pico reef pest algae problem challenge

Id have to choose the direct application method since its stronger than a dilution method, trying to get most of it on one pass

Additionally, if it was my tank in that opportunity id even use straight 35% as a spot treat and go nuke psycho on the targets:)
 
So direct application it is. If I can find the 35% at a reasonable cost locally I will get some. Otherwise I'm sure the 3% will work fine at full strength.
 
I've only read a few pages of this thread but I'm thinking of trying something in my tank and wonder if anyone has used this method.

Putting the peroxide in a shoe polish liquid container (http://www.suregripfootwear.com/Ite...oe+Polish+00655&ic=A9803&eq=&Tp=#.UJAZrWc_fYo). They have a sponge at the end, you squeeze the bottle and it saturates the sponge. I was thinking of putting it up to a small area of algea, squeezing and leaving it there for a minute. The tank would be full of water with pumps turned off. Corals and rocks are glued. Any feedback on this method?. Is it even worth trying?. thanks
 
omg-
that is exactly the method i was looking for!
a way to spot treat , in tank and keep the peroxide in place for 2-3 min.
i tried the "pill bottle inverted" method, didn't work, the rock surface is too uneven, and water leaks in.

try it and post results- MAKE SURE that container is clean first!
 
Heres my 33g that I just started dosing H202. I have one clownfish and a torch, duncan, hammer x2, frogspawn, birdnest, and pocillo. I've noticed some slight die off of bryopsis/gha on one of the rocks. Corals seem unaffected by the direct dosing.

11/1 5mls h202
11/2 10mls h202
11/3 20mls h202

skvzep.jpg
 
Looks nice it should work, thanks for pics!

Are you doing that underwater spot injection? Right onto the bryopsis instead of added to water at the top? It w speed up a bit
 
No, I didnt spot inject. I dosed 30mls this morning(11/4). At the time of the dose and 8hrs later, there wasnt any noticeable negative effects with the corals.

Just now, I removed 3 rocks with the heaviest manifestation and dipped the rocks in 50:50 3% h202 for 4-5mins. Followed that with a 5g WC.

Here are pics prior to dipping the rocks(8hrs after the 30ml dose). The pic in post #866 is prior to any dosing. 3% peroxide bottle is brand new, unopen.

eth4j5.jpg


n6akqs.jpg
 
Last edited:
You know what else is amazing, that bb tank is not a waste sink I bet the po4 was not bad before the outbreak

That stuff is just a terrible hitchhiker
 
So I soaked every rock and frag plug with straight 3% peroxide before placing it in the new tank and everything looks good so far. My two barr rabbitfish is absolutely devouring the dying bryopsis that it previously wouldn't touch. I have some before pics in this thread and I will take some after shots and post them together although the rock has been moved to my new tank and rearranged.
 
I am having terrible hair algae and bryopsis problems in my 34g, even though I barely feed/skim/ and run rediculous amounts of gfo. I am thinking of trying peroxide but I have some very large sps colonies that I dont want to end up losing. Thoughts?
 
Somewhere back a few pages was recommended order of operations starting with external treatments and if not possible drained internal treatments as second best. The thread shows sps to be tolerant
 
My system is been up for 18 months. I've been battling HA for about 2 months on a 57 gallon rimless with LED lighting. SPS, zoas, CUC (nerite, FL nerites, mini nerites, trochus snails, nassarius vibex and blue legged hermits. Low nutrient levels, but like someone on this post noted, HA is a very strong hitch-hiker, and once it started growing, it grew on the back of my trochus snails, it spread to just about every rock in small patches. My CUC has been doing a reasonable job of keeping it down, and I've been tweezing a golf ball of HA a day with weekly water changes and GFO and wet skimming. Its too much work.

I took half my rock out, tweezed out as much HA as possible and dosed 3% peroxide (newly opened today) with a syringe. Let it sit for 3-5 minutes, rinsed with water from my tank from a water change, and put it back in the display. Under the Blue LED's, I can see the pink areas of CA that are dying off. The HA is already turning white. I hope to see "nothing" tomorrow. ;) I'll do the other side of the tank tomorrow. Fortunately, I designed my rock work to be removable.

I'm expecting that the phosphate is returning back to the water column when the algae dies off. I plan to continue to wet skim and run GFO. I'll post some before/after pics when I do the other side of the tank.

Thanks to all for posting their experiences. I had read about 150 pages of the "AlgaeFix Marine to control HA" post, and was almost there. I'm optimistic.
 
Pictures immediately following the treatment

Pictures immediately following the treatment

As promised, here are the rocks back in my display immediately following the application of 3% H2O2 to the algae. One of the rocks has a large colony of zoas which are closed right now, but the GSP around it are opening up. The key for me was to remove as much of the algae as possible, spot treating, let sit for 5 minutes, rinse in bucket of water from system water change, and then replace in the display.

h202003.jpg

h202002.jpg

h202001.jpg


The other side of the display I did yesterday had similar algae, but is pretty clear now. Much of the algae on the rock treated yesterday is white. Sorry, iphone pics not the best.

Note the trochus snail covered with HA in the middle of the rock. I need to grab all the snails and scrape the algae off their shells. Another day.
h202007.jpg

h202006.jpg

h202005.jpg

h202004.jpg


I noticed the CUC are cleaning up most of what remains. Note the belly on the sailfin (was ignoring the algae, but is now grazing)

Pretty simple process, but I would like to not have to do this again for 6 months or longer :-)

Thanks again for the approach, feedback and testimonials.

Only downside I see is the peroxide seems to kill the CA (shows bright pink under blue LED's). Anyone know if the CA completely dies off or if its just "burnt" and comes back quickly?
 
Last edited:
Coralline does die and then come back, its in the lost of known sensitives

You took great pics, can't wait to see your tracking i do hope you follow up in six months
 
Here's a coralline spot with the electric orange color, lower right

It will bleach in that spot and come back, which is why i prefer spot treatments over dips, keeps it localized

I was using diluted 35% to wipe the inner glass using a micro magnetic scraper, some liquid dripped down across the coralline
 

Attachments

  • 20121115_195147.jpg
    20121115_195147.jpg
    41 KB · Views: 5
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

R
Red tufty algae - Asparagopsis - any expert advice for removal?
Replies
14
Views
2K
rallibon
R
D
Algae issue - and I feel like I've tried everything
2
Replies
21
Views
3K
JCOLE
JCOLE
S
detritus outbreak after a year? Coral dying.
Replies
8
Views
1K
Paul B
Paul B
Noah_Reefing
A simple 10 gallon nano reef tank
2
Replies
25
Views
2K
JohnL
JohnL
Sk8r
ALGAE& CYANO (red slime): how to and how not to have it
Replies
3
Views
20K
Omri
O
Back
Top