pico reef pest algae problem challenge

Brandon recommended that I come here and join in the fun so here goes:

29 gallon biocube. Running no skimmer but doing 10% water changes once a week. 30# of dry marco rocks which I've been told after the fact tends to leech phosphates for a while. This tank finished its cycle 10/15/2012, so I've had it just over a year. GHA has always been somewhat present in here, but reared its ugly head within the last couple of weeks. I'm just about to do a water change now, but want to know how best to treat the entire tank.

There's 1 clown, a pistol shrimp/ywg pair, a few brittle stars (I never even knew I had them, one hitch-hiked and somehow I have about 5 now). There's a zoa, a couple of mushrooms and daisy polyps. Obviously I don't wanna kill anything off, but as you can see.... it's covered. Help!?!?!! Oh.. and nevermind my coralline issue on the glass. I'm getting to that next. :c)

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Yours doesn't look that bad, personally, I would just dose it daily and it should clear up in a couple of weeks. Dosing mine, I would do three little pours each day. If you have some really bad patches, take the rock out and spot treat.
 
pico reef pest algae problem challenge

Ok thanks. How much for a 29 gallon. How often... How long?

I was more than likely going way overboard with my dosing, started around 3-5ml and as the weeks went on was probably putting between 10 and 15ml daily in my 34. I saw no adverse effects. Your call, maybe start lower, and build up a bit when you see how your livestock reacts.
 
Does this method work on macro algae also? I have some caulerpa vining along my rocks and its been really difficult to remove, it just crumbles as I try to remove it.

I have some Hair/Bry around my tank and have been dosing Mg. I'll be trying this H202 method soon. Thanks for the tip.
 
Does this method work on macro algae also? I have some caulerpa vining along my rocks and its been really difficult to remove, it just crumbles as I try to remove it.

I have some Hair/Bry around my tank and have been dosing Mg. I'll be trying this H202 method soon. Thanks for the tip.

I also have a calurpa problem. I think I might try this!
 
I have been fighting byropsis in my frag tank for months and am ready to zap it with some peroxide. i can easily take out all the frags and rocks and dip them but it is also in the sand bed and on the egg crate. the frag tank is on the same sump as my 300 gallon display and 75 gallon refugium. i do not have any algae in my display. so i guess my question is do I turn the return pump off to my frag tank and dose the whole tank and then do a water change and then turn the return pump back on as i don't think there would be enough peroxide left to cause a problem. 75 gallon frag tank with mainly sps and zoas.
how much peroxide would i put in a 75 gallon tank? what coral can the peroxide harm?
live stock in frag tank
mystery wrasse
black mimic tang
mandarin goby
lawnmower blenny
snails
 
Tagging along. Brandon-I will send you my tank info. I'd like to dose my whole tank 90gal because it would be VERY hard to redo my aquascape.
 
FTS
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Right side
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Middle
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Left side
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Shot from right side of tank-Lengthwise..See everything around the Chalice
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90 Gallon with 7-10gal sump
I run carbon in 1 bag, and PhoGaurd in another...does not help.
1-Pepermint Shrimp
1-Sea Hair
1-Blonde Naso Tang (Small)
3-lyretail Anthia's
1-Hector Goby
1-Clown
1-Clam
1-Mandarin
Mainly SPS and LPS, few softies

I would prefer to dose the whole tank. Do i use 35% or 3% and for how long? Any help is appreciated.
2x150MH 14k, 2 96w PC's for lights
good skimmer. (Don't remember name or model)
Any other questions, just ask.
 
In tank treatment 90 gallon mixed SPS reef

In tank treatment 90 gallon mixed SPS reef

Guess what


Thats great pics I think we can work in tank with that even though you know Im a stickler for removal :)

just to placate try and remove at least one unconnected rock w corals

put peroxide on the bad parts only

let sit out of water 2 mins

rinse well and put back in to chart this die off as a test rock.

Your shrimp is the only sensitive in the tank, or any hosting anems if I missed them. your corals are not for the dilutions we will be using

the fish aren't either, I know of no marine fish kept in captivity that is. there probably is some, but in all peroxide threads Ive seen on the web I can't name one and thats a lot of commonly kept species.

so, the requested in tank diagnosis :)

underwater concentration technique from pages back.

instead of dosing the topwater, we need to start hitting each underwater patch over the course of weeks. no rush, we can fix this in about a month. you can tell from above pics that after shots are hard to come by and thats my charge lol, after we chat a few weeks of work is on ya and in the end, good or bad, pls update with excellent full tank shots like above. I give you a 95% chance of success. 5% chance of bleaching a few corals possibly if they are very sensitive, but I think not.

watch your alk dosing during in tank runs, dont spike it or drive it nice and high to keep up fast growth, just keep it safe but not spiked. do lots of nice refreshing water changes for export as needed, you can't do too many.

watch your light cycle, thats photo abuse during in tank runs lol. Typically we dont even jack with anything, just pick a safe dose and go, but if you want safety in the back pocket you watch for bleaching and reduce lighting and dosing if that occurs, then it will stop.

your tank will not recycle or lose benthic life from this, solid prediction Id like follow up on if you can to help us on our way.

I would use 3% for starters, worst case is we take this slow and not much of anything happens. Im in it to preserve non targets first, then possibly kill targets if we concoct a great approach.

start brainstorming with me on underwater concentration techniques:

get some diabetic syringes and needles

this can be as simple as turning off all your pumps for 5 mins, still the waters as much as possible, and slowly inject a known safe dose right into big patch #1

another option is brown pill bottle with hole in the bottom for needle access, you mount all this to your syringe setup and press it approximately on top of a patch and press/inject slowly, the bottle concentrates it just for a bit on the algae and then it all dissipates.

for starters, calculate to use 1 ml or 1 cc per ten gallons of total water volume, all your creatures except the shrimp can take that and even he just might. only inject one patch as your first test run, lets wait a few days and see how nontargets and targets react, wait about 4 days and then post back pics of that first underwater injection. make sure to turn off pumps, and externally treat any test rock you can muster the effort to take out.

thanks for posting I give you a great chance with this.
B
 
Im doing you a disservice if I dont say this

:)


per the first standing back pic, your entire left 1/3rd of the reef could so easily be lifted out. that will leave a nice detritus cloud underneath for you to vaccuum out, and all of those corals could sit on my kitchen table for 20 mins and not care one bit. just had to say it lol

literally anything you can externally treat, and clean under, is speeding up your recovery in weeks not just days.


also dont forget about saran wrap tarping its awesome take pics if you do it. find some creative way to envelop a test area in saran wrap underwater, doesnt have to be perfect even if the corners are hanging off etc just try to use it as a parachute for you to inject under so its holds your known safe dose in place. to be conservative, use a little less than the known safe dose for your very first rounds

we will watch how the polyps react and after 24 hours from the dose I think they will not care. clams passed this test in earlier posts.

one reason I hope you will do at least one external test rock is because at the end of the week you 'll love the outcome well enough that you will just do it all this way unless you are a very, very patient man and can wait a few weeks for in-tank dosing (carefully and not rushed) to work. most of the treatments on this whole thread are me begging for external runs, and we wind up doing internal ones anyway lol its rather well tested and photographed here. i see no huge risk for your tank in doing so, it just makes me wait longer for after pics :)

before we go to town on any method, ive learned to do the test portion either external or underwater and wait quite a while to see how it dies and possibly regenerates before continuing. these eutrophicated tanks take a while to get this way, no rush to cure so we can be safe.
 
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ok, i will try to remove 2-3 rocks, apply the HP 3%, rinse, and put back into my tank.
Question-should i soak the rock in 1:1, in a bucket OR pour the HP directly on the spot?
 
I like to avoid non target contact so I recommend you just pour right out of the bottle or usea dropper

the important part is don't remove any, we need to see death and regrowth from an ideal treatment to have a good eye for what a less than ideal treatment will do. There are doses in here 4x what I'm quoting with corals just like yours, so in the event of not much action there is room to ramp up.


All the phosphates locked in your total algal mass doesn't compare to one weeks feeding, it's not a huge amount. Make this a better than normal month of water changes as that coincidentally does so much good in our case. Go ahead and inject one underwater test patch too, so we have comparison action between that and the external run. inject very slowly, burn that stuff slowly and the rest of the peroxide goes out into the tank and dissipates in about 48 hours, the chemists say.

If 3% doesn't do much on the external test we know to not waste time with it. I can't accurately id your target, I work more off eyeballing lol

my eyes tell me it will die die lol
 
I have externally treated almost all of my live rock now. the caulerpa is just simply disappearing! I love it. I'll try to post some pics of the last few rocks I have left to treat for a before and after comparison.
I was skeptical, but this really works!!!!
 
library


I hope these pics show up.
I treated some of these tonight. The really clean rocks with the acans and under the brain coral were treated last week. The large rock is how they started and has not been treated (I ran out of H2O2).
 
Steve thank you!! The dieoff looks rough but its ok to pull out the dying strands and it should go ahead and release from the rock totally and be clean in a week. Macros are easier to beat than bryopsis with this method, their holdfasts don't run deep and any regrowth is simply a missed strand or two. Bryopsis can grow back from a total cure as its holdfasts are often deep seated into the rock but the point there is a biomass clearing, then other non peroxide options have less to work with as a final blow.
 
I have been Fighting this problem for three years by spending countless hours with a tweezers and to be honest, I had given in to the fact that I would always have a tank choked out with algae. This method of using H2O2 has really been a lifesaver! I will post more photos when treatment is complete.
THANKS BRANDON!
 
Ok, here is my progress. I first started it on ONE rock that had Acans stuck on them. I was nervous not to splash the H202 on the acan's, i should have pulled all long hairs off, but i did not, and it still has worked very well. Ill let the pictures prove what im saying....
Before i removed rock to dose...
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Here is just after i dosed and rinsed. Acans are upset...but no damage
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And here is "now", 19hrs later..Acans are acting normal. MH are off, only running 96w PC's, but you can still see how much has died off (I didnt pull any algae off with my hands) Also my Blonde Naso Tang now goes after the algae and eats it, normally he didnt.
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Im working on the whole tank now. Might take me a few days, but i will post more when im finished. Thanks Brandon!
 
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