Well, I disagree with that, at least as a reef aquarist uses ozone, and many years of folks using ozone safely and effectively by using ORP control only would seem to suggest that your statement is misleading. You probably cannot find more than a handful of RC members who have ever measured bromate as you suggest for a home aquarium. Are you claiming that every one of the remaining 99% of RC ozone users is unable to use it safely and effectively?
If you have adequate GAC in the ozone effluent, you shouldn't be detecting much if any bromate anyway.
I simply stated that colorimetric DPD measurement is the only accurate way of monitoring zone use and its byproducts, namely bromate. I didn't mean to infer that it is cost effective, convenient, or even necessary for a home aquarium. We all agree ORP measurement is inaccurate, I suggested a method that I believe to be accurate.
Your article seemed to dissuade aquarists from the use of ozone, claiming contact time and ozone levels were inadequate in hobby conditions. Maybe I took it wrong as you appear to be a proponent now.
Saying that people have been doing it for years doesn't necessarily make it safe, or effective for that matter. I use ozone, and I use ORP to regulate it, like most hobbyists. I calibrate the ORP probe every few months, but rarely believe the numbers I see (too low or too high). Historically, ORP measurement has been unreliable for me and I've used numerous meters (Preis, Sander, GHL, Hanna, American Scientific Pinpoint, Neptune, Red Sea, Milwaukee). In some cases it may be electrical interference while in others water quality may just be a lot worse than I perceive it to be.
I am in the 99% and admit I cannot guarantee that I am using it safely or effectively. I use carbon on the effluent but there is some bypass and I have no effective way of monitoring the carbon's capacity or when it is exhausted. I can smell residual ozone with smaller protein skimmers (using Askoll 1500 pump), but not with large ones (RK2 RK 25PE).
In addition to ORP, I sometimes use a timer so ozone is only on at night when people aren't around. I have also used ozonizers that have built-in timers that limit the number of minutes per hour the unit will run. This is particularly useful with 5 or 10 gram commercial ozonizers in public facilities.
Some public aquariums use salt with less bromide due to extensive use of ozone. Measuring bromate is a useful tool if you are running the higher concentrations you recommend in your article. Certainly a tool that measures total and free chlorine is useful in achieving the percentages one is targeting.
