Official: Masterflex Calcium Reactor Setup Thread

[hkgar]

I switched from Reef Crystals to Red Sea do to the high Alk. Here is a chart of salt mix levels:

http://www.thatpetplace.com/salt-mix-guide

Never thought about using muriatic acid. Wouldn't vinegar work as well?

 

[herring_fish]

This thread is fantastic! I have read this entire thread and a lot of it went right over my head but it rings true. Reading things over and over again as I went from page to page has given me a clue but only that.

Actually, I think that I have learned a lot and I thank everyone for their input, especially tkeracer619 for starting it. Your first few posts have stood up under all kinds of scrutiny and you have helped a lot of people.

The down side of this is that you do need to drop a pretty penny if you want to do it right. I think that doing it right is the only way to go.

As I read this thread, I noticed that the motors and controllers were getting harder and harder to find at a good price as more and more people have liked this method. We even had thread watchers bidding against each other without knowing it.

As a newbie, I don't feel comfortable buying this stuff yet, given all of the combinations of part numbers that I have to choose from and my lack of knowledge of their respective values. I still couldn't free-style on Ebay. I almost wish that I could hire someone to buy this stuff for me when I get ready.

I noticed that a few pages back "¦you thought that a stepper motor could work well instead of the package that this thread is named after. I was wondering if I could drop the price of the entire package by using an Arduino mini-controller instead of the ones that were called out.

I know that we want to stay on topic as much as possible so I would take to another thread, the ongoing details of a build as it relates to the non-Cole parts of the pump, if I decided that it would be a good idea to even pursue. Aside from how the head is driven, this method would still be the same.

That being said, I called Castelino and as noted, he was very helpful. He said that I couldn't use any other controllers than theirs without a whole lot of work and he took the time to explain why.

He said that I could however, get the Masterflex head(s) and hook it to most any motor. He said that I might need to buy one of their gear mechanisms but that it could be done. He sent me several links to part numbers and the like.

The questions to me are, just how much work would it take and how good would the final results be? Would I save much money in the long run? "¦and would this be a rock solid solution? Before I spend much time even researching this idea, I would like to hear how this sounds to everyone when you really think about it.

While I am not an expert, I am familiar with programming Arduinos and I think that controlling it would be pretty easy to do. They cost about 25 or 30 bucks. I would also have to add a driver. While I could run a regular DC motor with some work on the analog side, I could run either a servo motor with the driver or a stepper motor.

With 200 steps per revolution, a stepper motor is controllable as low as I could ever want and presumably a digital signal would be very stable. Hobby grade steppers start at about 5 dollars and pretty good ones aren't that much more. I would have to see what a higher grade motor would cost and how good it would be for this application.

I am thinking that I would have to figure out how much torque it would take to run the head(s), how much work it would take to properly affix the motor to the head(s) with a coupling and how dependable a stepper motor would be when used in steady state for long term use.

I know that there are a lot of variables here and I am not asking for help figuring these details out but what do you think the outcome would be.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts and opinions.

 

[zachts]

A non-CP motor would work just fine, stepper or otherwise.

The main two factors to watch out for is that the gear and motor assembly needs to have enough torque to run the head and tubing you want to use, and also it MUST be a motor and gear assembly that has been designed and rated for continuous use.

I use several Pittman-Ametek gear motors on CP heads for various applications as they use much less power for low flow applications like this (or dosing) and are 24volt DC which makes controlling them very simple by any number of methods. They aren't rated to last near as long for continuous duty but the energy savings and much smaller size is worth it for me.

 

[tlc]

it would be nice if there was a product in America that sold an aquarium peristaltic pump like dastaco in Europe has instead of having to try some pump off ebay.

 

[skidrow52]

After following this thread I made my mind to use a peristaltic pump for my Ca reactor, but it wasnt easy for me to find the parts and the correct CP motor living out of US. I thought I will try something else, so I bought the "Kamoer Stepper Motor Peristaltic Pump KSP-F01" directly from Kamoer China the price was much cheaper than buying it online from US Stores and shipping it back to Saudi, so far I am satisfied its been 8 months its continuously in use, I only replaced the tubing twice. comes with PharMed tubing. I also bought an extra Stepper Motor, the stepper motor looks exactly like the one Neptune's DOS has.

A non-CP motor would work just fine, stepper or otherwise.

The main two factors to watch out for is that the gear and motor assembly needs to have enough torque to run the head and tubing you want to use, and also it MUST be a motor and gear assembly that has been designed and rated for continuous use.

I use several Pittman-Ametek gear motors on CP heads for various applications as they use much less power for low flow applications like this (or dosing) and are 24volt DC which makes controlling them very simple by any number of methods. They aren't rated to last near as long for continuous duty but the energy savings and much smaller size is worth it for me.

 

[d2mini]

it would be nice if there was a product in America that sold an aquarium peristaltic pump like dastaco in Europe has instead of having to try some pump off ebay.

You can buy these pumps new.
The reason we buy off eBay is because you can get them at a fraction of the price. I haven't seen the dastaco pumps but I have yet to see an aquarium specific pump of the same quality.
And I believe TritonUSA is going to be importing the Dastaco stuff soon.

 

[tlc]

d2mini thanks for the input. I have read this thread and it is a bit confusing as to what pump to get. this pump with this head and that pump with this tubing. I have read about 50 different combos that should work. I am not a huge diy person. I am also considering the kamoer as well

 

[hkgar]

d2mini thanks for the input. I have read this thread and it is a bit confusing as to what pump to get. this pump with this head and that pump with this tubing. I have read about 50 different combos that should work. I am not a huge diy person. I am also considering the kamoer as well

Not really all that much. I comes down to
Pharmed tubing or comparable. Size L16 or L17
Pump head will accept that size. Preferably easy load, but standard if you desire.
Digital Brushless motor preferable, but any motor that will run 0 to 100 rpm will work. 600 rpm may be preferred (see next post)

There may be other options within each category but those are all personal preferences.

Don't over think it.

 

[slief]

Not really all that much. I comes down to
Pharmed tubing or comparable. Size L16 or L17
Pump head will accept that size. Preferably easy load, but standard if you desire.
Digital Brushless motor preferable, but any motor that will run 0 to 600 rmp will work.

There may be other options within each category but those are all personal preferences.

Don't over think it.

Just to clarify, any motor that runs 0-100 RPM will work. Especially if it uses LS17 tubing as LS17 tubing results in 50ml/min at 17.7 RPM. 50ml/min is more than enough for most any mid size reef tanks. The key with the higher RPM is that there is less wear and tear (in theory) at lower continuous RPM's on a motor that is capable of higher RPM's such as those that run up to 600 RPM vs a motor capable 100 RPM. Thus the recomendation for a motor with a max of 600 RPM as that is the best case option. As such, just like brushless is preferred but not essential, the same can be said about the RPM. It's not like we will ever need to exceed 100 RPM continuous (Especially with LS117 tubing) let alone 600 RPM.. So the higher the RPM the better as far as theorhetical wear and tear. I'm running one that maxes out at 200 RPM and at 17 RPM, it's barely having to work and runs cold.

 

[hkgar]

Just to clarify, any motor that runs 0-100 RPM will work. Especially if it uses LS17 tubing as LS17 tubing results in 50ml/min at 17.7 RPM. 50ml/min is more than enough for most any mid size reef tanks. The key with the higher RPM is that there is less wear and tear (in theory) at lower continuous RPM's on a motor that is capable of higher RPM's such as those that run up to 600 RPM vs a motor capable 100 RPM. Thus the recomendation for a motor with a max of 600 RPM as that is the best case option. As such, just like brushless is preferred but not essential, the same can be said about the RPM. It's not like we will ever need to exceed 100 RPM continuous (Especially with LS117 tubing) let alone 600 RPM.. So the higher the RPM the better as far as theorhetical wear and tear. I'm running one that maxes out at 200 RPM and at 17 RPM, it's barely having to work and runs cold.

I changed my post to 100 rpm. Maybe I was thinking that because I run my CP ATO pump at 500 ml/min, but even that is only 176 rpm. If my math is right, 35 rpm with 17 tubing can deliver 100 ml/min.

 

[slief]

I changed my post to 100 rpm. Maybe I was thinking that because I run my CP ATO pump at 500 ml/min, but even that is only 176 rpm. If my math is right, 35 rpm with 17 tubing can deliver 100 ml/min.

Looks like we are on the same page. :thumbsup: That math is correct. 17.7 is about 50 ml/min with LS17 tubing so 35 RPM is about 100 ml/min.

 

[tkeracer619]

You can buy these pumps new.

If you have an old worn out CP they will give you a pretty hefty discount on a new one. Usually 25% or more off on a replacement. They are getting scarce on ebay, you really have to be on the gun to get a good one so it's very hard to recommend specific ones right now.

One thing to look out for are the newer brushless models. They are starting to show up at reasonable costs.

 

[hkgar]

Is a digital drive pump the same as a brushless?

 

[tkeracer619]

Not in the early models. All of the later models were but some of the earlier digital drives were brushed.

 

[d2mini]

My AWC and ATO setup.

 

[janey]

Hi Everyone.. I want to Give a Big SHOUT out too tkeracer619 and alanle whom built my Stainless steel CO2 regulator with exception on the Hoke Brass.

Ok Here we go . I got the MASTERFLEX L/S COLE-PARMER DIGITAL STANDARD DRIVE 7523-70 PUMP CONTROLLER and then had too purchase a New Cole-Parmer Masterflex Easy-Load II Pump Head Model 77200-62 Cause it didn't come with it..

Ok gotthe tubing in place , Now which end of the tubing goes where ???

I Have a MRC Dual Calcium Reactor w/ Blueline 10

 

[Piper27]

Picked this up recently. Will it be OK to use? The head is a little loud though.

Is there any way to clean or service it myself without messing up the unit?

Do I have the tubing clamped down right? The head is spinning funny now that I cut a new piece of tubing. Its rolling quick then slow, like half the turn is quick, half is slow.

 

[d2mini]

Ok gotthe tubing in place , Now which end of the tubing goes where ???

The Masterflex is just replacing your feed pump from your CaRx.
So if you look at the front of the Masterflex you will see the DIR button. That changes the direction of flow by changing which way the rollers turn in the pump head. Go ahead and connect a couple small pieces of tubing and stick one of them in a cup of water and put the end of the other one in an empty cup and turn on the pump. You'll see if it starts pulling from the cup of water and spilling it into the empty cup. If not, hit the DIR button to change direction. Use the arrow buttons to change the flow rate. Play with that and you'll have a good idea of how it works. Then to hook it up to your CaRx it just depends if you are going to use the Masterflex to push water into the reactor or pull effluent out of the reactor.

 

[zachts]

Picked this up recently. Will it be OK to use? The head is a little loud though.

Is there any way to clean or service it myself without messing up the unit?

Do I have the tubing clamped down right? The head is spinning funny now that I cut a new piece of tubing. Its rolling quick then slow, like half the turn is quick, half is slow.

Need more info on what is "noisy" is the noise coming from the head or does the noise remain if the head is removed and the drive is turned on? There may be something that can be done to lessen noise but we will need more info, and from the age I'm guessing it's a brushed motor and it will not operate silently, it will have a decently loud "hum" even at low RPM that I'd compare to an average PC fan, different sound but similar sound level.

Also looks like one of the quick load heads but my guess from your pic is you cut the tubing too short and the tension is too high, it looks kind of streached over the rollers from the pic. There is normally a little "pop" where the rollers jump ahead slightly as it clears the tubing at the top of the head but they should roll about the same speed thru a full revolution. Refer back to the onwer's manual for that head to make sure you properly installed the tubing.

 

[hkgar]

This is one of the most cooperative thread that I think I have ever belong to. Yes, I said belong to, it is like a little club and every member is committed to helping the next person be successful with their reactor.

Thanks and kudos to Tkeracer for getting it all started and continue to help the new person.