Phosban reactor words of wisdom?

Iron addition. Too much fertilizer too fast.

Dropping P levels too fast would make a water change, tide change, and shipping impossible.
 
Bomber said:
Iron addition. Too much fertilizer too fast.

Dropping P levels too fast would make a water change, tide change, and shipping impossible.
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That makes such sense. I never bought the "take po4 down too fast is bad" theory. Frags go from one tank to another, or from the ocean to tanks too easily. Hopefully iron is the answer. Did this come as a bi-product of the Zeo research/thoughts by yourself and Habib?
 
Also I heard that when people deplete their ROWA, then add a bunch more fresh ROWA, they have problems. But that never made sense either since the po4 was already really low. Is it that when you add iron new po4 remover, a certain amount of iron leaches off, maybe with the dust? Then the leaching stops or decreases dramatically?

The users that reported ROWA or Phosban escaping into their tanks seemed to have the worst problems.

I'm surprised ROWA never thought of this.
 
AcroSteve said:
Crystal, Which reactor are you using?
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It is actually called "Phosban Reactor 150" to be exact. It is made by Two Little Fishies who also makes Phosban. I love them. They are inexpensive (were), come with a ball valve - I use them for carbon.

The sponges are cheap though. The sponge TLF uses compared to the sponge Deltec uses on the FR509 are completely different. I would HIGHLY recommend a small micron filter sock when using the TLF model with Phosban. The sponge will not stop the media from getting through.
 
I tried running Phosban and carbon together in the Phosban Reactor 150...bad idea. It clumped up and formed blocks that wouldn't flow any more. Previously I'd used them in alternating cycles. I just picked up another reactor ($35-ish, cheap) so I can run one in each.

Has anyone tried a nitrate remover in a reactor? I don't use carbon constantly, I thought about swapping it for nitrate remover when not using the carbon.
 
I just bought two "Phosban Reactor 150". They are connecting together with a maxijet 900, one is using for ROWA and another is using for carbon...I like them.
 
That's too much flow, unless you have losses in tubing and such. You want 80GPH through each reactor with the minimum media level, and 90 at maximum level.
 
I didn't know about that. I went to the PROP frag auction two weekends ago, that was great. Relatively cheap way to build diversity, and great to meet and talk to other people. I'll check out FRAG.
 
I'm sure you could connect the two and get the flow right, but it would make it difficult. You need to be able to adjust them from time to time, and it might make things difficult. I think I was using a 606 on both of mine.

I really do recommend a filter sock to catch Phosban debris.

Oh and if you want, I'll send you an extra 606 for that coral in your avatar. ;-) What a bargain for you!!!

-----

CA, it's pretty much the same folks, but the PROP forum is pretty slow. There is also a DMS (Desert Marine Society) forum which is slow as well, but joining DMS is good for LFS discounts and we've had good speakers.

I'm sure Crystal won't mind the hijack as she is active in all three. ;-)
 
DMS seems to be dead as far as I can see. The site hasn't been updated in a long time (there's a notice about an April meeting I think). So are they still active? Is the location/time info still correct?

Unfortunately I'll be out of town during this month's FRAG meeting. They only meet every other month it seems?

I wonder how many people would be interested in a beer 'n' wings night to talk about fish...
 
LOL Tony. I have a nano that is dedicated to LPS, zoas and rics. I love SPS in the big reef, but I love LPS also. I want to start picking up some rare acan/blasto frags. Is that acan in one piece still? That is quite possibly the coolest coral I have EVER seen.

-

CA - there are some beer drinkin folks in the crowd. There are a lot of cool people. I suppose we're all a 'little' nerdy - hell, we post on a chat board. I'm doing beer n wings at Buffalo Bills tomorrow night for the game (I think). DMS forum is dead - but the group is somewhat active. It gets confusing between DMS, FRAG, PROP and of course RC. Post over there on FRAG and they'll tell ya what's up. But there are a lot of us who trade, give away, sell stuff cheap.
 
Buffalo Bills... Do you mean Buffalo Wild Wings, or is there a wing joint that I've missed? I'm passionate about good wings.

So I should just show up at the time/place shown on the DMS site and someone will actually be there?
 
uh... don't want to be rude... but... the thread topic is Phosban reactors. When you have people like bomber posting in a thread, it's normally a good place to get info on the thread topic... Every time I get an email about this to read something off topic, well... you know. Please continue the conversation in the apropriate thread/forum/PM. Sorry.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=5073588#post5073588 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by attml
If you do a search on phosban / rowaphos there is a lot of good information. IME the key to running these types of media is that you run it very slowly and you let as little as possible get into your tank. At a water change I run (in a bucket) the new Rowaphos/Phosban through 2 gallons of the water that just came out of the tank which rinses away some of the dust. I discard the first half gallon of really dark nasty Rowa water that comes out of the phosban reactor, then I let it loop in the rest of the 2 gallons of change water for an hour. I then change buckets to a different 2 gallons of old change water and let it run on that for 2 hours (by this time the dust has left the reactor). After that I add the Phosban reactor to my sump and stick the output hose inside of my micron filter to catch any additional dust. I then set the reactor flow so that it is literally at a little more than a trickle. A lot of people had RTN problems using RowaPhos and Phosban because the media is so aggressive it removes the phosphate too quickly which shocks the corals. They also had problems because the media dust was free floating in their tank and being taken in by the corals and it was causing what some people were saying was some burning of the corals. The key is to use it slowly, not let the dust in your system (or as little as possible) and to change the media more frequently the recommended. People were also letting the media get exhausted and the phosphate levels would rise then they would fall again dramatically when they changed the media. It is better not to let the media exhaust and have the phosphate levels steady & low rather than having them going up and down every time you change the media. When you first add new media your PH will also drop so you may want to have some kalk ready to drip to counter the PH swing. Just use it slowly keep it fresh and keep the dust out of your system and you will get the best results.
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wouldn't running a powerhead in a bucket of water with the phosban be ok?
 
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