Ozone --> 500 mg for a 150 gal too much?

Leopardshark

New member
Hello all,
I´m looking forward to adding ozone to my tank and I´ve seen the corona units (specially the Ozotech Poseidon 220) are out of stock, but locally I found a 500 mg from a water purifier source.
The problem is you cannot dial the % of ozone output, if it is on, it is 100%.
Even do I´m going to control the unit with an APEX 2016, should I wait for the 220 mgr unit or can I use this one safely?
BTW the 500 mgr unit costs 75% less than the Ozotech unit :worried2:
Kind regards
 
I think so.. I ran a ozotech 250 mg/hr on my 700 gallon system (was 600 gallons at the time) and it was fine. I bought one of the 500 mg/hr ones like you are looking at and it was too large and I could constantly smell the o3. Sometimes, less is more. Spend the money and get the Ozotech. It's controllable so you can dial it back as needed. I'd also suggest using an ozone reactor as opposed to a skimmer as you get better contact time and more control with less hassle of dealing with excess o3. That said, I stopped using ozone as my UV sterilzer gives me the same end results.
 
Thank you very much for your comments. Indeed I used ozone 11 years ago and it provided great results, in ORP and also in water clarity.
I think you are correct, I will get the ozotech unit.
thanks
 
If water clarity is your main objective, I've found it hard to beat ozone.
It clears the water SO quick! It's crazy.
And it's a pretty small package overall. Even if you add an air dryer.

That said I'm now using a UV. It's larger, needs to be plumbed into the system, and doesn't seem to have the water polishing power that the ozone does, but it keeps the water fairly clear and helps reduce pathogens. I figure it was a good compromise.
Some people run both.
 
If water clarity is your main objective, I've found it hard to beat ozone.
It clears the water SO quick! It's crazy.
And it's a pretty small package overall. Even if you add an air dryer.

That said I'm now using a UV. It's larger, needs to be plumbed into the system, and doesn't seem to have the water polishing power that the ozone does, but it keeps the water fairly clear and helps reduce pathogens. I figure it was a good compromise.
Some people run both.

My question is why would you switch from O3 to a not-so-efficent equipment?
Is there anything I don´t see? (apart of the possibility of wiping out your tank if you overdose)
 
My question is why would you switch from O3 to a not-so-efficent equipment?
Is there anything I don´t see? (apart of the possibility of wiping out your tank if you overdose)

UV is very efficient in terms of what it can do for your tank. Sure it might require a bit more power and annual bulb replacement but the results of a properly setup quality UV sterilizer speak for themselves. Aside from water clarity improvements, elimination of bacterial blooms, reduction of parasites, reduction of waterborn algae, the improvements to water quality might surprise some.. In fact, it's every bit as effective as o3 and in a shorter amount of time too. Remember, both UV sterilization and ozone oxidize organics and sterilzer the water they come in contact with. Ozone requires much less flow than a quality UV and takes longer to have a similar impact.

Many run ozone through a skimmer which is a VERY inefficient way of using ozone. You don't get ideal contact time and you end up with excess ozone in the water and the air. It's hard to funnel all that skimmer water through carbon without impacting the skimmers performance and without some residual ozone escaping through the air. Then you have the skimmers lid which also is a point that needs attention (carbon filtering) to prevent ozone from escaping into the air. There are lots of things around our aquariums that are not ozone safe and the long term effects of residual ozone can be damaging to our devices, plumbing etc. An ozone reactor with a second reactor filled with carbon eliminates those issues and allows for much more efficient and effective use of the ozone. You can control the flow through the reactor and maximize contact time. Measuring the ORP coming out of the reactor and comparing it to the tank ORP really lets you fine tune it. With a skimmer, you only control is the ozone rate.

Then you have the maintenance of the air driers or the expense of the electronic driers. If you want to do ozone right and use an ozone reactor, that adds expense as does the generator, drier, carbon etc. By the time you are done, a quality UV such as those from AquaUV are around the same cost and as I said above, they can be every bit as effective when properly sized and setup.

Earlier this year, I noticed my ORP had dropped substantially in a really short amount of time. After investigateion, I realized my UV bulbs in the AquaUV 114 watt sterilzer had died. Normally I replace them every year but I had gone just over 1.5 years without replacing them. I ordered up new bulbs and in a weeks time, ORP went from 275 back up to 400. I ran ozone for years and never saw those kinds of improvements in such a short amount of time.

This is my ORP graph showing the ORP increase over the course of 6 days immediately after changing the bulbs. You won't get these kinds of results with ozone alone.
IMG_4952_zpsulrymhuv.png
 
My question is why would you switch from O3 to a not-so-efficent equipment?
Is there anything I don´t see? (apart of the possibility of wiping out your tank if you overdose)

Like I touched on above and Slief expanded on a bit, I wanted some of the additional benefits of the UV above and beyond water clarity. I felt like the UV did a better job on those other items. From what I read you'd have to crank the ozone to dangerous levels in order to have an effect on disease/parasites and I didn't feel it did anything for algae.

I ran my ozone through my lifereef skimmer which does a pretty good job of recirculating the unused ozone and no need for carbon on the output. When I first hooked it up my water was crystal clear within the hour.
 
UV is very efficient in terms of what it can do for your tank. Sure it might require a bit more power and annual bulb replacement but the results of a properly setup quality UV sterilizer speak for themselves. Aside from water clarity improvements, elimination of bacterial blooms, reduction of parasites, reduction of waterborn algae, the improvements to water quality might surprise some.. In fact, it's every bit as effective as o3 and in a shorter amount of time too. Remember, both UV sterilization and ozone oxidize organics and sterilzer the water they come in contact with. Ozone requires much less flow than a quality UV and takes longer to have a similar impact.

Many run ozone through a skimmer which is a VERY inefficient way of using ozone. You don't get ideal contact time and you end up with excess ozone in the water and the air. It's hard to funnel all that skimmer water through carbon without impacting the skimmers performance and without some residual ozone escaping through the air. Then you have the skimmers lid which also is a point that needs attention (carbon filtering) to prevent ozone from escaping into the air. There are lots of things around our aquariums that are not ozone safe and the long term effects of residual ozone can be damaging to our devices, plumbing etc. An ozone reactor with a second reactor filled with carbon eliminates those issues and allows for much more efficient and effective use of the ozone. You can control the flow through the reactor and maximize contact time. Measuring the ORP coming out of the reactor and comparing it to the tank ORP really lets you fine tune it. With a skimmer, you only control is the ozone rate.

Then you have the maintenance of the air driers or the expense of the electronic driers. If you want to do ozone right and use an ozone reactor, that adds expense as does the generator, drier, carbon etc. By the time you are done, a quality UV such as those from AquaUV are around the same cost and as I said above, they can be every bit as effective when properly sized and setup.

Earlier this year, I noticed my ORP had dropped substantially in a really short amount of time. After investigateion, I realized my UV bulbs in the AquaUV 114 watt sterilzer had died. Normally I replace them every year but I had gone just over 1.5 years without replacing them. I ordered up new bulbs and in a weeks time, ORP went from 275 back up to 400. I ran ozone for years and never saw those kinds of improvements in such a short amount of time.

This is my ORP graph showing the ORP increase over the course of 6 days immediately after changing the bulbs. You won't get these kinds of results with ozone alone.
IMG_4952_zpsulrymhuv.png

Thank you for your comments, I didn't know UV could be that much effective, specially in rising the orp. I have always relied in ozone for water clarity and maintaining a high ORP.
Given that you ventilare adequately the room I thought using ozone is easier and simpler than UV.
For a 150 system which size would you recommend?
Thanks
 
Like I touched on above and Slief expanded on a bit, I wanted some of the additional benefits of the UV above and beyond water clarity. I felt like the UV did a better job on those other items. From what I read you'd have to crank the ozone to dangerous levels in order to have an effect on disease/parasites and I didn't feel it did anything for algae.

I ran my ozone through my lifereef skimmer which does a pretty good job of recirculating the unused ozone and no need for carbon on the output. When I first hooked it up my water was crystal clear within the hour.

Tha is exactly my experience as well! But now I'm thinking about the uv lamp as well.
 
Thank you for your comments, I didn't know UV could be that much effective, specially in rising the orp. I have always relied in ozone for water clarity and maintaining a high ORP.
Given that you ventilare adequately the room I thought using ozone is easier and simpler than UV.
For a 150 system which size would you recommend?
Thanks

You could go with the 25w or the 40 watt. Personally, I'd go with the 40 watt as it will be a bit more effective but if your total water volume is 150 gallons or less, the 25 watt should work OK. I run a 114 watt unit on a 700 gallon total volume system.

This would be my first choice for you.
http://www.aquaultraviolet.com/products/uvsterilizers/classic/40watt
 
ORP is funny. My tank runs around 300, sometimes lower, sometimes higher - and there seems to be little correlation to tank health ..... and absolutely no causation. I have come to the conclusion that ORP is actually pointless to measure.

Not sure how I see how the use of UV would affect oxidation-reduction potential of the water though? I have never found the O3 produced by a Uv to be material.
 
I think so......That said, I stopped using ozone as my UV sterilzer gives me the same end results.

:lol: So you're not actually using it. I have no particular bias against O3, just found the units unreliable, the air dryers a major PitA, and the benefits elusive at best.
 
:lol: So you're not actually using it. I have no particular bias against O3, just found the units unreliable, the air dryers a major PitA, and the benefits elusive at best.

Aren´t the benefits the same as ozone? without the inconvenience of replacing the bulb every year or so. And wow the uv units are expensive!
 
Aren´t the benefits the same as ozone? without the inconvenience of replacing the bulb every year or so. And wow the uv units are expensive!

Certainly many here would judge UV to be unnecessary as well :lol: Swapping a bulb out every year or so isn't that big of a deal, but I found the maintenance required on the air dryers to be tiresome. YMMV.
 
Hey Everyone,

Can you oversize a UV unit with the expectations of upgrading tank size in a few years? Or is that not the way to go?
 
Hey Everyone,

Can you oversize a UV unit with the expectations of upgrading tank size in a few years? Or is that not the way to go?

I don't see why not, you just need to have the correct amount of flow going through it. Increase the flow if you want to decrease it's kill power.
 
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