....tough one this...
 
With a single MH over a 36" long tank, it is going to have crappy dark edges as the light is more focused. A good rule of thumb I have found is...

1MH per 20-24" of tank length.
 
Good point, which is no doubt why they all seem to be dual MH fixtures!
Do you think the 2x150w would do? 2x150w with 4x39W T5's seems like a lot of light for a 70g, even if it is deep.
 
70 Gallon Tech
Solaris H Series Lighting
ADHI Model 30 Refugium
Tunze 9010
Tunze 6101 on a Single Controller
TLF Phosphate Reactor 150
100 LBS LR
 
I plan to keep mainly softies, shrooms, but did want to try a clam and plates for the bottom. Also, I was planning on getting some shelf-live rock, so there's higher up levels in the tank for stuff.
I'm just concerned about running costs and heat but also don't want to get the wrong thing and find that it's underpowered.
 
Well your tank is 25H.... I have never run a 150W on anything other than 18" deep tank so not sure how well it will do adding an extra 7" of depth... Guess I could raise my current 150W up 7" and see how she looks but I have no way to measure the par.

Well anyways for softies like what you want to keep, or mabey sps up high you should be perfectly ok.

Also just to note, I have a crocea clam in the bottom of my tank, not even directly under the MH and it has done great for about 6 months so far, very healthy.
 
I plan on having a 4 inch deep sand bed also, so that might help with the depth issue, as well as a shelf or two.
 
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