Official: Masterflex Calcium Reactor Setup Thread

Not sure how large your CaRx is, bit when I subbed in a Bluline 10 for the prior Bluline 20, the pump burned up in less than 18 months. Flow was also low so now I am back to the 20. I use a lot of Bluline/PW pumps and this was the first one I didn't get at least 10 years from.



I realized there was a rubber guard in the inlets. That was the problem. The pump definitely runs warm still. I don't plan to mess with it now that it's hooked up!


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Johnny

How big is your tank? How big is the reactor? How much coral? There are sooo many variables that enter into the correct PH of the reactor, dKH of the effluent to maintain a stable tank dKH. Remember it is of somewhat little importance what the PSI and bubble rate are. The important thing is to determine what tank alk you want and have the reatore tuned to maintain that. The only single number that will effect that (well two numbers) effluent dKH and flow rate.

I have my reactor set at 40 ml/min and a ph of 6.44

Measure your tank ALK daily and make small adjustments to psi and/or bubble rate to match the tanks usage of alk. If you ave to get ph down below 6.4 you should than increase flow rate and at about 6.3 PH your media will start to turn to mush.

Here are some calculators to play around with to get to what you need, want.

http://reef.diesyst.com/reactor/reactor.html



10g
>7.5g sump
Foster care - dottyback
Few corals that survived my doser failure

Chamber ph: 6.49
Display ph: 7.8 - 8.1
Effluent Alk: 16dKh
Display Alk: 8.2
Masterflex is set to 5ml

I am just testing and waiting to see if the alk will rise or hold.


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Is it normal for the ph inside the reactor to fluctuate? 6.45-6.51; I assume it's because the tanks ph is going up and down a bit? The picture displays a 24 hour cycle.


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Use the compare funtion in the Apexx graph and overlay the tank ph to see if there is a relationship.
 
PH inside the reactor should be stable. It is better, IME, to set your regulator so that the solenoid is open all the time and the pH set by adjusting bubble rate. pH controller would just function as a low level cutoff.
 
PH inside the reactor should be stable. It is better, IME, to set your regulator so that the solenoid is open all the time and the pH set by adjusting bubble rate. pH controller would just function as a low level cutoff.



I've tried and tried to do this but not successful yet. I tweak bubble size, bubble rate, but always end up with a wandering pH and having the solenoid control it. It is my holy grail to have it work like you describe above!


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Ignore the PH, unless it drops below 6.3. Tweek PSI and/or bubble rate to maintain the dKH in your tank, not to hit a specific regulator ph. If dKH in tank is increasing than either decrease PSI or bubble rate. If dKH in tank is decreasing than increase either PSI of bubble rate. Once stability is establish than dose to raise to a dKH you desire or shut and off until dKH is reduced to what you want. Some try to adjust to get to the desired dKH and than adjust to get stability.
 
I'm looking at this 7550-60

Looks to be in good condition. I'm wondering if the pump head will work and what tubing I'll need for it. Do I need the stuff from masterflex or can I get an appropriate size from the hardware store? I'm currently using the feed from a manifold and my main pump. I do have the aquarium plants regulator so this would complete my system. Thanks in advance!
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Or would I be way better off with this one for twice the price?!?
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I would throw an offer of 300 at the second unit and see what happens. I've known a few folks have that work.

Also fwiw, and I don't recommend going this long, but I just replaced my pharmed tubing after 13 months lol...
 
Make sure that second unit is the head that accepts ls17 tubing. That tubing can be had for cheap. I can't recall if it is the performance or precision head


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I would throw an offer of 300 at the second unit and see what happens. I've known a few folks have that work.

Also fwiw, and I don't recommend going this long, but I just replaced my pharmed tubing after 13 months lol...



I offered 500 and they countered 550. I could find another and try the 300 I'd be ecstatic for that price!


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I know I ended up with my backup pump this way lol. I offered a crazy low ball offer and he accepted. At that point I couldn't turn down a 7523-60 for 250 bucks lol.
 
I would throw an offer of 300 at the second unit and see what happens. I've known a few folks have that work.

Also fwiw, and I don't recommend going this long, but I just replaced my pharmed tubing after 13 months lol...



He came down to 500?!! Is that pretty good.


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Everything is going good guys. My alk has been within 10-15 ppm of each other. Starting to narrow it down to the single digits. This is my current problem.

My psi is at 2.5. Around the later afternoon I notice my ph goes up. I check, and the psi is dropping or already at 0.

What is causing my psi to drop? I have bubbles at the top of my reactor but it doesn't not bother the effluent flow. What is causing my psi to be erratic and drop randomly?


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Everything is going good guys. My alk has been within 10-15 ppm of each other. Starting to narrow it down to the single digits. This is my current problem.

My psi is at 2.5. Around the later afternoon I notice my ph goes up. I check, and the psi is dropping or already at 0.

What is causing my psi to drop? I have bubbles at the top of my reactor but it doesn't not bother the effluent flow. What is causing my psi to be erratic and drop randomly?


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A change in ambient temperature will impact the total PSI inside the tank. That can also impact the output PSI. Not sure what regulator you are using but a cheap regulator could also be part of the issue. Try raising the PSI to 3.
 
A change in ambient temperature will impact the total PSI inside the tank. That can also impact the output PSI. Not sure what regulator you are using but a cheap regulator could also be part of the issue. Try raising the PSI to 3.
 
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