pico reef pest algae problem challenge

[brandon429]

To remove the algae you can let it just die off, it will not cause new algae that is a misnomer. Interestingly any standard clean up crew members usually start to work right about now, they love the cooked cells

a toothbrush inserted/worked in the tank will really have some effect too after death is complete.
Get us pics if possible glad you have a white algae prob now!!

I don't blame anyone for being a skeptic. Mr mcguffin is just playing his part in cynicism

Its hard to explain/guess/anecdote why it works so well. Results with no community wide accepted reasoning is hard to fathom, for some. I say we just keep on adding pics and let the experts grapple further on if it works or not

 

[Tater11]

Ok I'm on board i posted my tank pics in the chemistry forum.since I don't have any corals mounted on the rocks yet.I'm going to take all the rock out and use the spray bottle method because I have some huge rocks.then rinse how much should I spray? It will also give me a chance to get as much off the sand bed ad possible.I will take before and after pics

 

[brandon429]

Try to spray just the amount needed for coverage thank you for joining! Since you don't have it packed w corals its nearly impossible to mess up. I'll link the thread for before pics:

you don't have any cleaner shrimp right?

 

[brandon429]

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2131639

I am all for nutrient control as mentioned in your chem thread. Where I think some opportunity lies is what do we do when nutrients were already good before I had the outbreak, and how do I clean my rocks?

Peroxide. Then back to the prevention mode
And, in many cases documented here no further water stripping was needed, just target removal

 

[Tater11]

Try to spray just the amount needed for coverage thank you for joining! Since you don't have it packed w corals its nearly impossible to mess up. I'll link the thread for before pics:

you don't have any cleaner shrimp right?

Yes u have 2 blood shrimp

 

[Tater11]

Oops ment I have 2 blood shrimp

 

[brandon429]

That's good to know. If you can just take out the rocks, treat them externally and rinse the shrimp w be fine

If you have to treat inside the tank we should get a specific plan first thanks again for contributing to our thread

 

[Tickyty]

Full tank 48 hrs after treatment

Full tank 48 hrs after treatment

Here is a pic of the full tank after day 2. Here are the first 5. Will post the remaining ones next.

 

[Tickyty]

Second half of Day 2 Pics

Second half of Day 2 Pics

Only could get 1 to upload but here it is.

 

[brandon429]

Its just great thanks!

 

[brandon429]

Now watch out for the strange part we can't figure out yet-

Even if you change nothing about the water params, the algae does not grow back fast. if it grows back at all it's slower than the first time?!

 

[Tater11]

Ok thanks brandon

 

[brandon429]

Notice on all these linked threads that while some keepers need a follow up treatment to hit the first round depending on level and type of infestation, they never report the same problems on their tank again like it was when we started.

I use peroxide every 3 months as needed...h202 didn't stop my algae growth it just turned out to be the single best way to manage it on an ongoing basis. I keep decent water params, but the tank looks like I am ocd about them when in fact i'm not

the effectiveness of peroxide has left me doubting most of the algae knowledge we've promulgated the last decade or so

That's why you got the standard issue phosphate, Gfo, nutrient statements. Its all we've known

 

[thebanker]

The PO4 / NO3 lecture doesn't always work either. You go to any natural reef, you'll see tons of GHA in some places, and minimal GHA in others, depending on predation from grazers. So, if it grows well in nature, in pristine water, then part of it's control in our systems must be from predation or manual treatment.

 

[brandon429]

Concur fully. I am not loyal to peroxide I just go w results

when something better comes along that doesn't bleach coralline i'm on board

What I think plays a factor is we have been looking at the prevention method (gfo, water with undetected nutrients, water changes, UV depending on target, clean up crews, grazers) as the removal method when algae is still rampant after all the effort.

There is a do nothing switch programmed in us. We endanger our tanks by letting X exist even after best efforts. That's when I see a lot of 'id this' activity and not too much 'get it out' activity

Never settle for something in a tank we don't want, use any universal removal method but have the final say

what we should do to prevent algae isn't the same as what we should do to remove it.

 

[KafudaFish]

This will be sort of round about but I figure it sort of fits with the discussion.

This is something I have thought about often especially with our smaller tanks and the one area that seems to fall by the side is mechanical filtration. We seem to really focus on biological such as good rock, and chemical, everything we stick in our filters to hold water quality within the good range, but the last one, mechanical always seems to be "œless important". To me it is the preventative method of filtration unlike the other two which address current issues.

Some tanks don't really run it even. I guess if you have a larger system it is easier to let this one slide but to me our smaller tanks rely on mechanical filtration in order to thrive.

By mechanical filtration I mean use of a sponge etc to trap waste and we remove it or WC that remove the build up as well.

Even though grazers as Mikey was discussing are biological agents that remove the algae it could still be considered mechanical as well. They are physically dealing with the algae.

With the peroxide, I wonder if we are disturbing the algae enough so that it does stay in check or at least the growth slows down. Perhaps it spends more energy in a defensive mode rather than a growth phase like it previously did.

So my point? I guess I really don't have much of one just wanted to hear what others think on the subject.

 

[KafudaFish]

This will be sort of round about but I figure it sort of fits with the discussion.

This is something I have thought about often especially with our smaller tanks and the one area that seems to fall by the side is mechanical filtration. We seem to really focus on biological such as good rock, and chemical, everything we stick in our filters to hold water quality within the good range, but the last one, mechanical always seems to be “less important”. To me it is the preventative method of filtration unlike the other two which address current issues.

Some tanks don’t really run it even. I guess if you have a larger system it is easier to let this one slide but to me our smaller tanks rely on mechanical filtration in order to thrive.

By mechanical filtration I mean use of a sponge etc to trap waste and we remove it or WC that remove the build up as well.

Even though grazers as Mikey was discussing are biological agents that remove the algae it could still be considered mechanical as well. They are physically dealing with the algae.

With the peroxide, I wonder if we are disturbing the algae enough so that it does stay in check or at least the growth slows down. Perhaps it spends more energy in a defensive mode rather than a growth phase like it previously did.

So my point? I guess I really don’t have much of one just wanted to hear what others think on the subject.

 

[brandon429]

A good point. By not using mechanical filtration all detritus is contained within my tank I agree its contributing to bioload but I can't figure out how to get a hob on a curved vase!

 

[KafudaFish]

I have made a mechanical filter for my sump in the past and it did a really good job at removing the build up that would work on your vase. I did this so I wouldn't have to drain the entire sump whenever I needed to clean it.

1. Cheap
2. Removable so not an eye sore when not needed
3. Pretty much set it and leave it then come back every commerical break to stir things up again.

Need:
container I used a half gallon rubbermaid with a screw on lid, a plastic bread box would work too $4
batting the stuff pillows are made with and not the flame retardant $4
power head
tubing

The PH goes into the tank and the the container sits outside like a canister filter.
Cut a hole for the intake and a hole for the outtake. Top and bottom or top and side.
Fill the container with pillow batting.

Start the PH and make sure the container drains back into the vase and will not fall over.
After the batting is wet use your turkey baster to stir everything up.
Walk away.
Return.
Repeat ......

When finished disconnect everything, rinse it, throw the batting away, top off any lost salt water.

You would be suprised how much gets caught in the "expensive" filter.

 

[Meshmez]

We haven't found a dosage that kills nitrifying bacteria yet, so i'm not too worried about that its just whole tank treating for red brush algae takes so long compared to a spot treatment that takes five days


try to take out the rocks and treat individually while outside the tank for a direct application right on the target

Place peroxide on the algae wait 5 minutes then rinse

per the pics above it will take 5 days for it to die off
thanks for posting!

The problem with "spot" treatment in my case is there are lots of little patches all over, some of the rocks are fairly large, but h2o2 is pretty cheap... i guess i could make a large bucket to dip the rocks... or pour the peroxide over the rocks in a bucket and slosh them around in the bucket.. any dilution that you would recommend for making a dip for getting the red brush?