Ozone use

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I never used ROX in this application. I used Black Diamond, and I think it lasts a very long time in that use, but I do not have exact numbers, and obviously it depends on how much you use at a time. I used a large amount in both the air and water effluents and let it go a very long time.

 

[billsreef]

I am not sure I follow you. Are you only referring to the carbon over a burp tube? The avast does not use a burp tube to regulate reactor pressure. The design of this avast reactor is discussed in the above posts.

At .4mg/hr/gal I am dosing a high rate? Isn't it a median dosing amount for home aquaria?

I'm not used to playing around with fancy units with burp tubes, so it's not a consideration...actually even if it did have burp tube it wouldn't be a consideration.

What I'm trying to get at, if there is unused ozone being released, that is simply excess ozone. Ozone that is simply not needed, and therefore ozone produced over and beyond the actual needs and not reacting with anything in the reactor since it is being released. Therefore, you can reduce the amount of ozone being used without impacting the efficiency of the reactor

 

[jrpark22000]

I never used ROX in this application. I used Black Diamond, and I think it lasts a very long time in that use, but I do not have exact numbers, and obviously it depends on how much you use at a time. I used a large amount in both the air and water effluents and let it go a very long time.

Thank you for the info Randy. Time and experimentation will tell if I can get my setup to perform like yours did. I stay with ROX for this phase of testing but I'll try another carbon type if I cannot get the ROX breakup under control.

What I'm trying to get at, if there is unused ozone being released, that is simply excess ozone. Ozone that is simply not needed, and therefore ozone produced over and beyond the actual needs and not reacting with anything in the reactor since it is being released. Therefore, you can reduce the amount of ozone being used without impacting the efficiency of the reactor

Point taken. I have been slowly doing just that. I started at the median .4mg/hr. I am making small changes to one factor then waiting a week while monitoring results. I actually double checked my ozone generator last night, I am actually only dosing .32mg/hr/gal. I am thinking the low reactor chamber pressure may be the contributing factor in the low utilization of the ozone but I'll wait for the long term testing to be complete before making any conclusions.

I'll post back with an update once I get the dosing level down and hopefully I'll have more positive results. I am also going to switch out my 200mg/hr generator for a 50mg/hr unit. It'll make it easier to read what I'm dosing.

 

[cherubfish pair]

Okay going back six years but I can't find it using search, does anyone have the link to this thread of Anthony's?

Thanks Anthony.. btw I got the idea about providing a separate container for raw overflow water for my EV-120 pump from your thread "Protein Skimmer Production/Improvements". It has greatly improved the skimate production on my EV-120!! :thumbsup:

Thanks for providing such a great knowledge base for hobbyist!

-Jerry

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

http://archive.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=554786

and then

http://archive.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=723744

 

[EnderG60]

Ok I finally have an understanding of how a ozone reactor works and now I have a few questions.

First off I want to make sure the following materials are ozone safe. Arcylic, PVC, nylon, silicon tubing. BUT what can I use as a gasket? I usually use red rubber mats to cut out gaskets for my reactors, but Ive read that will break down.

Second, we have recommended dosing rates for ozone of around 0.5mg/hr per gallon. But what about reactor size to effectively utilize that ozone rate?

On the same note, one thing that I still dont get is how the air pressure can maintain at 5psi. If the air is effectively pushing the water level in the reactor down, and 5 psi is the same as 138.4 inches of water, wouldnt you need a 12 foot tall reactor to reach 5 psi?

any reason not to use a spa ozone generator like this one?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/300-mg-hr-Spa-Ozone-Generator-Hot-Tub-Water-Ozonator-/320816137893?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ab221c6a5

 

[billsreef]

I'd look for some PVC sheet (such as used for pond liners) or silicone rubber for gasket material. EDPM and Viton 0-rings are good as well. Acryilic, PVC and silicone tubing are suitable for use with ozone. Though teflon tubing is considered as better than silicone. As for production capacity of the unit itself, I like to go with a variable setting unit that is capable of providing more capacity than I think I will need...can always turn it down As for spa units, ozone is ozone Comes down to price and capacity. At the aquaculture level, it's not unusual to see the very same unit being sold for both aquaculture/zoo/public aquarium market and for use in large swimming pools

 

[EnderG60]

I found some "Weather- and Chemical-Resistant Santoprene Rubber" sheets on mcmaster carr. would that work?

I have found nothing on sizing the reactor. My system is 480g, and Im hoping a reactor volume of 3 gallons will work, but I would rather know now if i should make it bigger.

 

[EnderG60]

another question. I was looking up the coralife luft air pump.

Does this unit have an air in and an air out? or do you just use it for force air through the ozone generator and into the reactor?

 

[apt220]

It doesn't have a separate intake port. It sucks air through a broad opening on the underside of the pump.

 

[Want2BS8ed]

jrpark2200, that was my video you referenced back in October. 4 months into using the Avast Ozone reactor has not been without its trials, but I remain pleased with my decision.

I've struggled with excess Ozone as well (and still do to some extent), but discovered a large part of my problem was caused by a loose connection in the top of the carbon chamber where Ozone was bypassing the carbon and entering the effluent pipe directly. At Avast's suggestion, I glued the coupler on top of the effluent pipe and then inserted the media plate on top.

That reduced a lot of the problem, but I'm still getting an occasional whiff of Ozone from the effluent.

I should post another video with the unit in place. There is no hammering, boom, or big burp in the effluent from either the Ozone reactor or the carbon reactor, just a constant stream of water and air. I solved any problems with splashing or salt creep by elbowing the effluent into an upright 18" piece of 1" PVC. Worked like a charm.

While I'm sure running the reactor at something higher than 3-4 PSI would be more efficient, it's also one less thing I need to chase in the tank. The system is self regulating and has been far easier to maintain than my two previous applications of Ozone (a 4' MTC air driven counter-current skimmer - with lime wood air stones if I'm not giving my age away LOL and a PM Venturi driven skimmer). With the skimmers, I always found myself chasing the perfect water level and constantly vacillating between overflows or gross inefficiency. Here, it is an independent system. Once the Luft pump was dialed in, all I've done in 4 months was change the carbon (once) and clear the Venturi (once) when I noticed the incoming airflow had dropped slightly. No constant fiddling with valves, levels or pressures.

Sometimes in our desire for uber-efficiency we forget the goal. While my expectations were realistic (I'm looking to break down organics and yellowing agents to increase the efficiency of GAC and skimming, not drive a 100mV increases in ORP or kill pathogens), I must admit those expectations have been more than met by the Avast unit. I AM pushing a 100mV improvement in ORP, the water is crystal clear and I'm comfortable traveling for a week or two at a time knowing the tank can be left and my wife needs to do no more than feed the fish every couple of days. There is something to be said for simplicity... well, in the right places - I know I couldn't pull this tank off without having everything plugged into an APEX that can be dialed into from the other side of the world!

I'm also a fan of the quasi- DIY nature of Avast's kits. Everything you see in that video, I assembled myself. I have a full shop in my basement and I could do it, but I lack time. It's been a nice balance for me.

In the end, I'm comfortable the Mutiny fits my situation. I certainly have nothing but good things to say about their customer service - I've certainly made some bone-headed mistakes they were patient enough to walk me through solving!

Mike

 

[okbishop]

Can you post a pic and a link to Avast info?

 

[Want2BS8ed]

Can you post a pic and a link to Avast info?

Here is my video...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9rHXWBpqdTE&feature=youtube_gdata_player

...and a link to Avast's web page...

http://www.avastmarine.com/ssc/do/product/youbuilt/AVAST-Mutiny-Ozone-Reactor-Kit

Mike

 

[jrpark22000]

Mike,

Thanks for the information. Good to hear about another deployment of the Avast solution and you found the problem to your ozone smell.

Agreed; In the end, I'm comfortable the Mutiny fits my situation. Between the The system is self regulating and has been far easier to maintain and the effluent output being pressurized removing the gravity factor I also like the avast. I am happy with my decision to date, but will continue to tweak the setup.


I AM pushing a 100mV improvement in ORP.
I have only been able to get 60-70mv increase in ORP. My water is clear so I am not looking to increase further.

 

[mr.wilson]

another question. I was looking up the coralife luft air pump.

Does this unit have an air in and an air out? or do you just use it for force air through the ozone generator and into the reactor?

You would never draw ozonized air through an electrical device such as an air pump. The air pump is always used to push air though an air drier and the ozonizer. The rubber diaphragm of the air pump should be protected from premature degradation from o3 with a one way check valve between the ozonizer and the pump. You should also have a check valve between the o3 reactor/protein skimmer and the ozonizer to guard against back flow/syphoning of water.

 

[cherubfish pair]

Has anyone thought of measuring water clarity with a par or lux meter? Put the sensor at the bottom of the tank before ozonation and take a reading. Then run ozone for awhile and take a reading at the bottom of the tank again for comparison?

 

[cherubfish pair]

Want2BS8ed,

So the second chamber prevents burping? Does it do anything else?

Are you running GAC downstream from the ozone? How?

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Has anyone thought of measuring water clarity with a par or lux meter? Put the sensor at the bottom of the tank before ozonation and take a reading. Then run ozone for awhile and take a reading at the bottom of the tank again for comparison?

Hard to say if that is the best way since it is the very blue and UV light that is most absorbed, not across the whole spectrum. It may be fine to test, but little change does not necessarily imply little change in UV, for example.

I didn't have such a device, so I just took photos and sighted the length of the tank to fine black lines on a white piece of plastic.

Even without such devices, however, my wife who usually takes little notice of such things commented the tanks looked less yellow without knowing I was doing anything when I started up ozone.

Here's what it looked like:

Figure 1. Two digital photographs of a plastic bar taken through four feet of aquarium water. The bar on the left was taken before using ozone, and the bar on the right was taken after two weeks on ozone. The numbers were written onto the bar with marking pens. All camera settings were identical.

This link also shows my whole tank photos before and after ozone:
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-05/rhf/index.php#4

 

[cherubfish pair]

Hard to say if that is the best way since it is the very blue and UV light that is most absorbed, not across the whole spectrum. It may be fine to test, but little change does not necessarily imply little change in UV, for example.

I didn't have such a device, so I just took photos and sighted the length of the tank to fine black lines on a white piece of plastic.

Even without such devices, however, my wife who usually takes little notice of such things commented the tanks looked less yellow without knowing I was doing anything when I started up ozone.

Here's what it looked like:

Figure 1. Two digital photographs of a plastic bar taken through four feet of aquarium water. The bar on the left was taken before using ozone, and the bar on the right was taken after two weeks on ozone. The numbers were written onto the bar with marking pens. All camera settings were identical.

This link also shows my whole tank photos before and after ozone:
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-05/rhf/index.php#4

Thanks Randy, very interesting. I see a lot of difference in the two photos above. I'm sold on the water clarifying capacity of ozone. I've seen big changes in my tanks from the use.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

:thumbsup:

I only stopped it out of concern over HLLE.

Happy Reefing!