Our 375 Gallon project
- Thread starter sidewinder770
- Start date
sidewinder770
New member
Hey all, sorry for the delay in responding- it's just been a busy month.
Not much new on the tank as far as updates go- still have cabinetry to finish. As far as the questions-
melev- there is actually quite a bit of coraline but it's hard to see in most of the pictures. The foam on the back wall is about 60-70% covered in coraline now.
Apparition- In your daily thoughts...That could be kind of scary
. Never had my own stalker before 
.
dez_2121- Having a very supportive better half makes all the difference in the world. I wouldn't have even attempted this without her. She's the brains of the operation- I'm just a newbie! This is my first reef tank afterall.
kimoyo- Notice in the picture all the plumbing in the sump on the right side? That's all for the skimmer output to help reduce the bubbles. I have the output of the skimmer split into two 3" PVC "T's" to help disipate the bubbles before entering the sump. I have messed around with several configurations and so far this seems to work the best. The fact that it's a 7' long sump with 9 baffles helps a lot as well.
dez_2121- The tank is 96x30x30 and is 3/4" thick on all sides and actually 1" on the back. I thought about making it out of 1" on all sides but as it is I don't have hardly any deflection at all- maybe 1/8" at the center which is very acceptable.
rmanecke- Thanks! I don't know if I'd call it "NO FEAR DIY". Several things on this setup I had never seen before so it was kind of new territory and I put a lot of thought into making sure everything would work correctly and last a long time and so far it's paid off. I also just installed a second DIY 1 ton split chiller since our garage temps are easily in the 120-140 degree range this time of year. So far they are working better than I had hoped and are very reliable and efficent.
neotekz- Most of the people that see this that aren't in the hobby just like to look at the display tank (Nemo and Dori come up more times than I can count). They don't really seem very interested in the sump room at all or even ask about it. Other reefers, on the other hand, are the exact opposite- seems like they enjoy standing in the hot garage looking at the sump room more than the tank! I seem to be in the garage tinkering more than looking at the tank sometimes as well, partially because all there is to do in the display tank is feed, and scrape the glass all the fun stuff happen in the garage
I'll see if I can find some new pics to post this week!
Not much new on the tank as far as updates go- still have cabinetry to finish. As far as the questions-
melev- there is actually quite a bit of coraline but it's hard to see in most of the pictures. The foam on the back wall is about 60-70% covered in coraline now.
Apparition- In your daily thoughts...That could be kind of scary
. Never had my own stalker before . dez_2121- Having a very supportive better half makes all the difference in the world. I wouldn't have even attempted this without her. She's the brains of the operation- I'm just a newbie! This is my first reef tank afterall.
kimoyo- Notice in the picture all the plumbing in the sump on the right side? That's all for the skimmer output to help reduce the bubbles. I have the output of the skimmer split into two 3" PVC "T's" to help disipate the bubbles before entering the sump. I have messed around with several configurations and so far this seems to work the best. The fact that it's a 7' long sump with 9 baffles helps a lot as well.
dez_2121- The tank is 96x30x30 and is 3/4" thick on all sides and actually 1" on the back. I thought about making it out of 1" on all sides but as it is I don't have hardly any deflection at all- maybe 1/8" at the center which is very acceptable.
rmanecke- Thanks! I don't know if I'd call it "NO FEAR DIY". Several things on this setup I had never seen before so it was kind of new territory and I put a lot of thought into making sure everything would work correctly and last a long time and so far it's paid off. I also just installed a second DIY 1 ton split chiller since our garage temps are easily in the 120-140 degree range this time of year. So far they are working better than I had hoped and are very reliable and efficent.
neotekz- Most of the people that see this that aren't in the hobby just like to look at the display tank (Nemo and Dori come up more times than I can count). They don't really seem very interested in the sump room at all or even ask about it. Other reefers, on the other hand, are the exact opposite- seems like they enjoy standing in the hot garage looking at the sump room more than the tank!
I seem to be in the garage tinkering more than looking at the tank sometimes as well, partially because all there is to do in the display tank is feed, and scrape the glass all the fun stuff happen in the garage I'll see if I can find some new pics to post this week!
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sidewinder770
New member
I do have A/C in the garage but I never run it 
I think the better half may have something to say about me filling her parking spot with a futon.....OK, OK... so I'd have to give up my car space as well and that probably won't happen either
I think the better half may have something to say about me filling her parking spot with a futon.....OK, OK... so I'd have to give up my car space as well and that probably won't happen either
maxxII
Super Housemonkey!
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7983432#post7983432 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by sidewinder770
I do have A/C in the garage but I never run it
I think the better half may have something to say about me filling her parking spot with a futon.....OK, OK... so I'd have to give up my car space as well and that probably won't happen either
You can DIY all this stuff, to include a gas strut powered canopy, but you cant figure out a way to make the futon raise and lower from the ceiling????
Have you tried drinking???
Nick
reefworldaq
New member
Hai Side, your tank is amazing. what kind of glue that you use to acro frag. i'm use Deltec 2 part epoxy, but in the base was bleaching. how to do it that. thank's
WDLV
Skunk Hybrid Freak
Here's a tip I learned from a friend. Use the epoxy, but when you do, roll it into a ball and put super glue on the side that is going to be stuck to the rock. Once the epoxy is mounted, put superglue over the bottom of the frag and push it into the epoxy. The frag only touches the super glue and is less likely to have tissue loss around the base than if it were directly touching the epoxy. An added benefit is that the epoxy sticks better while it is curing.
sidewinder770
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7986836#post7986836 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by maxxII
You can DIY all this stuff, to include a gas strut powered canopy, but you cant figure out a way to make the futon raise and lower from the ceiling????
Have you tried drinking???
Nick
Good point! I'm sure I can come up with something
. Actually my canopy doesn't use gas struts either....that would have been too easy reefworldaq- I've used superglue, the deltec epoxy and aquamend from HD. I've had good results with all 3 and it just depends on what and where you are mounting things. Currently I use the deltec epoxy mostly in the display tank and superglue for frags in the frag tank and have not really run into any issues either way.
juststartingout
New member
Hey Scott ,
Nice job, I was subscribed for awhile and had to go back and re-read for the highlights. I see that you are running with 250 wt MH's, do you have any clams, I see the RBTA. I am considering tuning down my lighting from 400wts to 250's and I see that our tanks have simular depths. Do you feel that the 250's are plenty light, I have clams and am concerned.
Nice job, I was subscribed for awhile and had to go back and re-read for the highlights. I see that you are running with 250 wt MH's, do you have any clams, I see the RBTA. I am considering tuning down my lighting from 400wts to 250's and I see that our tanks have simular depths. Do you feel that the 250's are plenty light, I have clams and am concerned.
sidewinder770
New member
Yup- I have 1 clam. I had 2 others but I had to get rid of them as something was nibbling on them. I keep it on the bottom and the 250w DE's seem to be just fine for them. I also have about 2 inches of sand so that shortens the depth a little. I also have zoos and echnos on the sand and they seem to be fine as well. If I did it over again I would use the same setup I curretly have. I do plan to add some T5's in the near future just to fill in a few spots but I'm quite pleased with the 250's. I'm sure you may get some "better" and "deaper" lighting with the 400's but it wasn't worth the extra cost associated with it for me.
Doc's69
New member
Scott, what a beautiful tank and stand, the sump though is something else, I mean the whole system is set up to keep good body mechanics, clean, slick as a pin bro. If this your 1st job, maybe you should look into this a a business as you sure do have a eye for detail. Steve
setting up my 1st "big" tank, 220 G RR. You give me inspiration as well as a few ideas
setting up my 1st "big" tank, 220 G RR. You give me inspiration as well as a few ideas
juststartingout
New member
deleted post
juststartingout
New member
Scott, do have any close up pix of your diy chiller, I had seen the photo of it in the cage. I thought that you used a 5200btu house ac unit, is that correct? Instead of the evaporator you run it in a chiller tube?
sidewinder770
New member
Doc's69- Thanks for the compliments. I'd love to do this for a living but I don't think anyone would want to pay me for it . Yes- it's my first reef tank but I tend to be fanatical about doing things right the first time.
juststartingout- I don't have a very good picture of the outside unit but I can try to get one for you this weekend if you like. I have since added a second DIY chiller as a backup unit. They are 3/4 & 1 ton mini-split systems (9000btu & 12000btu) and I just swapped out the inside unit for a chiller tube from SW Wilson . They are very efficient and I have talked several people through how to set one up and so far they are just as happy as I am. Here is a pic of the A/C cage from way back when and I'll try to get a better pic.
. Yes- it's my first reef tank but I tend to be fanatical about doing things right the first time.juststartingout- I don't have a very good picture of the outside unit but I can try to get one for you this weekend if you like. I have since added a second DIY chiller as a backup unit. They are 3/4 & 1 ton mini-split systems (9000btu & 12000btu) and I just swapped out the inside unit for a chiller tube from SW Wilson . They are very efficient and I have talked several people through how to set one up and so far they are just as happy as I am. Here is a pic of the A/C cage from way back when and I'll try to get a better pic.
sidewinder770
New member
Here a an older picture of the first inside unit before I added the second chiller-
sidewinder770
New member
It really is pretty simple- assuming you have the right parts and hook it up correctly . The outdoor unit comes pre-charged with freon so no worries there.
Here is my DIY chiller parts list as I would recommend- it took me forever to come up with the right parts to DIY this so you are lucky that the hard work (finding the correct parts) has already been done by me.....I almost can't believe I am giving away my secrets for this!
1. Mini-split unit genieac.com I would use the KFR-09G/W
2. chiller barrel sw wilson I would recommend the 3/4 or 1 ton barrel and be sure they send the copper washers with it.
3. TXV (thermal expansion valve) rparts part # TX2
4. TXV orifice rparts part # 095-0003
5. reducing flare fitting rparts part # 027-0006
6. line set geniac.com part # LS143814-15
7. temp guage of some sort- I use these- radioshack
8. wire to use as a plug in cord- I would use some 10/2 w/ground (heavy duty outdoor rated) and a plug to put on the end that will plug into your conroller.
Most of the install can be done by you (having said that I must say if you don't know what you are doing hire a Professional- gotta have that lawyer junk in there). The only thing that will need to be done by a HVAC guy is to have the 1/4" fitting going into the TXV cut off and install the new 3/8"x1/4" reducing fitting (takes about 5 minutes if you're slow). Then hook it up to the TXV (don't forget the orifice)- all other fittings are sized correctly so they will just screw on and can be done prior to the HVAC coming out. Then the HVAC guy will vacuum test the system. Once that is done and holds a vacuum he will release the freon charge and you are done. The outdoor unit comes with the perfect amount of freon so there is no need to add more (assuming the use of the 9000BTU mini-split and the 1 ton barrel as this is what I have found to be perfectly sized).
Keep in mind that this also needs a temp controller to turn on and off and for that I use my Aquacontroller but you can also use a Ranco temp controller. You will also need to jumper some of the terminals for the power (located on the outdoor unit) since you eliminated the indoor unit but this is very easy and takes less than 5 minutes.
Total cost for me including parts, shipping and install was about $1040. I did get some price breaks on some of that stuff but that will be my secret
. The outdoor unit comes pre-charged with freon so no worries there. Here is my DIY chiller parts list as I would recommend- it took me forever to come up with the right parts to DIY this so you are lucky that the hard work (finding the correct parts) has already been done by me
.....I almost can't believe I am giving away my secrets for this!1. Mini-split unit genieac.com I would use the KFR-09G/W
2. chiller barrel sw wilson I would recommend the 3/4 or 1 ton barrel and be sure they send the copper washers with it.
3. TXV (thermal expansion valve) rparts part # TX2
4. TXV orifice rparts part # 095-0003
5. reducing flare fitting rparts part # 027-0006
6. line set geniac.com part # LS143814-15
7. temp guage of some sort- I use these- radioshack
8. wire to use as a plug in cord- I would use some 10/2 w/ground (heavy duty outdoor rated) and a plug to put on the end that will plug into your conroller.
Most of the install can be done by you (having said that I must say if you don't know what you are doing hire a Professional- gotta have that lawyer junk in there
). The only thing that will need to be done by a HVAC guy is to have the 1/4" fitting going into the TXV cut off and install the new 3/8"x1/4" reducing fitting (takes about 5 minutes if you're slow). Then hook it up to the TXV (don't forget the orifice)- all other fittings are sized correctly so they will just screw on and can be done prior to the HVAC coming out. Then the HVAC guy will vacuum test the system. Once that is done and holds a vacuum he will release the freon charge and you are done. The outdoor unit comes with the perfect amount of freon so there is no need to add more (assuming the use of the 9000BTU mini-split and the 1 ton barrel as this is what I have found to be perfectly sized).Keep in mind that this also needs a temp controller to turn on and off and for that I use my Aquacontroller but you can also use a Ranco temp controller. You will also need to jumper some of the terminals for the power (located on the outdoor unit) since you eliminated the indoor unit but this is very easy and takes less than 5 minutes.
Total cost for me including parts, shipping and install was about $1040. I did get some price breaks on some of that stuff but that will be my secret
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