OK! Enough chat...Starting a 1000g+ Reef

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So I think I forgot to mention that I learned something else over the weekend. That Tunze Nano Stream I have doesn't always restart in the right direction! When Ed was over he told me he had heard that, I put my hand in the tank, and sure enough, it was running backwards. :mad: So much for testing out top-line stuff!
 
I heard on those if they start backwards you just have to hold it so the nozzle is pointing up and it will start correctly.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9245113#post9245113 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gkarshens
I heard on those if they start backwards you just have to hold it so the nozzle is pointing up and it will start correctly.

So that would make a real "stream", wouldn't it? :lol: Better aim it at something other than your lighting.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9245050#post9245050 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jnarowe
So I think I forgot to mention that I learned something else over the weekend. That Tunze Nano Stream I have doesn't always restart in the right direction! When Ed was over he told me he had heard that, I put my hand in the tank, and sure enough, it was running backwards. :mad: So much for testing out top-line stuff!

I have the same issue with one. I bought two and have only used the one so far. I have to unplug it to calm the water surface to check frags in the prop section. It does this about 50% of the time. Usually if I unplug it and replug it once or twice it'll start correctly. I though it just was not starting?

Suprising from a Tunze product, I wonder what all those folks who flamed the MP40 for start up issues would say about the Tunze Nano Stream line? ... "sent to market too early" ... hmmmm?
 
Thank you so much for fixing my thread! Wow, I really got bent last night trying to post.

Gabriel tried to post too and then sent me a PM. He asked me to post it when the thread was back in service:

Here are some quotes from Roger in the Tunze forum. I was backwards on the pointing it up thing.

The 6025 does not need the anti rotation device. They will all spin backwards on start up, even the 6045 but they should right themselves within 20 seconds. If they are angled sharply up, on both models, this affects the ability of the pump to right itself as the propeller has to fly out of its socket and hit the stop or fall due to resistance the resistance. If the pump is sucking in air this also will cause a problem. I would suggest running the pumps without the controller for a few days to get them worn in properly and then try your controller observing all the things I stated here.

As I explained in your other post, impeller pumps can spin backwards and do, it has no effect on flow. A prop pump though can only spin one way and work, this is why they are not so common, and why they don't work well on wavemakers. It is not so much a flaw as just the nature of the beast. The 6060 and 6080 have elaborate brake mechanisms to get them spinning the right way. The 6000, 6100, 6200, 6300 and 6055 have sensors and electronics to make sure they spin the right way. The 6025 and 6045 have a simple gravity mechanism. The DIY kits have stops or use gravity as well but they tend to have the same problems.

dude: No kidding!! :lol:
 
We (IceCap, Eco-Tech, and I) may have found the problem with my Vortech pumps. It is a long story and a bit premature since I don't have any positive facts to back it up, but one of those guys sent me a message today asking how well the magnet was attracting the pump parts together.

So I went down to the tank room to check out his idea and the pump on the BB had ejected again. I replaced the wet side and started it up. I noticed that the wet side was rotating slowly and in a manner that took it out of alignment. And then it stopped rotating while still out of alignment.

Then I went to the pump that always ejects and tested a wet frame on it. It was a VERY weak magnetic bond. Virtually no resistance to removing it by hand. So I decided to experiment a little. I held the motor firmly to the glass and started it. The wet frame immediately rotated and fell off. No hesitation whatsoever.

Then I went back to the one on the BB and tested its magnetic hold. That one is weak but not nearly as weak as the other one. And then I tried one that is not falling off at all and it had a very strong bond. There is a very big difference between the really bad one and the good one, and the other one falls in between. I am guessing that the process of slowing down and speeding up via the BB is slowly encouraging the wet frame to rotate until it finally falls off. I have removed the BB for now as I really can't sit there all day and watch it.

So maybe we are getting somewhere? Does anyone know why the magnetic properties might change?

And here is where my brain actually kicked into gear:

Just below the really bad one there is an M47 1000W ballast. In fact, all 3 pumps that ejected yesterday have a 1000W M47 ballast case at almost exactly 34" distance and the one that is not ejecting is about 44" from one. These are magnetic ballasts. Perhaps we may have found the source of the rattling problems I have been having all along?

Could it be that these powerful magnetic ballasts have altered the magnetivity of the Vortech components and that in turn has been causing the vibrations and other problems I have been having? I would need some serious technical data to buy into that, but it may be the cause.
 
ANyone know of a good quality powerhead that will mount in a 50g rubbermaid bin, restart in the right direction, and not get fouled by chaeto?
 
Well, as I was cleaning up the Vortech parts on my tank room table, I noticed another interesting thing. The wet side snap in gasket plate on the two I have out of the system, are both heavily grooved from the magnet.

I had been pondering whether a magnet that distance could effect the magnetivity of another magnet and here I find obvious signs of contact with the gasket plate. Geeeeez. Anyone got some rope?
 
So today I sent off the first "weak magnet" Vortech to EcoTech and placed the Nano Stream in the display pointing at one single coral. That coral's polyp extension is not very good so I thought I would give it a little flow if I could.

I can barely feel the flow 12" away from it though so it is giving it a little, but not much. With this particular coral, I usually cannot see any skeleton because the PE is so much...

I got no answer before but it is worth repeating:

Anyone know of a good quality powerhead that will mount on the curved end of a 50g rubbermaid bin, restart in the right direction, and not get fouled by chaeto?
 
Well we had quite a day today with reef related visitors. First off, Don Nguyen and his lovely family met us at the Dojo and we came back to our house for lunch and reef BS. (and a beer) Don is a really great guy. Sherman also came over for a while and we hung out and talked reef stuff, equipment etc.

Then we split over to Sherman's house to check out his sweet tank. It's always impressive to go see his system because it is so pristine.

Later Sherman came back over to my place to test some beer and make sure it is good to sell in our store. The 2007 Big Foot is really freakin' awesome. Brian (IAP) showed up later and we fed the tank and BS'd 'till now. (And had some beer) I have no idea when Sherman left but he called me the devil and ran out of the house... It was nice to chat with Brian one-on-one about various tank topics and I think he enjoyed some of my little "innovations".

The only thing that could have made the evening better would be a good supply of strippers. I just can't get them to do their thing in the tank room. ;)

My alk is slowly creeping up so I may have to figure out how to dial that down a bit. Corals look great. All the ones we got from Eric (The Shark Reef) are in excellent shape.
 
Good times:D This is why I could never live near other people that are into reef tanks! My beer to reef ratio would be horrible:D
 
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